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The Element Locking Carabiner from Mammut has a bent-gate closure system that makes it easy to clip to bolts when you're hung out twenty feet above your last piece of pro. A key lock nose avoids rope snag.

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Screwgate bad, twistlock good

  • Familiarity:I've used it several times

There aren't a ton of small lockers that are smooth and get the job done well. I've been using BD Positron screwgates for a while, for anything from anchors, keeping a daisy chain on me while canyoneering, belaying with a grigri, and I even made two locking quickdraws for the extra peace of mind while toproping sketchy routes. They're just really useful.

So when I saw these, they seemed really nice. They are almost exactly the same size as the Positron, maybe a TINY bit narrower along the minor axis, and the gate action is mega smooth, think Petzl-smooth.

However, the screwgate version of this biner SUCKS. The gates can't be operated with a quick flick, they stick too much and it feels like they just haven't been machined well. If you really want small locking screwgates, I'd go with the BD positron, they're a dollar cheaper as of this writing, they're anodized, the screwgate is smooth as butter, and I love the shape.

On the other hand, if you go for the twistlock version of this biner, it's fantastic. The twistlock is easy to operate with one hand, it's smooth, and it just works well. Definitely worth the money, especially if you can find them on sale. Although they aren't anodized, the raw finish with red is super sexy, and it says "Made in Italy" across the spine. I really like these twistlocks, they'll be going on my harness for a while, up against the Positrons.

4 stars--3 for the screwgates, 5 for the twistlocks

use these at work

  • Familiarity:I've put it through the wringer

These are one of my favorite twistlocking carabiners just because of the feel of the gate. It's smooth and quick but almost heavy, when you hear it lock into place you feel like you can trust it which is a significant factor in my mental game. Great biner!

Perfect small locker

  • Familiarity:I've used it several times

I carry these for all types of climbing (sport, trad, alpine, and ice) for situations where I want a locker but don't need a larger pear or D (e.g. anchor building, rappel backup, etc.). The small size and light weight makes it so you barely notice 3 or 4 on your rack.

Polished Twistlock

  • Familiarity:I've used it several times

Small enough to fit in one hand. Great for single hand open and close action if the other hand is occupied. Used both for lead climbing and offshore sailing. holds up well to the elements.