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Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

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ATC Belay Device
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When Black Diamond designed the ATC, the climbing world was searching for the best belay device around: one that would feed rope smoothly and easily, one that didn't kink the rope while rappelling, one that would hold falls effectively and was both durable and lightweight.That's a tall order for any one device, but the ATC accomplishes all of this with determination and ease. Weight: 50 g (1.8 oz). *Comes in assorted colors.

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Rating for this product: 5

simple's the name of the game

By: Backcountry.com Sponsored Athlete
September 14, 2009

I have been using this same type of belay device since I first started climbing when I was 14. In that time I have tried some other types and styles, but always come back to the old standby ATC because of it's simplicity and ease of use. There's not much too it, which makes it easy to not screw it up when it's important...

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Rating for this product: 5

The Tried and True

By:
July 10, 2010

Simple, light, and effective. I've used it for repelling and belaying, and it's never let me down for either.

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How does it work with 7.5 or 7.7 mm ropes?

How does it work with 7.5 or 7.7 mm ropes?

By:
April 11, 2009

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It will work, but not all that great. On my 8mm glacier rope, it can get a little dicey with the regular ATC - there's just not nearly as much stopping power as with a bigger rope. I'd go for one of the fancy ATCs for $5 more that have the teeth on one end. They will work a lot better on smaller diameter ropes.

By:
April 12, 2009

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Air Traffic Control

By:
July 8, 2009

Light and easy.

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1 Comment Last Comment: April 25, 2010 by:

By:
April 25, 2010

Excellent demo pic!

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Rating for this product: 5

Easy & Strong

By:
November 2, 2009

This is the belay device. Rope threads easily through it when looped and makes a great belay/rappel device. I've tried others, including a gri-gri, but I always come back to old faithful.

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Rating for this product: 4

pretty darn good

By:
June 19, 2010

I've been using this belay device or one like it for as long as i can remember climbing. easy to use from the start and has decent friction and is hard to beat till you wanna belay a seconding climber but what do you expect right? not what its for. and does a pretty good rappel if you wanna give that a shot with it, id like some more friction but then again what do you expect, not its primary function but if your like me and don't have the money laying around for an atc guide it'll get the job done and if you build some muscle well thats not gonna hurt anyone right? all around it does its job fantastic and the only time i can think of getting rid of it is to upgrade cause it sure isn't breaking, even the cables made like a tank!

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is this the best belay for someone just getting started that

is this the best belay for someone just getting started that is 100 lbs lighter than their climbing partner?

By:
April 23, 2008

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Doesn't matter! The stopping power is there with the ATC. No matter what you use for belay, if your not anchored down and your partner takes a whipper, your going for a ride.. At that point it's YOUR technique and level headedness, not the teeth on the device.. Pull the brake, he'll stop! Just be trained for a proper stance and "flight" if not belay anchored

By:
August 30, 2009

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i would also suggest going for the ATC-XP (or guide) if the belayer is that much lighter than the climber. It adds some confidence and way more breaking power.

By:
June 25, 2008

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Rating for this product: 5

Great For Beginners

By:
October 31, 2008

I just started climbing fairly recently. I took a belaying course where we were taught belaying with a Grigri. I personally did not like the Grigri as it takes quite a bit of time to get a feel for it and accurately control descents. So, when I bought my own gear, I followed alot of online advice and purchased this. I use a 10.5mm rope and this works great. Secure and easy to control; I can't imagine a better set-up to learn on. I've taught a couple of friends with this device and they like it too. I think it says alot when I trust this device in the hands of a rookey belaying partner while I'm hanging from the wall. Plus it weighs almost nothing compared to other devices.

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1 Comment Last Comment: November 9, 2009 by:

By:
November 9, 2009

While i won't use a Gri-gri, I don't have any problem with it except for this: some of the most dangeous behavior I have seen climbing was climbers who learned how to belay with Gri-gris and could not use an ATC properly. I'm talking about belayers taking their brake hand off of the rope. Eric of course I'm not saying this is you, but your review made me think of this. Gri-gris work great in the gym and in SOME straight-up sport climbing situations, but once you get into the real world, i.e. multipitch climbing, any place you might possibly have to rappel, or even if you need to borrow a belay device and surprise! everyone has ATCs, you have to actually belay instead of letting the device do it for you. In my opinion, everyone should learn how to belay with an ATC, then move on to fancy automatic devices when they have the technique down. Teaching someone to use only an automatic belay device then turning them loose in the hills is a recipe for disaster.

