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A long snow route with a couple pitches of ice is the hardest type of climbing to select an appropriate tool. You can either have a good ice tool that sucks for self arrest or a standard ice axe that can barely climb a pitch of easy ice. Not anymore. The Black Diamond Venom is an ice axe that's designed self arrest and plunge into the snow easily but offer good ice performance. The interchangeable, classically curved pick is designed to provide solid placements while ice climbing and to self arrest securely. The Venom's slight bend at the top of the shaft increases vertical performance without sacrificing the ability to plant the shaft in the snow. A perfect alpine leash, the Lockdown, is included with this versatile axe.
Bottom Line: The Black Diamond Venom is truly the best of both worlds.
If I had to pick one tool for ski mountaineering, this would be it. The straight(ish) shaft of the Venom works well for plunging (boot axe belay or quick anchor), yet it also has just enough clearance to reach around ice bugles if you happen to be climbing ice. There are probably better tools in specific catagories, like vertical water ice, alpine climbing, etc., but for all around use, the Venom covers all my bases.
Where the Venom really shines is on something like a winter ascent of the Grand Teton. You need something light as you are going to be carrying it for a long time (the Venom is sub 500 grams I think..?), then you need a tool that you can climb some moderate ice with, perhaps pound a few pitons, plunge in some steep snow and then carry securely on your pack. The Venom is perfect for all of this - nothing more, nothing less.
I gave it a four star rating as I wish it used the existing BD picks instead of the special Venom pick. While these are fine, they aren't quite as strong (a B rating instead of the burlier T rating) and they use two little screws to secure them instead of the one big honkin' mother screw of the other BD tools.
The attached photo shows the tool on a backpack - this was the tool of choice for climbing Mt. Foraker in Alaska.
I'm interesting in using this axe to climb alpine routes like N Ridge of Baker and N Face Shuksan and I'm 6'-2" tall. 1. What length shaft would you recommend for an axe with a hammer? 2. Would you recommend getting the same length Venom w/Adze or would it be just a good to use the 58cm Grivel Air Tech Racing axe I currently own for a second axe on these climbs?
I think the only tool that compares to the BD Venom for technical alpine climbs or for high altitude mountaineering, is the Petzl Aztarex- mainly because nothing compares with these two tools for their lighter weight. But during such climbs- especially those with long sections of steep snow- the Venom excels over the Aztarex for a few reasons, but one in particular: it plunges well. The Venom also climbs through technical sections and mixed terrain with great balance and feel- even on vertical and bullet-hard ice- but MOST importantly it climbs securely in steep snow due to a smooth grip/shaft transition and a sharp spike, which is key for self-belay and anchoring. Other tools with molded handles and finger supports do not plunge well, and the Aztarex has a hollow, open shaft which fills up with snow. I've tried and compared many tools from all major brands, and for weight, durability, climbing versatility, leash, and interchangeable picks, nothing currently on the market compares with Venom for alpine climbing. Make sure to buy the Tech Picks, unless you intend to climb only snow- and then you should go for an even lighter tool than the Venom.
For climbs with longer hard technical sections or difficult mixed climbing, I prefer the Petzl Quark.
I'm interesting in using this axe to climb alpine routes like N Ridge of Baker and N Face Shuksan and I'm 6'-2" tall. 1. What length shaft would you recommend for an axe with a hammer? 2. Would you recommend getting the same length Venom w/Adze or would it be just a good to use the 58cm Grivel Air Tech Racing axe I currently own for a second axe on these climbs?
I used the Venom tool for my Baffin Island BASE jumping expedition.
Our trip required us to make alpine climbing/hiking approaches to get access to some massive cliffs so we could jump from them.
Because we would be parachuting, we needed gear we could jump down with us.
The Venom tool was very lightweight, the straight shaft was perfect for plunging into the snow to "self-belay" and the pick was easily removable so that I could slide the tool down my gaiter to jump.
Crampons stayed on my feet, venom tool inside my gaiter alongside my leg, pick in the pocket, parachute on my back- ready to jump!
I will be recommending this tool for members of my 2009 expedition.
What size? For general mountaineering I use a 65 cm Raven but don't know what length to get for the Venom. The 50 would be useless for any of the lower angle snow fields that are common in New England, so it's 57 or 64. Which one? (I'm 5'10")
If you are just walking up snowfields with it, then the raven is more than enough axe. You would want to use this one for slightly more technical adventures, and having it a little bit shorter would be more beneficial. You already have a 65, so get yourself a quiver going and go with the 57.
This is a great set of tools! They're plenty light but beefy enough to get the job done. They're weighted well so they feel really comfortable and they grip well so you don't have to worry about losing them! They are really maintaining their sharp points which is a plus for me! I've very happy with them.....I got both the hammer and the adze.
Nice lightweight hammer tool for alpine ice, steep snow, or any place you want a 2nd tool, but don't need to drag a heavier tool around. Nicely priced as well.
Trying to decide between this tool and the petzl aztarex. I would be using it for mainly mountaineering, glacier approaches, and some alpine climbing. Anyone have time on both tools?
Durable, lightweight, compact the hammer is nice!! Light enough for transport, but heavy enough to get leverage with. All in all a great tool. Bonus it is a great price compared to others similar tools!
With the semi aggressive pick and short shaft with grip I take this on many outings. The pick is durable and takes hold of ice very well. I was trying to decide on a general mountaineering axe or a ice tool and the venom fits what I need perfectly. A great alpine tool!
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