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When Black Diamond designed the ATC, the climbing world was searching for the best belay device around: one that would feed rope smoothly and easily, one that didn't kink the rope while rappelling, one that would hold falls effectively and was both durable and lightweight.That's a tall order for any one device, but the ATC accomplishes all of this with determination and ease. Weight: 50 g (1.8 oz). *Comes in assorted colors.
I have been using this same type of belay device since I first started climbing when I was 14. In that time I have tried some other types and styles, but always come back to the old standby ATC because of it's simplicity and ease of use. There's not much too it, which makes it easy to not screw it up when it's important...
It will work, but not all that great. On my 8mm glacier rope, it can get a little dicey with the regular ATC - there's just not nearly as much stopping power as with a bigger rope. I'd go for one of the fancy ATCs for $5 more that have the teeth on one end. They will work a lot better on smaller diameter ropes.
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This is the belay device. Rope threads easily through it when looped and makes a great belay/rappel device. I've tried others, including a gri-gri, but I always come back to old faithful.
I've been using this belay device or one like it for as long as i can remember climbing. easy to use from the start and has decent friction and is hard to beat till you wanna belay a seconding climber but what do you expect right? not what its for. and does a pretty good rappel if you wanna give that a shot with it, id like some more friction but then again what do you expect, not its primary function but if your like me and don't have the money laying around for an atc guide it'll get the job done and if you build some muscle well thats not gonna hurt anyone right? all around it does its job fantastic and the only time i can think of getting rid of it is to upgrade cause it sure isn't breaking, even the cables made like a tank!
Doesn't matter! The stopping power is there with the ATC. No matter what you use for belay, if your not anchored down and your partner takes a whipper, your going for a ride.. At that point it's YOUR technique and level headedness, not the teeth on the device.. Pull the brake, he'll stop! Just be trained for a proper stance and "flight" if not belay anchored
i would also suggest going for the ATC-XP (or guide) if the belayer is that much lighter than the climber. It adds some confidence and way more breaking power.
I just started climbing fairly recently. I took a belaying course where we were taught belaying with a Grigri. I personally did not like the Grigri as it takes quite a bit of time to get a feel for it and accurately control descents. So, when I bought my own gear, I followed alot of online advice and purchased this. I use a 10.5mm rope and this works great. Secure and easy to control; I can't imagine a better set-up to learn on. I've taught a couple of friends with this device and they like it too. I think it says alot when I trust this device in the hands of a rookey belaying partner while I'm hanging from the wall. Plus it weighs almost nothing compared to other devices.
While i won't use a Gri-gri, I don't have any problem with it except for this: some of the most dangeous behavior I have seen climbing was climbers who learned how to belay with Gri-gris and could not use an ATC properly. I'm talking about belayers taking their brake hand off of the rope. Eric of course I'm not saying this is you, but your review made me think of this. Gri-gris work great in the gym and in SOME straight-up sport climbing situations, but once you get into the real world, i.e. multipitch climbing, any place you might possibly have to rappel, or even if you need to borrow a belay device and surprise! everyone has ATCs, you have to actually belay instead of letting the device do it for you. In my opinion, everyone should learn how to belay with an ATC, then move on to fancy automatic devices when they have the technique down. Teaching someone to use only an automatic belay device then turning them loose in the hills is a recipe for disaster.
Works great, but is unspectacular. You can get the same thing for $6 less in the CAMP equivalent, but both work and work well. No complaints, no surprises.
Not only does it work great as my backup belay device, but I have used it for rappelling down a outdoor sport route to clean up my draws. I first learned how to belay using the ATC, I have tried others but was not impressed. I recommend this belay device, it's simple and works great.
This is a good belay device. I use one in the gym all the time. However, I prefer the ATC-XP for anything outside, especially sport climbing. I just like to have the extra friction there when I need it. Nothing wrong with this, just a matter of preference is all.
I'd guess this is the most common device I see around. It's about as simple and straight forward as they come. There is beauty in a piece of climbing equipment when there is nothing left to add or take away. Cheryl climbed with these devices for a decade or more, and she always caught my leader falls with style. I never thought they offered the smoothness of a Pyramid, but it was probably that I just never worked with them enough to figure it out. Every climber develops his or her personal favorite, and mine was the Trango. My climbing guides prefer that I buy ATC's for our guest to use because there is only one way to feed the rope through them. Simple and time tested... you gotta like that in your climbing gear.
This belay device isnt the pinnacle of belay device technology, but because it is one of the easiest to use and most simplistic. Great for rappelling, solid on belay, bomb-proof, and basic, this is the first thing you should learn on and might be the last thing you'll ever use. Dont monkey around at first with a Gri-Gri or Cinch. Use this version of the ATC and you'll be set in more situations that you could imagine from here on in.
This device is probably as basic as belay devices go. It does it's job well, and is plenty tough, so you'll never have to worry about buying another one. However, it does lack friction while belaying. For beginners it is great,and for it's price you won't find a better one.
The atc does the its job as well as any tube style device on the market. Its really simple and works just like it supposed to. But if your considering buying the basic one i would really recomend stepping up and getting the ATC Guide. Its added function will allow you to progress furthar in climbing without having to buy a new device later down the road.