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Rating for this product: 4

Works well

By:
April 15, 2010

Works great, but is unspectacular. You can get the same thing for $6 less in the CAMP equivalent, but both work and work well. No complaints, no surprises.

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Rating for this product: 5

Versitile and a classic

By:
February 28, 2010

Not only does it work great as my backup belay device, but I have used it for rappelling down a outdoor sport route to clean up my draws. I first learned how to belay using the ATC, I have tried others but was not impressed. I recommend this belay device, it's simple and works great.

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Rating for this product: 5

Reliable!

By:
March 5, 2009

Simple to use!
I learned to climb the belay device and I continue to use it for ski touring,climbing,ski mountaineering!
A classic!

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Rating for this product: 4

ATC

By:
February 7, 2010

This is a good belay device. I use one in the gym all the time. However, I prefer the ATC-XP for anything outside, especially sport climbing. I just like to have the extra friction there when I need it. Nothing wrong with this, just a matter of preference is all.

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Rating for this product: 5

Our Climbing Guides love them

By:
November 21, 2007

I'd guess this is the most common device I see around. It's about as simple and straight forward as they come. There is beauty in a piece of climbing equipment when there is nothing left to add or take away. Cheryl climbed with these devices for a decade or more, and she always caught my leader falls with style. I never thought they offered the smoothness of a Pyramid, but it was probably that I just never worked with them enough to figure it out. Every climber develops his or her personal favorite, and mine was the Trango. My climbing guides prefer that I buy ATC's for our guest to use because there is only one way to feed the rope through them. Simple and time tested... you gotta like that in your climbing gear.

Daryl Stisser
Sylvan Rocks Climbing School

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Rating for this product: 5

The standard

By:
May 20, 2009

The device all others are compared to. The ATC is light, easy to use and is a must for any rack.

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Rating for this product: 4

Classic

By:
March 17, 2009

Great and solid ATC. 9 of 10 of the ATC i see other climbers having are BD's

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Rating for this product: 5

Start with this, go from there

By:
May 25, 2009

This belay device isnt the pinnacle of belay device technology, but because it is one of the easiest to use and most simplistic. Great for rappelling, solid on belay, bomb-proof, and basic, this is the first thing you should learn on and might be the last thing you'll ever use. Dont monkey around at first with a Gri-Gri or Cinch. Use this version of the ATC and you'll be set in more situations that you could imagine from here on in.

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Rating for this product: 4

Simple yet functional

By:
June 15, 2010

This device is probably as basic as belay devices go. It does it's job well, and is plenty tough, so you'll never have to worry about buying another one. However, it does lack friction while belaying. For beginners it is great,and for it's price you won't find a better one.

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Rating for this product: 4

Your Stock Tube Style Device

By:
May 25, 2010

The atc does the its job as well as any tube style device on the market. Its really simple and works just like it supposed to. But if your considering buying the basic one i would really recomend stepping up and getting the ATC Guide. Its added function will allow you to progress furthar in climbing without having to buy a new device later down the road.

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Rating for this product: 5

Classic

By:
November 26, 2008

Beginners welcome.

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Rating for this product: 5

Great Starter

By:
May 10, 2010

I learnt how to belay on a BD ATC on a climbing trip to Jasper, and there is a reason that it has a 5 star rating with 40-odd reviews. It is essentially idiot proof. It feeds the rope as good as any other tube device, brakes as hard as it needs to be, and offers a relatively soft catch overall. The finish is very durable, holding up against scraping on the rock and general mountain tomfoolery, but the rope channels finish rubs out quickly. Extremely simple to set up for a rappel, I also learnt how to rappel on one of these. I have moved on, preferring a GriGri since I climb primarily sport, and bionking my partner back up to his bolt is a lot less work. But that doesn't mean that the ATC is off my harness. I keep it with me at all time, and use it frequently for rappelling and to belay to keep my technique up to snuff.

This is highly recommended as a stepping stone for beginners. Buy an ATC, and after you are competent enough on it, then you can decide to move to something else that could make your belay easier for you, or stick with this classic.

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Rating for this product: 5

Simple, Durable, Strong

By:
December 14, 2009

What can I say? After five years of use both indoor and outdoor it shows nearly no wear and it's easy to use.

This was my first belay device and still my favorite. It has no teeth and requires concentration and a firm grip at all times while being used. That's part of the reason I like it: it forces the belayer to pay attention because it will not do any of the work for them. It's what I like to use and it's what I prefer my belayer to use. It's also easier on ropes because of the smooth surfaces, though for smaller (9mm) ropes it can require some extra strength to hold it.

