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La Sportiva Genius Climbing Shoe

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    5518

    18 Reviews

    Details

    The wheel, the lightbulb, and now the Genius.

    La Sportiva calls the Genius Climbing Shoe its highest performing shoe for boulderers, sport climbers, and overhanging aficionados. The Genius gains its high performance through a No-Edge technology rubber overlay over the toe, which grips on edges and make-believe footholds like they were ledges. This remarkable technology lets you place your feet quicker and more efficiently, without having to readjust because No-Edge feels that good on the first step.

    The Genius also features La Sportiva's mind-bending P3 technology that made the Solution one of the most popular shoes today. P3 uses a Permanent Power Platform to maintain the Genius' aggressive downturn for life. Like the Testarossa, the Genius' heel is surprisingly soft, stretchy, and sensitive for a proper fit as well as solid heel-hooking.

    Vibram gave the Genius its hardest and stickiest XS Grip rubber to match its high performance. The thin sole works with the LaspoFlex midsole to keep the Genius malleable and flexible like most professional-grade high-performance climbing shoes these days. La Sportiva left the upper unlined so your foot can slide into the soft and smooth suede upper, and the microfiber tongue gusset adds soft, lightly padded comfort.

    • No-Edge edging technology
    • P3's mind-bending power technology
    • Suede upper, unlined
    • Comfy microfiber tongue gusset
    • Vibram XS Grip 2 sole
    • Item #LSP005T

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    suede leather, microfiber
    Lining
    unlined
    Closure
    lace
    Midsole
    1.1mm LaspoFlex, P3
    Rubber
    Vibram XS Grip 2 (3mm)
    Last
    slip
    Profile
    aggressive downturn
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    moderate to high
    Claimed Weight
    7.76 oz
    Recommended Use
    climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Smedge like there's no tomorrow

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 39

    I've seen some of the reviews on here saying not to size down these shoes....... lul.... I wear a 9.5/10 street size and opted with the 39. Rather snug the first couple weeks wearing them, but they've stretched a half size to a full size now. You can seriously smear on anything in them. they also edge fairly well. The shoes are very sensitive and you can feel out everything you touch. The one downside (I guess) to that is that it can hurt one's toes. The heel isn't that amazing, but the other pair of shoes i just had came with the s heel, so there isn't really a comparison. All in all, a great shoe that is worth the money. When it comes time to resole i will likely bounce down to a 38.

    good

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 41

    10.5 street shoe
    10 minimalist running shoes
    10 approach shoes
    41 Genius
    40.5 Mythos
    41 Katana lace
    42.5 Python
    41.5 Mura VS
    10 Evolv Shaman
    its true to size for other la sportiva shoes
    lasts longer than shoes with a traditional edge.

    So good

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 40

    Edging awesomeness! The genius are def a solid upgrade from my previous Katanas (also awesome). These fit my feet snug and feel a lot better than the Solutions. I dont heel hook that often outside, but they seem fine when i do. I would not spend the full price for these though. I was concerned about the durability because of the whole no edge concept, but they seem to be holding up well. I had a weird theory that taking out the edge would mean skimping on the rubber. I like the sensitivity you get with the no edge technology. I prefer laces over velcro and was intrigued with these once they came out. La Sportiva yet again makes a solid climbing shoe.

    So good

    One problem...

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've had these shoes for about 5 months, climbing 4-5 days a week. I was super amped to get my hands on a pair of these, all the reviews were great and people were claiming they were La Sportiva's greatest hit. Perviously I had been wearing Solutions and had absolutely no complaints. My initial impression was that it lived up to the hype, fantastic fit and I loved the no-edge technology. As I used the shoes more however I found that the heel was just not cutting it, it would slip off my heal and I felt as though it was a little large and unwieldy. For those of you that say I just get a smaller shoe, believe me I am not a novice climber and already wear my shoes 1.5-2 sizes below my street shoe size. If you are thinking about buying this shoe I would suggest you go and buy the solution instead.

    Futura edge technology, Testarossa fit

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs small

    This shoe seems to work best for me on rock types with more friction. Smears and sloping footholds are easier to toe down on.

    Dime edges and rock with less friction make this shoe feel a bit unwieldy. The toe-hooking rubber is also not what it should be for a shoe this price and build quality. Buy this shoe if you have room for more than one pair!

    Friend Loves Them

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size

    I gave these to my friend for his Birthday. He was between these, the Katanas and the Miura. He mostly climbs the cottonwoods out here in UT and occasional gym. He found these to be high performance, while still being comfortable as well.

