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Five Ten Anasazi Low Volume Climbing Shoe - Women's - 2008
Making fit the priority, Five Ten gave the Women's Anasazi Low Volume Climbing Shoe an improved heel cup and snug forefoot to create a glass-slipper feel (except with better friction). A synthetic lining keeps the Anasazi Low Volume Climbing Shoe from stretching, so it fits the same at the end of the summer as it did the day you took it out of the box. Five Ten's Stealth C4 rubber provides incredible friction on all types of rock and helps this high-performance shoe edge like every foothold is the rung of a ladder.
Bottom Line: The Five Ten Anasazi Low Volume Climbing Shoe provides the top-notch friction you need and second-skin fit you crave.
I've been wearing Anasazi Velcros for the last fourteen years. I didn't think they could be improved until the LV women's version came out. The LVs are even more comfortable and climb even better, thanks to the improved heel cup. I use these for sport climbing, granite climbing, and even super-thin sandstone cracks. They are my all time favorite shoe.
I purchased the Anasazi LV recently after owning a pair of the blue women's Anasazi's. I climbed in my old ones for about a year and really came to love them. However, I like these much better. The heel on this model is still nice and deep, but it doesn't dig into my Achilles tendon like the blue ones did. I also really like the lower volume, I notice it in the arch (which feels supportive) and in the toe box. I ended up buying a 1/2 size smaller than my blue Anasazi's and they fit perfectly, just like the glass slipper fit the description mentions. They're not so tight that they're killing me during a climb, but they're snug enough that they're perfect for bouldering and sport climbing. The heel hooking and edging capability is excellent on these shoes, they feel supportive yet sensitive as well. If you feel the regular women's Anasazi's are a little big, especially in the toe box area, I recommend giving these a try. After about a month of climbing 3 days a week in these, the fit is still the same as the first day I used them, they have not stretched out. I would not recommend these shoes for beginners, I think the Five Ten Siren might be a better choice. Also, the Anasazi LV comes w/ C4 rubber and not the Onyxx listed in the description. I am not sure why Five Ten puts Onyxx rubber on the men's and not the women's Anasazi's, but that is one change I would like to see in future models. Overall this is an excellent shoe and I don't think you'll be disappointed if you are looking for a lower volume women's sport/bouldering shoe.
These shoes seem awesome, unfortunately I think my pair is a good half-size too small, so I'm returning them. So sad- I was really looking forward to trying these out. Seem to offer a lot of comfort and durability.
I like a snug shoe. My street/hiking shoe is a Women's 8 generally, and I ordered a 7. I have a slightly wider foot for a girl with a moderate arch, and my toes are a little more scrunchy and curled as opposed to long and nimble- this seems like it might have been a good shoe for my foot type. :-/
I decided to give these a try after only mild enjoyment of the 'old' blue Anasazi because of the Low Volume aspect. MUCH BETTER, here is why:
First, I only got a half-size smaller than my street shoe which fits perfect. Second, The LV does not dig into my heel and cause ridiculous pain instead the heel stays put and is great for heel hooking on small surfaces. Third,I wore these for a week long trip of bouldering in CO right out of the box and they function perfectly without pain and awkwardness. Fourth, I recently wore them on a super-weekend sport climbing trip at Maple Canyon, UT (15 routes...8 in one day) with only the normal mild pain of having small shoes on for a full day.
All this has occurred within in the time frame of one month; purchase, boulder trip, sport climbing weekend, and normal training sessions outside. I even sent a long-standing project with them, Hoo-rah!
Good shoes. They're comfortable and stick well. Because they're very flexible, I probably wouldn't use them in cracks.
I prefer them over my Evolvs and Mythos on slabs or in the gym. Because I climb on my first MP joint quite a bit, it tends to get painful with so little support there. They do not inflame my achilles tendonitis the way the Evolvs do.
I really like these shoes, and I wouldn't go any smaller than your street shoe size. Mine are my street shoe size and my toes are still crunched up.
If you are a smaller climber and have felt that other variations of the 5.10 velcro models have been too stiff, then this is the shoe for you! Edgy without being unfeeling, securely fitting heel, and the light color is a bonus for those hot summer days.
DO NOT BE FOOLED BY THE DESCRIPTION OF THIS AS A WOMEN'S SHOE!!! Though sized on the women's chart, if you are a low volume dude, you'll dig this shoe! I size "true" to my men's velcro-use the EU sizeit's the easiest way to convert.
Though I've worn them on cracks, edges and sloper festsmy favorite application for this shoe so far is steeper, smeary climbingbut for me this shoe fits into the "softer" category as I am a bigger climber!
The LV, The Anasazi Velcro, The Galileo...with these three velcro models, you've got it all covered!
These shoes are just fantastic. With them I can stand securely on the smalest and on the most polished holds. They are much better then the old blue ones, they don't as much on your toes but are still tight enough to hook with them if need be. If you have a narrow foot or low arches, this is the shoe for you!
Ditto to all the other reviews here on performance of shoe. Love them!
Just one thing to add that hasn't already been said for someone thinking of trying them about sizing and what kind of feet they fit...The front of my foot is very wide, narrow heels and high arches (which should be high volume I believe and you would think they wouldn't fit properly) and these fit perfectly - arch support is great, enough width in the toe box so they don't squish my toes together, and they don't dig into my heels like the other Anaszi's used to... I bought true to size (same size as my street shoe) and they are a perfect snug fit...
...so if you have "duck feet" like I do, I think you will love these :)
Fantastic shoe. I've used them both indoors and out, and the rubber is super sticky and lets me climb more aggressively, yet also gracefully. The shape is ideal for people with low ankle bones. Don't be scared of the sizing chart-- it is correct. I wear a 10 street shoe, but a 10.5 in this pair. It's odd, but it works. The arch support feels like it was made especially for me! I love them!
I'm climbing steep, overhanging in the Red River Gorge and these shoes DO NOT work for that. I'm climbing anywhere from 13a and below and while the fit on the shoe is great, the "power toe" completely removed my sensitivity to the rock. Other women at the Red are experiencing the same problem.
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