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Waterproof breathable Gore-Tex Pro material helps the Arc'teryx Men's Alpha SV Jacket block the burliest storms while reinforcements handle the abuses of life in the alpine world. As one of the toughest jackets in the Arc'teryx line, the Alpha SV Jacket has become a top choice for alpinists, mountaineers, and ice climbers expecting to do battle with the worst weather. A high collar and helmet-compatible hood keep the blowing snow and driving wind at bay. Arc'teryx added Underarm zips for ventilation in mellow conditions, so you don't overheat while breaking trail in two feet of new snow.
Bottom Line: Be prepared for the worst mountain weather with the incredibly tough Arc'teryx Men's Alpha SV Jacket.
Like most people, I love this jacket. The medium fits me perfectly, with room to layer and excellent freedom of movement (6', 170lbs, 40 chest). The harness thingies actually work. It is definitely tough and waterproof... mine stood up to a 7 day trek to the summit of Kilimanjaro and many high sierra climbing trips and still looks new. Mine is made in Canada and its a new Candy Apple Red model. The craftsmanship and quality of materials on this piece makes everything else look sad. I use the Alpha LT when backing up a softshell and this one as a primary when the weather means business.
The extra cost of the Arc'teryx Alpha SV is due to the face fabric. The SV uses a super durable face fabric that holds up to a ridiculous amount of abuse. The Alpha LT uses a lighter face fabric, that, while not as tough as the SV, is more durable than any other jacket for the weight. Buy the one that will fit your needs- if you're planning on wearing it daily, for years, go SV. I have the LT because I usually wear softshell jackets, and only pull out the gore-tex when it's really nasty.
Arcteryx has a slavishly devoted flock that allows them to charge ridiculous prices for some of their pieces... and I myself am vulnerable. I bought a used one and am happy with the deal, but no way for list price. I have other jackets by Mountain Hardware, Montbell, and Marmot, and there is no way that this is 2-3 times better than those (whereas the price is 2-3x more).
I have the XCR model (made in Canada). The differences with the new pro-shells are: laminated rather than stitched seams, slightly more vertical front pockets, got rid of the bulky plastic tabs attached to zipper cords to save weight. The whole breathability of Gore-Tex like fabrics is overrated. Yes they do breath more, but if you really want to have a big effect on breathability, partially unzip the jacket and open the pit zips! The thickness of the fabric is a little more durable than other Arcteryx models for durability.
Arcterxy looks fashionable for gear, which is nice. The front pockets are nice and tend to work better when wearing a pack than side pockets. But for the cost of replacing this, I have to think twice about glissading in it. Also, sincle late 2007, Arcteryx has moved most of their production to China. The MBAs have figured a way to increase profits without dropping the price. Don't even try to explain it as offsetting the high price of gas!
I can tell you something when it comes to price. This jacket costs an additional 300 $ in Norway. as do most gore tex pro shell jackets of any brand. So Backcountry prices seem pretty darn great from this side of the Great Salt Lake.=)
Here is a photo of the inside lining of by the chin guard area. The excess puffy material which overlaps the zipper can get snagged really easily. This photo shows how the snagging can cause it to wear away the material.
The photo of the actual zipper snag is in the review above.
I just got my alpha sv jacket last week but had problems with using the zipper when it is by the chin/mouth area. It seems that the zipper gets caught on the fabric quite easily near that area. This is probably because there is excess material that almost overlaps the zipper.
I got a replacement sent to me and it also had that problem. This is quite frustrating because it gets caught quite easily. The only way around it is to slowly pull the zipper up and make sure the two slides of the zipper line up.
Do any of you have this problem and is this common? Someone from moosejaw also reviewed it and had the same problem: http://www.moosejaw.com/outdoors/products/ArcteryxAlphaSVJacketFall2009-Mens.html
Thanks for the info. I don't think it has to do with hanging it a certain way because it doesn't affect how puffy the material is by the chin guard. If there is excess material (by like 2-3 centimeters) it will get too close to the zip. So unless you pull the zipper at a certain angle, it gets caught.
Hi, I just picked up a Titanium Alpha SV and did not notice this problem. I just got it a week ago so other than quickly trying it on, it went in the closest. I just dragged it out and took a picture of how i hang it. I hang 90% of my outerwear with the collars open like in the pict. I dont know if this helps or not, but it just makes the collar more comfortable for me as it keeps the front of the collar off my neck unless it is fully zipped.
