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Description

Catch big falls easily.

The Mammut Smart Belay Device locks at en extremely low force, so you can catch your friend's massive whippers with ease. This unique belay device also works on anything from an 8.9 to a 10.5mm rope, so you're not stuck with something that doesn't work when you get to the crag.

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12 3
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Mammut Smart Belay Device

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

The perfect device to accompany an ATC

If you have an ATC or any other non-locking belay device that goes along with this one then you are all set! Use this device for belaying climbers and your other tubular device for your rappels. Why? Because this device is everything the Gri Gri is not. It feeds out slack on a lead belay smoother than any other device. It weighs significantly less. And the price seals the deal. I was looking for a device that was auto locking, well priced, reliable, durable, and light on my harness. The two devices I had in my sights were the Smart Belay and the Mega Jul. I tried both for top roping and leading at the gym. The Mega Jul was sticky and the rope drag along the thumb when feeding slack out was uncomfortable, but the versatility was extremely attractive. But when I tried the Smart Belay the contest was over, the rope channel took care of that thumb rubbing on the rope, it was super SUPER smooth, smoother than any other device, even smoother than my Reverso. The only thing that it doesn't have is the capability to rappel on a double strand of rope, and it is a bit heavier. But between my Reverso and this device, I believe I have the two best belay devices on the market. I can get it all done with the most comfortable performance and best price available for the function. I just put my other belay device away and used my friends Smart Belay until I bought my own... It's that good.

5 5

Great, lightweight belay device

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

The single-rope Smart belay device is perfect for belaying top rope and single-pitch sport. It took me about 2-3 lead belays to get used to paying out slack for clipping, but now I prefer it to an ATC.

The only thing that is taking time for me to get used to is paying out slack right after taking in slack (happens a lot indoors with closely-spaced clips). After you've taken in slack, your brake hand is below the device, but to pay out slack you have to move your brake hand back up to the device. What the manufacturer recommends you do is to move your brake hand up the rope back to the device while maintaining a "tunnel" with your fingers such that the rope is always within your brake hand. It can feel sketchy at first but it's perfectly safe if you do it right.

How to use the Smart Devices

Posted on

Mammut's Fritz Sch�fer, Climbing Equipment Product Manager, explains how the Smart [and Alpine] belay device was developed and how to use it.

5 5

Great alternative to a GriGri

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

When I first started to learn lead climbing in a gym I was having a difficult time with the GriGri and I kept shorting the climber I was belaying (which is a no no). My friend had this smart device and let me try it out. After belaying with it for only two routes I was sold! It was so much easier to feed rope to the climber while still having the locking feature I love since many of the people I climb with weigh more than me. I would definitely recommend for indoor climbing, but outside I still love my GriGri.

5 5

Great Product

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've only ever used this product in a gym, but it functions very well. It allows you to let rope out and take it back very easily, while still locking if your climber falls. It feels as safe as a grigri, but with a much nicer pricetag. I would highly recommend this product.

4 5

Middle of the Road is a good place to be

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

After a harrowing experience tarnished my self confidence with a grigri, my climbing mentor suggested I try the Smart Belay Device. I really like the auto-lock for an added safeguard that I enjoyed with the grigri, but feel a lot more comfortable belaying lead climbs with the similar muscle memories that I've developed with years of using an ATC. I think this is a good compromise between the two.
It takes a minute to get used to the lowering motion without jerking your climber around, but that's no biggie.
This is definitely the device that I like to have my friends use when I'm showing them how to belay for the first time.
I went cheap and bought this one, but I'd recommend the double holed model, so that it's more functional for rappelling and multi-pitch climbs and so that you don't have to carry another piece of equipment with you. I'm giving it 4 stars for that reason, and because of the fact that this doesn't fit all ropes.

5 5

Excellent

I bought this about 8 months ago and it is awesome. Worth the money. I actually like using it better than the Grigri belay. It is head over heels better than a regular ATC. It is great for top roping also especially when someone is hang dogging working a route.

