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Project, redpoint, repeat.
Millet's innovative Opposite TRX Climbing Rope has a 9mm dimension on one half and a 10mm dimension on the other for projecting, redpointing, and sending all your sport routes. The 10mm side's increased strength and higher fall rating help you whip off your climbs without a worry, and the 9mm side is perfect when you're looking to on-sight or redpoint (this side will also save your ass if you blow the send). TriAxiale technology raises safety, longevity, and absolute efficiency. Millet's Anti-Friction treatment increases abrasion-resistance against sharp edges and rough rocks. The middle marker makes for easy rappels, and the Anti-Twist Pack uncoils the rope without a problem.
- Backcountry Exclusive
- 9mm and 10mm dimensions in one rope
- TriAxiale braided core
- Anti Friction treatment
- Anti-Twist Pack
- Middle marker
- Item #MIL005E
- Q & A
Great Idea, Lacking Durability
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
This rope is an awesome rope for projecting! Super supple, feels nice and lightweight on the climb, and the switch of 10mm to 9mm is an awesome feature for red points. The center mark is super bold, making rappelling a breeze and the 80m length is great for those of us that love long routes!
The only downside I saw in this rope was that in the couple of weeks I used it, the sheath degraded pretty quickly. It wasn't terrible, but definitely noteworthy.
I've used a lot of different ropes from this company and others. If you need information on climbing ropes, feel free to reach out to me at firstname.lastname@example.org or at 801-204-4680!
Neat idea; not a great rope.
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
See my pic and comments below
Actual Specs for this rope..
This is the backside of the label for this rope. It has the actual specs for the rope...which are inaccurate in the description above and generally not available online (not even on Millet's site as far as I could find). Diameters are 9.2mm and 10.1mm; weights etc...are included. I think this rope is a cool concept...but I do think the choice for making it 50M/30M is a bit odd. 40/40 would have been more logical...or if you just want the 10.1mm on the real "beater" portion...20M (or less) would have made sense. I just unwrapped this rope...but I will do a real review in a few months.
My initial thoughts:
-No Twist Packaging: Smart...can't believe this is not standard. Why would any rope manufacturer not do this?
-Feel: Nice feel...kind of soft(not Sterling soft) but not Mammut stiff. For a new rope (not yet puffed or scuffed)...the "9" (aka 9.2mm) side feels a teeny bit fat for 9.2mm (very subjective...but feels like it to me).
Climbing Magazine - EDITOR'S CHOICE
The rope you bring to the sport crag depends on what phase of the redpointing process youâre in: Toproping and working a project requires a nice fat cord while send attempts are much better with a pleasantly skinny cord. Instead of luggingâand buyingâtwo separate lines, take the Opposite TRX 9/10, which is an 80-meter cord with two different diameters. One end is 50 meters of 9mm thickness, and the other is 30 meters of 10mm thickness, so you can carry one cord for two vastly different purposes. Not only did our testers think this was a genius idea, but they loved the performance of the rope, from toproping in Rumney, New Hampshire, to taking 15-foot falls on Sonic Youth (5.13a) in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Milletâs Triaxiale braided core has been proven in past years as a strong and long-lasting design, and that was no different with the Opposite. Six months and two road-tripping sendbots couldnât get the rope to reveal any durability flaws, and it ran through a variety of belay devices (both tube style and assisted braking) smoothly. Even the changeover point where it goes from 9mm to 10mm was seamless when moving through belay devices and gear. It only comes in an 80-meter version, and at an average of 63 g/m, it weighs in at just over 11 pounds.
Weigh my Rack Video on Millet Opposite
Full video explanation of Millet's opposite rope and Millet Triaxiale ropes
Rock and Ice Review
R&I review of the opposite rope:
Millet Opposite TRX 9/10| $299 | milletusa.com ????
This 80-meter cord is broken into two sections of different diameters: 30 meters are 10mm and 50 meters are 9mm. In theory, this allows a chintzy sport climber like me to weasel two ropes out of one. Work your project?take lots of falls, lower repeatedly?with the thicker side of the rope, while saving the thin side for sending. In practice, the theory proves true. Flipping to the 9mm side allows you an instant advantage since the rope is lighter and glides more easily through the gear. With pitches getting longer, having a light rope for redpointing is becoming more important and this is a light, versatile rope with a nice supple hand. The change in diameter is hardly noticeable as it passes through the device. It?s a dry-treated (hydrophobic) rope, but unlike some brands, the rope?s sheath isn?t so slick that it becomes difficult to control with a Grigri when the rope gets thin.
The Triaxiale technology includes a beefier sheath (in contrast to a thinner sheath sometimes used to create smaller-diameter ropes), a stabilized diameter that Millet says won?t fatten up over time and a unique braided core. Millet divides the core into several braids instead of just one and claims that this Triaxiale Technology adds extra safety.
Subjectively, the eight-fall Opposite handles well, snakes smoothly through biners and delivers a nice, soft catch (maximum impact force of 8.2 kN). At 63 grams per meter, it weighs about the same as a 9.8mm.
One thing I really like about Millet ropes is the anti-twist packaging. Unlike many ropes, which seem to maddeningly twist and knot in snarls that could best even Alexander, the Opposite is packaged so that it is easy to uncoil and put to use.
ABOUT THE RATING I gave the Opposite 4 stars because it?s a unique product that works. The dual diameter effectively provides two ropes in one. It?s a little heavy, but that weight comes from a beefier sheath. It?s also affordable.
? Unique dual diameter rope optimizes both working and redpointing.
? 63 grams per meter.
? Holds eight CE test falls and has a maximum impact force of 8.2 kN.
? Unique braided core could provide extra security in a cut-rope situation.
? Dry rope.
? Elongation: 38 percent.
? Anti-twist packaging.
Opposite rope going for a sendy spin
Arnold tying into the 9mm side for a send of Choose Life, 5.13d
Great concept and perfectly exectuted
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
As a sport climber, you want a rope that can take a beating along with you during the (hopefully short) working phase of projecting. Falls, taking, failure.... The rope needs to be a workhorse and handle all the abuse. However when it comes time to try and send, you want a light, supple rope that is easier to clip and lighter, yet can still handle big whips. So what do you do, have two ropes for one route? Yes, or just have one rope with two diameters.
The Millet Opposite Triaxiale rope nails it. 50m of 9mm, and 30m of 10mm rope, infused together. An 80m rope that does everything. When you're working the proj, tie into the 10mm side. You have 30m of rope to abuse. When it's time for big links or the send, tie into the 9mm side and give er. The transition from 10mm to 9mm is hardly noticeable, and runs smoothly through an ATC or GriGri without issue. Having more 9mm rope than 10mm keeps the entire rope lighter, and gives you more room to work with a lighter 9mm rope for long pitches where a skinny rope is preferable.
I've used this rope since it first came out and love the execution of the dual-diameter concept. You have two-full length ropes woven into one.
Furthermore, Millet is the only company that is using the braided core concept, which more-precisely places each core strand, for less internal slippage of the core (less rubbing and friction of core strands), thereby increasing the ropes lifespan. This is the