I have only used my Alpha SV for a couple of week, but am already falling in love with the jacket. A first glance might have you think that that there are few differences, if any, with the cheaper Arc'teryx models, or other comparable brands. The problem when buying hard shells is that it's not the bells and whistles that separate good ones from bad- all have 3-layer GoreTex fabric, a hood, similar zippers, etc. No the big difference is in details and trade-offs. How well does the hood work in high winds and sleet? Does the pockets make any sense with a backpack? with a harness? Can you reach and adjust the pit zippers? Such details are very hard to assess in the store but makes a significant difference on the mountain. With Alpha SV, it feels like Arc'teryx have found a great tradeoff between simplicity and functionality. The hood is work great in high winds. The cut fits really well, both with a thick fleece under, and with only base layer. The pockets could be a bit bigger perhaps- you can put shell gloves there but not big mittens. This jacket should also mainly be used with Bib's if you are going for the winter mountain, while it's a bit on the short side. Most details that makes a shell a great shell are hard to describe. It's more like you put it on and you feel like you have come home. That's how the Alpha is.
Theta AR or Alpha SV? I want a atletic jacket, but not to short. Does the theta fit as well as the Alpha? How much longer is the Theta compare to the Alpha? Kirk.
Elejaces switched the jackets. The Theta AR is more athletically cut than the Alpha SV. The Alpha has a longer collar. The Theta has a longer tail. Easy mistake.
The Alpha is definetly cut more "athletically" than the Theta, but they are definetely not snug, there is room to layer. The Theta has a collared neck, the alpha does not, so it depends on your preference. Finally, the Alpha is designed to be used with a harness, so the pocket placement is a bit different and it also covers your butt a bit more. I have a slight preference for the Alpha. I'd say the Alpha is about 1/2 to 1 inch longer on the back. I hope this helps.
Alright, I don't own a brand new model; in fact, I have had my Alpha SV since 1999. It has been up peaks in Nepal three times, shipwrecked on an island in the Strait of Magellen in Patagonia, to Yosemite, Zion, Rainer, Hood, and all over the United States, climbing and hiking and getting abused. It has at least 400 ski days on it and has been stuffed and un-stuffed an incalculable number of times. The zippers are still fine and functional. All of the moving parts are fine and functional. The DWR finish has been touched up about once a year with that washing machine stuff that is so expensive, but it is still super waterproof. I have never owned a piece of clothing that was so tightly constructed - it is what converted me to Arcteryx, and what keeps me coming back. It is pricey, but I bought it nine years ago! If I had gone with a lesser brand I might have had to replace it twice by now. Do yourself a favor...work an extra shift or two, sell some plasma, forgo buying that boxed set of Madonna CDs -- buy this jacket!
The SV is somewhat thicker weight material and thus designed for more severe (SV) conditions. The LT is made for lightweight enthusiasts, though still quite tuff (I have one). THe length should be similar between the too. Both the SV and LT are strictly hardshells with no insulation (though they stop cold wind like noneother). The fission is insulated.
I bought a Medium. My dimensions are 5'8", 170lb, 40" chest.
All the positive reviews for the Arc'teryx Alpha SV are completely true. From my experience, what distinguishes this from other hard shells is the face fabric and also the fit. However, no one so far has mentioned that there is also a flaw in the zipper design.
The face fabric is superb. Since Arc'teryx designs and manufactures their own face fabrics, the durability and uniqueness of their face fabric is second to none. When it comes to face fabrics, they are the king of hard shells...bar none. The weaving is so tight and the denier of the threads make the fabric so burly. Due to the density of the threads, it almost looks like the fabric is not woven, but is like a laminate floor. I haven't seen another jacket out there with a face fabric that is so cool and unique.
The fit and articulation of this jacket makes it feel like you've got no shell on at all. There is freedom of movement in ALL directions, whereas other jackets out there restrict you and can feel the fabric trying to move with you. The length of this jacket for me was great. It's also very roomy but does not at all appear to be baggy.
With all the positive things said, there is a negative point of this jacket. I've already mentioned this before in a previous post/question. The chin guard material (on the left collar) is puffy. As such, that puffy material actually can overlap the main zipper and cause the zipper to get stuck. This is REALLY annoying particularly when you don't have two hands to fix the problem. Now this doesn't happen ALL the time, but quite frequently if you zip it up at a certain angle.Someone else on Moosejaw also mentioned this problem (http://www.moosejaw.com/outdoors/products/ArcteryxAlphaSVJacketFall2009-Mens.html)
EDIT: It turns out that this is a known issue from the manufacturer. They had production issues with the old Titanium color. It seems that BC's batch of Titaniums are from this production run.
I don't know if this was just the batch of jackets that BC carries or if it is a design issue. I got 2 other jackets from BC and they exhibited the same problem. I went to my local store and NONE of their jackets had that issue. The material was not as puffy as BC's jackets.
In any case, I will take off 1 star from this jacket because this is such a fundamental and functional problem. Whether or not this is Arc'teryx or BC's problem, I'm just warning you about this.
Other than this, this is definitely the best jackets for winter use compared to other ones I have reviews. (You can check out my postings).
