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Black Diamond Fritschi Diamir Freeride Plus Binding
It's no wonder that the Fritschi Diamir Freeride Plus Binding has won awards from Powder, Outside, and Skiing Magazine as their choice for going out-of-bounds. Gladiators of the backcountry amphitheater depend on its legendary reputation when they go huge and land hard. Beefed up from Fritschi's original Freeride touring design, the Freeride Plus has a higher 12 DIN setting, so your planks will stay glued in pucker country where missing a turn can mean your season or worse. Wider mount points and stiffer lateral hinges give you more leverage over the fatty planks that are storming the ropes these days, and the sliding heel lock mechanism eliminates accidental switching into tour mode under flex. Generous 95mm brakes come standard, but you can grab the available Wide Brakes if you're packing magnum girth. The Freeride Plus is compatible with regular alpine as well as dedicated AT boots.
Bottom Line: The choice binding for backcountry bombers.
These are an extremely reliable, dependable strong binding. I have used these in the bumps on the resort to high speed runs in powder to small hucks to icy couloirs in the backcountry to variable conditions on an 8000 meter peak, and they withstood the tests of all- never once came out of them. As a female, 5'7, and 135lbs, these bindings are plenty strong enough to withstand any ski activity. They are light weight, easy on/off, and have an excellent riser system that is easy to adjust while on the move in the backcountry. Highly recommended for anyone skiing in varying terrain in both the front country and backcountry.
I currently have the Volkl Aura (basically a lighter Mantra) with the Marker Griffon Binding. I'm looking to convert these skiis to an AT set up; but I'll most likely be only logging 5-10 days a year of true touring; the rest would be resort skiing. (additional 10-15 days per year on these skis).
So if I'm resort skiing 75% of the time, would these hold up? Some of the comments above about popping out, or breaking these bindings are worrisome. I love these skis, and don't want to risk destroying their preformance by switching out the bindings...
Additionally, I'm assuming I'd need to punch new holes for these bindings- how much would that weaken the ski? I'm somewhat agressive, and the last thing I need is to hit a jump and end up with 1.5 skis after a landing...
stats: female, 5'9", 165lb, din 9 aggressive east coast skier.
If you are doing aggressive jumps I don't think this would be a great binding for you, the heel clip connection point is plastic and I don't think it would hold up. Plus, the ramp angle on these is 0 so that may mess with you as it did me (see my review below, also the forum at TGR has some info about the durability of these). I would either set up your skis so you can switch out the bindings when you go AT skiing or get another pair for AT.
Hello! Hey I think if you are happy with the performance of your Griffons, consider the Marker Baron. It's the touring version of your existing binding. It is a little heavier than the BD binding here, but will have the same performance that you're used to. Especially considering that you'd tour only a handful of times per year, you'd likely appreciate the in-bounds performance of the Baron. Also, drilling skis for a second set of bindings doesn't do much damage. Once you've drilled for 3-4 bindings or more, you might start to see some problems. Check out the Barons and if you get them, drop them into new holes (even though I think the binding screw hole pattern is the same). Re-using holes has led to many a shredder to pull a binding out of the ski during a big crash.
This binding is definitely worth investing in. The freeride system allows for some absorption and flex under the boot while charging lines and the easily accessible climbing bar which also locks the binding can be adjusted with your poles while in precarious situations. The weight is extremely light for it's performance capabilities although aggressive skiers should make sure the forward pressure is cranked.
I have some Line Prophet 100's with an alpine setup and really like them, however they are obviously not great for the backcountry. I was thinking of just switching out my Marker jesters for these, but based on the reviews, it sounds like that will make me hate my Lines.
Instead maybe I should get new skis too and these bindings? I was thinking some stiff BD's, but am open to suggestions. What ski would some experts reccomend with these bindings for a good AT setup?
I have Line Prophet 100s (186s) with these bindings and I have not had any problems whatsoever. I demoed them twice with alpine bindings (I think they were Lines) and then purchased them with Fritschi bindings. The only difference I noticed with the AT bindings was that they seemed to hold their edge a little better on hard snow. They work great for the backcountry as well.
Hey, I've experimented more with these bindings on my Prophets and I think I've narrowed down the problem to the flex (probably the torsional stiffness). When I free the heels on these bindings and ski "alpine style" but with the heel clips released, all of the life returns to the skis. Line has put a lot of thought into getting just the right amount of flex in the prophets and I'm pretty sure the Fritschi's are stiffening them up substantially.
I've examined the heel mechanism, and the pin that the heel lever clamps down on appears to be designed to float some what (it's held in place by a spring). I believe this is the "Power Transmission Control technology" that is supposed to retain the natural flex of the ski, it just seems that it's too tight or perhaps it needs to float vertically as well as horizontally. I'm going to take the skis back to my shop to see if this spring can be loosened somehow to bring my skis back to life. I'll report back with what I find out.
I am sure Jimmer is right about the climbing, these bindings seem great for that, I am just really surprised at how drastically they changed the downhill performance of my Prophets. If you can live with a substantial sacrifice in the ease of turn initiation of your Prophets, then go ahead and put these on. For me though, this is one of the main reasons I love the Prophets so much.
EDIT: So it turns out it was the ramp angle. After digging around the Teton Gravity Research forums I found a thread with a bunch of people complaining about the same thing. It turns out the ramp angle on the Fritshci's is 0 deg while a normal alpine binding is 4-6 deg. For me, the shifted my weight distribution toward the tail of my skis without me realizing it (causing a drastic reduction in ease of turn initiation). To test this, I folded up some socks and stuffed them under my insoles and the skis came back to life. I am having the cosmetic toe piece removed to gain some ramp but I doubt this will be enough, I will probably have to have some sort of lifter added under the heal as well.