    Big on Sensitivity, Wish for Women's

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 39 1/5

    Have only done a handful of boulder problems, tried for overhung with small chips to smears, but am instantly sold on this for the sensitivity I receive. Never have I felt more confident about my foot placements. Had a momentary concern for the tops of my toes on hooks, but the extra layer meant while sensitive I did not experience any excessive discomfort. The heel seems... disappointing with just a slab of rubber over, but have not had to engage a serious heel hook yet.

    My favorite project shoes have been the women's Solutions due to the narrower arch and heel and thinner rubber, but these might replace with a little more familiarity. However, I noticed if never felt a little bunching up near the start of the laces due to how tightly I tie em down, and without being tightly tied there is space in my arch. I seriously hope for a women's version of this because I could not imagine a better shoe than these designed for a narrower foot.

    Genius

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 43

    Awesome shoes! I was skeptical about the no edge thing but it's actually cool because you can toe on smears like dancers: With the tip of the toes instead of trying to use the bottom of the foot.
    I size 43 on Miura VS and went with the same size for this one. 11.5-12 street shoe size

    It's Genius

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 46

    Fit like the solutions but with the added benefit of laces to customize the fit. These shoes are sensitive but supportive at the same time, they stick to the tiniest ripple in the rock. I have only used these shoes outside (I refuse to use them in a gym their to nice) but have been very impressed with the performance of these shoes and they have become my go to shoe. Just to clarify I own 10 pairs of climbing shoes (LS Solutions, LS Katana Lace, LS Pythons, LS Cobras, LS Futura, Tenaya Oasi, Teneya Tarifa, Evolv Shaman, LS Mythos) and I use them for different things but the Genius is my go to shoe of choice for most hard climbs.

    I guess their okay....

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    But seriously, these shoes are awesome. They don't perform perfect on plastic, but on real rock they're amazing. Still, don't think they aren't good in the gym. I found they slip on those glass smooth holds, but other than that, perfect. The heal is very solid, and sensitive. No need to go into anything else, everyone else is spot on.

    Now on to sizing...
    I wear a 43.5 in solutions
    44.5 TC pro(comfy)
    44s for performance
    I got the same size as solutions, and they fit perfect. The nice goldilocks medium between super tight, and loose. You need a tiny bit of room for your toes to flex to really let the no-edge blossom

    Albert Einstein Status

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 44

    As many others have commented, the Genius' being made from the same last as the Testarossa, with the downturn of the Solution, and the No-Edge technology of the Futura, seems to give these shoes a Frankenstein's Monster type of quality, but in a lovable way. Despite the fact that multiple people have opted to size down (even from their previous LaSportiva shoes), I ultimately ended up going with the same size I wear in the Futura and the Solution, with great success. Despite the fact that the Genius' do stretch a fair bit, the lace up option makes it easy to tighten the shoes to a comfortable level. Having worn the Solutions, the Testarossas, and the Futuras though, I would say they size most similarly to the Futura. The Genius also has a similar feel to the Futura in terms of flex, softness, and stretch. FInally, in concluding the similarities to the Futura, the Genius' No-Edge technology is wonderful for smearing on small holds and stepping on before unseen rock crystals. That combined with the P3 technology originally from the Solution allows you to boulder or sport climb on basically any terrain from the most overhanging cave to the most treacherous slab.

    A note of warning though, while this shoe seems like it may be plausible to use for long multi-pitch days, it has been known to cause major foot cramping. Although it is a very comfortable shoe, especially compared to something like the Solution, the aggressive downturn still can be a bit too much to sit in for many hours at a time. Thus, I would most recommend this almost solely for bouldering and single pitch sport climbing . (You might get away with a few 3-4 pitch climbs if you are bold).

    Ultimately, if your feet fit LaSportiva shoes well, definitely look into this shoe, as being the Genius that you already are, you know that this shoe will help you crush harder grades and walk away feeling like you've mastered physics. Kind of like a contemporary Einstein, but with better grades.

    If you're looking into climbing shoes and need a recommendation, feel free to reach out to me. I have climbed in most La Sportiva shoes on the market and many others as well!

    I’m typically in the office Monday-Friday and would love to talk, but if you call and I’m not in, make sure to leave the best number to call you back at or your email address in the voicemail.

    Contact information:

    Email:dgoodman@backcountry.com

    Phone: 801-204-4680

    Albert Einstein Status

    On point!

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 40.5

    They are truly a fantastic climbing shoe. They have as much aggressiveness and downturn as the Solution while maintaining a light, sensitive, and comfortable design. The no edge concept makes smearing and standing on micro feet much easier, while the downturn provides for excellent heel hooks and power on overhanging routes. They have to be one of the best designed climbing shoes on the market today!

    Feel free to contact me with any questions or to place an order. I would be happy to provide you with a personalized experience here at Backcounty!