Can this jacket be used in all-season weather? I plan on using it for rainy summers instead of buying another shell which is lighter weight and less durable.
Does the all-around thicker material of the SV jackets reduce breathability compared to the AR or LT jackets (which use thick and thin materials on the jacket)?
The Arc'teryx Alpha SV is a superb all-year jacket. The breathability difference between the AR and LT version is minimal, and almost un-noticeable. For a jacket you want to use hard for years, the Alpha SV can't be beat.
I have an older model of this jacket that has Gore-Tex XCR. I put through the paces over the past year, including 40 days of snowboarding, hiking, biking, camping, just chilling, and much more. It has seen temps way below zero and winds up past 60mph and just keeps on rockin'. This is the best jacket ever! The tough fabric has taken a ton of abuse, yet barely shows any sign of wear at all. The hood is freaking awesome. It covers any helmet, is easily adjustable, and keeps your head very warm on those cold winter days hiking gusty ridges in the Colorado Rockies. The water-tight zips are holding up really well, still almost new looking. I love the way Arc'teryx jackets fit and their construction and attention to detail is unrivaled by other US brand. I plan on having this jacket for at least a decade or more!
Color question on titanium color. Full picture seems to be single color (titanium), but detail view is showing mainly titanium color but above the should seems darker grey. Would you please tell me which one is the correct one?
I received this shell as a birthday gift and love it! Extremely waterproof and just as windproof as my MH windstopper soft shell. I have warn this in the heaviest rain fishing and not a drip got in. The Blue is very blue, but not a baby blue color. Would recommend this shell to anyone who wants a jacket that you wont have to worry about replacing for a very long time!
I'm 5'11 and weigh 168; I do like a good amt of arm length but don't wanna go large if I really truly shouldn't and can't find one to try on? any suggestions towards a med/large Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket - Men's?
Buy a medium in the Arc'teryx Alpha SV jacket. This jacket is cut for climbing hence, the sleeves are cut longer than any other brands. It also has gusseted underarms so the hems don't creep up your arm, nor the hem up your waist. I have your same measurements and the Med. is perfect.
gear member said he weighed, 150lbs and was 5'6'' he wore a large and could do a layer or two, he suggested I go with a large, after check Arc's.com website's sizing charts I will happily buy the large;)
Looking forward to an epic '09/'10 year. I'll be spending the first half in Vail, CO, and the second half/first part of '10 in Costa Rica baby!
I bought one of these last year, and it is hands down the best technical shell I have ever owned. It is totally wind-proof, and I have never had the inside of the jacket get damp or clammy, even on the shoulders under pack straps where all my other shells have failed. After two seasons it still is totally water-proof without any treatment. In foul weather having one of these is liking being in my own tent, and with a good baselayer and insulating layer I have not been cold even in some really bad weather. And, unlike several other jackets it has not torn or marred despite several run ins with branches and rocks. A bit expensive, but worth the money.
Is the inner pocket waterproof? I need to find a good shell that has a completely secure/waterproof pocket for my iphone. Last winter I ruined a phone with it in a chest pocket when it became soaked from my own perspiration. Nothing got in from the outside, but the pocket wasn't protected from the inside-out. Any idea if there is a pocket suitable on this jacket for an electronic device?
Never trust a "waterproof" zipper!!! They are weather resistant but do leak during extensive rain. I'd use a ziplock plastic cover for any electronics if there's a chance of rain.
The inside pockets arent waterproof on this jacket, but im sure the pocket on the left sleeve would be perfect for an iphone. it will be it dry for sure because its surrounded by gore-tex and has a waterproof zipper on it.
This jacket will be overkill for most, and was made for the most demanding of athletes and conditions. That does mean that it will easily deflect rain and almost anything nature or you can throw at it. It is heavier than the Alpha LT and Beta LT, so question how much you will abuse it. The new LT fabric will be fine for 99.9% of people. Rest assured, this jacket will look new for nigh upon a decade of use, due to the quality of the fabric and construction. When looking to buy, ask yourself if you want to be able to stow the hood, if you use your pockets for your hands (then don't get this), and if you want the low back (for coverage) and high front (for a climbing harness). The Theta and Beta are decidedly more practical for most. But this jacket is like a WRX STi...not practical for most, but still decidedly badass.
If i was to try on a soft shell, say the Venta AR for example, or any of them really will that size give me good guidance as to which size I should get in a technical shell? We only have soft shells here at the moment so i will have to buy one online somewhere.
I do a lot of backcountry skiing in Whistler and interior BC and i can't think of a better jacket to use. The jacket keeps you completely comfortable and shielded from the environemnt even when the conditions are deteriorating . Breathes exceptionally well and has a hood that you can ski with while having it up.
