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Description

The one everyone wants.

Simple, functional, durable, and affordable—the Omega Pacific Jake Carabiner has become one of the most popular belay 'biners available. The unique offset gate increase the Jake Carabiner's clearance, so you can fill it up at a hanging belay without worry. Go to any crag and you'll see a smattering of these Omega Pacific carabiners.

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Omega Pacific Jake Carabiner

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Aaron Tam

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I like this carabiner because it's easy to use. When you open the carabiner, it doesn't open straight back but slightly diagonal. This feature makes it easier to hook or unhook your rope or harness without getting caught in between climbs. I would recommend this product if you want a user friendly carabiner.

5 5

Love this

  • Gender: Female
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used this as my primary biner for rock climbing, ice climbing, canyoning and other rappels for years.. it's easy to use even when in cold or wet conditions and I've always felt safe with it? I'm online today buying a second as a backup in case anything should ever happen to it!

5 5

Quick Lock is GREAT!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love this auto-locking 'biner so much. This was bought to replace an old one that has seen a LOT of usage and unfortunately wore out, but I had no problem buying another one (the old one was over 15 years old). I mainly use this for belaying indoors because it's quick and easy. The auto-locking aspect is great, but always make sure that you still check to make sure that it's locked. The gate opens on a diagonal so it opens nice and wide. I we definitely recommend this 'biner.

5 5

Awesome Locker!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

If you are looking for a good locking biner the Jake. is the one for you! I have the screw gate version of this and I love it. When I first tried it out I noticed that the gate doesn't open straight in like normal, it actually swings open at an angle so that when the gate is fully opened it doesn't hit the spine of the biner, and can actually swing open further, allowing for a wider opening and easier clipping and unclipping than your average full size locker. This thing is awesome, definitely check it out.

4 5

Twisted

The Jake is a light aluminum biner with good capacity and a wide gate. The gate opens easily with one hand even with gloves. There is a mention that the gate came open in another users review. I use this only for attaching a prussic to a trolley system for locking off in rescues so there is no real load involved. For that it is great. I have no question when looking at it that the gate is closed and locked. The gate does have an offset which you can see in this picture. I used them on a climbing tower training and we thought the biner had been compromised due to the twist... really spooky to see the first time but does add clearance.

Twisted
2 5

Good but not confident

I want to like this 'biner. The offset creates a much larger gate opening which comes in handy. The auto-lock is very simple to operate one-handed and works smoothly, too easy and smooth in fact.

I used this biner as my belay locker for indoor climbs mostly. That was until one day as I went to lower my partner, I noticed the biner had unlocked itself and the grigri (which was on a rapide) had nearly come out of the carabiner. Luckily the rapide caught on the gate hook, had the Jake used a keylock design the grigri would have come completely loose.

I was anchored into a daisy chain, but not the end, a practice I no longer follow due to this incident. What happened was that the excess daisy chain must have caught the locking sleeve and rotated it so that the gate could open. Part of this was my poor technique, but it is also an issue with the auto-lock having no extra resistance to unlock (like a ball lock design or an auto-lock that needs to be pulled up/down before twisted).

After this incident I've switched over to a standard screw-lock design (petzl williams since that's what was at the gym that day) and have had no issues. I would not feel confident ever using this 'biner as a primary locker because I don't trust the auto-lock. I would say it's about halfway between a normal biner and a normal locker. As such, due to it's weight I never use it anymore but in a pinch would use it in a redundant setup with another biner (either locking or not).

Responded on

Update: It now appears that OP has begun offering (not sure if it will fully replace) a quick lock option that has a notch. This requires you to pull the locking sleeve down then twist to open, as opposed to just twisting. This seems to be a far safer design and addresses all the issues that I have mentioned above (just saw one at the local hiking shack today). Should be worth looking into because of all the other benefits of this locker.

5 5

Great Belay and Anchor Biner!

I love this thing for both belay and anchors. The offset action of the gate is a little strange at first but I came to love it after not long. The sleeve on the screw lock is great. There are nice and deep grooves providing good traction to loosen and tighten the sleeve when wearing gloves. Great product! It is on the larger side, but that is not an issue.

2 5

jake is jack

Don't like them.... of ALL of my lockers i've used (am using) over the past 8 years of climbing - THIS is the only one that has given me trouble. i have 3 of them... 1 is an auto-locker - no problem with that one... the other 2, screw locks... problems.

1 of them the e-clip that keeps the screw-lock from falling too low on the biner body, fell off. It's a pain when the screw lock jams on the biner body.

the other consistently gets jammed from falling on it. the ONLY think i can figure is that when falling on the biner... it flexes the biner body thereby misaligning (i.e. jamming) the screw-lock threads when the gate is locked shut. I never tighten the lock ... just turn it to where it stops. no other biner i have has ever done this.... only the jake. and i've seen OTHER jakes do it as well.

the jake is now relegated to carrying my camera on my harness. lol

Responded on

OH one thing though...the gate opening and the fact that it's offset is nice...

Responded on

I was always told/ and do turn screw locks a half turn back after being locked all the way, that way they don't get stuck

5 5

Nice and Big.

exactly what I needed as my primary in the gym, smooth and easy to open.

4 5

Wide gate opening

Never wanted to drop the money on one of these, but picked one up as booty at the top of a rap. I really am intrigued by how wider the gate is than a normal HMS. On the master point of a cordelette, this makes things that much quicker and efficient.

5 5

Best Belay Biner

Definitely my favorite biner out there for the traditional belay devices (not for gri-gri).
The fatter thickness/surface area aids in unbinding belays, smooth rappels and a long life. Also find the offset gate axle handy which allows gate to open wide and swallow a ton of anchor points simultaneously. Best biner for its designed purpose.

5 5

Excellent!

The climbers I belay are much safer with my Jake. The offset twist and lock gate ensure I never absentmindedly have an open gate. You cannot go wrong with Omega Pacific carabiners. Combine the Omegas with the DMM quickdraws and you have near perfection.

5 5

Review Title

Ths is by far my favorite carabiner to use when I climb and rappel. The twist and lock makes it better than the screw locking beaners just because it has a smaller chance of the gate failing because it opens. It is lighter than the steel biners but we have used two of these for over 10 years and have even had them xrayed to check for small cracks. Since they are old we did retire them but we went back and bought the same ones

5 5

Offset gate is great

I know you don't always need that extra 5mm but it is nice to have when you do.