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Rating for this product: 3

THE classic tube style belay device

By:
March 16, 2010

The ATC is classic. So classic, most people call all tube style devices ATC's. The only problem is this device will not autoblock if you want to belay from the anchor. So ... buy a Trango B-52.

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1 Comment Last Comment: May 1, 2010 by:

By:
May 1, 2010

B-52? are we still in the dark ages? The Reverso and Guide ATC are way better for that purpose, because of the way that you set them up on the anchor.

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Rating for this product: 4

great but could be better

By:
April 29, 2010

Simple, light, strong. It will stop a falling climber or enable you to smoothly rappel anything you wish. I do wish it had a little more friction variability. there are pretty much three positions; fall, stop, and descend. I wish the descend had a little more range of speed without having to squeeze tighter with the brake hand to accomplish it. Overall though, it will get the job done as often as it needs to be done!

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Rating for this product: 3

Will get the job done

By:
April 20, 2009

This atc will get the job done but I wish i would have forked out the extra 5-9 bucks and went with the bd guide or bd xp or the petzl reverso 3. i have used the reverso and the guide and i love them. I am even considering getting one of them even tho i have this. Overall i will get the job done but I would recomend spluging a little especially if ur going to be doing a lot of top roping

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Rating for this product: 5

Ol' Faithful

By:
January 2, 2009

Best to learn on, hands down. A classic piece that needs no improvement. Also lighter and takes up less room than a grigri

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Rating for this product: 5

EXCELLENT CLASSIC

By:
April 6, 2009

Don't be caught without one. Keep it plain and simple and don't worry about all the gimmicks with the ACT Bleay Device.

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Rating for this product: 5

great

By:
July 3, 2008

simple... with this device there's not much that can go wrong if you use it properly... love it. its all i buy

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Rating for this product: 4

Good but...

By:
June 2, 2009

This was my second belay device, my first being a rescue 8. Better than the 8 for climbing, because of weight and there seems to be less rope slip. Of course this piece slips a bit even with ropes around 10mm. I haven't used it with any rope thinner than 10mm. If you want more control during rappelling try extending the atc from the belay loop and use a backup friction knot like a prusik knot. For belaying a leader the atc works great, and some slippage is a good thing, since a small amount of slippage exerts less force on the protection/anchors. Feeding rope to the leader is so much nicer than with an auto locking belay device. Another plus is that this is lightweight. I suggest buying the atc guide or petzl reverso 3 if you plan to ever do any multi pitch stuff or anything where you may have to belay off of anchors. I prefer this unit to the gri gri, though once you learn the gri gri techniques the gri gri is nice for top rope and sport climbing. If you're just starting to climb or do short rappels and stuff buy this or the atc guide or the petzl reverso 3.

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Rating for this product: 5

Basic, yet Extremely Efficient

By:
May 3, 2010

No bells and whistles, just a great device that gets the job done. It works great on rappels, as well as belaying for top rope or lead climbing. It'd be nice if if had a high friction option like the BD ATC-XP, but you can't complain as it gets the job done every time.

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Rating for this product: 5

old faithful

By:
April 24, 2003

The BD ATC—if you don't own one, you should. Hands down the standard device with probably 90% of climbers out there and for good reason. Light so it's not pulling you down. Simple so you can quickly and confidently set up that last rappel after 8 hours on the rock and still enjoy the post climb pizza and beer instead of being life-flighted out of the canyon. Streamlined so it doesn't snag on features, foliage, or anything else while you're grunting up a sketchy chimney section that won't take your wimpy less-than-12" cams. Bombproof and nearly bumble-proof. What else is there?

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Rating for this product: 3

Classic

By:
November 7, 2008

The ATC is the classic belay device and the design will never go out of date. i always carry an ATC with me(backup). Great for the price.

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Rating for this product: 5

Classic

By:
January 3, 2003

Safe, simple, straight forward. It''s a classic.

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Rating for this product: 5

The basic

By:
November 28, 2005

The Black Diamond ATC sets the bar for all other belay devices. I would rather use this over any other device, Reverso, Gri-gri, you name it. The best. That being said the ATC XP is pretty handy as well, but I can't wait till the new ATC guide comes out on the market.

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Rating for this product: 5

Great

By:
March 4, 2006

This is really simple and easy to use. Made me glad since I'm just starting up.

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Rating for this product: 5

Classic will always use Black Diamond ATC Belay Device

By:
November 12, 2008

have been climbing for 9 years now and I will always use an ATC device, several climbers claim ATC devices are not as safe as a Grigri but I disagree. Lighter, faster, better all around. I use with ropes from 9.5mm in diameter to 10.5mm and it works great with those diameters. I weigh 165 and have belayed people weighing from 50lbs. to 230lbs. and have never had a problem with falls or anything of that nature.

