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Description

A whole lot of light.

Thanks to Metolius' minimalist design, the Ultralight TCU Package adds a few pieces to your rack for so little weight that you won't even notice them. A combination of CNC machining, Dyneema slings, and a direct-axle design that eliminates all unneeded material ensures that you're not carrying one extra gram. Metolius takes climbing safety seriously, which is why it added cam stops for better holding power in tipped-out or even passive placements. Not wanting to stop there, Metolius also added rangefinders on the sides of these cams to help you verify that you have exactly the right size for the crack in question.

  • Built-in range finders warn you of over-cammed or tipped-out placements
  • Cam stops add strength to tipped-out placements
  • Minimalist construction and Dyneema slings lower weight
  • Includes a bottle of cam lube to keep thing running smoothly
  • See sizing chart for specifics on range, strength, and weight
  • Made and tested in Bend, Oregon

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Review Summary
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5 3
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Metolius Ultralight TCU Packaged Sets

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Here's what others have to say...

Thin protection? No problem

Thin protection? No problem

Posted on

Me leading Inner Light (5.7R) in Fergusen Canyon, UT. It took me a while to find a perfect placement, but finally found a place to protect with my purple TCU. Gotta Love em!

5 5

Light, versatile, and secure

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have used this set a good deal in big and little cottonwood canyon. Though my favorite rock for these is granite, I find them very useful in quartzite. When cracks aren't wide enough to accommodate four lobes, I can usually find a spot to squeeze a TCU in. Pin scared cracks are especially great at eating these cams right up. With the versatility of these cams on the rock you also get the light weight advantage. These are the lightest active protection in my pack making it a lot easier to haul the rack. I will look forward to having these on my trip up to the lone peak cirque

Do these overlap at all with the C4 0.5-3...

Posted on

Do these overlap at all with the C4 0.5-3 package? Looking to get some smaller pro and debating the full set vs just a few.

Best Answer Responded on

Hey Nick B.,
Although its pricey, I would recommend getting a full set. They do overlap, but not perfectly. The Metolius TCU sizes 2,3,4 will be similar to your Camalots .5, .75, and 1. That being said, you will find that some cracks work better with TCUs and others take Camalots better. The difference in sizes is the reason its good to have the overlapping sizes from different brands. In addition, the TCU's have three lobes where as the C4 has four. This difference makes the TCU a better option for smaller placements. If you have anymore questions or need suggestions for setting up your trad rack feel free to ask. You can also call us at 1-800-409-4502.

5 5

Good Small Cams

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Lightweight, smooth action, good range. Fits all range of finger cracks. So light you barely notice them. DO NOT trust the colored dot rangefinder, you can over-cam in the green zone. As always, use your good judgement and practice placing in a variety of cracks at ground level to get used to their range.

5 5

TCUs are the bees knees

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Love my TCUs. The action is so smooth, they're light weight, strong, don't walk easy and American made! I got mine dirt cheap so that was a huge plus. Would totally recommend them!

TCUs are the bees knees
5 5

best small sized cams iv ever used

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These were my first cams many years ago and they have taken me from gumby hood in trad climbing, to climbing on Half Dome in Yosemite. When I need small cams there are non I would rather use. Good action, very little walking, easy to place, strong, light weight. I did have one cam stop break on the #0, I emailed the metolius and they sent me a new one just like that after being used for two years. I highly recommend these cams.

My favorite small cams!

My favorite small cams!

Posted on

I love these cams! They feel good, action is stellar, fallen on them a ton. I trust these babys

Oldies, but goodies!

Oldies, but goodies!

Posted on

I know, not the "Ultralight" updated model, but they are the same thing!

4 5

Classic design...

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've been using TCU's for years. Up until recently (with the advent of the X4's), I've never found myself lusting after other small cams. I still have these (as I cannot afford, or justify, purchasing the x4's) and bring them on all routes that require them. They are a little wide, the range isn't as great as other designs, and they are less flexible.... but I think they are more than equal to the task. I love em'!

5 5

Light Weight is king

After starting to climb alpine routes in winter with the Power Cam's this season there is no turning back. The convincing factor for me was the weight. Its just so nice to have a lighter rack on the approach but more important less weight on the harness. Using the power cam's increase the safety margin for me as I'm less reluctant to take a few doubles, some thing I rarely did when I was using heavier cams.

The price is also attractive along with easy handling with gloves, some thing I was not so sure of before taking them out an using them in winter.

What's the difference between the TCU and...

