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When Black Diamond designed the ATC, the climbing world was searching for the best belay device around: one that would feed rope smoothly and easily, one that didn't kink the rope while rappelling, one that would hold falls effectively and was both durable and lightweight.That's a tall order for any one device, but the ATC accomplishes all of this with determination and ease. Weight: 50 g (1.8 oz). *Comes in assorted colors.
I have been using this same type of belay device since I first started climbing when I was 14. In that time I have tried some other types and styles, but always come back to the old standby ATC because of it's simplicity and ease of use. There's not much too it, which makes it easy to not screw it up when it's important...
This is the belay device. Rope threads easily through it when looped and makes a great belay/rappel device. I've tried others, including a gri-gri, but I always come back to old faithful.
It will work, but not all that great. On my 8mm glacier rope, it can get a little dicey with the regular ATC - there's just not nearly as much stopping power as with a bigger rope. I'd go for one of the fancy ATCs for $5 more that have the teeth on one end. They will work a lot better on smaller diameter ropes.
I'd guess this is the most common device I see around. It's about as simple and straight forward as they come. There is beauty in a piece of climbing equipment when there is nothing left to add or take away. Cheryl climbed with these devices for a decade or more, and she always caught my leader falls with style. I never thought they offered the smoothness of a Pyramid, but it was probably that I just never worked with them enough to figure it out. Every climber develops his or her personal favorite, and mine was the Trango. My climbing guides prefer that I buy ATC's for our guest to use because there is only one way to feed the rope through them. Simple and time tested... you gotta like that in your climbing gear.
I have a very old ATC like this and I just ordered the Petzl Reverso because lowering a top rope rappel has two speeds on this ATC; too fast, and way too fast. I'll admit that it is tried and true, but technology changes for a reason. There is a reason that companies don't make belay plates anymore, and there is a reason that better belay devices have come on the market.
Doesn't matter! The stopping power is there with the ATC. No matter what you use for belay, if your not anchored down and your partner takes a whipper, your going for a ride.. At that point it's YOUR technique and level headedness, not the teeth on the device.. Pull the brake, he'll stop! Just be trained for a proper stance and "flight" if not belay anchored
i would also suggest going for the ATC-XP (or guide) if the belayer is that much lighter than the climber. It adds some confidence and way more breaking power.
I just started climbing fairly recently. I took a belaying course where we were taught belaying with a Grigri. I personally did not like the Grigri as it takes quite a bit of time to get a feel for it and accurately control descents. So, when I bought my own gear, I followed alot of online advice and purchased this. I use a 10.5mm rope and this works great. Secure and easy to control; I can't imagine a better set-up to learn on. I've taught a couple of friends with this device and they like it too. I think it says alot when I trust this device in the hands of a rookey belaying partner while I'm hanging from the wall. Plus it weighs almost nothing compared to other devices.
While i won't use a Gri-gri, I don't have any problem with it except for this: some of the most dangeous behavior I have seen climbing was climbers who learned how to belay with Gri-gris and could not use an ATC properly. I'm talking about belayers taking their brake hand off of the rope. Eric of course I'm not saying this is you, but your review made me think of this. Gri-gris work great in the gym and in SOME straight-up sport climbing situations, but once you get into the real world, i.e. multipitch climbing, any place you might possibly have to rappel, or even if you need to borrow a belay device and surprise! everyone has ATCs, you have to actually belay instead of letting the device do it for you. In my opinion, everyone should learn how to belay with an ATC, then move on to fancy automatic devices when they have the technique down. Teaching someone to use only an automatic belay device then turning them loose in the hills is a recipe for disaster.
I recently learnt how to belay out in Jasper National Park, and with this device, it was a simple easy process. The ATC has no extras to it, so there is nothing to confuse a beginner, or even someone who is pretty hungover. The coating on it is pretty bomber, holding up to banging against walls, and being dropped after a hike in, but the rope will burn it out of the channels pretty quick.
This was my second belay device, my first being a rescue 8. Better than the 8 for climbing, because of weight and there seems to be less rope slip. Of course this piece slips a bit even with ropes around 10mm. I haven't used it with any rope thinner than 10mm. If you want more control during rappelling try extending the atc from the belay loop and use a backup friction knot like a prusik knot. For belaying a leader the atc works great, and some slippage is a good thing, since a small amount of slippage exerts less force on the protection/anchors. Feeding rope to the leader is so much nicer than with an auto locking belay device. Another plus is that this is lightweight. I suggest buying the atc guide or petzl reverso 3 if you plan to ever do any multi pitch stuff or anything where you may have to belay off of anchors. I prefer this unit to the gri gri, though once you learn the gri gri techniques the gri gri is nice for top rope and sport climbing. If you're just starting to climb or do short rappels and stuff buy this or the atc guide or the petzl reverso 3.
The BD ATCif you don't own one, you should. Hands down the standard device with probably 90% of climbers out there and for good reason. Light so it's not pulling you down. Simple so you can quickly and confidently set up that last rappel after 8 hours on the rock and still enjoy the post climb pizza and beer instead of being life-flighted out of the canyon. Streamlined so it doesn't snag on features, foliage, or anything else while you're grunting up a sketchy chimney section that won't take your wimpy less-than-12" cams. Bombproof and nearly bumble-proof. What else is there?
have been climbing for 9 years now and I will always use an ATC device, several climbers claim ATC devices are not as safe as a Grigri but I disagree. Lighter, faster, better all around. I use with ropes from 9.5mm in diameter to 10.5mm and it works great with those diameters. I weigh 165 and have belayed people weighing from 50lbs. to 230lbs. and have never had a problem with falls or anything of that nature.
This atc will get the job done but I wish i would have forked out the extra 5-9 bucks and went with the bd guide or bd xp or the petzl reverso 3. i have used the reverso and the guide and i love them. I am even considering getting one of them even tho i have this. Overall i will get the job done but I would recomend spluging a little especially if ur going to be doing a lot of top roping
The Black Diamond ATC sets the bar for all other belay devices. I would rather use this over any other device, Reverso, Gri-gri, you name it. The best. That being said the ATC XP is pretty handy as well, but I can't wait till the new ATC guide comes out on the market.
Been using this ATC for about six weeks now, it does what it's supposed to do and well. Easy feeding, low friction and heat. No problems with the tube/wire getting sucked into the feeder like some people have reported. Good buy.
This belay device isnt the pinnacle of belay device technology, but because it is one of the easiest to use and most simplistic. Great for rappelling, solid on belay, bomb-proof, and basic, this is the first thing you should learn on and might be the last thing you'll ever use. Dont monkey around at first with a Gri-Gri or Cinch. Use this version of the ATC and you'll be set in more situations that you could imagine from here on in.
Work at one of the countries leading climbing walls I often see bad belaying due to either poor technique or lack of concentration from belayers, hence why manufacturers make belay devices which give more friction on the rope but this also shortens rope life where the atc doesn't!! So if your having problems maybe you need to look at your style of belaying?!
The ATC is a good back up belay. Spend the money and buy a gri-gri. For anyone who climbs with a partner that is heavier a gri gri will provide a security blanket for the lighter partner.
This belay device does its job...saves lives when it needs to. I typically use PTZ0143 (grigri) but this piece is my default on longer routes. Great/lightweight piece. I'm alive to climb another day.
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