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Rating for this product: 5

K.I.S.S.

By:
April 10, 2009

Keep it simple stupid, and they did. Does just what it is supposed to, and is light what else is there to say.

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Rating for this product: 5

Making up for bad technique

By:
October 17, 2008

Work at one of the countries leading climbing walls I often see bad belaying due to either poor technique or lack of concentration from belayers, hence why manufacturers make belay devices which give more friction on the rope but this also shortens rope life where the atc doesn't!! So if your having problems maybe you need to look at your style of belaying?!

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Rating for this product: 5

love it

By:
May 13, 2009

smooth & easy

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Rating for this product: 5

Industry standard

By:
October 1, 2009

Simple, works every time.

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Rating for this product: 5

Must Have

By:
October 15, 2002

I'll never use anything but Black Diamond ATC. It's the handiest tool for rappelling and belaying, and I trust my life to it.

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Rating for this product: 5

You must buy it.....

By:
June 25, 2004

I have to say THAT I TRUST MY LIFE to this great device.

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Rating for this product: 4

Simple, Effective, Inexpensive

By:
February 28, 2006

Been using this ATC for about six weeks now, it does what it's supposed to do and well. Easy feeding, low friction and heat. No problems with the tube/wire getting sucked into the feeder like some people have reported. Good buy.

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Rating for this product: 2

Slick like Ice

By:
August 28, 2008

I have a very old ATC like this and I just ordered the Petzl Reverso because lowering a top rope rappel has two speeds on this ATC; too fast, and way too fast. I'll admit that it is tried and true, but technology changes for a reason. There is a reason that companies don't make belay plates anymore, and there is a reason that better belay devices have come on the market.

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Rating for this product: 5

Pyramid, not a basket

By:
September 15, 2009

Keeps me from forgetting which way to have the Belay device. Very simple and light weight. I predict MANY years of strong use from this device.

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Rating for this product: 4

We felt quite confident.

By:
June 9, 2008

Device worked great though perhaps a little too much friction with double ropes; perhaps a narrower rope would have helped.

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Rating for this product: 5

the classic

By: Backcountry.com Employee
March 30, 2010

I still prefer the classic to the XP, it just feeds better. Simple design and great addition to any sport rack.

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Rating for this product: 5

must learn

By: Backcountry.com Employee
June 6, 2006

If you climb with ropes this is a must have.

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Rating for this product: 3

The Essential

By: Backcountry.com Employee
August 6, 2009

This belay device does its job...saves lives when it needs to. I typically use PTZ0143 (grigri) but this piece is my default on longer routes. Great/lightweight piece. I'm alive to climb another day.

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Rating for this product: 5

Classic

By: Backcountry.com Employee
June 16, 2008

This device has been around awhile and there are many reasons why. It is reliable and easy to use. A great first belay device!

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Rating for this product: 5

it's saved my butt plenty of times

By: Backcountry.com Employee
May 28, 2008

I love the no frills BD ATC. straightforward and simple and it's great to have just one piece that you can belay with and rappel on.

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Rating for this product: 5

Old school functionality still rocks!

By: Backcountry.com Employee
May 28, 2008

This is the work-horse of climbing. The ATC lasts forever, and is bomb-proof as a belay device. Really a great purchase for any climber.

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Rating for this product: 5

Basic

By: Backcountry.com Alumni
December 12, 2006

This is basic, does the job, safe and works well. lightweight. If you don't want anything too crazy, this is a good choice to go with.

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Rating for this product: 3

Good back up

By:
May 19, 2008

The ATC is a good back up belay. Spend the money and buy a gri-gri. For anyone who climbs with a partner that is heavier a gri gri will provide a security blanket for the lighter partner.

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Change me.

$18.95
Item: BLD0111

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33 in Stock
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Assorted Colors, One Size (18.95)

simple's the name of the game

5 star rating

By: Cody Barnhill September 14, 2009

I have been using this same type of belay device since I first started climbing when I was 14. In that time I have tried some other types and styles, but more...

The Tried and True

5 star rating

By: Rob Miller July 10, 2010

Simple, light, and effective. I've used it for repelling and belaying, and it's never let me down for either. more...

Material:
7075-T6 aluminum alloy 
Auto Locking:
No 
Strength:
24kN (5395 lbf) 
Recommended use:
Belay/Rappel device 
Weight:
50 g (1.8oz) 
Warranty:
1 Year 
Country of Origin:
China 

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