    Hope to see you out there!

    Hey Boglins,

    I would suggest sizing the same as you did for your Solutions. My friend did just that, and finds (in his opinion) that they fit very similar.

    Feel free to contact me with any questions or to place an order. I would be happy to provide you with a personalized experience here at Backcounty!

    Hope to see you out there!

    What is the Genius?

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: EU40

    Contrary to belief, the Genius is not a "Lace up Futura". The shoe has a midsole (which gives more support and stiffness overall) where the futura does not. The shoe also has this heel thats half solution, half futura heel. Its not too soft and slick like the futura but not as thick and knobby like the solutions. I also found that the genius is a bit higher volume in the toe box (not as bad as the pythons, but its there) which makes the wondrous toe patch a looser when toe hooking. I also don't think this shoe works as well on plastic as it does on real rock (I've only used it one Granite, Volcanic and Sandstone). But I've been using soft sticky stealth HF before I got the genius. I don't think I'm loving this shoe so much because it is a bit baggier on me compared to the futuras, but its still is a no edge shoe so :).

    What is the Genius?

    Actually, Rich, the Futura does have a midsole. The Speedster does not. The Genius is built on the PD85 last (as is the Speedster), which is the same as the Testarossa, which is quite wide in the toe box, whereas the Futura (and Python) is built on the PD75 last of Miura "fame", and is much narrower. I found that while I wear a 43.5 in the Futura, and they're painfully tight, I have to wear the Genius in a 42.5 to be as effective.

    Haha I'm not sure which is the midsole then, according to La Sportiva's Tech Sheet: (http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/climbingapproach/futura), the Futura only has the Laspflex Midsole in the toe box, with P3 (the PD75). But I can defiantly feel that the Genius is not as soft as the Futura. I've also found that the testarossas are painfully pointy/narrow for my foot, where as the genius are not. As for sizing, I guess to each his own. I've only been climbing for 1.5 years and with each shoe, I've been going down 1/2 size, haha. Whereas I have a friend who has been climbing for 7 years, has the same foot size (when put next to each other) but uses EU37 Sportivas. Maybe I should of said it has more of a midsole, rather than no midsole.

    I've actually found that the Genius is much softer than the Futura. Despite having a more pronounced midsole, the width of the Genius toe box allows me to flex all of my toes, whereas the Futura crams my toes into a smaller area, something I actually prefer. The Futura feels more precise to me, even though the Genius fits my foot better. The Testarossa has the same wide toe box as the Genius, but being a shoe with an edge, and a pretty sharp point, I see what you're saying, however, as it does have laces, and you can lace the front looser than the mid and upper foot and you'd be surprised with what you see. The softest (and most sensitive, by a mile) is the Speedster. Bummer they no longer sell it here.

    No-Edge resoles

    The crew at Rock and Resole in Boulder CO have No-Edge resoles for the Genius, Futura, and Speedster. They do an amazing job!!!
    www.rockandresole.com

    No-Edge resoles

    Great shoe if sized right!

      Definitely an incredible shoe, if you size it right. I made the mistake of order half size below that of my normal street shoe. While with most climbing shoes this is the correct way to size, it inhibits the abilities of these shoes. The no edge works incredibly, however you need your foot to be snug but not tight fitting for it to work. DO NOT think tighter is better. By downsizing my shoes I removed my foots ability to flex with the shoe, this has Intern ruined much of the benefits the shoe would offer. I would buy these again in a heart beat! I just would get the right size next time.

      Great shoes

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
      • Fit: Runs large
      • Size Bought: 40

      I decided to order half size down from Testarossa and they fit very well. The Genius is snug but not too painful. My feet are wider than other people so the lace system helps a lot. But the lace is very narrow so the rubber cover all big toes and makes the toe hook feel better than testarossa. My heels also fit better in the Genius compare with Testarossa I think because they have more rubber and stiffer. I've never tried Futura or no edge shoes before but the Genius is super sticky and I can feel all my toes.

      I tried them at the gym and bouldered with all different footworks from heel hook, toe hook, sharp edges and I can feel the switch feet is now much easier. I worn them the next day, sport climbing at the crag all day and they did not feel painful until the end of the day. Couple of my friends tried on and they love them too.

      Hi, what's your street size shoe? I've used Sportiva's foot measuring tool, and am around 41. Have tried on Miura's and Solutions at the store and 40.5 feels good -- though there's a bit of a hot spot along my toe knuckles for one feet, which I assume would go away as the shoe stretches? (41 feels a teeny bit loose). What size would you rec for these?

      Thanks!

