Just like magic.
Instead of a bunny, Mammut pulled the Men's Magic Advanced High GTX Boot out of the top hat, and alpinists couldn't be happier. This technical mountaineering boot features Gore-Tex's Performance Comfort waterproofing with the high levels of breathability that highly active alpine ascents call for. Mammut's new Base Fit 2.0 technology improves heel support, safety, precise foot placements, and blister-resistance, while Motion Fit ensures a full range of motion whether you're hiking or climbing.
The Magic Advanced High GTX Boot also features Mammut's 3 Zone Lacing that secures the instep, heel, and cuff with separate laces for a first-rate fit. Memo Foam conforms to the bottom of your foot for customized comfort, and the EVA-Poro and PU wedges work together to take the impact and keep your heel prime for long distances. This hybrid crampon compatible boot also features a Vibram Maton sole with mid-tread depth, grip zones, stability centers, self-cleaning channels, and a raised heel for enhanced breaking on the descent.
- Gore-Tex Performance Comfort
- Base Fit 2.0 technology
- Motion Fit
- 3 Zone Lacing
- -4F temperature rating
- Memo Foam footbed
- EVA-Poro and PU wedges
- Vibram Maton sole
- Hybrid crampon compatibility
- Item #MAM00CB
- Q & A
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
- Size Bought: 12M
I was looking for a good winter training boot at lower elevation 2,000 feet and possibly up to 3,000. It needs to be waterproof and able to support a 50 lb load in addition to my bw of 220. I normally wear a 12 and medium width. My heel lifted but I really wasn't concerned about a technical boot in a soft B3. I just needed something to finish out 36 hours of training before winter. The Lowa Tibet High Top is a monster for heavy loads and breaths well in the summer even with heavy socks, so I hesitate to attempt treatment of that boot for winter. Fitting a boot through the mail could take months so I went with the poorly fitted Mammut Magic Advanced High Top, which does enough well even with a poor fit to merit a review. The boot will support at least a 50 lb load and really shines on uphill traverses even with the load and edging was also good, even with the load. The waterproofing on the goretex wore out after the first couple of days and I didn't have time to dry them thoroughly to refresh them so I went with damp boots to finish out the training, not the most pleasant experience. My sense of the toe point is that it wouldn't be possible to climb more than a couple of meters even with a good fit because of the soft design in the ankle and the ankle could use more padding in the back, but it might be alright for a smaller, lighter climber. So much for my dimes worth of advice after the boot epic. Enjoy the holidays and cheers!
This is just a clarification. The Magic Advanced High is a B3 boot meaning it can accept a C3 type (aka step-in)crampon. It has a full toe welt on the front for the wire bail of the crampon to fit in. Even the backcountry description says it's made for hybrid crampons, so I admit I'm a little perplexed, but I've fitted step-in crampons into the boot and they for snugly. Having said that, of all the "full last" mountaineering boots I've tried, I would say this had average to slightly more than average flex in the forefoot. Of course, flex is a relative term when you're talking serious mountaineering boots, but just know there are stiffer boots out there.
Going Very Well So Far
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: True to size
So far have worn these for a total of 18 hours on moderate ground. My normal boot size is US44.5 US 11 UK10. Fit-wise these are spot on. They are comfortable to wear with no blisters so far. They did however need a few hours of break-in time to become more comfortable. Wear-wise they are going well, my only comment is that the very toe (front) is already very nearly down to the next layer. I will keep watching this aspect. Crampon fit is superb with my BD Sabretooth Clips, probably the best fit of any of my boots. The geometry of the tow is excellent allowing for a great fit. One climb included approximately 3000 ft vertical ascent in crampons on very hard water-rime snow, they handled this very well making this a true mountaineering boot. They are also great on rock (scrambling), and am looking forward to more use on rock terrain as soon as more of last winters snow clears out [am a New Zealand climber, thus the ‘180degress’ difference in season compared to Northern Hemisphere].
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
- Fit: True to size
- Size Bought: 13
The boot is fully rigid along the sole but does have some flex in the ankle. To me, it represents a good compromise between wearability and stiffness. I would choose this boot for situations where actual high angle ice climbing will be limited and the primary concern is travel over technical lower angle terrain (and perhaps with some scrambling/rock climbing thrown in). I used this boot for an ascent of Mount Athabasca (Jasper, CA) via the north glacier route and have no complaints. At the end of the day I was blister free and my ankles felt well supported. There was minimal heel lift, yet the toe box was roomy and gave no problems when kicking into ice. I used this boot with a Grivel Air Tech New-Matic Crampon, though it does have a substantial toe welt, and thus *may* work with a cramp-o-matic style, but I can't say for sure. Feet were dry and warm all day during summer mountain glacier conditions. Boots showed no excess wear.