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As part of Chris Sharma’s signatures series, the Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe gives you uncompromising performance on steep sport climbs and boulder problems. Sharma designed the Optimus Prime with a down-cambered last and a symmetrical toe box for maximum power transmission on overhanging terrain. The deep heel cup and hook-and-loop straps keep your foot locked in, and the oval-grid rand gives you an edge on techy toe hooks.
This was the first shoe I ever bought by evolve... and they are awesome!!! The downturn is just enough, the heel is pretty close to perfect, the trax rubber has stuck to nearly everything so far, and the rubber on the top has even helped keep them from getting torn up on some toe hooks! Watch out when ordering, they run very small. All my other climbing shoes are 44 and 1/2 while these are 45 and they fit wayyyy tighter than the other pairs. I recommend a half size up from your normal climbing shoe. Despite being tight they are actually really comfortable. Nice job Sharma! maybe give up climbing and just design shoes! haha
I have a very wide foot and found the Evolv Optimus Prime fits my foot better than any other velcro climbing shoe I've tried thanks to the symmetrical toe box and stretchy breathable uppers compared to the neoprene uppers of most velcro climbing shoes (like 5.10 Anasazi Velcro or the Evolv Pontas). I've had one rand and half resole done and the downturn toe is still in tact and holds strong on steep climbs. An excellent shoe!!!
Does anyone know how the sizing of these shoes compares to other Evolv models? For instance, I currently climb with the Evolv Defy in size 9. Should the Optimus Prime in 9 fit the same?
It will fit about the same. The toe box on the Optimus Prime is pretty blocky, not like the Defy that has a pointy toe. Otherwise it should fit the same, maybe a little snug because it is downturned.
Toe hook setting up for a throw to a nasty little pocket on Hammerhead at HP 40. Face isn't in the picture but its the best shot I have of the shoe. I promise it's me.
My street shoe is a 10.5, occasionally 10. After climbing in Katanas (41.5) for the past six months (loved the fit, hated the lack of durability on the rand), I tried out 5.10 Galileos (9.5), 5.10 Anasazi Verdes (9.5), Evolv Pontas (9.5), and Evolv Optimus Prime (10). As has been noted by others, the Primes are very tight. I literally can not get my foot inside a (9.5), and the (10s) are still incredibly snug, but, i think, due to the symmetrical toe, not incredibly painful. I am only using the Primes inside, and I've kept the Anasazi Verdes for outside, since I would give that shoe the nod for edging ability (asymmetric toe and all). But the Primes stick to everything I've wanted them to inside and somehow manage to be extraordinarily snug while reasonably comfortable. So far, no signs of trouble with durability -- we'll see. So check these out - just don't kid yourself into thinking that you'll down size these much, if at all. And if the Primes aren't a good match for you, might want to check out those Verdes....
...they wear out way too fast! My pair lasted for 2 months and now both toe caps are broken and the soles are full of small cuts. The rubber sure is sticky but... Well, as they say, you can't get everything. If you're prepared to pay for the short fun, go ahead. I myself am going back to La Sportiva's Miura VSs (which is an excellent shoe forgetting that the front velcro attachment tears off after a while =) and consider trying 5.10 Dragons out....
I'm with you on the durability issue. DONT buy these shoes if you climb more than once a week. I've only had these shoes for about a month and a half and i am now edging on the tips of my bare big toes. but if you have the $$$ for a new pair every month they'd be sweet.
Great shoes,i love them! The down turned last hooks onto even the steepest climbs, and the rubber uppers are great for toe hooking. If you like steep climbs, buy these now.
For years I have been a Five Ten man. But, after trying these out on the wall at my local store I was convinced I had to have them. They are my favorite shoes for steep boulders. I have never, until now sized up in climbing shoes. These shoes perform that well and actually are comfortable.
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