Noticing that your belay biner has slipped to a cross-loaded position in the middle of your partner's burn is not only frustrating, it's dangerous. Prevent the scenario with the Metolius Gatekeeper Carabiner. A secondary gate keeps the biner properly aligned on your belay loop, and the widened spine helps to prevent semi-auto belay devices from sliding down the biner.
- Internal gate keeps the carabiner properly aligned on the belay loop to prevent cross loading
- Widened spine design helps prevent semi-auto belay devices from sliding down on the carabiner
- Screwlock gate is familiar, secure, and reliable
Share your thoughts
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
This is the best anti-cross load biner on the market period.
The black diamond gridlock is no good because the smaller gate that keeps your belay loop in place is connected to the main gate, meaning you cannot take your belay loop out of its place in the biner without opening the main gate, this has lead some of my friends to drop their belay devices from up on a climb. Even if you take your belay device off and hold it in your hand while you take your biner off your harness, you still have to open the gate twice, once to get the belay loop out of its notch, and once to then completely remove it from the biner.
Other anti-cross load biners with a separate wire gate at the bottom of the biner are no good either, Basically other brands took belay biners they already made and added a wire gate to the bottom. You have the pull the gate up to open it and get you belay loop in, and then with enough force your belay loop will push its way through the gate and end up outside the area you want it to stay in.
The Gatekeeper was designed from the ground up to be an ant-cross load belay biner. They made it a different shape so there was room at the bottom of the biner to have that second gate swing the right way so that a tug on the biner sets the belay loop inside and removing it is simple, just grab the biner, push down with your middle or ring finger on the gate and you can slip your belay loop out. If you use a GriGri, the big corner on the top of the biner is too big for the hole in the GriGri, so even if your belay loop was not held in place so beautifully, the Gri could not make it around to the spine of the biner.
Basically, this is the best around, its easy to use and effective.
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
I got this at my local shop. It's outstanding. Both ends allow you to belay without fear. It works with the Grigri and with an ATC. It's a great carabiner and Metolius went out of their way to get a UIAA certification on it which just means it's been subjected to a few additional tests.
I bought this as a dedicated locking biner for use with my sterling reactor anchor. (Although stupid, I wanted to use all green components to keep separate for dedicated personal anchor use only -OCD).
This device is really well thought out. I usually don't have an issue with crosss loading the biner with belay devices, but this can totally prevent that. The spine keeps the ATC put at the top of this HMS. For my application, on a personal anchor system, the lower gate keeps the biner on the anchor loop. I would recommend this to be used as a dedicated belay biner.