2015 Ski Guide2015 Ski Guide

Description

Pockets, edges, jugs and overhangs, oh my!

The La Sportiva Miura VS Climbing Shoe exemplifies a high-performance hook-and-loop closure shoe, and has already garnered an Editor's Choice Award from Climbing Magazine for its edging and pocket grabbing abilities. The Miura VS has amazing edging control and performs well on overhanging terrain thanks to a downturned last and pointed toe. The slingshot rand and power hinge system help the shoe keep its aggressive shape pitch after pitch. From overhanging sandstone to delicate and crimpy limestone face routes, the La Sportiva Miura VS Climbing Shoe's super sticky Vibram XS rubber keeps you glued to the rock as long as your forearms can take it.

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La Sportiva Miura VS Climbing Shoe

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Here's what others have to say...

I wear a size 11.5/12 street shoe and I...

Posted on

I wear a size 11.5/12 street shoe and I currently climb in an size 45 Anasazi. Just about every review on here mentions size and I am not sure what size to get. Does anyone have a recommendation?

Responded on

I wear my Anasazis in 41 and bought a pair of Miuras in 40. Out of the box they feel more geared towards performance over comfort with an aggressive fit and sensitive edge. For more reference, I sized my Anasazis for comfort. I could probably wear the Miruas for a couple of climbs, but because of the out of the box fit, I would most likely take them off between some climbs. Still waiting to fully break them in and stretch.

5 5

Awesome for overhang and edging

I went from using Evolv Defys to these, and I love them. The rubber is super sticky and works great on overhangs and edges. Definitely recommend for an all-around high performance shoe.

How is this as a beginner's shoe? I have...

Posted on

How is this as a beginner's shoe? I have been climbing in gyms for about 3 years and have taken trips to Red River Gorge.Recently I have taken opportunities to go on climbing trips to Colorado and such and I'm needing my own shoes. Would the Miura VS shoes be ok as a beginners shoe or should i stick to something more basic? Any tips?!

Responded on

Garrett,

The Muira VS isn't really a beginners shoe, as it's fairly asymmetrical and downturned. If you haven't worn an agressive shoe of that shape before it's going to take some getting used to. Having said that, if you've been climbing for 3 years (I'm assuming you meant fairly regularly) both indoors and out, are you really a beginner anymore? These shoes will give you precision and stickiness, but they're not bedroom-slipper-comfortable. If you can try some shoes of varying aggressiveness that might give you an idea what kind of shoe you might be looking for.

Responded on

Garrett, I totally agree with Andrea. You are probably ready to move on from calling yourself a beginner, and move into the next level. If that sounds like what you're into, then I think these shoes can certainly help you do that. As has been stated countless times below, yes, these are fairly aggressive shoes and can take some getting used to, but you can get them in a more comfortable size. This sacrifices performance, which some would argue negates the point of buying these shoes.

On the topic of sizing, I'll say this. I was climbing in 42's (LaSportiva Barracudas), tried on a 41 in the Miura VS, which was a good fit and would have likely broken in and turned into a good multi-pitch shoe. However, I was buying agressive and went down to a 40. They hurt like hell for a few weeks and then after the broke in and are now great for sport and gym climbing.

Climb On

4 5

couldn't get the right fit

tried three different pairs of these things through back country and couldn't get the right fit. i've been climbing for about 5 years and even had the back country gear guys helping me out, but they still didn't fit my feet right.

i have wide feet and usually wear five tens which fit perfectly. i suspect that if you have wide feet you may find a similar issue.

other than that, i can tell the shoe would be great if it worked out for me. la sportiva makes bomber products and i have many friends that swear by the velcro miura's.

Jet 7 vs. Muria VS ...

Posted on

Jet 7 vs. Muria VS

Im looking for a bit of a comparison of these 2 shoes. I will be going to a shop for test fit of the Muira, and am currently in the Jet 7 so Im not concerned about sizing them, I just want a performance review.

Cheers guys.

Best Answer Responded on

The Muira has a much stiffer sole and thus is better for edging and longer sport routes. The Jet, as you know, fits a bit funny in the heel - you're either locked in perfectly or it feels weird depending on your foot. The Muira feels much lower profile to me. If I was only bouldering I'd go for the jet but the little hooky toe on the Muira is so very nice for grabbing pockets and the overall stiffness for edging means I like the Muira better. I've yet to find the boulder problem that the Muira can't handle (I'm sure it exists but not in my realm of possibilities), so for me it's the Muira. I also feel like the closure on the Muira allows for a bit more adjustability.