Silly question I know.. I'm 6'2 and 180pounds.. I'm thinking a large? Just to be safe. Though i fit comfortably and snugly into size small insulated Columbia parkas like the Lhotse Mountain II. I really have no idea :/ Thanks in advance
There is no question that this jacket is the best of the best: fit, design details, materials, performance, and aesthetic are all of the highest caliber. In my opinion, it is literally perfect -- I can't think of a way to improve it. However, I think paying this much for a shell is not worth it for most people; while I love my SV, I am still unsure of whether or not it was worth the heavy dough. This thing sure is nice though... got the bibs too and they're just as perfect as this jacket.
The haglofs' like this one list a 'rollaway hood'. The arcteryx's w fixed hoods don't, but they look almost the same. Could you 'roll it away' just like the spitz or is there some difference?
I've had this jacket since 2004 and when I'm skiing in it I just roll the hood away and cinch the draw cords around the hood to create a nice seal around my neck to keep the warmth in and the snow out - so yes you can is I think the answer to your question. (However when I'm hiking in the jacket I just let the hood sit flat as I don't need such a good seal.)
Ive had this jacket for quite some time and i just tried to roll it up to see how it works and its kind of uncomfortable. but, it is possible to roll it up and kind of tuck in into the jacket, but comfort-wise, i wouldn't recommend it.
This jacket costs a friggin' ton of bill, but when all my bodies are soaking wet and whining I'm comfy and good to go. Every aspect of this jacket is performance oriented. This jacket will take a pounding and not let a drop of water in. Build quality is second to none and it looks amazing. The articulated shoulders and elbow move with my body perfectly and it never binds. They have perfectly balanced function, simplicity and toughness.
My jacket is made in Canada and the quality looks the same as the China made ones. But honestly the Gore-Tex material has probobly been made in China for a while.
Just to clarify, this is Canadian built. Arc'teryx has factories in many countries, and it's mostly based on where the textiles are manufactured, and which factories can attain the quality that Arc'teryx requires. They are still making many products in Canada (and will continue to do so), but realistically, there is absolutely no difference in quality based on country of manufacture (the warranty return rates have remained below 1%).The perception that Chinese built always equals low quality is naive.
I'm no expert, but I just read an article about the company in a german outdoor magazine. Arc'teryx does have manifacturing in China, but they've tried to minimise the work done outside of Kanada to simpler, easier production steps. The complicated, important-to-quality work is still done in Kanada. Also, the factories in china that handle Arc'teryx products don't work for anybody else, as to keep thier industry secrets safer. I suppose that would insure a relatively higher level of quality too.
No more Arceryx for me.if they outsource i might as well by one of the other made in some where in Asia brands. I bought Arcteryx for quality but also because they where made in Canada. Since it was made in Canada it justified the high price.but if they outsource and do not lower the price the whole company is a joke to me
Everything is made in China now. By the looks of my Canadian built jacket next to a current China built jacket I wouldn't be concerned the build quality looks exactly the same.
All Arc'teryx garments will be made in China from here on out. It is a factory that Arc'teryx OWNS and operates to the same standards as Vancouver, they have decided to dedicate Vancouver to the AC^2 line, Bora line of packs, with very limited, if any clothing manufacture. I wouldn't fault the Bird for it, the price isn't because it's Canadian, it's because to make a coat like this it requires a lot of money in both materials and in the quality of work to make one last a lifetime.
this is just an addition to the review i posted below - the pockets on this thing are PERFECT. they are huge, knife, camera, lighter, snacks, glove liners, sun screen all fit perfectly well. they are super easy to get into even with a pack. i've never used pockets as much as i do with this shell.
The test results I've seen on eVent vs. gore pro-shell show that the breathablility on eVent is better initially, but since it doesn't have a protective layer on the membrane, regular use reduces this to lower levels pretty quickly. Also, vapor transfer is really the important thing to pay attention to. (breathability=air moving through the membrane; vapor transfer=sweat dissipating and moving through)Gore has better vapor transfer. Dont forget to take face fabric into account as that's your first level of protection.
event is totally waterproof and super extremely breathable, way more than gore tex (i want to say like 200 times more breathable, but i forgot the exact number)...its ultralight, and probably the only bad thing is that its paper thin and is not very durable, thats where Gore-Tex Pro shell excells, its bombproof, super durable
I decided to go for the xcr (last year's version) of the Alpha SV just because the price was $300 (yes, $300) less. Beautiful jacket. I know there's some small differences (0ther than the obvious difference between gore xcr and gore pro), but they just weren't worth the difference in price to me. I tried on both and if anyone is wondering, the older version of this jacket does fit slightly larger. I find that the cut is such that you could fit a down jacket/vest under no problem, but you wouldn't feel awkward when wearing one over top either. The cut comes in at the waist and leaves a bit more room across the chest, shoulders and arms. Great jacket - completely waterproof and warm under strong winds. I will be taking this to the Himalayas this fall and will write an updated review at that time. Love the look, love the features though.