5 5

Mammut Smart Belay

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

This device is amazing! As long as your rope is within the dimensions listed, you'll really enjoy this belay device. Quick and easy to use.

2 5

Size-Limited

I see that Mammut's Smart Alpine belay device rope diameter range is limited to ropes of 8.9 millimeters to 10.5 mm. It's a shame it can't manage my Mammut 8.5 mm Genesis doubles. Mammut, are you planning a smaller size version to expand on the two you sell currently? Does anyone know of a good similar device (auto locking assist for doubles) on the market? I seem to have seen one once but cannot find it now. Thanks.

5 5

Best belay device I've used

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I have the 2 rope and single rope versions of the Mammut Smart Belay, and I love them. I've been using various versions of the ATC for many years, and the smart belay works almost identical to an ATC - so all my muscle memory already knows how to use it safely. (unlike a grigri which requires different muscle memory than an ATC)

In the gym, I'm more confident knowing that my belayer will always catch my fall (because the device will catch automatically). I also find it easier and faster to feed rope to a lead climber than with ATC (or ATC guide). And, it's easier to control the descent (for lowering or rappelling) with less friction on my hand due to the "handle" taking much of the friction.

Better braking, auto catching, easier feeding, light, inexpensive. I can't think of anything wrong with it. I recommend this as a replacement for the ATC for sport and trad use.

5 5

More dynamic than a Gri-Gri

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

One thing I've noticed other reviews missing is how much better it is for catching falls on trad lead. Since gri-gris stop so instantly it puts a lot more of the shock on your protection, whereas the smart gives a little slip to help ease it. This is a great help when your last piece was sketchy or you're ice climbing.

4 5

A smart middle ground

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I always hated lead belaying with a gri-gri. I've used the Smart several times in the gym and it seems like a good compromise between having a device that autolocks (though I wouldn't trust it to lock as I do a grigri) with the ease of use of an ATC (though not AS easy since the rope sometimes slips off the central groove and gets caught).

I'm interested in how it behaves when belaying someone from the top during multi-pitch climbs. Anyone used this device in that situation?

Responded on

It specifies that it isn't for multipitch due to its lack of autoblock mode. The double barreled version works just fine though.

Responded on

Good to know! My smrt is still in transit, slogging over ground shipping, so I haven't had a chance to read any of the specifications. BackCountry, why isn't this available online? Especially with technical gear like this, it would be good to read the intended use policy.

Responded on

Yeah I made the same mistake, not realizing that the single rope version couldn't be used for multipitch. Oh well... I'll keep it for sport and TR, and buy the Smart Alpine for Multipitch.... half the cost of a gri gri,lighter, and simplier.. thats a no brainer.

5 5

Intuitive and simple!

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I I prefer it over the action of a grigri style device. It is a good device for rookie belayers as it is auto-assist for falls, and it makes lowering the climber easier and more fluid. Catching falls is smooth as the device does not lock up istantly.

One thing to note, it cannot be used for top-belay off an anchor. For that feature, go with the smart alpine.

5 5

Don't be stupid, be a smarty...

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought the year they started selling it and have basically forsaken all other belay devices on my rack. My ATC is in the bottom of my storage box, and my 8 is...hmm, no idea where that is now. But it doesn't matter, because the Mammut Smart is the best single rope belay device you can use. Auto locking when your leader takes a fall, no moving parts to get damaged, fits a wide variety of ropes, is SUPER easy to use, and isn't made in China, this thing is awesome. The only thing better is the Mammut Alpine Smart for double ropes.

4 5

Give it a shot.

  • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift, but have feedback to share

My favorite belay device has, and probably always will be, a classic ATC. But I bought this for my boyfriend who is learning to belay and thought I'd try it out so I could teach him how it works. And I love it! It works similarly to an ATC but the auto-lock is awesome. Lowering is a little tricky at first, but with a little practice it will feel totally natural. Definitely would recommend this product, especially to beginner climbers/belayers.