5 5

Yes, this shoe is it!

I've worn them in the gym and on the crag. Killer in both scenarios. Not only does this shoe stick to the tiniest jib and but it's also very durable. You won't be disappointed.

5 5

Amazing

Fantastic design and craftsmanship. Got a slightly too small size, and I'm looking forward to the slightly larger ones. Will update.

4 5

love them but...

ok, ill be the first to tell you that these are amazing shoes. i hate lace-ups, and love the lace-up miura, so when the VS's came out, i was psyched. unfortunately (or my own fault) i have climbed a BUNCH this season and after just one season the velcro is already BLOWN OUT. they don't really even velcro anymore. they are amazing, nonetheless and i would still highly HIGHLY recommend them, for EVERYTHING, but i think they should be using the katana velcro as that stuff still sticks like day 1. anyway, besides that, i think the heel is more sensitive than the solution, which is my other outdoor climbing shoe of choice, and you are able to heel on smaller stuff and still feel really solid. the solution heel is a little thick and stiff (thats what she said) and sometimes makes it hard to feel the hold you're trying to heel hook. ok thats it. even though the velcro wears unusually quick, i'm still gonna get another pair. love them!!!

Hi...is this a unisex shoe? It seems like...

Posted on

Hi...is this a unisex shoe? It seems like mostly men have reviewed it. I wear a size 8 - 8.5 in street shoes. I have very narrow feet, with no arches whatsoever. Would this be a good shoe?

Responded on

There is a womens miura, but not w/ the velcro. This is technically a mens shoe, so I would try it on before buying to see how it fits. It is a performance shoe, so the arch/ assymetrical curvature is high- If you've never worn anything like that, it'll take some getting used to. AWESOME SHOE!!!(if it works for your feet)

Responded on

hi there, i am female and LOVE these shoes. some say it's not quite as narrow as the women's miura (the white ones), and i have those as well, and cant say i feel an obvious difference. i also sized them up, accidentally, by a half size but they are still excellent. sorry, dont think that helped...but i wouldn't be swayed by male/female shoes!

5 5

La Sportiva Miura VS Climbing Shoe

This is the shoe. I've been using Mad Rock for a while and they just dont' hold up so I wanted some decent shoes and tried out a few sportivas and a few 5.10's. I wear an 11 street shoe and the 41.5 fits me super tight (could have gone to the 42 but they will probably be just right in a couple of weeks. I like the shape and find them to be the perfect blend of a sensetive sole and enough support to stand on dime edges. Also really like the toe. The vibram rubber is not as sticky as the science friction 2.0 that mad rock is using, but I think it will prove to be much higher quality over time.

5 5

Perfect

Great Shoe! Thank you Sportiva! I put these bad boys on and I feel like I can climb everything from slab to vertical pockets to overhanging roofs. I have owned the Anasazi's, Pontas Velcro, and Pontas lace-ups and these are by far my favs. I wear a size 9 in street shoes and wear a 41.5 in the VS'. They are snug but not tight.

5 5

Amazing Shoe

If you're looking to step your game up to the next level, and you think better feet might get you there, these shoes might just do the trick. I bought my first pair of aggressive climbing shoes a little over a year ago (La Sportiva Solution) and after getting used to the downturn, tightness, and the stretch that comes with such a tight pair of shoes, I started looking for something thats a little more all-around than the Solution. This shoe edges and smears like crazy, and can be sized for all day climbing or intense sport and bouldering on overhangs. From dime edges to big pockets, these toe in to anything and hold on tight, and though their heel isn't quite as intense as the Solution, they will turn your heel into a 3rd or 4th hand all the same. I wear a size 13 street shoe, and wear my shoes as tight as possible (likely you couldn't get any smaller shoes on if you are a 13), to the level of absurd uncomfort, at a 43.5 (the size difference from a Euro equivalent is sizing down from 48.5 to 43.5, a whole 5 sizes. As an additional note, I take my shoes off immediately after climbing a route or problem). To alleviate the fact that these shoes are velcro, I use the velcro as little as possible to keep the attachment as good as possible. No need to overuse the velcro. I'd recommend these shoes if you are looking for a good aggressive sport climbing shoe. They are well worth the money.

Center Trinity, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Center Trinity, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Posted on

Miah busting a rest about to head into the business. Sporting the Muira VS

5 5

Very Agressive

I got these shoes about a month ago and have no complaints. I typically wear a size 43 in normal shoes but went with a size 41 for these shoes. Very tight but that is how I like them. Always have had good quality from Las Sportiva Products...