I've read the reviews about this jacket here and elsewhere. All give it a thumbs up. One such review mentioned that it is Teflon coated on the inside. Just wondering if the Teflon coating is actually on the outside? Is there even a Teflon coating and, if so, will it need a reapplication of said Teflon after some time (just like regular waterproofing)?
Gore-tex IS Teflon. Or rather, polytetrafluoroethylene. Which is the chemical name for Teflon. So ya, there's "teflon," but it's a laminate (a sheet) and not a coating (sprayed or applied on). Other than that, there's the DWR applied to the outside, and eventually, that WILL need to be refreshed. Arc'teryx does well to use a pretty high quality DWR combined with high quality fabrics that have natural water resistance due to the tightness of their weave.
FYI, the Beta LT is a completely BADASS jacket, being almost as strong as the hardiest fabric in the Alpha, but weighing WAY less. 320N pro shell is the best overall fabric in the line, and is also in evidence on the Alpha LT. 3 layer protection for less than an OUNCE more than the Alpha SL (paclite). AND pitzips...
The Beta LT is lighter and has a less durable exterior fabric than the Alpha SV. Also, the Alpha SV has a fixed hood, while the hood on the Beta LT is stowable. The Alpha SV is longer than the Beta LT as well.
I have had this jacket for three years and absolutely swear by it. This jacket has kept the wind, rain, snow, and ice off me at altitudes of up to 21k. It is bulletproof. The water proof sippers are tough as nails but easy to use. The hood goes over my helmet with no problem but does not interfere with my headlamp. There are pockets were they need to be and none that serve no purpose. I especially like the little shoulder pocket where I keep my lip gloss and map. Basically nothing gets that don't want in. This is a solid, tough, lightweight shell that, when used in conjunction with your other two layers, will do its part to keep you high and dry. Sure, its wicked expensive, but so aren't the medical bills when you use cheap stuff at extreme altitude and in extreme weather.
Unless you're being deployed to Afghanistan, this jacket is all the bomb proof you'll ever need. By far the burliest shell I have ever seen. Excellent breathability (and by mountaineer's standards I'm a fatty who sweats way too much). It's cut pretty big so you can definitely layer underneath it. I'm 6 foot, 215 pounds and wear the XL comfortably over all my layers.
The hood is excellent with a helmet, but a little awkward without one... the reality is that if you need this jacket, you generally need your brain bucket too, so it's not a big deal.
It would be nice if it packed down a little smaller, but it's not like it's overly bulky.
This thing has been to the top of a few 14ers in Colorado with me and it held up it's end of the bargain. An awesome feature for climbing is the foam in the hem to stop it from riding up under your harness.
I am really interested in this jacket the only problem there is not any place around here to try one on. I am 5'8'' and 160 lbs. my arms are shorter so I was thinking a small. I would want to be able to wear a mid weight fleece under is for cold days.
The arc'teryx sizing chart is pretty accurate, I'd take some measurements and go from there. One thing to keep in mind is though arc'teryx is relatively true to size their line has an "athletic" fit, so it fits people on the slender side of the spectrum.
This is honestly the best G-T jacket I have ever own. It is almost similar to the old model because of the hemlock. This keeps the jacket from lifting out of the harness while climbing. (The old one is just as good) Bottom line I'm completely satisfied. I have own them all, name if I have it or had it. This is the BEST site for softgoods.
Another size question.I am 5,9 tall and my weight is 196lb.What size should i get?I would like to fit at least one layer with fleece under it.I use size L i Norrøna but i have heard that Arcteryx are a bit big in sizesSo should i go M or L ?
Just like I wrote to to the SV bib: I don't think it gets any better than this jacket. You can adjust the hood in three different ways so it stays in place in high winds. It is very strong and comfortable. I had no problem with the length, and it was easy to operate th underarm zippers with a backpack on.
9 years ago I was a climbing bum working in a retail shop. I needed a new shell. I scrimped and saved and finally was ale to shell out for the Alpha SV. I have spend no less than 300 - 600 days in it. I work outside and foul weather follows me. Today this jacket is just as tough as the day it arrived. The zippers are perfect, the gore-tex breaths great (the new model works even better as it has a newer type of gore-tex), the bungies that cinch the hood and waist are also perfect. Knowing all of the abuse I have put this coat through I can not beleive how good it looks and functions. I expect it will last another 9 years and then if it needs replacing I will gladly shell out for the new coat from the bird. It might be costly, but it will last you forever and the fit is amazing.
I'm trying to decide between two shells. This jacket (with GoreTex Pro) and the older version of this jacket (with XCR Gore). I note about 50 grams difference and some changes with the cinches etc, but are there any other major differences in terms of quality? I can get the XCR version for 299 vs 599 for this jacket which is making me lean more towards the older version. Thoughts?
