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The G3 Targa Ascent Telemark Binding—less leg fatigue, less binding wrestling, more fresh tracks.

With the G3 Targa Ascent Telemark Binding, you'll be powering through backcountry hikes and steep powder descents. When in touring mode, the Ascent Binding's toe plate pivots on a stainless steel axle to promote a natural and efficient stride, and a pole-activated climbing heel pops up easily, so you're not left behind as you wrestle with climbing wires. Once you're ready for the descent, simply flick the front switch to convert the lightweight Targa Ascent Telemark Binding from tour to ski mode. As you snorkel through the pow, a sturdy retention bar secures this G3 binding in place, and the compression spring cartridges give you power and control.

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Here's what others have to say...


Lightweight setup, does not hold up to much

    I have skied this binding for two seasons now. They were alright my first season, but now I am using a new pair of boots (BD Seeker), and have broke two cables and a third is almost ready to pop. it was not on the same foot, or even in the same place. One foot broke at the hinge point by the toe piece, the other broke at the point going into the cartridge. The third one is stressed above the toe piece by the hinge point.
    Tension was checked at the local shop, both guys said it felt just fine. Not sure what the issue, if the boot / binding pairing just does not work or what. I do not have much faith with them in the back country now.

    I've had these bindings for 3 seasons now and I've had no problems ever. I usually destroy my skis and bindings buy these have held up day after day. Never replaced a cable, or broke anything. It's time to replace my cables finally as I've worn through the rubber sheath and starting to fray the cable but really, I have no complaints whatsoever. They just work like they're supposed to. Great on ascents, no noises and solid on the hairiest of descents. Maybe I got a good batch but these are the best cable bindings I've ever had.


    Aluminum Ascent breaks

      If you buy these, get the stainless steel ones, not the aluminum ones. Today my right binding plate split as I was kneeling to put on the left ski. As it split, it also pulled out one of the front mounting screws from the plastic binding frame/riser, busting this part, too. I am only 5'5", 132 ills, and 65 y.o. In 55 years skiing only once before have I broken a binding, and guess what: also a G3. That one was a stainless steel G3 Targa (not the ascent) mounted on XC skis. The rivets which attach the cross bar to the main plate had inadequeate heads and pulled free. G3 replaced that binding. My skiing buddy breaks G3 cables. Not reliable.

      Aluminum Ascent breaks

      Aluminum Ascent breaks

        If you buy these, get the stainless steel ones, not the aluminum ones. Today my right binding plate split as I was kneeling to put on the left ski. As it split, it also pulled out one of the front mounting screws from the plastic binding frame/riser, busting this part, too. I am only 5'5", 132 ills, and 65 y.o. In 55 years skiing only once before have I broken a binding, and guess what: also a G3. That one was a stainless steel G3 Targa (not the ascent) mounted on XC skis. The rivets which attach the cross bar to the main plate had inadequeate heads and pulled free. G3 replaced that binding. My skiing buddy breaks G3 cables. Not reliable.

        Aluminum Ascent breaks

        Serious icing problems

          These were my first tele bindings that have the touring mode. I love the idea of it but the switch to change them to ski mode always ices up. My last tour it was perfect powder and I had to ski down in tour mode because a was unable to switch over. I've tried just about everything from silicone spray, to wd40, to pouring water over them. I will not ever buy another pair!

          If you have some hot tea.... Pouring that over the front will probably work to loosen it. PLus you have to poke the ice out of the little connector under the plate with a knife, or something. It's devilish when you start off with fairly warm temps aNd go up into the alpine where it's colder. Next BC trip I'm going to try bringing a little bottle of antifreeze to spray on it. Oughta fix it quick. It's a real pain though, Poor design, and potentially risky. Hope this helps a bit.


          Cilmbing beast!

            I've had the Ascents for four years now and have logged on almost a hundred ski days with them. No mechanical failures and the bindings still function like new. I ski about 70% backcountry and 30% resort (hey, gotta practice turns before hitting the couloirs) and although they don't look beefy, they've always responded beautifully when dropping some parallel turns on steep terrain. I'm driving these with G3 Reverends (93mm waist) and Scarpa T2X...pretty mainstream. Yes, on my version, the heel lifts would fall down occasionally, but there's a counterintuitive fix: lubricate the heel pivot joint with some bike chain oil. then the elastic can oversome the friction of the joint and will stay in the contracted (up) position.