I don't know anything about "kite skiing" but I kind of wonder about regand124whatever's appreciation of these bindings. When you want to walk up a hill, these work really well. I ski the BD Kilowatts with these and find them perfect combo for those searching for a quiver of one. We live in the Pacific NW, and it's a pretty good setup for the variety of conditions we see here.
Disclaimer: These are my first and only pair of AT bindings so I am compairing them to the mediocre quality alpine bindings I had on before.
When I first got my Prophet 100s earlier this season I was overjoyed. They were everything I hoped for and more. The were fast, responsive, all mountain machines, and the float, good god the float! My only complaint was that it was sometimes a long hike back to the car after a snowkiting session and I wanted to make that hike more comfortable and maybe explore the backcountry a little too. That's where the Fritschi Diamir Freeride Plus bindings come in.
I just got my lovely prophets back from the shop today where they switched out my Look PX 12's for the Fritschis. After eagerly driving up to my local ski resort I slapped them on and was off.
They sucked the ever loving life out of my prophets. They were utterly unresponsive and I was reminded of the 210cm monsters I used to ski 10 years ago. I hoped I'd never have that feeling again but there I was.
I had been so stoked to find these bindings and hear that they were engineered with alpine performance in mind. I knew that these were AT binding and expected a small drop in performance, but not this. The claim that these can hold there own with even the most mediocre alpine binding is, at best a cruel joke and at worst, an outright deception. I was so depressed that I had to stop skiing after an hour and a half and go home.
I have three theories as to why these perform so dismally, perhaps someone with more knowledge of ski performance can shed some light on which one may be the culprit:
1) They place the boots so much higher above the ski than conventional bindings. 2) They are heavier than a typical downhill binding. 3) Their weight distribution is such that it puts substantial weight a good distance behind the heel (my boots measure at 305mm so they were slightly too large for the small range and right in the middle of the medium range). 4) ?????
I have an open mind and will give these bindings several more shots. Perhaps I will become used to the feeling or gradually forget that my Prophets have become an empty husk of what they once were. Time will tell. Below is a summary of my feelings:
Pros: - Very nice AT feature with climbing adjustments. - The ability to quickly switch to climbing/hiking mode with the flip of a switch. - The functional parts of the binding seem quite stout and durable (the faceplate covers seem very flimsy but, as far as I can tell, these are purely aesthetic).
Cons: - *weeps silently*
EDIT: So it turns out it was the ramp angle. After digging around the Teton Gravity Research forums I found a thread with a bunch of people complaining about the same thing. It turns out the ramp angle on the Fritshci's is 0 deg while a normal alpine binding is 4-6 deg. For me, the shifted my weight distribution toward the tail of my skis without me realizing it (causing a drastic reduction in ease of turn initiation). To test this, I folded up some socks and stuffed them under my insoles and the skis came back to life. I am having the cosmetic toe piece removed to gain some ramp but I doubt this will be enough, I will probably have to have some sort of lifter added under the heal as well. I am adding one more star to these because performance is now satisfactory. Fritschi really should make a lifter plate for the heal as an option, especially since these are marketed more towards Alpine skiers going to back country rather than nordic skiers. If fritschi had a solution I would give these 4 stars.
Hi, I'm planning to pick up new skis choosing between BD justice or Line Prophet 100, I would like to switch my old freerides, actually on Salomon Foil, to these. I heard of torsion problems of freerides on fat skis, is it right ? May be Marker Dukes are the better choise?
The Freerides have worked great for me in & out of area - nowadays I ride backcountry much more though (more pow - less $!). I rode the older Freerides for years before picking up some Sugar Daddies and upgrading the binding too. The old bindings held up really well, despite the "Fritschi Wiggle" which I didn't notice until reading reviews. The new +s are noticeably beefier, lock my boot in nice & tight, and haven't pre-released at all (I have ~10 days on them). I really like their ease of use and all 4 positions of the heel riser (Key for lots of ups & downs). Ride Free!
Hey I just have a question about the durability of these bindings. Im 6'4" 225 lbs and I would be mounting these bindings on some BD Zealots. Im wondering if these bindings would stand up to my big frame pushing around some pretty fat skis? Or should I consider some other bindings?
I am 6'3" 230, I have them mounted on Volkl Mantra's they have roughly 200 days on them and have never had a problem. this is my 3rd pair and I think they are not only the best AT binding out there but the only one.
These bindings are great. Use them in/out, all kinds of conditions. Mounted on BD Kilowatts. Nice match. There was one thing I noticed, early on. Snow can get jammed in between your heel and the binding when touring, requiring some ice chipping when you rip your skins. A friend recommended a light amount of spray on cooking oil to prevent the "stick" of the snow. Works o.k.
What more can be said about these bindings. They work well switching from in-bounds, to slackcountry, to sidecountry to backcountry.
The Freerides are tortionally stiff (drive my Gotamas nicely and will be throwing them on Megawatts). Easy to switch to touring mode from ski-mode. Biggest sell for me v. the Dukes is the climbing mode. They had 3 levels (walking and 2 climbing modes) which raise your foot much higher than Dukes appear to. This makes climbs w/ skins MUCH more comfortable.
If you are hucking 60 ft cliffs or have another reason for a 16 DIN, get the Dukes. Otherwise, I would recommend the Freerides.
These feel great on everything. Ive skied steep, flat and everything in between with these. I mounted the reg brake width on my BD Kilowatts (95 underfoot) and the brake did not even need bending. They feel very solid and the extra height is not noticeable, unless it may actually help with putting more power to the ground. My friend has the Marker Barons and he was very jealous of the ability to change to free heel without taking the skis off and my ease of adjusting the climbing bar with my poles instead of stopping and bending over like he has to. The look durable but time will be the test of this one.