The newer model with the Pro Shell has Micro Grid Backer, which supposedly increases the breathability and internal abrasion resistance. I have the last version made with XCR and i think its an amazing jacket. I used it for everything: snowboarding, skiing, hiking, biking, campus use, etc. And for some reason the description above says "Arc'teryx added Underarm zips for ventilation in mellow conditions, so you don't overheat while breaking trail in two feet of new snow", but my older model has Pit Zips that are huge, so i dont know why thats there. Personally, i would save the money and go with the older version, but if you want increase breathability go with the new version.
Got the old gore-tex XCR model. Simple design, no useless things. Very durable. Fits perfectly, allows freedom of movements. Great protection, hood is amazing and i like the point it makes one with the jacket. I enjoy wearing it in snow storms. The only down point is price.
Yes from what I understand the pro is the best that you can get as far as water proof and the shell will be the company that the pro is on the top they sell. the performance is very good also I own one and really cant see why you would pay and extra 1-200, it is usually what they jumpbut think its all a marketing thing .-----------Gore-Tex Pro Shell is Gore's newest 3-ply version of their Gore membrane. The main thing that distiguishes it from other Gore products is the lining material. The "Gore-tex Performance" material has a Tricot third layer, similar to the no-see-um mesh on a quality tent. The ProShell has a much more durable and lighter weight material for used as it's third layer to give the jacket greater packability, lighter weight, less bulk when on, and more abrasion resistance from inside the jacket. There is no difference in breathability or waterproofness between the two however. Both Performance and ProShell use the exact same membrane (its essentially Gore-tex XCR). If you want more breathability, I would seriously look into an eVent shell. Westcomb shells have quality on par with ArcTeryx and in some cases surpasses it. When eVent is utilized and produced correctly (Westcomb has patented processes to create similar durability using eVent as comparable Gore-tex jackets) you will get similar durability performance, but 30-200 times more breathability (this is according to Army tests performed on gore-tex and event materials). The question is do you want to sweat or not while wearing your $600 shell? This is incredibly significant.
i bought the alpha sv this year and skied in it for two weeks,nothing seems to get through this sucker,rain nor wind,the helmet compatible hood is so adjustable that you can hide every bit of your face with a pair of goggles on,i also have a pair of arcteryx bibs,to keep the snow out as there is no snow skirt,this is not a problem so long as you research compatible items to wear with this jacket.i have a spyder vail jacket and it doesn't come close,and there a lot more money. the only jacket i have that comes close is a 10year old phoenix. not made anymore though!
Besides the length, what's the difference between the alpha sv and the theta sv? Also, I am 6'0" 210lb and would like to wear a thick fleece or down sweater under this. What size do you recommend?
James Jones,Arc'terx is my favorite jacket line. So Alpha Theta decision time besides the length.Both jackets are made of the same material and will give you the same level of protection. Other key features they both have is helmet compatible hoods and pit zippers. Alpha: pocket on left bicep, 2 internal pockets, 2 chest pockets, Laminated quick dry chin guard,Theta: stowable hood, 1 internal pocket, 2 chest pockets + 2 hand pockets, Based off your size and weight I would recommend a L (I am not that confident with my sizing suggestion YMMV). My friend is 6"1 165" and can fit a small around his torso but needs at least a medium for the sleeve length. Do you know your suit size? or chest size? Do you know your ape index? Mahalo, Sumo
I have an older version of this jacket (from 2004) and it's fantastic... as it should be for the price. Holy shnikees this thing is expensive at retail! I got mine on eBay for less than half the original cost, but if you are rolling in the dough (or have a pro deal) this baby is one of the best jackets a lot of money can buy. Mine has been used in all sorts of conditions, the most memorable of which was a deluge in the Yosemite backcountry. It poured the entire day and this jacket kept my (at least upper) body dry. It has lost some of the outer layer water resistance (i.e., beading), but the Gore Tex is steadfast as ever. The only reason I'm giving this jacket 4 stars is because of the cost. Arc'teryx stuff is great, but you can get excellent, expedition-quality, fully-featured shells from other companies a lot less.
Im not sure about the length compared to the Sidewinder AR but i do know that the Alpha SV is longer in the back. This jacket has the "Drop Back Hem" which obviously dropped further down than the front of the jacket. its a pretty sweet addition in my opinion.
Incredible. There is no substitute for this jacket. None exists. Made in Canada by people who love to ski, are paid living wages and not a profit center for some greedy fat cats using sweatshop labor in China. For our society to survive we have to start giving our money to companies that provide jobs at home. This means never shopping at "Great" Wal Mart as everything there is made in China.
