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Safer than a daisy and more convenient than a runner, the PAS is your anchor-connection of choice.
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I bought three
Love it! I bought one for myself, one for my girlfriend and one for friends when they come. The PAS is thick, and easy to handle with one hand. Love Metolious!
Flaking the rope
It sure does make a nice place to flake the rope when at hagning at belay station.
A little extra safety is always a good thing. This PAS has been great for multi-pitches. Allows for quick and easy anchoring when you belaying or resting. The adjustability for length is great and easy to use to make life easier during your climb. Worth the extra money.
Best Personal Anchor System!
I've been using this PAS for a few years and have never had one complaint with it! It's so much stronger and safer than using a daisy chain to anchor yourself with, and with the different full strength loops you always have the proper length! Go ahead and hang on this puppy! It won't let you down!
Worth the extra $
This guy makes clipping into anchors easy! If you get two of them, they're great for making an equalized, redundant anchor.
Great new design to a traditional idea
I used this daisy chain this weekend and it was very functional. The loops were easy to attach to my harness to keep out of the way of my climb. When I reached the top, it was easy to adjust the length because the holes are much larger than the traditional daisy chain. I may use a larger carabiner in the future to attach to the end however. I like the light weight of the one used, but its size is a bit too small.
A Must have...
Great idea and simple to use. If you do any multi pitch climbing, you will find this very helpful. Great for hanging belays or clip into protection and take a rest.
Daisys No More
As you can tell this Personal Anchor System as Metolius calls it is nothing like you traditional daisy. This supereb piece of gear is just a bunch of the strongest parts of a harness(belay loop) looped together for optimal strength and safety. All climbers must have ...
I have used a runner, knotted in the middle and re-clipped to my harness's belay loop with an extra biner, to extend my rappel device. I never get the knot in the right spot. I also use the biner clipped to my belay loop to anchor in once I hit the belay station. It's never the right length! Grrr...
This fixes all that AND it has no dyneema weakening knots tied in it.
It's 16mm of dyneema and nylon badness.
BUT, please girth hitch this to your harness's waist and leg loops and NOT your belay loop.
AND clip in nice and tight (you can even adjust your clip in point with an extra biner without ever completely unclipping from you anchor) and avoid those nut busting factor 2 falls.
I took away 1 star because all those stiff stitched sections get to be a pain the butt sometimes.
would this be suitable for canyoneering...
would this be suitable for canyoneering or not? i am just looking for something that i can use while clipped into and above an anchor while setting up the rope(s) for raps. just not sure if this is designed for that or not. if not, any recommendations?
ok i wasn't sure if it was ok to use this while clipped into an anchor and above it in case i slipped since as i understand it, it is not dynamic.
I wouldn't use any piece of non-dynamic gear if I'm above the anchors. Check on you-tube for gear testing videos...it's amazing how short of a fall can overwhelm static nylon with moderate mass, less than what a person typically weighs.
can you safely use the PAS for anextended...
can you safely use the PAS for anextended rappel?
The new PAS anchor system is an improvement on the traditional daisy chain; it's a lot stronger, and therefore, it is much safer. I highly recommend it for this reason especially if you are constantly setting up pro and doing multi-pitch climbs.
Makin' Life Simpler
"... give you much more security than a daisy's bartack loops and more convenience than a sewn runner." That says it all really. Do the majority of climbers need a PAS? No. Do I even? No. But it makes life a heck of a lot easier and it's safe. I tried the whole sewn runner thing, with it girth hitched and some overhand knots in it for adjustability, but it's a pain in the ass, and shorter than a PAS. The PAS racks up relatively clean whether you use one 'biner on it or two. I have mine between my legs and under to keep it out of the way and prevent it from snagging. I use mine to help me clean a route, set up a rappel, and anchor into a belay.
I'm a believer.
Shorty turned me on to this thing a year or two back, but I was stubborn and continued to clip in at the belay with a sewn runner or by girth hitching the rope. I finally conceded before a recent trip to Red Rock, and this thing is great. The fact that it's adjustable and still so secure (where a daisy is pretty easy to kill yourself with) is the big turn on for me. The only downside I see is that it can be a bit bulky when you have alot of gear racked on your harness.
Sweet... w/o carabiner
The PAS makes clipping in easy and hassle-free. But the carabiner that comes with it is still a source of hassle. The gate seizes when locked, so it is hard to tell which way is actually unscrewing it (same resistance either way). Really frustrating. I definitely recommend the PAS, but try to find one w/o the carabiner. Its a waste of money!
I am new at outdoor climbing and was looking for a PAS for myself, and went ahead and bought this even after my buddy told me to just save some money and buy some webbing and a locking binner. It was worth the minimal extra money to be able to use this thing with ease as I clip in and out of the multiple loops customizing the length of anchor on the fly, while he fumbles around trying to get the length right on his webbing. Can you do it cheaper? sure. Is it the best system out there? There might be, but I am sold on this one for how easy it is to use.
The only way to go
You absolutely cannot go wrong with the PAS. The PAS is light, super strong, versatile and easily adjustable. The PAS has so many uses and is a lot better way to go that a daisy chain.
Is this a good anchor to hang off for...
Is this a good anchor to hang off for setting top ropes or belaying a second? I want something other than a single runner that i can just use as an anchor to hang on while setting up sketchy top-rope anchors or for my younger brother just in case he slips while up top.
This would be perfect for that Justin. Just make sure that whatever you're clipping it into is good!
Yes, this is a great anchor. I have one attached to my harness at all times.
However, keep in mind that it is a static piece of equipment, and if you put a shock load on it, you can damage the anchor you are attached to. These are not meant for taking any kind of fall without something else to absorb the energy generated. That is what your rope is for.
Use this to make yourself safe at the top, then the best thing to do while bringing your second up is to stay tied into your rope and hitch yourself to the anchor via your climbing rope, that way if you fall, the dynamic rope absorbs the energy. Of course keep this attached as a back up. Just a suggestion though.
This is still a must by for me.
This would be perfect. We use them in at our university climbing club for exactly the same things.
I recommend the chain reactor over this. The chain reactor is 100% nylon which will take shock load better than high strength fibers like dyneema, spectra, technora, etc... Sterling say's it survived multiple fall factor 2's. The PAS is 27% Dyneema / 73% nylon.
Does just about everything a daisy chain does with none of the disadvantages. Packs down very small when not in use.