      I just got these and I would size them the same as solutions. According to my foot (flat and wide), my solution size = futura size= genius size. I have the futuras and demoed the solutions but the solutions are too stiff/insensitive for me after using the futuras. My futuras did loosen up but I didn't feel that they became too baggy. These also have laces vs the solution/futura's fast lacing system so that should help with a looser shoe. Here are my other shoe sizes to help you decide:
      Shamans USM 9
      Blackwings USM9.5
      Teams USM10
      Muira VS EU40.5
      Futura EU40

      Larry Next Level

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times
      • Fit: True to size
      • Size Bought: 37

      Admittedly, I’ve been waiting for these shoes to come out ever since I bought a pair of the La Sportiva Futura in the spring of 2014. I loved the soft and aggressive Futura but for me, the toe for was a bit cramped and yet my heal slipped on even mildly demanding heal hooks so I was looking forward to the same shoe in a lace up. Almost immediately, I knew that the Genius would be my go to shoe.
      As soon as I could, I bought a pair of the Genius and they did not disappoint. The fit of this shoe is precise; meaning the toe box is more comfortable and the heal on this shoe is sturdier yet the sole remains soft. As for the new edge technology, I’m a fan. The No Edge allows you to become very intimate with challenging foot holds while not being totally accurate.
      In terms of sizing, I’ve only worn a 37 in all La Sportiva climbing shoes.
      Finally, (and on a very superficial level) the shoe looks really good. The red, yellow and black design are dope-boy fresh and I’ve been getting lots of compliments at the gym and crag.
      If you’ve been a fan of La Sportiva shoes, I’d recommend picking up a pair of these bad boys. They’re worth the price if you’re planning on using them on harder boulders or sport routes and will definetly help you step up you’re climbing game. That’s why I’ve named my paid of Genius’s “Larry Next Level."

      Hi, I am having a hard time deciding the size for me between 36 and 36.5. My street shoe size is 6.5. You have more or less the same height and weight as me, so your input is appreciated. What is your street shoe size? Does (unlined) Genius stretch in your case? Thanks! PS: I own a Katana lace with size 36 and it fits me very well. I think there was only very little stretch if any at all in Katana in my case.

      Like the Futura, only better

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
      • Fit: Runs large

      I've used these on a few boulder problems, and they're amazing. I love the way my Futuras feel for everything except heel hooks. These feel even better on my foot (something to do with the liner, combined with perfect tension the laces provide), and heel hook like a champ. There is more material around the heel, so straight on hooks feel more comfortable, and heel hooking from the side is more stable.

      Bottom line, if you like the Futura, get these - they take what's great about my previous favorite shoe, and make it even better.

      Oh, and they feel like they run just a slight bit larger than the Futura. I sized down an extra half size, and while I eventually decided it was too small, it was only barely.

      I wear a 43 in the Mythos. Tried these on in a 42.5, and they were snug, borderline too tight. Would you suggest sizing up to 43, or sticking with the 42.5? These will be my more aggressive/bouldery shoes

      They're supposed to fit more snugly than something like a Mythos, but you don't want them to be painfully tight. I used to coach, and my policy was that if you can move your toes (both up/down and forward/back) without moving the shoe, they're too loose. I'd stick with the 42.5, but ultimately it's your call.

      Unanswered Question

      I just received this and I'm trying to figure out if I picked the right size for me. I normally wear 41 on Testarossa, breaking in was painful on these shoes but after some use I love how they fit and the performance. I ordered 41 for the Genius as well and right out of the box feel snug but not extremely tight, they actually seem quite comfortable compared to the testarossas. How much does the Genius stretch? Im just debating if I should downsize to 40.5 on the Genius. Based on previews reviews, it seems like this shoe would perform better if not extremely tight?. Any help would be greatly appreciated!. BTW I love my testarrosas but can't wait to try these ones.

      How much do you recommend these for face climbing or slightly overhung? I have miura vs, should I order the same size? Thanks mates.

      Best Answer

      I downsized 1/2 size from my Muira VS size due to the shoes softness. Like most downturned shoes, this is pretty good on overhangs. As for slabs, you wouldn't be edging anymore but rather "smedging". The shoe is so soft that the toe just conforms around the rock, rather than lining up the traditional edge perfectly and edging. It will work your foot a lot more and will take a lot of time to get used to if you're not used to using a soft shoe. I started out with the Futuras and when I tried the Muira VS, I felt like I couldn't feel anything and just got rid of them. I've only had these for a month, but I did use my futuras for all types of terrain. When the shoe breaks in, it feels so good that I don't need to take them off during my gym sessions. Hope that helps!

      Do you know when you will have any 42.5 in stock? Is there a way that you can notify me when you do?

      Any ETA on when size 41.5 will be back in stock? Thanks guys.