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Description

There's no such thing as too smart when it comes to safety.

The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device doesn't boast unnecessarily about its own intelligence. It doesn't have to because its intuitive design speaks for itself and offers great utility on belay or rappel.

  • An updated design uses the same non-mechanical construction of the original Smart device to pinch the rope during a fall and make for easy catching and holding
  • The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering your climber
  • The auto-lock option allows a lead climber to belay one or two seconding climbers directly below the anchor
  • Device accepts a wide range of rope diameters between 8.9mm and 10.5mm

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Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device - 8.9mm-10.5mm

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Awesome Device

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Got this after using a friend's, and I love it! I've yet to rappel with it, but it belays very smooth and has worked well for me with 9.8 and 10.2 mm ropes.

5 5

Perfect all arounder

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using one of these for several years now, and will continue to do so. The auto block works great as long as you have the right carabiner. I have a Petzl William, which I highly recommend using with this, an HMS is pretty much necessary. It works swimmingly in guide mode too. The great thing about it, is that you get the features of a GriGri and an ATC guide. It's super lightweight, very durable (I've dropped it more times than I can remember with hardly any nicks, and none where the rope runs through) and no moving parts. The rappel mode did take a while to get used to, but now after a few hundred of them, I have it down. I can glide down the rope with absolutely no problems. I even hung my dog from my harness ( he was in a rated harness too) and I was able to get down the rope smoothly. If you're new, I would still suggest starting out with an ATC, so you really get to understand the necessity of keeping your brake hand engaged at all times, you never know when you'll leave the smart behind. After you wear through an ATC, graduate to this.

4 5

round biners!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I find this thing works great and is super handy and reliable. The smoothness seems to depend on what type of carabiner i am using. Round ones seem to work the best.

Why I bought this thing -

Why I bought this thing -

Your life is a precious thing - and when it's cold, whipping wind, and your hands are tense - it's REALLY nice to have this thing autolocking for you on rappel.

Northwest couloir of the Pfeifferhorn in optimal conditions.

5 5

Great for belay

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Got this because my girlfriend was scared she'd drop me... I started using it instead of my black diamond ATC and I love it.

4 5

Not good for rappelling. Great at belay

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

The simple design of this item is great. It's simple and works very well. I purchased the two-sided model because I intended to rappel. However I wish I would have bought the single sided model for weight savings. It is great for belaying. But when you rappel, the rope ends get twisted and complicate the process. Instead of having your brake hand off to the right, you end up feeding rope from the bottom inward. You also have to lift the lever to get the rope going. When you're focusing on your foot placement, there is too much going on and it's hard to be smooth.

4 5

Great Jack of All Trades

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Used to carry my grigri and an ATC guide up everything multipitch. Loved the extra security of a grigri, but needed to rap or belay two seconds. Now I can finally do it all with one device. This guy does it all, but does seem to have a few caveats. Firstly, it _REALLY_ needs a carabiner that prevents cross loading (any of the belay biners with the added little springgate inside should work). Seriously, I'm surprised it isnt in bold flashing font in the instructions. On a typical HMS or pear or whatever biner, if it flips to the narrow side of the biner, the autolocking function will cease to function. Works like a normal ATC at this point, but if you are expecting it to lock and it doesn't...whoops. I've been using the Edelrid HMS Strike Slider FG with fantastic results. Also lowering and rapping can be somewhat jerky. This seems to be very weight dependent! I'm 165lbs and its about perfect for me; I can rap in 'autolock' mode without it locking up inadvertently all the time. Takes a bit of getting used to, but its pretty damn slick when you do; no more need to deal with those annoying autoblocks or prussik backups. I feel like heavier folks, or if you are rapping with an additional load, it would engage the autolock frequently and make rapping a royal pain. I've also heard that rapping with two significantly different diameter ropes is a chore not worth repeating. No personal experience in that, but thought it was worth mentioning.

Also its a bit funky looking, but whatever. Check out the edelrid Mega Jul for a similar device without the funky look. Iv'e heard reports with durability being an issue, but I think they newest version of them sorted that out.

Couldn't be happier

Couldn't be happier

This belay device is excellent! It really is something that every climber needs!

How to Use the Smart Alpine

Mammut's Fritz Schufer, Climbing Equipment Product Manager, explains how the Smart Alpine was developed and how to use it.

5 5

Belays like a dream

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

After having used this for well over a year now, I can say that I like it more than just about any other belay device I have used. It does take a bit of getting used to, but that's pretty much true of everything. Extremely versatile and just makes for smooth handling. Highly recommended.

Belays like a dream
5 5

You'll never need another belay device.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Mammut Smart Alpine is on the brink of perfection for any style of climbing. You can do everything with this autolocker, from belaying like a Gri Gri to top rope belaying like an ATC Guide. You can even jug haul up ropes and rappel better than most devices. Granted, it takes a little bit to get used to, and prevent cross-loading. But, would you rather take your Gri Gri and a Guide on multipitches? Or would you rather take one superlight device for all your climbing needs?

5 5

Simply Awesome

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

easy to use, can rappel with it, and Auto Locking. essential item to have. little tough to use ice climbing with a 10.2 rope.

5 5

The best kept secret

I'm not sure why this device isn't wildly popular--it's hands down the best belay device on the market, no questions asked. The smart alpine does everything--assisted braking like a gri gri, full two-rope rappels, and easy lowering. Sure, it's a tiny bit heavier than a BD Guide XP, but with the peace of mind that comes from auto-lock catching when you can't see your partner on a long day and a scary lead, this thing is worth it's weight in gold.

