There's no such thing as too smart when it comes to safety.
- An updated design uses the same non-mechanical construction of the original Smart device to pinch the rope during a fall and make for easy catching and holding
- The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering your climber
- The auto-lock option allows a lead climber to belay one or two seconding climbers directly below the anchor
- Device accepts a wide range of rope diameters between 8.9mm and 10.5mm
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Share your thoughts
The best kept secret
I'm not sure why this device isn't wildly popular--it's hands down the best belay device on the market, no questions asked. The smart alpine does everything--assisted braking like a gri gri, full two-rope rappels, and easy lowering. Sure, it's a tiny bit heavier than a BD Guide XP, but with the peace of mind that comes from auto-lock catching when you can't see your partner on a long day and a scary lead, this thing is worth it's weight in gold.
The Best thing since slice bread!!!!!!!!
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
For those of us who don't wish to carry around a heavy, lunky gri gri (mind you, the gri has a place and purpose and I have used them for it) The Mammut Smart Alpine is my swiss army knife of belayness.
With it's autolocking belay feature, especially in the alpine where rockfall is ever prominent, I feel more secure in my belay.
The autolocking feature is also active on Rappel - this is the device's best feature. While rappelling you are able to go hands free (albeit the manufacturer does not say the device can do this, but it has never failed for me) - I don't do it often, as you never should, but when it is necessary to untangle a rope - it's a nice thing to know you are still secure.
I have also used this device alone to jug up a rope to take photos, and to clean route. I have also used it to jug back up over a roof after missing a rap station.
The device also allows to belay from above up to two climbers. This feature, in my own opinion, is often smoother in it's action than the ATC guide! - although the ATC guide is a great belay device in it's own right.
PROS: It's autolocking feature. It's amazing. It isn't a gri gri, but it not only locks while belaying, but rappelling as well. Lightweight, in comparison to other autolocking devices, and it's versatility are amazing- you can't perform a traditional rappel with a GRI GRi and have the autolock feature- you can with the MSA!
CONS: a bit tricky to figure out at first and requires an HMS biner. But these cons are extremely outweighed by the benefits of the device.
Excellent all-around device
- Gender: Female
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I'll admit that this device takes a little getting used to. But once that happens, I would never trade the ability to rappel and go hands-free (no back-up needed), feed out slack to a leader with the bonus of being auto-locking (just in case...), and using the device in plaquette/guide mode on iced up ropes- it is smooth and seems to break ice off of ropes more easily that other devices. Definitely recommended. In the attached photo I'm using the Mammut Belay Sling as well, which makes multi-pitch rappelling even smoother and more efficient.
Good Substitute for a Gri Gri
When I first bought this device I was excited to have a "gri gri" type auto locking device and it worked great with my 10.2 mm rope. However, at the gyms I go to they use larger ropes which jam ALOT and makes it very hard to let down the climber. Overall it is a great device and works well with small ropes and autolocks nicely but it is not a good partner with larger ropes.
Agreat Auto-locking belay device
The smart alpine works great. Gives you the ability to belay and rappel with double ropes, plus you get the safety of auto-lock for both. I did find that it locks up a tad too easily when giving slack to the leader, but more time and practice may eliminate that problem. It is super light and smaller than the picture seems to indicate.
Smart Belay from Mammut
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I have an original Mammut smart belay device and love it, the only thing it was missing was the ability to set it up for dual rope configuration, I like to set up a top rope and climb around the same route for a while and it make it easy for me to rappel down the same top rope i set up, as well as some other configurations. I also enjoy that i can set this device up with a newer climber for rappelling or belaying and feel a little safer because of its catching feature newer climbers feel a little more confident So when i found this I was stoked.
i really like the idea and execution of this device. the only issue is the fact that it doesn't fit with many carabiners. i ended up having to buy an extra HMS carabiner as i didn't have one around. once you get the right setup though this thing starts to become smoother and smoother with a bit of practice. i certainly haven't used this yet for all its applications but i'm impressed so far.
Has anyone used this device to belay a...
Has anyone used this device to belay a climber in guide mode? If so, please share your experience...
It's alright, but get the atc guide.
Harder to pull rope through than similar offerings from petzl or BD...I would stick to one of those over this.
Be sure to read the instructions (yes, crazy idea) - when belaying in guide mode, do not clip the ropes through the slot as you do normal belaying. The biner that clips the ropes should be outside the device. Hard to explain, so just read the instructions.
When rigged properly this device pulls rope smoother than both the reverso or ATC guide from my experience. I have spent a lot of time burning energy pulling rope on top of a climb belaying seconds up and this device from mammut is by far my favorite. It stands a compromise of all the strengths of a gri gri and reverso put into a simple and efficient medium. Watch here at 1 min 34 sec. in this (rather corny) advertisement to see proper set up for belaying from above: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U382OtrXTH0
This device is WAY easier to take up slack and is better than the ATC Guide in guide mode with the same size rope... If you set it up correctly that is. You NEED to put the biner that captures the rope outside the metal frame of the belay device.
See these instructions from mammut for details on how to set it up on page 11.
The people downplaying its effectiveness in 'guide' mode aren't using it correctly. You need a thick (think barstock not I-Beam) 'biner and it'll feed like butter. Also, it's a lot easier to release than the ATC Guide.
Great Product / All Around Use
This is the perfect product for people who want all around protection. When climbing with people who are new to climbing I let them use this because it always catches. This really helps build confidence and trust in their gear as well.
I will recommend this product 100%
Not the Favorite
I love Mammut Products. This belay device works really well for belaying, but the only reason i do not give it full stars is the fact that rappelling with this is a lot of work. The autoblock works! Almost too efficiently when rappelling, it takes a fair bit of strength to keep a smooth rappel going. If you only want to use this for belaying, go for it. That is only what I would recommend it for.
Not a bad alpine investment.
Rapping, guide mode belaying, this little baby slays it. I wasnt very impressed with how it work with a single rope. The rope would occasionally get caught up under the friction panels. Other than that, its pretty sick working with a double rope belay, rap, and guide mode.
super versatile, belays, rappells, autoblocks great. Cant find a compromise. Thought I'd use it for trad and alpine but use it in the gym and at the crags to. once you get used to it you can pay out rope fast without snagging by positioning the nose upward. Catches really well and locks down on the rope. Very safe device. Previous review complained about it being too wide to clip a locking biner into it. Can't figure out what they mean, I use a Petzl Attache and its great.
Great concept, biner size a potential issue
I love the original Smart belay device and had high hopes for the alpine version. Nevertheless, in order to accommodate two rope channels, Mammut had to make the width of this device a bit too wide for some locking biners. If you are belaying with a narrow-ish locker (i.e. Petzl AM'D), the belay device seems to get jammed in the curvature of the carabiner.
With an HMS locker like an Attache(wide pear shaped carbiners) this device fits fine. I imagine this is less of an issue on the smaller Alpine Smart(7.5mm to 9.5mm) but haven't gotten my hands on one to check. As long as you're not using a oval or D shaped locker, you should be fine.