            Ascent with grief

              Bought my ascents three seasons ago and just got tired of the heel climber collapsing every few steps. Haven't used them since 09. Just what you want in your gear... hassels. Leave these alone until they figure out the obvious. Someone at G3 should take up telemark skiing...


              A million problems and a fix for each one

                They break all the time. "Just carry extra cables!"
                There's rocker launch. "You can get a wedge!"
                They're not very powerful. "It must be your boots!"
                They ice up. "Just carry a knife!"
                They're squeaky as hell. REEE REEE REEE every turn. "oh come on you get used to it"

                Howbout you just buy bindings that don't suck?


                It'll Do For Now

                  I had wanted to get a touring Tele binding for about two seasons and found them necessary to have once I moved to the Rockies of Colorado. I only have one season under the belt on these bindings and have snapped a cable already. They do ice up pretty easy when in touring/ free pivot mode. The cables rub a bit on the toe end as it comes off the edge. But overall they have done the job but I won't be getting another pair on any ski I purchase in the future.

                  where do you get the metal plate that locks...

                  where do you get the metal plate that locks the heel lifter into climbing mode? Is there way to switch the heel lifter from high climbing mode to low mode without taking off the ski?

                  Call up G3 or send them a message and they might be able to send some out to you. The lifter heal just flips back down, I use my ski pole to push it back down.


                  Not Happy with these in the SIerras

                    I am 6'1" weight 200 and ski t2 boots on Rossignol T4 skis. I have 3 continually recurring problems with these bindings.

                    1. Freezing up. I have tried H20-Proof grease, & white lithium grease to keep the ice from clogging 2 locations in this binding. Both ice up way too often.

                    Location A: Icy build up in front of the latch which moves forward to lock the binding in downhill mode. Location B: icy built up between the bar and the bottom of the toe plate that the latch moves into. Between those 2 locations, I almost never get to the top of a mtn without having to kick off my skis to dig out the ice.

                    Complaint #2 The climbing lifts don't stay up. These climbing lift fall back down way too easy. When there is lots of heavy snow falling on the ski while climbing steep slope, I often can't get more than 5-10 steps without the climbing lift falling down.

                    Complaint #3. I am only on my 2nd season of using these binding and the joint which enable the toe to pivot is getting loose. I can wiggle the bindings left<->right way more than I like. It is also a little loose in the vertical direction. It makes me nervous that it will fail soon.

                    Quick question. Sell my Targa G3 ascents...

                    Quick question.
                    Sell my Targa G3 ascents and buy the 22 Designs Hammerhead?
                    Targa g3 ascents are barely used...

                    Best Answer

                    If you bought the Ascents from, you should return 'em for a full refund, and get some
                    Axls (for touring) or Hammerheads (resort mostly.) You will not regret it.

                    Enjoying the view in Italy

                    Enjoying the view in Italy

                    Two people on the left riding on G3 Targa Ascents


                    Broken cables for birthday.

                      I broke three cables on these bindings in less than a season. My spring pre-tension wasn't too tight, so that's not what did it. I have size 29.5 boots, and routed the cable straight through the toe box. I think this might be the issue. After the third cable broke on my birthday, I talked to the guys at 22 Designs. I was working at Targhee at the time and they hooked me up. Best bindings ever. The change was incredible. My first day skiing on Hammerheads forever changed my skiing for the better.
                      It's not that G3's are terrible, it's just that the Hammerheads are soooo much better. Don't even mess around with anything else. Hammerheads all the way!

                      Anyone have much experience with this...

                      Anyone have much experience with this binding as a predominantly front-side binding? How does the lateral stability compare to other bindings (e.g., a Hammerhead)? I am looking for a binding to give as a gift to an intermediate telemark skier that rarely ventures outside of the resort.

                      Best Answer

                      I would suggest trying a simpler binding first. The lateral stability is good, similar to hammerhead or any other cable system but not as good as say an NTN system. Tons of people use them on piste, never heard a complaint.. The touring function however puts the toe fairly high above the ski and will compromise a bit of edge stability especially with an intermediate skier. The basic G3 targa or BD 02 might be a better

                      Lateral stability is not even close to a Hammerhead. Get hammerheads and use them in Position 3. As you get better, try 4 and 5. Hammerheads are lighter, too. Hammerheads will take you to new level in your skiing. They won't disappoint. I can't say enough to tell you what a superior binding the HH is to the Ascent. If you want broken cables and floppy heels, get the Ascent. If you want to caharge hard, lay out smooth lines with confidence and style, then get the Hammerhead or Axl.