This jacket is the best. Be stoked in knowing you paid for someones kid to live in a decent home in Canada. Arcteryx have the best customer service in the business, better than Yvonne himself at Patagonia as they come a close second, however use sweat shop labor. Vote with your dollars. I did and I am stoked.
Arcteryx makes nearly all of their outerwear in China now. You voted with your dollars for a company that is owned by Salomon that uses, as you put it, sweatshop labor.
better fabric, construction and design. It's a shell, and as such doesn't offer much warmth by itself but with appropriate layers you will be comfortable.It blocks 100 percent of wind, which is essential for cutting out cold drafts.
The Alpha SV is by far the best three layer shell ever made! I am on my second shell in 8 years only because my first one had a small zipper issue and when sent back to Arcteryx they were unable to repair it, however they were gracious enough to send a brand new jacket in its place. This jacket has acted as functional summer rain gear from the Bahamas to the South rim of the Grand Canyon. In the winter it has braved -30 temps with howling 40 mph winds without flinching. It slips through the trees on the slopes like an egg off a heavily greased Teflon pan, and functionally from day to day it has not failed, no matter what mother nature has tossed its way. If there is only two items of gear you can take with you in the end, the Alpha SV jacket and a pair of matching bibs.
I think that a medium should work fine for you. I'm 6" 190lbs. and a large gives me enough room to layer comfortably. The key thing with this jacket is the arm length, you want to have a little extra room so that when you start adding layers it does not restrict your movement.
I only have two ski days in this so far but both days it was dumping and windy as a mother. I was dry and because the jacket is so adjustable I didn't have any snow get under it even in Utah powder crashes. My favorite part about this jacket is the hood, it's adjustable in 4 different areas so I was able to get it exactly how I wanted it, even in gloves. It also has a mini powder skirt/waist cinch that I found helpful in keeping the powder out. And FYI it was made in Canada. I'm 5-10 165, got the medium and it fits like a glove with plenty of room for layering. I got the Titanium color and am very pleased with the look of this jacket as well.
The drop back hem really does cover your rear pretty well. The SV is longer than models like the Beta AR, but not quite as long as the Theta AR. The front is near beltbuckle length, if not maybe an inch below. Kind of depends on your torso length.
As a winter mounaineering shell it holds up well to the high winds and blowing snow. However this is basically a no frills light 3 layer goretex shell. Key spots such as the elbows and skirt regions could be reinforced more for adding protection when vertical climbing/sliding or even sitting. It would be nice if there were internal fasteners at the end of each sleeve for your lining to attach to. I would also increase the width of the velcro on the wrist by 50% for added support and protection. A well built shell overall, could use a few enhancements.
The Theta has a collar "inside" the hood, so it is tighter around the neck. The Alpha has plenty of room around the neck, but can be cinched down a bit.(by pulling the hood tight around the neck)
I am considering ordering the Alpha SV. I am unable to try one one locally. I have tried on the Theta AR and found the L to be a little small and the XL to be a little too large. How does the Alpha SV fit compare to the Theta AR?
The Alpha SV is a GREAT jacket but Arcteryx is adding to its line this fall 2008 a new Gamma SV softshell. This jacket has a hood built in on its Polartec body as well as Schoeller arm panels. Also look for the Venta SV, also a hoodie, this one is made with GoreTex Windstopper and is GoreTex waterproofed. This is Arcteryx's entry into the market. It feels like a softshell, functions like a hardshell. Arcteryx also has two more, the Kappa SV and the ultimate jacket- the $700 Fission SL. The Kappa is a windstopper with primaloft sport insulation while the Fission is a full GoreTex shell melded with Arcteryx's proprietary Thermatech monofilament insulation. Each fiber on the hollow Thermatech filament is coated with DWR to maximize life and loft from the product. I have great confidence in this site to obtain these items; therefore, I am going to put off Alpha SV and wait for the Fall 2008 line. The Alpha SV will remain a classic so if and when it goes on "sale" I will definitely grab one - In the meanwhile, GO FOR IT!!!!
The Alpha SV has what is termed a "storm hood". As far as I know, this means that the hood and body are all one continuous piece. I have the gamma mx hoody, which has a similar design. It can be zipped up all the way, but at times the hood will draw the chin area back (slightly irritating to the neck, but minor) if the hood is not over your head but instead hanging behind you. The Theta AR hood is attached to the neck of the body, but will 'drop back' and allow you to zip up the body of the jacket without the hood drawing the chin area back and against your neck/chin (if it is not in use). That's the best way I know to describe it. If you compare the photos you'll see the difference. As far as performance and functionality go, both are helmet compatible, neither is able to be rolled-away/stowed. Other than that, if anyone else has additional info - please add.
