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Simplify your many belays and rappels on big peaks.
- An updated design uses the same non-mechanical construction of the original Smart device to pinch the rope during a fall and make for easy catching and holding
- The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering your climber
- The auto-lock option allows a lead climber to belay one or two seconding climbers directly below the anchor
- Item #MAM0490
- Q & A
Mammut Smart Alpine Belay
Mammut Smart 2.0
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
After having used the original Mammut smart for a couple years, it was a no-brainer to purchase this piece of equipment for those long, multi-pitch, twin rope ice climbs here in Kyrgyzstan. This piece of kit is simply amazing. No moving parts and locks nearly as good as a petzl grigri or trango cinch. Definitely recommended!
Get the functionality of a Grigri for double ropes. It does take a little getting used to and it tends to grab the ropes a bit more than I'd like when paying out slack, but the ability to auto-lock when belaying or on rappel is really cool. I used this with 7.8mm half ropes and it performed great. I did notice that it wouldn't auto-lock on rappel after the ropes were stretched and wet, but it controlled the rappel very well still.
I really do like this device. and is unique in the fact that is can be used as a 'auto-locking' rappel device. Used properly is provides a great safe catch. Some things to keep in mind when you use the Smart/Alpine Smart:
- You will need a HMS style carabiner. That is to say, a pear shaped one. Not D or O shaped.
- Make sure you get the right size Alpine Smart. They make 2. One that accepts 7.5 - 9.5 and, 8.9 - 10.5. The device ONLY works within it's rope diameter ranges! There is no grey area of acceptable rope ranges like on some other devices. Too thick or too thin for the device, and you're going to have a bad time. I suggest the larger size for the gym (if they even allow locking devices.)
"Smart" is an understatement
this thing is awesome. perfect combination of a grigri and a atc guide. locks off quick but can be disabled with a quick flick on the thumb lever for yarding out rope to the leader. the longer release lever give you more control than a gri, and whoever wrote the reviews about it being a horrible rappel device is a bonafide idiot, although its a slightly unnatural technique, it offers more control of speed and still auto-locks for when you've got to retrieve that stubborn piece of gear. uber versatile!!!