I have a question about the optimal toe height adjustment on these bindings. I had these adjusted at a shop last season, toe height, forward pressure and DIN. They worked great, most of the season, then I started stepping out sporadically. Not fun. I figured something loosened up, or maybe my soles got worn a little. Now this season, I have some new BD Factors. The toe height seems sloppy. I am wondering if anyone has DIY guidelines for how to tighten the toe piece. Should there be any space underneath the sole block and the anti friction pads on the binding? Enough space to slide a piece of paper? A credit card? None whatsoever?
There should be enough space to barely slide a thick card (like a business card) but more space than a piece of standard printer paper. The thick card should come out, but it will be tight. Try talking to your local ski tech, he would probably be willing to look at it and show you for free.
I am a telemark skier who is filling out my gear quiver with AT gear. After receiving tons of silly and not so silly advice and a lot of "don't knows" this is what I discovered: These are great bindings, if you are marginal on the size range and could fit into 2 sizes, choose the smaller size.
Hey I just got a pair of Armada JJ's. I am looking to mount an alpine touring binding on them. I'm trying to decide between this binding and the Marker Baron 12. The main problem is that no brakes seem to be able to accommodate the ski's 115mm width underfoot. Any help or suggestions? thanks
Marker makes a replacement brake that fits up to 132. I have a pair of 125 underfoot skiis and the barons brakes only needed a little bending to accommodate the girth.
I started out a Midwestern bump skier that got into AT when I moved to the west. These are the only AT bidding that I that allow me to go from the Back Country to under the lift without an afterthought. You also never boot out on a good aggressive corduroy turn due to the lift they provide. I will never go back to have two separate setups again. Even though they are expensive they saved me money by only having to buy one set of gear for all terrain! BUMPS and BC FOREVER!!!
2 seasons of full time patrolling and hard skiing on 1 pair. These bindings have performed flawlessly since day one. The release is smooth and predictable but they hold solid when you need them to. Unlike the duke, you can go from ski to tour mode without having to remove your skis which saves time and is safer in certain rescue situations on hairy terrain. I will never patrol on another binding. Only complaint is the price.
I am 6'1" 190lbs. I am not the biggest of guys but consider myself a fairly powerfull skier. Anyone else have problems with pre-releasing (laterly) from these bindings? I had it happen to me three times on the hill today. I cranked the front din to 11, my normal is 9.5. Still had problems. Any ideas?
I read the reviews and I talked to some locals who had these up at my local hill, Alpental. They swore by them and said how they take air, carve on the groomers and climb with super ease. I believed them and you should believe me. These lived up to the hype and then some. I am amazed and find it hard to believe that I ever used regular bindings before. I put them on my 184 Volkl Mantra's and they are unflippinbelievable!
Don, at the end of the metal climbing bar, that the heel piece is attached to there is a screw. Click your boot into the binding. Then adjust the screw so that is flush. If it is further in the climbing bar, the forward pressure will be off. If it sticks out past the climbing bar, the forward pressure will also be off. Make sure it sits flush with the plastic. You can check both visually and press your fingertip against it to feel that it is flush. It is very simple to adjust/set. Make sure your boot is clicked in, and the bindings is adjusted to the right size. If the boot isn't clicked in, you cannot properly adjust it.
I put them on some Dynastar Legend Pros with Garmont Adrenalines and have never been happier. The good old Fritschi wobble is gone. They release well (I can attest to this up to DIN10) and tour well. Never released the touring mode unintentionally and relatively easy to get in and out of. Bit on the heavy side. Front DIN should be half a number higher as they seem a bit soft there like all prevous Fritschis.
i'd like to mount these on a pair of BD joules. the problem is the joules have already been drilled for alpine bindings. do you suppose there will be a problem mounting these properly?
Probably not. I've mounted one pair of skis three different times, and as long as you're careful and plan the Fritschi footprint away from your current binder's holes you should be fine.
Absolutely bomber, stiff, reliable, responsive binding. A bit heavier than some of the others out there, but you can throw these on some true fat alpine skis and control them as though you're on a dedicated alpine binding. Some postings mention the Diamir pivot point not being ideal for a natural foot swing. I haven't tried any other brands of AT bindings and can't comment, other than saying these skin much smoother than my old tele setup. They have never "auto-teled" on the descent either. A highly recommended AT binding for anything except multi-day long hauls with little vertical. But what's the fun in that?
Does the wide brake need to be purchased separately or is there an option to choose the wide brake over the standard sized brake that comes with the binding?
I started skiing when I was six. Went snowboarding when I was nineteen and returned to skiing when I was 30. We used to build all kinds of "home made" touring bindings when we were kids in New Hampshire and did the same thing when we were running the old Burton Airs over the table saw to figure out how to make spitboards. When I went back to skiing I purchased a pair of T1 bindings to use with my Structuras wich were left over from my final split board days. After destroying the T1s I went to a T2 and ran those like a couple of rented mules until I could not get any more toe pieces from Black Diamond. I picked up a set of Freerides and went to town on those for a couple of years until I passed them on to some kid in Vermont with back country dreams and no money ( ya gotta give to those in need if your cup runs over). That day I picked up a set of Freeride Plus clamps and have since been all over Canada, Europe, the West and New England with them. These are the last bindings I will buy unless they come out with something better. Cometition is good as it provides the consumer with more choises but if you are looking for the one binding that does it all this is the one. I am 5'-7" and weigh 180 lbs and ski the Freeride Plus with Evo and Zzero 4U boots with a DIN set on 7.5 front and back and have NEVER popped out unless the fall requires the binding to release my boot. Do your self a favor and throw down for a pair. P.S. Mount them with brass helo-coils so you can use them with more than one paie of skis.