I learnt how to belay on a BD ATC on a climbing trip to Jasper, and there is a reason that it has a 5 star rating with 40-odd reviews. It is essentially idiot proof. It feeds the rope as good as any other tube device, brakes as hard as it needs to be, and offers a relatively soft catch overall. The finish is very durable, holding up against scraping on the rock and general mountain tomfoolery, but the rope channels finish rubs out quickly. Extremely simple to set up for a rappel, I also learnt how to rappel on one of these. I have moved on, preferring a GriGri since I climb primarily sport, and bionking my partner back up to his bolt is a lot less work. But that doesn't mean that the ATC is off my harness. I keep it with me at all time, and use it frequently for rappelling and to belay to keep my technique up to snuff.
This is highly recommended as a stepping stone for beginners. Buy an ATC, and after you are competent enough on it, then you can decide to move to something else that could make your belay easier for you, or stick with this classic.
What can I say? After five years of use both indoor and outdoor it shows nearly no wear and it's easy to use.
This was my first belay device and still my favorite. It has no teeth and requires concentration and a firm grip at all times while being used. That's part of the reason I like it: it forces the belayer to pay attention because it will not do any of the work for them. It's what I like to use and it's what I prefer my belayer to use. It's also easier on ropes because of the smooth surfaces, though for smaller (9mm) ropes it can require some extra strength to hold it.
The ATC is classic. So classic, most people call all tube style devices ATC's. The only problem is this device will not autoblock if you want to belay from the anchor. So ... buy a Trango B-52.
Simple, light, strong. It will stop a falling climber or enable you to smoothly rappel anything you wish. I do wish it had a little more friction variability. there are pretty much three positions; fall, stop, and descend. I wish the descend had a little more range of speed without having to squeeze tighter with the brake hand to accomplish it. Overall though, it will get the job done as often as it needs to be done!
This atc will get the job done but I wish i would have forked out the extra 5-9 bucks and went with the bd guide or bd xp or the petzl reverso 3. i have used the reverso and the guide and i love them. I am even considering getting one of them even tho i have this. Overall i will get the job done but I would recomend spluging a little especially if ur going to be doing a lot of top roping
This was my second belay device, my first being a rescue 8. Better than the 8 for climbing, because of weight and there seems to be less rope slip. Of course this piece slips a bit even with ropes around 10mm. I haven't used it with any rope thinner than 10mm. If you want more control during rappelling try extending the atc from the belay loop and use a backup friction knot like a prusik knot. For belaying a leader the atc works great, and some slippage is a good thing, since a small amount of slippage exerts less force on the protection/anchors. Feeding rope to the leader is so much nicer than with an auto locking belay device. Another plus is that this is lightweight. I suggest buying the atc guide or petzl reverso 3 if you plan to ever do any multi pitch stuff or anything where you may have to belay off of anchors. I prefer this unit to the gri gri, though once you learn the gri gri techniques the gri gri is nice for top rope and sport climbing. If you're just starting to climb or do short rappels and stuff buy this or the atc guide or the petzl reverso 3.
No bells and whistles, just a great device that gets the job done. It works great on rappels, as well as belaying for top rope or lead climbing. It'd be nice if if had a high friction option like the BD ATC-XP, but you can't complain as it gets the job done every time.
The BD ATCif you don't own one, you should. Hands down the standard device with probably 90% of climbers out there and for good reason. Light so it's not pulling you down. Simple so you can quickly and confidently set up that last rappel after 8 hours on the rock and still enjoy the post climb pizza and beer instead of being life-flighted out of the canyon. Streamlined so it doesn't snag on features, foliage, or anything else while you're grunting up a sketchy chimney section that won't take your wimpy less-than-12" cams. Bombproof and nearly bumble-proof. What else is there?
The Black Diamond ATC sets the bar for all other belay devices. I would rather use this over any other device, Reverso, Gri-gri, you name it. The best. That being said the ATC XP is pretty handy as well, but I can't wait till the new ATC guide comes out on the market.
have been climbing for 9 years now and I will always use an ATC device, several climbers claim ATC devices are not as safe as a Grigri but I disagree. Lighter, faster, better all around. I use with ropes from 9.5mm in diameter to 10.5mm and it works great with those diameters. I weigh 165 and have belayed people weighing from 50lbs. to 230lbs. and have never had a problem with falls or anything of that nature.
Work at one of the countries leading climbing walls I often see bad belaying due to either poor technique or lack of concentration from belayers, hence why manufacturers make belay devices which give more friction on the rope but this also shortens rope life where the atc doesn't!! So if your having problems maybe you need to look at your style of belaying?!
Been using this ATC for about six weeks now, it does what it's supposed to do and well. Easy feeding, low friction and heat. No problems with the tube/wire getting sucked into the feeder like some people have reported. Good buy.
I have a very old ATC like this and I just ordered the Petzl Reverso because lowering a top rope rappel has two speeds on this ATC; too fast, and way too fast. I'll admit that it is tried and true, but technology changes for a reason. There is a reason that companies don't make belay plates anymore, and there is a reason that better belay devices have come on the market.
This belay device does its job...saves lives when it needs to. I typically use PTZ0143 (grigri) but this piece is my default on longer routes. Great/lightweight piece. I'm alive to climb another day.
The ATC is a good back up belay. Spend the money and buy a gri-gri. For anyone who climbs with a partner that is heavier a gri gri will provide a security blanket for the lighter partner.
I have been using this same type of belay device since I first started climbing when I was 14. In that time I have tried some other types and styles, but more...
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