4 5

Pretty Solid.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I am a beginning to very intermediate climber, though I do lack confidence in the ability to trust my gear. As a less experienced climber, I found that this Smart Belay from Mammut is more intuitive to use than the Petzl GriGri. I was also much more comfortable using EITHER device than a traditional ATC. The neat thing about the Mammut Smart Belay is that it mimics the action of an ATC, but it gives you extra security in the event of a fall since it does lock up. When lowering I did like the brake feature on the GriGri better, but overall I think the simplicity of the Mammut device won me over. If I do decide to upgrade from my ATC, it would be to this Smart Belay Device. You also can't beat the price when comparing it to a GriGri which comes in around $100!

Belay with the Smarts

Belay with the Smarts

Posted on

The Mammut Smart Belay Device in action at City of Rocks, Idaho.

5 5

Perfect for Lead-Belaying Lefties!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I got this belay device for lead belays, either in the gym or for single-pitch outside. It's worked great for me- it catches falls smoothly and easily, and works great at paying out slack for clipping.
Lowering the climber took a bit of practice to get smooth, but works well for me now. I definitely recommend watching the instructional video on the Mammut site. I wasn't sure if I should keep my thumb on the hook at all times or only while giving slack. Now I permanently keep my thumb on the hook for a smoother and safe belay.

As a lefty, I don't like lead-belaying with a grigri, since it is designed for your right-hand being the brake hand while rapidly paying out the slack needed for clipping. I'd either short-rope the climber during clipping, or be tempted to take my left brake hand off to help feed the rope quicker. The Smart is symmetric, so I can use it the same as a righty. I never take my brake-hand totally off the rope, but the lock-assist means that it takes hardly any effort to keep the rope locked off, which is quite handy when the climber is hangdogging a project. My girlfriend, a righty, also likes the belay action, and usually uses the Smart instead of her own grigri.
However, I don't often use this device while toproping in the gym. Since the toprope ropes are a good bit thicker than the lead ropes, belaying on those ropes is sluggish, with more effort necessary to take up the slack as the climber climbs. For this, I usually just use my standard ATC.
While the alpine version needs a HMS carabiner, for the single-track smart device, a NORMAL CARABINER works much better! The HMS beener had the nasty habit of cross-loading while in use with the Smart.

5 5

Smart choice.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've been seeing a lot of people comparing this to the Petzl GriGri, but this isn't really fair because this device is not designed to be fully-locking; it actually just holds the majority of the climbers weight.

But I'll compare anyway since I've used both. For sport climbing this works BETTER than a GriGri in my opinion, because it feeds rope a lot easier and locks almost just as well. To feed rope there is no need to unlock the device because there are no moving parts like with the GriGri; you just push it forward with your thumb and pull out rope with the guide hand. (this actually makes it easier to feed rope than with and ATC)
The locking is very effective. My rope is a 10.2mm and I've also used this with 9.8 and 10.5mm ropes, and for these it holds about 90-95% of the climbers weight.
The amount of rope slippage obviously depends on the weight of the climber and the thickness of the rope, but since I never use thin ropes or belay fast-food eaters it always locks up fine.

Lowering for the first time with this thing was a little jerky though. The trick is the push it away horizontally instead of pulling it up vertically, and then there's the "sweet spot" that lowers the climber smoothly. Takes a little getting used to (3 times for me) and then there's no problem with this.

Overall, this device is awesome. The only thing I think a GriGri would be better for is toproping, although the Smart still works great for that. For lowering, both took me about the same amount of time to learn to control properly, so I wouldn't consider this to be an issue.
This also comes in a 2-rope version which can be used for other things including rappelling. (There are 2 of these for different rope diameters).
Here's a URL for Mammut's video that shows how to use the Smart:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=A684wbremic

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