I need to find an binding that is really good for cranking out turns, hitting lots of cliffs, and still has free heel capability, but doesnt sacrifice its performance while locked down..........and my ski has 115mm waist. Seems like all these have 110mm brakes........any suggestions?
You can bend out the brakes to fit your skis, or you can look into the Marker Duke/Baron. The Duke has touring capabilities, and nothing is lost from normal downhill performance. Cliffs,turns, whatever you want. Heavier though, but you can get a brake up to 130.
I sold my old AT setup - skis/skins/bindings. I bought new skis and I stuck with the Fritschi binding. They are dependable and easy to use in all snow conditions. I am 5'5" and 130 lbs and I am not an aggressive skier but I ski advanced terrain. I would recommend them under all circumstances (except a someone over 200 lbs and super aggressive). They are worth the extra weight.
I am looking to break into the backcountry and am gathering advise on whether to get Fritschis or dynafits. here's what I want them for and perhaps that will help to advise me correctly. I am planning on putting these bindings on my powder skis: dynastar exclusive legend pro rider ('08, which I believe is 97 underfoot). I have a pair of K2 public enemys that I LOVE for non-powder days inbounds (and a pair of rock skis), so I will be using the dynastars on pow days inbounds, and for BC stuff, which I would really like to start doing a lot this season. I am 5'9" 150 (female). I am an aggressive skier but I don't tend to huck a lot of crazy cliffs, I also am getting back on to the ski patrol at my local mountain in the southern Rockies, so I need these to hold up to toboggan running if it's a snow day (I've been out of the country for several years and finally can get back into patrolling after a 12 year hiatus). I've had good advise both ways, but I'm curious what you guys have to recommend. thanks, LR
The freeride is a BC mainstay for good reason. I spent many seasons on them before switching to dynafit last year. I LOVE touring on dynafits and have skied them a few days at the resorts, but there are a few advantages to the freeride. The comparison between Fritschi and Dynafit has been covered exhaustively on places like wildsnow.com and the tetongravity forums, but I'll try to sum it up. Fritschies are pure "step-in" bindings, whereas there is a bit of fiddle factor with dynafits. Fritschis have a bit more of an aggressive climbing post set-up (higher top post), and put you a bit higher off the ski than dynafits. Dynafits, in spite of their seeming lack of beef, have a much stiffer connection to the ski than freerides and have a much better touring pivot position, though I hear the new eagles aren't too far off from dynafits now. If you are going for patrol and also are new to the backcountry, I would probably go with the Fritschi set-up. You will be able to pop into and out of your skis quickly, and won't have as steep a learning curve with your gear in the BC. If you end up doing lots of BC, you will likely end up with dynafit some in the future, but freerides have and continue to work for people in exactly the capacity you describe just fine. Either binding will be durable enough to handle whatever you want to throw at them, as long as you mount and adjust them properly.
I only have 3 days on these, but feel the marker barons are a much more solid binding. I'll update as they get more use. Initially, the binding worked well but seemed flimsy...as compared to the barons.
depends on your skiing style as well as your weight and skill level. if you huck cliffs and are 200 lbs the dnyafits are not an option. freerides don't break (very often) so you don't need to bring spare parts like you do with dynafits. they are heavy compared to the lightest bindings in the world, so...
Apples and oranges in my mind...this binding is great for 'side' country pursuits, or mostly downhill ski touring. It is very heavy and not field repairable. The dynafit is light, simple and bomber. If you are going to be doing mostly ski touring do NOT hesitate at getting the dynafit!
There is a reason these are the market standard for tourers who like to ski hard - they simply work. And very well - the release, the lifters, and the walk/ski switch are all very well designed. These will give you the confidence you need to push big skis to the limit on those deep days in the backcountry. I recently also used them in the resort and found no real problems, but these are meant for day tours in places like Rogers Pass and Jackson Hole. If you skin around only once per season, buy some Dukes and you will be fine. If you ski in a resort a few times a season, but mostly earn your turns and still like to ski hard, these are definitely the ticket. If you are willing to sacrifice downhill durability for weight, get a Dynafit setup and never look back.
Can you drill a pair of K2 Anti Piste's with inserts to mount Fritschi Freeride bindings. Have the bindings on old skis and the pretty good AP's skis setting around since I bought new tele skis this year. Mainly tele but occassionally will AT and like having set up around.
You should be able to. If anything, you might have to move the binding forward or back on the ski to miss the inserts. Take your skis and boots to a shop that has these bindings and check it out, but the holes for the toe-piece of a fritschi are pretty far forward and should miss the inserts. The rears shouldn't be a problem.
This binding is a great touring binding. Tours really well on the uphill, with 4 different heel elevation positions. Very smooth lift. Pretty lightweight. This binding is great for someone who wants a binding exclusively for touring, and even for the person who wants a binding to ski inbounds and out. Even though there is a ton of plastic on this binding it is pretty durable, and feels quite solid. The only complaint I have about this binding is when actually skiing it, there is some lateral play. There is some side to side wobble when you're skiing downhill.
I'm shopping for my first AT rig. I'm 6'4", ~210; been driving long alpine skis with little or no shape for the last 20 years and I ski with a lot of power. I plan on getting a wideish ski with rocker, prob something like the Zealot or similar.
As an AT noob and someone who likes GS lines and stomps on the tails on short turns, I was leaning towards the Dynafits because of the boot-on-ski snow feel and power translation. Also, I'm apprehensive of being raised up too high in this binding.
But these look like much easier bindings to use, especially for someone in transition from an alpine binding to an AT binding. The Dynafits looked pretty complicated and I like the idea of changing modes without all the steps and ski removal.