5 5

Best shoes I've used so far

I've been climbing for around 3 years and these shoes are great. I've been using them for around 3 months now.

In the past I have used lace up climbing shoes and wanted to try the velcro type. My last shoes were one size too small for my feet and I was in pain wearing them even after 8 months of use. The upside was that I had extreme confidence in my shoes and they gripped to everything.

For these Miura VS shoes I got the correct size. I found that I could strangle my feet as much as I wanted using the velcro, but I could also loosen them as needed to get the perfect fit. I'm now dialed in with these shoes, they grip to everything and are very comfortable.

Now if only I could get my grip to the next level I might be able to finish those 5.11 c/d level climbs without a break.

5 5

La Sportiva is a must pick brand for shoes: This covers the solutions, venoms, and miura VS

I'm a climbing addict. I train for climbing about 6 days a week, whether I'm lifting in the gym, pulling plastic on the wall, or cranking out some weighted pull ups on a hangboard back home. I work at Western Washington's climbing gym, and I've worked at and frequently visited other climbing gyms as well, and I climb outside whenever I get the chance.

This is why I need a hardcore shoe. I put it through absolute PAIN. Sometimes I'm on the wall up to three hours a day, and sometimes I'm projecting some 12's outside for a whole day. Either way, I've always gone with La Sportiva, and this is by far my favorite shoe in their line-up. Here's why:

My first pair of shoes from La Sportiva were the Solutions. They were incredibly sticky and awesome, but I burnt through the rubber extremely fast (about 3-4 months, but keep in mind sometimes I go 15 days on of training at a time without stopping) and lets face it, although the strap system looks cool, it completely blows. It twists easily, it's hard to pull tight, and I've even heard some cases where the metal brackets just break off. Lame. Sometimes you need to pick quality over flashiness, La Sportiva. Bottom line: Outdoors, the solutions were godly. Indoors they were pretty cool, but the rubber doesn't stick to plastic as well as it does to real rock, which is kind of a given, but something to keep in mind. The fit: good, but the strap system blows, so it can never ensure a PERFECT fit.


Next up, I had the venoms. Awesome slipper, adored it for gym and outdoor use, but even though it was downturned it definitely lacked the downturn raw POWER of the solution. And lets face it, it was a slipper. Although some of you may argue that this doesn't matter, it's true; slippers stretch out much quicker, usually anywhere between a half size to a full size depending on the climber and their climbing style, and the way their foot is made. I was not expecting an extremely high performance shoe from a slipper, but the venom definitely delivered. Bottom line: easy access is the best part of a slipper, hands down. No BS straps, no laces, etc. After having the hassle with the solutions, I loved this. They worked just as awesome indoors as outdoors, and the extra rubber for toe-hooking is definitely useful in some situations. Bottom line: definitely not as comfortable as the solution; the leather lining is something you can easily get used to, but at first it's not the greatest thing compared to the nice mesh lining of the solution on the top. Still an all around awesome shoe, but both the solution and the venoms could use improvements.

Lastly, we have my favorite. The Miura VS. This shoe took everything I wanted in a shoe and put it all together. It has almost all the aggressiveness as the solution, but maybe just a little bit less so it's easier to use on vert walls. It has the comfort of the solution, but a solid strap system that doesn't fuck itself up every time you put it on. It's super comfortable, super durable, and just awesome. That's why I'm on my second pair of them right now. This shoe is awesome for anyone that trains in a gym most of the time and then gets to go outside on trips once a month or so. It works great for both, the rubber is sticky, the fit is perfect, it's just awesome. Just one complaint:

On my latest pair, the rubber on the toe is actually kind of separating itself from the shoe. This is not because of the shoe production as a whole....this is because someone fucked up the sanding of the shoe, which pisses me off. When I pay 150$ for a shoe, I expect near perfection or something that doesn't screw up within the first couple weeks or so.

That being said, this TINY separation has not inhibited my climbing ability as of yet. However, it could in the future. If so, I will count on La Sportivas warranty to fix it for me, and I'll let you know how that goes.

Bottom line is that the Miura VS is the best all around shoe you can get from La Sportiva. Probably not ideal for bigwall and long trad routes, but I wouldn't know, I stick to sport and bouldering. If you're looking for a trad shoe, this isn't it. But if you're looking for something that goes well for bouldering and sport, indoors and out, overhanging, roofs, vert, and slab, the miura vs is BOSS.

