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The Metolius PAS (Personal Anchor System) dispenses with the unsafe aspects of a daisy chain and gives you a secure, adjustable connection to your anchor. Whether you're belaying up a second, setting up a rappel, or reracking before the next pitch, the PAS's individually rated loops give you much more security than a daisy's bartack loops and more convenience than a sewn runner. The PAS compactly stores on your harness while climbing, and the included Element locking carabiner makes for a light, secure connection.
Bottom Line: Safer than a daisy and more convenient than a runner, the PAS is your anchor-connection of choice.
"... give you much more security than a daisy's bartack loops and more convenience than a sewn runner." That says it all really. Do the majority of climbers need a PAS? No. Do I even? No. But it makes life a heck of a lot easier and it's safe. I tried the whole sewn runner thing, with it girth hitched and some overhand knots in it for adjustability, but it's a pain in the ass, and shorter than a PAS. The PAS racks up relatively clean whether you use one 'biner on it or two. I have mine between my legs and under to keep it out of the way and prevent it from snagging. I use mine to help me clean a route, set up a rappel, and anchor into a belay.
I agree with all of what has been said and would add that it stores very compactly on your harness: you can just clip all of the loops through a beiner and clip it to a gear loop without the tangle of wrapping it around yourself. regular daisy
would this be suitable for canyoneering or not? i am just looking for something that i can use while clipped into and above an anchor while setting up the rope(s) for raps. just not sure if this is designed for that or not. if not, any recommendations?
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This thing is awesome. Best anchor system I have seen. Lightweight and strong, very fast on the mountain. Gets the job done in a pinch, without the fuss of the right length sling. Bonus works great with gloves, if on a glacier or vertical ice.
The new PAS anchor system is an improvement on the traditional daisy chain; it's a lot stronger, and therefore, it is much safer. I highly recommend it for this reason especially if you are constantly setting up pro and doing multi-pitch climbs.
Yes, since all of the loops are full strength rated, you would be safe setting up an extended rappel with this. Remember to hitch it through both your harness attachment points and not your belay loop!
The new PAS anchor system is an improvement on the traditional daisy chain; it's a lot stronger, and therefore, it is much safer. I highly recommend it for this reason especially if you are constantly setting up pro and doing multi-pitch climbs.
I use this for anchoring to bolts at the top of single pitch sport climbs, which it works quite well for. Probably my favorite application of this is for extending my belay device for rappels. I clip my belay biner through *both* the first little hole and the first "chain link", then when I'm ready to rappel I simply clip the PAS biner to my harness waist loop, creating a secure and redundant connection, which will keep me safe even in the (extremely unlikely) event that my belay loop or this sling fails. Also, this makes it easy to clip my "third hand" prussic directly to my belay loop. Note that this is not really designed to attach to anchors for belaying on multi-pitch routes, as the rope that is already tied to you is far superior for that purpose.
Is this a good anchor to hang off for setting top ropes or belaying a second? I want something other than a single runner that i can just use as an anchor to hang on while setting up sketchy top-rope anchors or for my younger brother just in case he slips while up top. Thanks
Yes, this is a great anchor. I have one attached to my harness at all times.
However, keep in mind that it is a static piece of equipment, and if you put a shock load on it, you can damage the anchor you are attached to. These are not meant for taking any kind of fall without something else to absorb the energy generated. That is what your rope is for.
Use this to make yourself safe at the top, then the best thing to do while bringing your second up is to stay tied into your rope and hitch yourself to the anchor via your climbing rope, that way if you fall, the dynamic rope absorbs the energy. Of course keep this attached as a back up. Just a suggestion though.
Easily stowed with one beaner, easy selection of length with its large loops, and the added safety of individually sewn loops; I wouldn't use anything else!
I love my PAS. It is very useful and is always on my harness. The pas is safer than a daisy chain but doesn't have as many loop options as a dasiy chain. So far my PAS has help up great to abuse. I have no complaints.
You absolutely cannot go wrong with the PAS. The PAS is light, super strong, versatile and easily adjustable. The PAS has so many uses and is a lot better way to go that a daisy chain.
This is a great replacement for a daisy chain because of the potential disaster scenarios it lets one avoid. Like everyone else has said, this is a static product to be used in static applications only, even though it can hold up to 18kN of force. Do not let this dynamic number fool you: the loops can take that amount of force. Your body cannot. Severe injury can be inflicted by even an extremely short fall on a static attachment. But all that aside, this anchor system is always on my harness--it is absolutely invaluable and was some of the greatest $30 I ever spent!
Well its very light weight. It stoes next to my harness well. I love the fact that each loop is fully rated. The only this that sketches me is how thin the loops are, A bit more fabric would give me a more secure feeling, But Iam use to using a big ol daisy chain.
The PAS makes clipping in easy and hassle-free. But the carabiner that comes with it is still a source of hassle. The gate seizes when locked, so it is hard to tell which way is actually unscrewing it (same resistance either way). Really frustrating. I definitely recommend the PAS, but try to find one w/o the carabiner. Its a waste of money!
By far the best personal anchor system you can have attached to your harness! The method to lengthen or shorten the PAS when at the bolts couldn't be simpler. You get maximum protection no matter which loop you are attached to. Add to that the ability to use as an equalizer and you can't go wrong! Throw away your daisy chain and go with this PAS!