The dynafit should be your first and last AT binding. No reason to start with something heavier that is not field repairable. If you were going to be skiing inbounds and some slack country mostly, I would say get the fritchi, BUT if you are going fully in the backcountry, then go dynafit. Your first morning out will be finicky, but its like riding a bike, and it only takes a day to get used to using the dynafits. I am a big guy also, and I love them!
Used: 4 years, touring, in area with AT and alpine boots Durability: excellent- some wear in the rear of the binding where it locks down for ski mode with no effect on performance. People who are breaking the are probably stomping on them with their opposite ski. Vs. Marker: lighter, better materials, better riser, proven design. Higher rise off ski and din 12 may be negatives fir some. Vs. Dynafit: heavier than; dynas can release in tour mode if too much lateral stress. Work with alpine boots
I have the Mediums which go down to 280mm but I'm looking at new boots that would be ~277 or 275mm. Is it an exact minimum or is it possible to go a few extra mm down to fit a slightly smaller boot?
Go with the smalls. It is better for the binding to be run at its upper limit than at its lower limit. ie it's better to run a boot with a 290 BSL in a pair of smalls than in mediums.
These have been trusty companions on several pairs of A/T skis and they work really well. I love the touring feel and pivot location. I prefer not having the optional springs installed--seems to allow me to execute switchbacks without having a mousetrap feel that the springs provide.
They are a bit heavy, which is making me lean towards going to Dynafits next year after 8 years of using Freerides. I've found them to be solid inbounds (yeah, they might flex a bit if you hammer the bumps like Moseley) and invisible in the backcountry.
Changing the lift is super-easy with the flick of a pole and locking them down for the most fun part of the day is just as simple and easy. Toe-height and length adjustments are equally easy--even in the field.
Great binding, but it is a little heavy... the only real downside.
What is the stand hight/boot hight for these bindings. Are they higher than the explore's. Are there risers you can remove. I would like to be as close to the ski as possible, while still having an AT binding that will work on an off piste. Any ideas
Wow, what a great binding! Touring in moist snow can cause some small areas to suffer ice build up. Having something along to pick the ice out of some of the small spaces prior to locking the heel back down is handy.
They ski really well, this is a great choice for the performance minded skier pushing big boards or crossing over into resort skiing.
don't understnad the the brake sizes. I have the Black Diamond Lyric, and looking at these bindings. The boot size makes sense. Help me understand the brake sizing and what might work best.
Brake sizes correspond to how wide your ski is at the waist. You need a brake that is wide enough to function in it's full range of motion and not get hung up on your ski. Since the Lyric's are 88mm underfoot, you'll need to get a brake that's designed for a ski at least that wide. I believe the Freeride "standard" size brake is 86mm, which is too small - but I think you can find them with a 95mm brake that would work just fine.
Best AT binding that I have skied that works with all boots. Use these bad boys for both backcountry and inbounds skiing. Even though you think the rise off the ski will be a big deal, its really not and it is barely noticeable. Dropped cliffs of small/moderate height, up to 25 feet to powder with no problems at all, and the ability to change to AT without taking your boot off makes it easy to switch when you hit flats while with other AT bindings you'd have to take your foot out and then clear all the snow off which on a deep day SUCKS, with these, its no worries all day.
Used these five times, then noticed the cheap plastic bracket holding the toe din spring broke. Hopefully they will warranty. Also pre released a hand full of times. Maybe I will have better luck with some dynafits? To bad I cant tour in my look turntables.
I'm sure you could, but you would undoubtedly decrease the performance of it... and if you are willing to compromise performance, get something cheaper than this (silvretta? Explore?).
Ideally, with plate binders, you want the smallest one that can fit your boot, any extra stuff off the heel will put extra stress on everything, and just be wasted weight and more prone to breaking.
the is one of the BEST AT bindings out there. now i have been using these bindings for the past 8 years. over 1000 days on them. my only complaint is they are laterally a little soft. i wish they would lower them and widen the screw pattern for today wider skis. this isn't 1999 anymore.
I agree with the other reviewers that you need to set the DIN higher than you would expect. I was prematurely releasing on hard snow until I cranked mine up. Other than that, my only gripe is that the enclosed user manual contains no information about setting them up, although Lou Dawson provides ample information at wildsnow.com.
As far as on-hill performance, they have been fantastic. Every bit as stiff as I would expect an alpine binding to be at a fraction of the weight. And they climb well to boot.
Not sure I understand the one comment about having to reach down to put them in tour mode. Just use your ski pole to release the heel or set any of the three tour heights.
I'm somewhere between beginner and average skiier, but getting better and much more comfortable with each ski trip (backcountry and groomed). Just bought a pair of Atomic Snoop Daddy: size 174. I'm 5'10" 175lbs, Anyway, Are these bindings "too advanced" for me, or are they a good all around choice that's gonna last a good handful of years as I gain experience, etc? Thanks!!!
The only thing "too advanced" about these is a relatively high stack height, meaning you are way higher over the skis than on other (non plate) bindings. This can express as feeling like you are on stilts when touring, or feeling unseated or "floaty" on your edges when carving.
These are very good alpine-touring bindings, with a very good balance. When getting into AT, think about what you intend on doing (and be honest), If you are doing predominately backcountry, these or dynafits are great. If you're going to be spending more time in-bounds, Marker AT bindings will probably survive more hard skiing.
Lasting a "good handful of years", all comes down to what you define as years, and how you ride. If you're hell on gear and ski 100 days + a year, probably won't last you two years. Take care of these, and you'll want something shinier before they fall apart.
I usually ride on Diamir Explore bindings but had a chance to try these out. In short they are bombproof. They are noticeably stiffer than the Explore version. The action clicking in and out is much smoother and I didn't have any rattling while skiing on hardpack.
