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Big wall climbers, stop looking at those anodized new-fangled 'biners and pick up the time-tested Black Diamond Oval Carabiner. The Oval Carabiner's rounded design eliminates 'biner shift on aid placements and is ideal for racking gear on both trad routes and aid climbs. The Black Diamond Oval has remained unchanged for years. After all, why would you mess with something so simple and functional?
Bottom Line: The Black Diamond Oval Carabiner is the big wall standard.
It's a great stand by 'biner that is good for just about anything, I have been able to find a million and a half uses for these, but they are the best when loaded with gear. I even carry a few with my rock rings so I can adjust the length on the fly, sweet!
Does all it is advertised for a basic carabiner. I mainly use mine for rigging gear while whitewater rafting, and have not experienced any problems with water or sand gumming up the gate.
For general purpose climbing biners, better designs have been around for some time now, but there are still a few things that these ovals are good for. I don't aid climb, so I can't speak to that, but I find that these are still the best choice for racking wires. The oval shape allows them to hold many pieces comfortably, and the huge gate notch can prevent a stray wire from falling off the biner when opening it. Also, these make a handy bail biner that is a bit less painful to leave up on a tough sport route than a $12 Helium or the like.
Ultra-classic. If you need 6000 biners, quality and price are right. Better technology exists. Perfect for rigging, slack-lining, aid racks, guiding/outdoor programs, and the like.
We've all heard the battle b/w function, form, and weight savings on the good ole oval. The rub is that this biner performs for just about every purpose. It is a staple in my trad rack, essential for creating extension systems, and invaluable due to its durability. Heck, my dog's leash is 8mm cordelette and an oval. They won't fail you, but if you are keen on weight savings know you're looking at the heavier end of biners.
I love these. Simple and functional. They wont shift when you load them, this will help keep you from crapping your pants while aiding in the valley. Every rack should have at least a few of these on it.
Save, reliable, perfect for aiding! If you have a super heavy rack, may be worth it to get the Ovalwire biners to save a bit of weight. Otherwise, you can't beat these for the money!
These biners work great for top-roping, carrying gear, and all kinds of other miscellaneous needs. I always carry a spare on my harness for the odd occasion.
I'm not climbing with them, but they work great as a general utility 'biner- I use them on the river, backpacking, around the house to hang/store gear...no complaints.
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