On June 11, 2008, I wrote a blurb about this jacket and I just want to say that I have stopped procrastinating and "FINALLY" took the plunge! I have recently received TNF Vanqiush and Mammatus jackets. I also have the Arc't-s Scorpion, Theta AR, Beta AR, Beta SL. And I also have Van's Kento-(my favorite) and the Norrona's Narvik Comfortweld Shell. The Alpha SV has some pretty stiff, border-lined competiveness, competition, and some better products to adknowledge with, but, if you set the standards everyone else will bound to catch up with you sooner or later; and besides that,this was a desired, "got-to-have-one-for-myself" jacket. There is no need for my to explain the expectations, details, values, and it's ratings, because the rest of you gearheads, and backcountry, had said it all. This Jacket will be like the Grandfather of my collection!
That's the great thing about the Alpha SV. Although it's one of the toughest jackets made, it's still relatively light due to materials and construction. It will pack down the same as a Theta AR, and weight difference in nominal.
Jenn, this jacket IS a shell, in that it doesn't have insulation built in to it. Warmth is attained by layering fleece under according to the level of warmth you need.
I'm trying to decide between this and the Theta AR. It seems like the Alpha SV is a burlier shell, but the weight is the same as the Theta. Does anyone know why the alpha is recommended for more "severe" conditions over the theta, or why the theta may be better for all-around use?
The Theta AR uses reinforcements on high wear areas, the Alpha SV is made using the more durable fabric, throughout. The cut on the Alpha is more trim and will stay flat in the front because the way the waist cinch is anchored. the Theta AR is a longer cut, and may be more versatile as an everyday jacket because of the fuller cut (still athletic)
How abrasive resistance is this shell? I'm mean I've slid a long ways on some nasty ice and I don't want it getting worn through. My old solstice ceramic material was super, would this hold up in a similar manner? (I don't see additional reinforments on the elbows.)
Its going to be a hardcore jacket. I have the sidewinder SV and it stands up to some treatment. Sorry for the short response plane is leaving to Manis!The Alpha SV is made using some of the most abrasion resistant face fabrics, and the whole jacket uses this fabric, not just the high wear areas, so you can be sure it will hold up better than any other jacket out there. It will outlast the Solstice you had, and probably weighs about half. Not to mention the fit will be much less boxy.
I currently own the Theta AR. It's a Few years old now and my go to jacket in my large arsenal. I have been eye balling the the alpha SV for a couple years. My only concern is the fit. I am 6'4 275lbs and the XXL theta fits me perfect. How does the fit compare between the Theta AR and the Alpha SV? Thanks
i have the alpha sv in size XXL i am 6'3" and have a 46" chest,i also weigh 230 lbs there is loads of room in this jacket,i tried it before i bought to make sure i could get 3 or 4 layers underneath and theres no problem,hope this helps. ATB Neil
how would you rate this jacket, or others like it for snowboarding ?I'm shopping for a jacket for snowboarding, but i'm not really liking the options i'm seeing, everything is just too baggy for me!!
This is high-end. It doesn't get much better. This isn't exactly the "snowboarder" style, but it will function very well. Be careful though, this is a shell, not much for insulation. You will need under layers. Also, no powder skirt.I have an older model of this jacket that i used for all of my days snowboarding last season. Like mike said, its not "snowboarder" steezy style at all, but its great for keeping weather out no matter what. To layer, i wear a soft shell underneath and then some other things, so thats what i would recommend to you. it does have a waist adjustment that you could toy with into a make-shift powder skirt if need be, but ive never had the problem of powder going up this jacket.
"SV" stands for severe weather. The AR features one slanted chest zipper while the SV has 2 chest zips that are vertical on either side of the zipper. The "AR" stands for all-around. This features top fabric from the SV and bottom fabric from their LT jackets (lightweight). SV jackets are less for all activities like skiing and hiking and are more centralized around ascents,or ice climbing-uses really durable fabric.
The hemlock is a small foamy pad that fits around the waist of the jacket. It works by adding just enough bulk around the waist that it doesn't slide up through the harness. This works if the jacket fits you perfectly. If you have a long torso you may just want to go with a Theta SV, which is cut a little longer.
Best Uses.I know this jacket is a moutaineering/alpine climbing jacket, but I was wondering if anyone has spent a lot of time skiing with it? Backcountry and in-bounds. Let me know you thoughts... Also, where is this model currently manufactured? China or Canada?
I own the Spring 08 model, and it is made in Canada. I have done climbing, mountaineering, and skiing (New England backcountry and Colorado in-bounds) with it. It is the best jacket I have used for all of these activities, including skiing. However, it isn't designed specifically for skiing, like the Sidewinder and others, so it doesn't have the ski-specific feature of a snowskirt. This isn't a problem if you get the Alpha SV bib, too. Lastly, it has plenty of room for layers, but those who aren't trim will find it a snug fit. Sizing up won't help much in this case. Hope this helps answer your question.
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