I have spent a long time researching and review-reading for a nice resort/touring quiver of 1 ski and have settled on the Atomic RT-86. Am now looking for bindings, trying to decide between the Fritschi Freerides or Marker Dukes. My impression is the Freerides sit you higher above the ski and might be wobblier on the downhill than the Dukes, which have the disadvantage of extra weight. Also, I understand the RT86 skis are very eager to turn-- will sitting higher above the ski on AT bindings make them 'too quick' to turn? Good advice appreciated.
I have the FD+ mounted on a Legend 8800 (89 wide) and I am 5'7'' (158 lb). I did not noticed the extra height skiing In powder. On piste, it will partially help to compensate the difficulty that wide skis pose to carving, but the leverage is far lower than a regular piste ski with regular plates. Besides, the lower weight is always appreciated on long touring walks or when you carry on your skis in your backpack.
if all your looking for is a resort/slackcountry or an occasional day touring binding i would recommend the dukes hands down. the extra weight is really nothing you will notice. looking at the specs the new dukes are 2lbs 15oz and the fritschi's are 2lbs 4oz. the dukes in my opinion are a much more sturdy well build binding, not to say the FR are not but the duke has virtually no roll and a zero chance of having the binding switch into touring mode accidentally.
also i would look into a slightly bigger ski, depending on your size the Atomic RT-86 may be a bit small at 86 underfoot for either binding. for me i would stick to anything around 99 underfoot. but depending on your body type and style it shouldn't matter too much.
Whether you're bagging a peak in the Chugach or ripping down the groomers (not ideal), these bindings do it. I've put five seasons on my Fritschis and they're still holding up to abuse. I've used them for dozens of tours and even a good amount at the resort (more than I'd like to admit). I've never had a problem with the heel releasing while skiing. They do raise you up pretty high above the ski, and they do get some play over time, but all in all they are a good choice. Three levels for climbing, lightweight, and reliable.
Depends on what you are looking for. The duke is the best all around do everything binding on the market, but it is not the best at everything. It is heavy so for long tours a dynafit would better. It kicks ass skiing. I use the duke in bounds and out of bounds, hard pack and powder, and have no issues. Bottom line I broke four pairs of Fritschis before I started using the duke and I have had no issues with the duke. It is bomb proof and the best touring binding for skiing.
Well it kinda depends. I love the Duke personally, and it is because it is bombproof. But I know a ton of people that love this binding. It weighs less and isn't a bad compromise on the downhill, compared to some. But it rattles, at least on the couple pairs I have tried out, and held me too far up above the ski, which I don't appreciate. The Duke on the other hand, makes no noise, again, at least on mine, and keeps you lower to the ski, increasing power transmission, which I find useful on not only the downhill, but also some gnarly traverses. If you want, ask another question with info about your style and that whole deal.
These bindings are very solid. the three different touring modes and the ease of use is outstanding. I come from telemark sking and the flip turns on skin tracks are a little difficult due to the lack of a return spring. other than that hey hold me hucking off jumps and i weight 250 lb
I have used Fritschi's for several years. Yes they can be broken, especially if you stomp into them while you have ice build up on your boot. I also broke a heel piece on a very cold morning while clicking in. Support is excellent and quick. I don't know what the deal was with gregs experience. Be careful that the toe pressure is set correctly.Overall these are great bindings and release very dependably although you should use a binding checkker to set the DIN because they aren't at all calibrated or consistant in that respect. They work great with ski and AT boots and probably plastic climbing boots too.
This binding is by far the best AT binding on the market...bar none! The Marker Dukes cannot hold a candle to it in terms of durability, sensitivity, and quality of manufacture. While I do agree that for a touring only setup they are a little heavy when compared to Dynafits, they are good for those who head to the mountain and are not sure if they will play inbounds, slip into the sidecountry, or fully drop into the backcountry for an afternoon of fun. This one binding will do it all and then a little more should you ask it to. I want to address some of the "issues" that people have had with them. Firstly, MAKE SURE you get them setup by someone who knows how to set them up. Notice, I don't say bring it to any ski shop...you need a shop that knows how to adjust them perfectly for your BSL (boot sole length), your DIN, and also the toe height. If any of these are out of adjustment, then the binding can ski really sloppy and not feel tight. Also, it can be flat out dangerous. In addition, don't kick the fronts of your bindings to get the snow off your boots...it can lead to stress fracture which can eventually send you flying out of your toe retainer. Like all great ski items, it has one weakness, and that is you can't kick the heck out of it trying to get snow off your boots. Asides from that, they are better than the Dukes, tour as well as Dynafits, and flat out ROCK!
The writeup on the Duke Marker's states that "system guarantees the binding WILL NEVER INADVERTANTLY OPEN IN SKI MODE... a nice thing to know when you're 50 feet in the air and coming down fast."Is this a concern for Fritschi Freerides?I'm a fairly aggressive skiier. I might be 50 feet in the air on these bindings once or twice a season.
Not so much anymore. That used to be a pretty common problem with these bindings when the ski flexed. They did a minor modification to the down-locked latch mechanism between the freeride and freeride+ to make it beefier in that way. It can happen, but that said, You don't have to take your boot out to change modes.
I have seen guys pull the heels free on these bindings, but that is pretty rare, and pretty damn hard to do. They are designed to ski pretty aggressively, but definitely not like the Dukes, which are the best downhill touring binding around. But 50 footers shouldn't be too much for these.
these bindings are officially more torsionally rigid than any binding marker makes. i mounted them on my b-squads. mount these on the biggest stiffest skis you can find, get some skins and you're the man.
What if your boot size falls between the med and large, what size do you buy? My alpine boot measures 330 but I also want to migrate to an AT boot soon. Do AT boots size smaller or bigger that alpine boots?
