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Faster, lighter, safer.
The Grivel Helix SPD Ice Screw has an integrated sling that allows you to climb quicker and with a lighter load. This makes protecting your pitch easier and faster, reduces the chances of dropping gear, and saves you the weight of a carabiner on every single piece. Unlike most ice screws, all of Grivel's screws have reversed threads that increase their resistance against extraction for superior strength that you'll appreciate when you're on the verge of falling. Like the standard Helix ice screw, the Grivel SPD includes a large knob that makes placements easier, even in the hardest bulletproof ice.
- Symmetrical grip
- Large knob on grip
- Reversed thread design
- Item #GRV0081
- Q & A
Can't use as advertised
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I have 2 of these on my rack. One helox and one 360. Short and medium lengths with short and medium length dyneema. You can't screw it all the way in without the draw spinning around. This is enraging because this is supposed to be the fastest piece on a climber's rack (an oh cr*p piece). Instead it takes 2 hands, or a bunch of yanking to make it sit properly. The design of the draw mount sticks out into the ice, which causes it to get stuck in weird positions. I love grivel gear, and I have tons of positive reviews of the screws WITHOUT the draw. Bottom line, get some helix's and some draws.
Poorly attached sling
While the screw itself seems to be performing just fine I have found the sling attachment quite disappointing, mostly because of how the black plastic ring is rather tightly fitting the screw tube. This causes two issues:
First, the crank arm is freely wiggling on the screw tube, not staying strictly perpendicular, so it tends to catch on the bulge where the sling is attached to the ring. (You can even see this happening on Grivel's own promotion video clip.) If the ring was loose then this would not be happening nearly as much.
The other problem is that if the sling is either completely unweighted or the direction of any pulling force is not perpendicular to the screw tube then the ring tends to lock up on the screw tube. (This is easy to demonstrate by trying to turn the screw while pulling mildly on the sling at 45-60 degrees away from the screw.)
Both issues cause the ring to turn with the screw, as opposed to spinning freely, ultimately winding the sling (and the carabiner, and the rope) onto the screw tube like a winch. A frustrating experience.
You can skip the main touted benefit of the integrated sling and treat Speedy like a regular screw by not having the rope attached when placing or removing it, which means that the sling with the carabiner are now "just" rotating around, without any winding effect. The only remaining value of Speedy is then the weight saving over a traditional quickdraw setup, which I am not sure is worth the extra cost.
What? No need to hook in a quickdraw? Sure! Why not just screw it in, clip the rope and go! This is a very solid screw with a solid interface. The handle is easy to manage with thick gloves and the draw is just fine for a typical clip. The variable draw lengths makes shopping for these a little bit difficult, but if you can find a satisfactory size or combination of sizes, you're in business.
How to Place an Ice Screw with Stephen Koch
Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.
Just curious if this screw actually comes...
Just curious if this screw actually comes with the carabiner pictured, or if it is just included in the picture purely for example. Any answers out there?
The Grivel Helix SPD does come with the pictured carabiner.
in the dropdown you have 10 20 30 - is...
in the dropdown you have 10 20 30 - is that the length or a part number? the description has 12 16 20 for lengths. thanks
actually, the "short" "medium" "long" refer to the length of the screw (12, 16, and 20cm long screw respectively), and the 10 20 30 refers to the sling length (in CMs)