5 5

The Best thing since slice bread!!!!!!!!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

For those of us who don't wish to carry around a heavy, lunky gri gri (mind you, the gri has a place and purpose and I have used them for it) The Mammut Smart Alpine is my swiss army knife of belayness.

With it's autolocking belay feature, especially in the alpine where rockfall is ever prominent, I feel more secure in my belay.

The autolocking feature is also active on Rappel - this is the device's best feature. While rappelling you are able to go hands free (albeit the manufacturer does not say the device can do this, but it has never failed for me) - I don't do it often, as you never should, but when it is necessary to untangle a rope - it's a nice thing to know you are still secure.

I have also used this device alone to jug up a rope to take photos, and to clean route. I have also used it to jug back up over a roof after missing a rap station.

The device also allows to belay from above up to two climbers. This feature, in my own opinion, is often smoother in it's action than the ATC guide! - although the ATC guide is a great belay device in it's own right.

PROS: It's autolocking feature. It's amazing. It isn't a gri gri, but it not only locks while belaying, but rappelling as well. Lightweight, in comparison to other autolocking devices, and it's versatility are amazing- you can't perform a traditional rappel with a GRI GRi and have the autolock feature- you can with the MSA!

CONS: a bit tricky to figure out at first and requires an HMS biner. But these cons are extremely outweighed by the benefits of the device.

5 5

Excellent all-around device

  • Gender: Female
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I'll admit that this device takes a little getting used to. But once that happens, I would never trade the ability to rappel and go hands-free (no back-up needed), feed out slack to a leader with the bonus of being auto-locking (just in case...), and using the device in plaquette/guide mode on iced up ropes- it is smooth and seems to break ice off of ropes more easily that other devices. Definitely recommended. In the attached photo I'm using the Mammut Belay Sling as well, which makes multi-pitch rappelling even smoother and more efficient.

Excellent all-around device
3 5

Good Substitute for a Gri Gri

When I first bought this device I was excited to have a "gri gri" type auto locking device and it worked great with my 10.2 mm rope. However, at the gyms I go to they use larger ropes which jam ALOT and makes it very hard to let down the climber. Overall it is a great device and works well with small ropes and autolocks nicely but it is not a good partner with larger ropes.

4 5

Agreat Auto-locking belay device

The smart alpine works great. Gives you the ability to belay and rappel with double ropes, plus you get the safety of auto-lock for both. I did find that it locks up a tad too easily when giving slack to the leader, but more time and practice may eliminate that problem. It is super light and smaller than the picture seems to indicate.

5 5

Smart Belay from Mammut

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have an original Mammut smart belay device and love it, the only thing it was missing was the ability to set it up for dual rope configuration, I like to set up a top rope and climb around the same route for a while and it make it easy for me to rappel down the same top rope i set up, as well as some other configurations. I also enjoy that i can set this device up with a newer climber for rappelling or belaying and feel a little safer because of its catching feature newer climbers feel a little more confident So when i found this I was stoked.

Smart Belay from Mammut
4 5

great idea...

i really like the idea and execution of this device. the only issue is the fact that it doesn't fit with many carabiners. i ended up having to buy an extra HMS carabiner as i didn't have one around. once you get the right setup though this thing starts to become smoother and smoother with a bit of practice. i certainly haven't used this yet for all its applications but i'm impressed so far.

Has anyone used this device to belay a...

Has anyone used this device to belay a climber in guide mode? If so, please share your experience...

Responded on

Harder to pull rope through than similar offerings from petzl or BD...I would stick to one of those over this.

Best Answer Responded on

Be sure to read the instructions (yes, crazy idea) - when belaying in guide mode, do not clip the ropes through the slot as you do normal belaying. The biner that clips the ropes should be outside the device. Hard to explain, so just read the instructions.

Responded on

When rigged properly this device pulls rope smoother than both the reverso or ATC guide from my experience. I have spent a lot of time burning energy pulling rope on top of a climb belaying seconds up and this device from mammut is by far my favorite. It stands a compromise of all the strengths of a gri gri and reverso put into a simple and efficient medium. Watch here at 1 min 34 sec. in this (rather corny) advertisement to see proper set up for belaying from above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U382OtrXTH0

Responded on

This device is WAY easier to take up slack and is better than the ATC Guide in guide mode with the same size rope... If you set it up correctly that is. You NEED to put the biner that captures the rope outside the metal frame of the belay device.

See these instructions from mammut for details on how to set it up on page 11.

http://www.mammut.ch/images/Smart+Alpine+Instructions.pdf

Responded on

The people downplaying its effectiveness in 'guide' mode aren't using it correctly. You need a thick (think barstock not I-Beam) 'biner and it'll feed like butter. Also, it's a lot easier to release than the ATC Guide.

Responded on

Don't listen to the first two responses regarding auto block/guide mode. I've used BD ATC guide, Petzl Reverso 3 and Grigri for belaying from above on multi pitch. The alpine smart is way easier than ATC guide and reverso to pull and even a little easier to pull than the Grigri. It is also way easier to lower than the Guide and Reverso. The Grigri's only advantage is lowering, but it is way heavier, more expensive and still requires another devise to rap. I never use my Grigri anymore. Wish I saved the money. I'm now going to get a Alpine smart for half ropes.