Boot sole lengths are all over the map by brand, so there's no easy sole length rule of thumb I'm aware of. Unless you're way the heck up at the top end of the sole length range (like less than 3mm to spare), I'd almost always say go for the smaller binding. You'll save a little weight and muck less with the overall flex of the ski. Being DIN rated means the binding has to have the same quality of release behavior regardless of the length it's set to.
I'm new to AT set up, and decided to just cough up the cash and get these. They're mounted on a Dynastar Exclusive all-mountain ski and are GREAT in- and out-of-bounds. I was hesitant to use them with lift service as to not wear them out or ride too hard, but they're beefy and sturdy. Plus they're lightweight. Very happy.
I wanted a beefy AT binding and was instantly drawn to the Dukes. After about half a season on the Dukes, I traded them in and got the Freerides....big difference. For starters, the Dukes would eat up the heel and toe portions of the boot...not so on the Freerides. I can also switch from skinning to downhill without taking my boot out...a big problem with the Dukes. Another point which I love about the Freerides are the lift positions and height: These things put you up there ready to take on the steep...not so on the Dukes (only 2 positions...both pretty useless except for really low angle). Lastly, some words on the performance. These things are lighter than the Dukes, so when combined with the heel lift options and height, it makes for much better touring...guess the Duke is really a side-country binding. Although the Duke has that 16 DIN, for my 145lbs, the 12 DIN on the FR's is more than enough for me. Lastly, I've seen folks talk about the height of the binding which is a non issue for anyone who has skied on a modern alpine binding lately with a lifter plate....aren't they standard/integral these days?
Great for touring and easy to use. I especaily like the differnt heel elvations good for hiking up steeps. I havent had a problem with them going in to touring mode when downhilling. Overall the bindings have met all my expectations i highly reconmend them.
Recently purchased Fritschi Freeride Med bindings for my new BD Verdict skiis. The brake supplied hangs up on the skiis. Is there a brake assembly to accomodate the 4" waist of the Verdict? If so cost? Exchange? Keith
Just completed a week long backcountry ski trip in the Norwegian Alps, and wanted to share my excitement about the bindings I bought just before the trip. I am 6'6" and 250 lbs, and I am an aggressive skier. These bindings proved to be durable. I also enjoyed the heel release, without having to take off the skis to adjust. Also, the three height levels of the heel when hiking, proved to be a big plus. It makes for easier adjustments during the hike, for different terrain and slope angles. Once locked in and skiing, the bindings responded well, and gave me the confidence in all snow conditions, from hardpacked, powder to spring conditions (heavy snow). I do recommend these bindings.
I am a female skiier and am looking to get these bindings, but dont know if I should get a medium or small. I have Garmont Xena boots in a 25. Suggestions?
Ideal binding for backcountry tours... probably the best. Great mix of lightweight and burly. However, if you are looking for a crossover biding (backcountry and resort), these would work ok, but it may not be your best option. Just realize that the marker bindings are going to be heavier.
Trying to make the switch to AT but not sure which binding to buy? I'm just starting to get into backcountry and for the first year or so will be 80/20 resort/backcountry. I'm a woman, 5'6" pretty agressive skier but looking to improve and get more comfortable out of bounds.
If you already have an alpine setup though which you can continue to use inbounds, and you think there is a good chance you'll get deeper into backcountry then definitely worth considering the Dynafit bindings. You'd be glad of it in the longer run, though a steeper initial learning curve.
Just finished the first day on these...after nearly five hours of touring I can say that they perform above all expectations. The pivot point is perfectly placed, greatly reducing the energy needed to drive the ski while skinning. They do just as well going downhill, powering my gotamas with very little perceptable flex. They do create a slight dead spot underfoot, but nothing more than I have experienced with any other alpine binding. The heel piece is a bit stiff, making changing the boot angle a bit tough, but I expect that they will break in and this problem will solve itself.
I had a set of these set up at my local mountain shop. I have a 305 boot palte and the bindings are set up to the visable 305 mark on the rail. HOWEVER I have a 1.5 cm gap betweeen the heal of my boot and the back of the binding when stepping in. Is this normal? I cannot find the tech guide for these bindings on the web and do not want to take them back to the place I bought them.
That is the same way my shop set them up. I changed it because there was not enough forward pressure for me. I kept ejecting out of the binding. I changed that and haven't had a problem since. I recommend taking a screwdriver out with you on your first ride. If you have the same problem i did, change it.
Sweet binding that stands up to anything. I had a pair of Naxo's that I ruined within a month. I mounted these on my 185 pocket rockets and now I am unstoppable! Work awesome with my Garmont Adrenalines (with both soles too I might add)! Go big or go home.
Trying to figure out my boot length of my late 90's Nordica TR 9's (28.0-28.5). Inside the shell I see a number of 280-295 but I'm pretty sure these are longer than 300mm....anyone know where I can find the actual measurement?
Skied them hard for many tours and several resort days. I'm 175-180 skiing everything from the Cascade concrete to the deep pow up in the BC backcountry and they haven't flinched. Frontside performance as solid as my old Look PX-12's. They're every bit as burly as the Dukes but much more touring-friendly due to their on-the-fly function and weight. If you love touring as much as you love aggressive lines... buy these.
It will be close, but I have definitely just pulled out the brakes a bit so that they don't hit the ski, you can just bend them out with little consequence.
Got the bindings last winter. Have to say they have rocked a 70 plus winter last year and are still killing it this winter. I know the they don't have as a high din setting as the marker duke bindings. But the ablitly to take my skins off at the top of the climb and switch from walk mode into ski mode without having to take the ski off in deep powder is a HUGE plus!!
Any thoughts on the use of ski crampons vs. skins? Have experience with skins in a tele setting, but haven't ever tried the ski crampon. I guess the obvious is in a deep powder situation I imagine a ski crampon would be mediocre. Hard to say no knowing and all......