This is used as a leash to connect your harness to a bolt, protection, ice screw, anchor or something solid. It is a popular alternative to the daisy chain used in rock or ice climbing. The standard daisy chain as a flaw that, when used without proper instruction, can lead to disaster. Though daisy chains do a great job be sure to understand how they work. Check http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html for more information.Due to the material it is made of it is not recommended for activities where you end up above your anchor, such as canyoneering. (The founder of ATS, Darren Jeffrey, demonstrated how easy they can fail in those situations.)
I always use this while ice climbing and canyoneering. Great racking as people have mentioned. Girth hitch to belay loop in harness, and biner the loops together then clip them to the equip loops on your harness. In action, like stated, you can weight yourself on any loop safely, allowing short or long lengths as needed. There are various methods of using, but heed best practices - clip into anchor/bolt, webbing anchor, wrap around a thin tree and clip into itself, etc.
The only drawback to this specific item is the included biner. Lots of people would want to use the biner of their choice. But as a package, it's well worth it.
I was fully prepared to buy a BD daisy chain until I started reading all the warnings and decided this would be worth the extra cost, which it has been. The large loops are easy to clip and store away. The larger loops have been handy for clipping misc. items into on hanging belays. Not all of them come with a carabiner so be aware of that when comparing prices.
I recommend the chain reactor over this. The chain reactor is 100% nylon which will take shock load better than high strength fibers like dyneema, spectra, technora, etc... Sterling say's it survived multiple fall factor 2's. The PAS is 27% Dyneema / 73% nylon.
When designing my 145' zipline down my backyard hill for my kids and adults friends, I wanted safety a priority. When I found this PAS on Backcountry, I realized it perfect to customize the hook up distance for adults and children from the trolley. A bit more expensive than a single runner, but than 'one size fits all'. The added locking beiner is a no brainer.
I got this PAS last year and finally had to get my boyfriend one for Christmas because I got tired of sharing it! As other reviews have noted, this system is exponentially safer than a daisy chain and so versatile. Ice climbing in the backcountry can present some pretty odd belaying angles and I never have to worry with this system because I can use any one of the loops. Relegate your old daisy chain to gear racking and upgrade now!
I feel super comfortable when hooked in with this chain. It easy to use and far better in my opinion than the classic daisy. The individual loops are each fall rated so you know that you're staying on the wall. The locking biner is a nice addition as well. Any serious climber should invest in one of these to keep on your harness.
I am new at outdoor climbing and was looking for a PAS for myself, and went ahead and bought this even after my buddy told me to just save some money and buy some webbing and a locking binner. It was worth the minimal extra money to be able to use this thing with ease as I clip in and out of the multiple loops customizing the length of anchor on the fly, while he fumbles around trying to get the length right on his webbing. Can you do it cheaper? sure. Is it the best system out there? There might be, but I am sold on this one for how easy it is to use.
The loops in the PAS are sewn to full strength, so it can handle a fall, and because they're so big, they're easier to adjust and readjust while at a belay changing the gear. Just a great option.
Shorty turned me on to this thing a year or two back, but I was stubborn and continued to clip in at the belay with a sewn runner or by girth hitching the rope. I finally conceded before a recent trip to Red Rock, and this thing is great. The fact that it's adjustable and still so secure (where a daisy is pretty easy to kill yourself with) is the big turn on for me. The only downside I see is that it can be a bit bulky when you have alot of gear racked on your harness.
This anchor system is great at the crag for cleaning anchors (especially for beginners) and for hanging out at belays on multi pitch routes (no more clove hitch). It is great when raping multi pitch routes since you don't have to have two slings to go to each bolt at the rap anchor, or trust just one bolt at the rap anchors, while setting up the rappel.
When I first got this thing I was very skeptical. It looked way too gimmicky to actually be functional. After a month of using it, Im a believer. The main advantage of using this over a daisy is that it allows you to clip into two different anchors without violating the double-clipping that makes daisys body-weight only. Being able to clip in before finishing your anchor saves you tons of time on long routes and rappels.
I used this thing for a while, but now i just use a clove on a locker at the master point. Or, at the top of a sport route, just use a sling. Sort of just one more piece of gear that doesn't really belong on the harness.
This thing is significant improvement over a daisy - it solves the danger of mistakenly clipping only the tack-stitching on a daisy (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be17lI-rVyU). And it's stronger than a daisy - if anyone is ever bored, go drop a hundred pound weight onto a daisy as though that hundred-pound weight were standing precariously above the anchor.... it won't hold.
What it doesn't solve is the fact that both this and a daisy are STATIC. That's why a daisy doesn't hold that 100 pound drop, and why this thing isn't really safe. You should always tie to your anchor WITH YOUR ROPE - clove hitch or figure eight or whatever - because the rope is dynamic. So if you slip while precariously balanced above the anchor, or get hit by a rock, you might actually have some hope.
When you're rappelling, tying in with the rope obviously isn't an option. Solution: tie yourself a Prussel Prusik and keep that on your harness. - it's more adjustable than this thing and it's dynamic.
"... give you much more security than a daisy's bartack loops and more convenience than a sewn runner." That says it all really. Do the majority more...
I agree with all of what has been said and would add that it stores very compactly on your harness: you can just clip all of the loops through a beiner more...
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