Responded on

Awesome review man. I was just wondering what did you go with on sizing for the Miura VS's as compared to the Solutions...I wear a 40.0 in the Solutions which was extremely painful at first but stretched out so now it's manageable (Npte: My street shoe size is a 10.5/11). I was thinking of going up a half size Euro on the VS's just because the straps offer more of a chance to get my heel dialed in, whereas the Solutions are basically slippers when it comes to closure systems.

Responded on

I'd go half size smaller than solutions.

Responded on

Can you say tool! "I am so freakin hardcore, I train 6 days a week, I pull plastic, I do weighted pullups." Man you are freakin hardcore. "I work in a climbing gym, and train 15 days straight." I am a workout wonder and "will project 12s for weeks." You are an idiot. You don't need a "hardcore" climbing shoe, you need a freakin brain. If you are actually training that much, you are stupid, you are overtraining and are just going to end up getting injured. If you are training that hard and are projecting 12s for weeks at a time, it obviously isn't doing shit for your climbing.

I have an extremely narrow foot. My street...

Posted on

I have an extremely narrow foot. My street shoe size is 10.5 (42.5-43), I wear a size 41 katana and the velcro straps hang way over the sides of the shoe, they work, but barley. I tried going 40.5 in the katana but they were too painful in the toes while still being nearly as narrow as you could strap them width wise. How does the width of this shoe compare to the katana? Would these shoes work for me?

Responded on

I dont know if someone answered your question already, but I have actually worn both shoes, both size 41. It would be hard for me to say, but if you are looking for a snug fitting, aggressive shoe, I would size down the Muira VSs to a 40.5 I feel like you could fit these smaller than the same size in the Katana. Feel free to drop me any more questions.

Best Answer Responded on

I wear between a 10.5 and an 11 street shoe, and I just tried on a pair of these today. I fit in the 39.5, but I like a tight fit. I'd say 40-40.5 would be perfect.

Responded on

Well first of all, since you have a very narrow foot, you should be looking a different shoe than the katana. You should be looking at the Testarossa or possibly the Miura VS, with the Testarossa being the smallest, tightest fitting, most narrow fitting shoe between Sportiva shoes. They are extremely tight and narrow in the toe box, and the fact that they have laces means you can get them super tight and tiny if you need to, which would be good in your situation with your narrow foot. Also, the heel fits amazing, almost as amazing as the solution. The Miura VS though are a little more of a mid sized toe box shoe. With the velcro though, they have the ability to get pretty narrow and tight. So first look at the Testarossa's, then the Miura VS. Either way, your getting the best shoe in the world. As for sizing, I don't know how the Katana's fit in length, but I can give you some comparison fits so that you can make an educated decision. So I wear a size 14 in athletic shoes, 13-14 in dress shoes, 13 in Fiveten Anasazi's, 45.5 in Solutions, 45 in Testarossa's, and 45 in Miura VS's. So in Miura and Testarossa's, I wear about 2-2.5 down from my street shoe if that helps. Also, I fit my climbing shoes tight with my toes scrunched, but not ridiculous painful like some people. Hope that helps.

5 5

Very Nice

Quite pleased with these. I picked them up to replace a pair of 5.10 Prisms that had overstretched. I compared the VS against the Miura laceup and Evolv's Pontas. My feet are pretty flat, with a low arch and wide front. The Miura laceup had a weird dead space above the toe, and the Pontas was too narrow. The VS just fit my feet perfectly, and had the added bonus of a downturned toe. So far, I've only used them bouldering in the gym, but they have amazing edging and cling to holds on overhangs. In addition, the last is stiffer than my old Prisms, so I'll be able to use them on outdoor sport routes without feeling like every crack is torture.

For sizing, I went with a 41.5 compared to my size 10 (43) street shoe. I also found the "size 0.5 down from Miura" to work. I went to a local R*I to get base sizing off those, then was able to confidently order the VS online.

5 5

miura vs v.s. Scarpa Boosters

Has anyone had both shoes? I have had testorossa and venoms in the past and now im deciding between the boosters and miuras. Two very close shoes please help!

5 5

runs 1/4 size larger than Katana's & Miura Lace Ups

I got these in 38.5, which turned out to be slightly too big. They are also a bit more aggro downturned than the Miura lace ups but nor quite as aggro as the Testarossa's.

For reference, I am a solid 38.5 in wmn's Sportiva Katanas & Miuras lace ups. I am a 38.0 in Sportiva Solutions & 39.0 in Testarossa's. Not that comparing boot sizes help for rock shoe sizing, but FWIW, I am a 40.0 in Sportiva Nepal extremes & 39.5 in Sportiva Baturas. I wear US wms 8.5 in street shoes.

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