Ski crampons cannot be used for steeper slopes and skins work well on stuff that can get pretty steep. If it gets steep enough where you cant use skins. put crampons on your boots and skis on your pack
The problem with the ski crampons for these bindings is that they attatch on the binding so that when you have the heel lifter up the crampon wont even bite. so they wont do any good on steep slopes..just icy travels
Crampons are really only for very steep, hard snow, like glaciers. They won't do anything in powder and skins are generally better for low-ish angle stuff. If you're hiking the Matterhorn, get crampons.
yes, it works fine with a little craftiness by yourself or your tech. i ride el hombre's, with freerides, and a voile ski crampon set up and they're all compatible. hope this helps.
Well for all those folks that have broken these bindings or are looking for a good AT binding that will hold up let me just say that the perfect AT binding probly doesn't exsit yet. Because it's either too heavy (the Duke which has it's problems also) or it doesn't hold ya in tight enough or it's too flimsy or whatever your gripe may be. I've also broken various bindings on the hill and I know that it sucks. I'am happy to report however that I have had nothing but good results with these and believe that these are the best bet for your money presently, unless your doing seriuos mountaneering and want light weight then go with the dynafits. Anyway back to the Fritschi's. I have put them through there paces from backcountry tours to hucking cliffs to resort skiing including some terrain park and just about anything else and they have held up. Do I have my complaints? Sure, I wish they sat closer to the ski and stuff but until something better comes along I'am a very satified user.
So the Fritschi's come with 95mm brakes. The page says that "Generous 95mm brakes come standard, but you can grab the available Wide Brakes if you're packing magnum girth." However, I don't see where that's possible.How would I get wider brakes? What sizes are available? Is it possible to simply switch the brakes rather than buy them seperately?
I used this binding on demo skis for several years before purchasing, and find the Freeride to be a great all-round choice for backcountry or resorts. I mounted these bindings on a pair of 177cm Volkl Mantras with Black Diamond Ascension STS skins and they have performed exactly as I expected. I would recommend this binding for any serious backcountry skier, as well as skiers that occasionally hit the resorts.
This is a great binding. I put in on my 183 gotamas. The breaks only have to be bent a little to get around the 105mm waist. Make sure to set your DIN high.
Is the 2005 Fritschi Diamir Freeride Binding capatipble with any of these new AT/Tele combination boots. I'm looking to upgrade my boots AT boots this year and would love to consider the AT/Tele purchase.
From what I hear the boots with a bellows flex won't work super well with freerides, and are intended for dynafit style bindings. Having that bellows flex will be noticeable when skiing the boots in a fritschi style binding.-----------------The bellows would make for a super dangerous situation in non-dynafit bindings, unfortunatly.-----------------It is possible - but you need to buy a swivel style ski crampon and pull the teeth off. The attachment stops the sole flexing. This DOES NOT PROVIDE SECURE binding, and pre releases occur, but it does make it possible......if the sole can flex on the other hand forget it.
Bought these in France last year, and have had about 30 resort days and 15 touring days on them, only once have they turned into Tele turn mode whilst skiing. They vibrate when pushed, on hard pack, but for me thats there only down fall, they tour and climb very well and after using them 2 - 3 days a week for a season, they look like they'll be good for another couple of seasons yet
This is actually a question about the older freeride binding. Underneath the bar on the heel end, there is a screw that holds the rear part of the binding in place. This screw has slowly come loose and finally fell out. Trying the same screw from my other binding, I found that the threads are stripped. Do you think this is something I can send in for free repair? Or should I put a slightly bigger screw in as a replacement? Any ideas?thanks,Scott
It never hurts to try and call Black Diamond warranty, those guys are usually super accomadating. You can probably track down their phone number on the bd website and ask for warranty.i had the same problem and used a larger screw in both sides - freeride (white bindings). it works well so far.
Hey these are expensive bindings, but they do absolutely rock. The springs located in the bar running down the middle of the binding are very responsive and will aid with your turning, snapping you out of your turns as it loads and releases. It really is no joke, these things are fun!
I am currently wearing Lange 26.5 alpine boots. Will the Freerides fit the alpine (not AT) boots, and if so, what size Freeride will I need? I plan on getting AT boots later this spring, but I assume they will be in the 26-26.5 range.
These bindings are pretty lightweight considering how beefy they are. Excellent in and out of bounds, although they tend to release prematurely when bump skiing or when making super hard lean-way-over turns on hardpack.
I bought these new for last season. Shredded all year on them for both resort skiing and touring. Getting into them can be tricky, but you will get the hang of it. Very lightweight and easy to use. The toe friction plate is slightly worn so I might send them back or get a replacement piece from Black Diamond. Oh yeah, this model is way better than the older white model. Bueno!
Several people I trust have recommended these to other friends, but I am a newer skier, not planning to be very aggressive. I'm 135 lbs, 5'8". Probably 60%-40% resort/backcountry. Question is whether there is a better (ahem, cheaper) binding option I should consider instead.
If you are that much resort/backcountry than you should stick with the fritschi. It is the best compromise for the two. The naxo is another option and so is the marker duke, but both are heavier, and thus would not be as enjoyable to take into the backcountry.
Performs well in out-of-bounds as well as in-bounds, never had a problem with them releasing when they shouldn't (6'2" 230). They are easily adjustable to allow your friends to try touring, my 335mm boot fits in the upper end of the M size, and I also used an XL pair that worked great as well. It's important to maintain the tightness of the bindings' screws however, there are a lot of them and there isn't much meat to the bindings so they undergo a lot more tortional stress than other bindings I think. Especially in AT mode. I recently had the base plate of one crack in half after a hard two seasons of use, not surprising really. I'll be replacing them soon with more Fritschis!
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