Posted on

What's the difference between the TCU and Mastercam? How does the TCU compare to BD C4s?

Responded on

tcu it tri cam unit with 3 lobes and master cam has 4 lobes. and bd cams are what i have on my rack due to just me using them all my life.

5 5

They will fit!

I've used these in Taqhuitz, Yosemite, tuolumne, JTree and the rest of the sierra and I find myself using these regularly as my go to small piece. I have the full set, although I only free climb the 0 and 00 have been great as an extra piece in an anchor, equalized with a sliding x to another piece or simply by themselves when I couldn't get any other piece in. The 1-2 are the bread and butter of the set– small enough to fit where others won't but big enough to hold a bomber fall. I've had plenty of good memories where the (2) yellow or (1) blue fit right in and gave me a lot of piece of mind. The 3-4 are also great as an overlap to BD C4's when you need something narrower. I always carry all of them as they are really light weight. I've never had one walk but I do tend to sling all my placements long...

Only con is they tend to gum up after a while– I usually have to clean and lube them once or twice a year to keep the trigger action smooth (I've never had to do that with a BD C4). I just purchased a set of master cams as a 4cu complement to these TCU's. I love the variety of metolius cams and I highly recommend becoming familiar with their color coding system which will help you when you inevitably have to use them when using your buddy's rack. BD for the bigger stuff and metolius for the tiny pieces....

Hey, how does these compare to the BD C3´s?...

Posted on

Hey, how does these compare to the BD C3´s? Which one´s the better buy? Thanks

Responded on

Everyone seems to be split on that. Get some experience with each of them if you can then buy. They're both good.

5 5

Great Product...

I love these little guys. I have #1 to #6 and find they will go where other cams will not. Lightweight, strong and fast to place. You cant beat them for smaller cracks. Metolius makes a great product and I use them with the Master cams and Supercams. I took a long fall on a #4, and she held fast. Good stuff!

5 5

Stellar

these little guys are a must have. always a go to piece when in a pinch. the three lobes make these great for meandering finger cracks. get good coverage on the lobes and move on. also the range finding colors on the lobes are a fast easy way to make sure you are camed correctly without having to wonder, a great too for a beginner that doesnt quite have the eyes yet also. rack all six on one gear loop and you can barley feel them hanging there. these cams are the bare minimum in weight and size yet offer the most in performance and peace of mind. dont miss out

4 5

Awesome for small fingers

I really wanted some small cams so I could place extra protection on routes. These sat really well in the rock and didnt walk too much. I don't use the range finder so I did not have a problem with overcaming at all. If you have thick fingers you might not like these cams thou.

4 5

Solid Cam

I recently used these on 3 multi-pitch climbs and for an anchor class. These are great small cams, very light and they work incredibly well; however, I like the thumbhole and trigger mechanism on the C3 better. My biggest complaint is the color coding on these cams. If you use this, you can overcam these quite easily in the green range. Overall a great cam and I ended up buying them when I saw the set of 6 on sale. Just be sure to use good judgement when placing them and don't strictly go by the color coding.

Responded on

im not sure but i think that it seems like these are over cammed in the green range when really it is an optimal placement due to the shape of the lobe and the way that they rotate, especially compared to a cam like a C4 where the optimal range is right near the middle.

just a thought!

4 5

Awesomely tiny

Great thin cams, really really lightweight too. For cams of this size I like the metolius trigger mechanism better than the BD. My only issue is with the range finder, which places overcamming in the "green" range.

Responded on

Very new to climbing and have only done top roping...I've seen a couple people mention this "overcamming in the green range"...

In English please. ;)

Also without wanting to sound like a complete nube, I'm building up my gear...just got a set of DMM wallnuts(7 thru 11)...looking to get an "entry" set of cams. Advice? Oh yeah...and price is ALWAYS an issue.

Still doing my research...but looking for the difference between TCU and Power...I'm sure it means what it says...but doing the research!

Responded on

yo dude, no offense, but if you dont know what overcamming is, you shouldnt be placing cams, you could get really hurt up

Responded on

Jas3744122, Admire your ambition. Unless you have experienced Trad friends to teach you, I recommend spending a season or two focusing on sport climbing. You'll learn about setting anchors, being on the rock, its far cheaper and can be safer if done properly.

5 5

The sickness

When they said Utralight they meant it. These TCUs have made racking gear on my harness easier and less bulky. The safety markings gave my girlfriend an extra sense of security on her first trad lead. Great product at a great price!

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