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A hardcore safe harness.
- Nearly everything on this harness is full-strength for the maximum possible security
- Dual belay loops for aid climbing
- Adjustable leg loops work with added layers
- Full-strength haul loop for bringing up a tag line
Share your thoughts
Could this harness be used to jump down...
Could this harness be used to jump down and then back up (approx 8 feet) to a platform using bungee cords for an fx stunt?
I certainly wouldn't attempt it. For visual fx stunts, I would recommend a full body harness with an attachment point on the back, between the shoulders. That would best eliminate the risk of losing control and flipping.
Worth the money.
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
Comfy and safe. Super strong. Only issue I have is that the main double back is a bit of a pain in the ass to make tight.
Here I am climbing Space Shot in Zion National Park with my good buddy Zac who is following the pitch. I believe this is guide book pitch 5.
Photo: Kristin Lane
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Love this thing! Really... Super comfy, super well built, super spacious gear loops, and super safe. Metolius over builds every aspect of the harness to full strength specs with the exception of the rear bungee leg loops (I think) to 22KN. So you can accidentally clip your gear loop, and live to tell the tale! Seriously they do a great job, and this sucker is made in the good old U-S-A! Quality craftsmanship goes into everything Metolius makes, and it's apparent with this harness. Doubt I'll ever buy anything else for sport/trad climbing.
The twin belay loops work pretty well, and for the majority of my climbing I use them in unison. Used as such they're the same thickness of a normal BD belay loop so it's all the same to me as a user. However when rigging rappels or aid climbing they come in super handy. Having your rap set up on one side, and your personal on the other gives you a little extra play and flexibility in your set up/break down time when rapping long routes.
One caveat is that this thing doesn't have any ice clipper slots on the sides which is a huge bummer. I ice climb in the winter, and really need those. So my back up harness is a BD I've had for a few years, and only break out in the winter.
Regardless of this one small thing I would recommend this harness to anyone for any reason having to do with climbing.
I own a size Medium, and have a 32" waist with large skier thighs. She fits like a dream!
Gear Loop Alignment
yes, this is a different harness, but same loops.
My Dream Harness
When my friend Alex showed me this harness about 3 months ago, I knew it would be my next harness. It's super comfortable and I love the two belay loops. The need to double back the buckles was perhaps my biggest motivation in buying the harness. I am glad that Metolius hasn't jumped on the speed adjust bandwagon.
Bomber harness, but tough buckles
This is my first real hardcore harness, so all I've got to compare it to is my old BD entry-level job, but I am wildly impressed. The gear loops are awesome, especially with the flat-lying loops in the back that get out of the way when you don't need them. Cool that everything is load-rated, though I obviously hope that will never come in handy. Above all, though, it fits great. The risers in back are a huge improvement over BD's, and everything cinches down and snugs up nice. Combine that with the load-rated (!) rope guides on the hard points and you have the most confidence-inspiring piece of gear I've ever used. That alone is worth the price of admission.
That said, the double-back buckles are a. outdated (although I don't mind them on their own) and b. really, really tightly fitted. The leg loops in particular are brutal to undo when you're pumped out.
Still worth it though. Highly recommended gear.
Good So Far
This harness seems to be very study and is quite comfortable. It is heavier than a Mammut that I have but it has the added attachment as well. The material is quite rugged and should last many times of use with no problems. The only thing that could be improved on in a future model is to move away from the double back buckles, they are bomb proof but there are others that are just as strong and provide easier adjustment, just a small point though.
My favorite harness...
My favorite harness with the exception of the double back buckle. I still use it all the time over my two different Black Diamonds. The new BD with the speed adjust is quick to put on, just not as comfortable. My old BD is just as comfortable (its an old big wall version with 2 inch webbing) but also has a double back buckle. The Metolius is an awesome harness and would have gotten 5 stars other than the buckle.
10 KN loops, 12 KN haul...
And it's awesome comfortable... but please Metolius, add some newer style buckles. I love the harness... I even use it over my new BD which is a quick adjust... but I don't like the double it back over buckle when there's way better technology out there. I gave it a five star as it is just plain comfortable and has high load loops. If I grab my BD just once due to the fastening system I'm revising this to 4 stars... but that comfort.... I'm sure its become my main go to harness..