                      So I got these bindings and mounted them...

                      So I got these bindings and mounted them on an older pair of tele skis. Just recently I went out and bought some bad new BD's...which I mounted the old bindings on. Now I want to switch the bindings back and forth between the skis. Is this possible? Or will it compromise the structure of the ski. Should I re-fill the holes with wood glue every time I switch the bindings?

                      This is NOT something i would recommend doing. if this is something you truly wanting to do i would look for mounting plates and then switch with those. all this said, i would make a choice. have one ski you want to tour on and one ski you want to ski in bounds.

                      You can switch the bindings a few times, if you are very careful to not strip the threads (maybe 2-3 times before the threading is toast). I would NOT use wood glue, but rather use epoxy. Wood glue just does not hold as well and rots out with repeated water exposure. Epoxy is a pain in the ass when you need to change the binding (you must head the screw heads), but it will hold much better than wood glue.

                      Don't mount skis using epoxy. It will make pulling the screws out much harder when you want to put those binders on another ski. It won't make it so that you can switch bindings repeatedly. Also, using epoxy won't lessen the chances of a binding ripping out in the event of a serious fall/crash, etc. Every shop tech I've talked to says wood glue is enough. All you're trying to achieve with glue is to keep moisture from getting in the core and rotting it out. Wood glue is better for that than epoxy.


                      Buy Voile Switchbacks

                        These are not my first choice for free pivot bindings. I thought these bindings were ok until I skied the Voile Switchbacks they are far and away better then the Ascents.

                        Ok, but why do you prefer the Switchbacks? I heard the metal rods help to transfer more power the the skis on the downhill, but is this sufficient when choosing a touring binding? I look at the Switchbacks and I find they look... cheap. They don't seem to pivot smoothly at all on tour mode, and the ski/tour mechanism seems like it will "switch back" to tour mode while I'm skiing down.

                        Better Yet. Switchback X2. Check out this review:


                        less than stellar

                          The first season I had my G3 Targa Ascents, I was a girl in love. The switch from touring mode to ski mode occurred without a hitch and I loved the freedom of the full pivot binding- genius!

                          Little did I know the honeymoon would end in season #2. This season these bindings have frozen up, gotten stuck, and have been a pain to switch into ski mode on almost every single tour I've done. One tour I was forced to ski parallel down in tour mode because the switch was so completely jammed. Now the knife I carry is more for chipping ice/soft snow out of the bindings than for slicing cheese at lunch.

                          It makes me wish I bought the BD bindings, unless someone has a tip out there for making the slide mechanism less susceptible to freeze.

                          Write your comment here...Dear Kathleen, do not despair! Like you I had more than annoying trouble with my ascent bindings icing up. The can opening tool on my knife was the essential tool to switch from climb to ski. I still carry my knife but never us it on my bindings. In my work we commonly use dry lubricants to protect the performance of running hardware on boats. These lubricants are safe on plastic or metal and are designed to enhance the working characteristics between them. The product I prefer is marketed by the Harken company its named Mclube. Its available in a small spray can handy in the wax bag for travel. I did carry this with me all season fearing the dread freeze up which never came. This single treatment at the beginning of last year endured early trips to our beloved Olympics (strangest snow on earth),to a three week trip in the Kooteneys, and then a spring finish in the Cascades. You can see that the remedy worked in all kinds of conditions and temperatures. So do not shop for new bindings,(sorry backcountry)! Mclube is also known as "sailcoat". You can obtain Mclube at most marine hardware stores wherever Harken gear is sold. It is very popular in dingy racing. If you are having trouble finding it I can send it to you. You can reach me at . This should solve in my opinion the only major complaint against the G3 ascent binding. As my canadian friends would say "Enjoy".

                          Has G3 fixed the problem with the heel...

                          Has G3 fixed the problem with the heel lifter from falling down when hiking? Ascent binding.

                          Best Answer

                          Yes, they have a metal plate included that allows the heel lifter to "Snap" in place which prevents it from falling.

                          I have the version with the metal plate. My left heel lifter still falls down when hiking in deep snow. Anyone got a solution?

                          Is there a womens and mens version of this...

                          Is there a womens and mens version of this binding?

                          No. In order to make the cables shorter for shorter boots you can loop them underneath the toe-plate.