Technical climbing doesn't mean your feet should suffer.
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Share your thoughts
I upgraded to these from Evolv K-Laces, and immediately saw a huge difference. The K-Lace is an edging shoe, as is this, yet I went a full size bigger on these, and get better performance. They are super comfortable, allow great edging, and I can also smear. I ordered them true to size, and they fit great. I am so in love that I just bought another pair to stick in my closet for later (why not at 55% off?).
on select options, does it show man's size? i am a women who wear size 8 shoes; so, i should choose 6.5 on select option?? can anyone give me some idea how it work? thank you.
what kind size is it on the options? US Men, US Women...
can someone help me?
The sizes are European... its a little confusing, but it helps you get a better fitting rock shoe.
These are my first pair of climbing shoes and I think they're perfect. I have narrow feet and a narrow heel and the shoes fit snug and don't slip. I did have to order a half a size bigger than my street shoe size because they run a bit small.
Definitely a great all-around shoe. I've been bouldering and top roping in the gym and they work great. They're comfortable too so they don't kill my feet after a climb. I can wear them for a couple hours before I feel like I wouldn't mind taking them off.
i measure my foot and it measures 10 inches long at the longest point. What size should i order?
It has a unique design that I really like and a strong toe that will probably last a while. They also curve your foot a little more than I thought they would, which I like, but might not be as great for people that don't like this.
I usually wear a Men's US 8.5 sneaker, and found size 9.5 to be the best fit. Love the looks of the shoe
I've recently got back into climbing and found that I had the need and the money to replace an old pair of Five Ten Spires that I had. I wanted something a bit more aggressive and I liked my first pair of Five Tens, so I decided to go with the Prism. Here are my impressions after trying them on and using them at the gym for one day.
PROS: I like that these are lace up and the toe looks sharp and killer! I think these will help me take my climbing up another level.
I thought it might be slightly difficult to smear, but it was surprisingly easy. I was impressed.
CONS: Sizing on these is crazy! Main reason for marking them down to 3 stars. It's almost as if Five Ten doesn't want you buying their products off the internet. I wear 9.5/42.5 in almost all brands and shoes that I have worn. However, my last pair of Spires was a size 8 (full leather so they stretched). So I originally ordered down. Way too small. I eventually returned and got 9.5s, but even these are a bit small. I think/hope they will stretch enough to be perfect.
I wouldn't fool myself into thinking that the special Perflex upper is going to 'ventilate' my foot though. Unless 'ventilate' means 'turn into a sweat box'. And it doesn't take long either, maybe 30 minutes for me.
CONCLUSION: Disappointed by the sizing scheme, but impressed by the performance so far. Overall I would give it 3 stars at this point.
Just got these in the mail today... haven't climbed in them yet, but I am excited to get on the wall and see how this "patented technology" works.
Some out of the box observations: Check out my long and completely unnecessary review under the 5.10 Project shoe. Basically, I am completely confused by 5.10's sizing. However, for these, you could probably stick with your street size (as opposed to the 5.10 Project, in which I had to order 2 full sizes larger, a 10 1/2). I wear a 9 - 9 1/2 street, and ordered the Prisms in 9 1/2 on a whim off TheClymb. They fit snugly, and I can really only wear them for about 20 minutes at a time right out of the box, but I am expecting some light stretching (these are, however, synthetic uppers.. so I'm not expecting a full size stretch).
Other observations: The uppers on these feel amazing on my feet! They are sort of an almost suede softness, and literally hug the upper half of my feet like a glove. I am really liking the feel so far. Also, I am excited to try out that nasty pointed toe (kind of hard to see in the pictures, but the toes come to a nice point in front of your big toe).
All in all, I am psyched to try these out. I will try to update my review as I go along!
I've owned these shoes for two years, and cranked some long, hot days at the Gunks and pulled quite a bit of plastic on these. I'm on my second resole. My thoughts:
Sizing: Women's 9.5, bought a EUR 41. I wish I owned a half size larger than I bought, as the size tends to get painful for me after your feet swell or after a mere 3-4 pitches. They've become my indoor shoes unless its 40-55F out, and I'm considering buying a larger pair for outdoor use.
Shoe: The Synthetic upper, while great because it doesn't stretch, doesn't really let your feet breathe either, which can be a drag. The fabric is doubled up, which unlike the sirens and gambits prevents them from stretching a lot. If you don't pull the tongue out and let these babies air out, you will get stinky shoes.
Rubber: Onyxx rubber rocks, it edges and smears great. The original rubber cracked down the rand in the front of the toe "point" in about 3 months of climbing, but the first resole lasted a year after that. The rand rubber also seems to take a lot of abuse, every resole i've had required a rand too. Unfortunately I haven't done an ounce of crack climbing in them to help you there.
Shoe Shape: The edging on these shoes is supreme, and the way the outside of your foot molds over the outside edge gives you a huge advantage in outside edging ability and control. You might think its no big deal, but you'll appreciate it on some airy cross-step move. However, the pointed toe tends to get in the way more at the horizontal-holded world of the Gunks than its helpful, its biggest problem is if you have to pivot on the toe on a tiny hold or horizontal - the pointy bit would tend to knock you out from your stance as you rotated. Of course, after two rand replacements, the point profile looks more like the front of the anaszai now, and I think its changed for the better.
Overall, even though I mainly use these shoes for pulling plastic, they sometimes get hot, and will smell if you don't air them out, their control and ability outweighs that. I like these more now that they've been resoled, if that makes sense, and I do like these shoes enough that i'd buy a larger size to use in the real vertical world.
Okay, so here's the deal! I wear a size 9 street shoe and originally bought these shoes in an 8.5 and they hurt bad when I got them. However, only after a week or so of climbing (I climb a lot) they were too big and sloppy on my feet. They will stretch!!! I sent them back and after the advise of a friend went with a 7.5. They still hurt the first little bit, but now they totally rock!!!! These shoes are so precise!! I love the Faceted edge technology, they are a great design. I feel that I'm climbing a lot better. I totally recommend these shoes!! You just might want to size down a little more than you thought!!
I have had these shoes since august and they have already stretched a full size it seems like. They fit great for the first month and held edges well. now my feet are loose in them and the last is way to soft. Can no longer edge well which is the reason I bought this shoe. The "faceted edge technology" only helps for the first month and then the rubber is worn down enough that you can't even see the "edge" any more. Shoe doesn't breath. By the end of a couple climbs the shoes are almost soaked through. This shoe is not worth the price!!!
This is my first climbing shoe. It has been good. i got true to my shoe size and at first they were REALLY tight, now they fit perfect after a half summer of doing a few climbs and bouldering. They seem more comfortable to me when i watch my other friends climb a wall, then tear their shoes off after rappelling down. I am sure there are better shoes for the $$ but these have treated me very well.
I bought a pair of these around May, and just had to retire them. Unlike other synthetic uppers/linings, the perforated Prisms stretch... A LOT. Climbing 3-4 times per week for 3 months had them stretch about 1 full size on me, which was far more than I expected for a synthetic. In the end, they had stretched so much that the laces were bottomed out, and I could no longer tighten them enough to prevent my foot from rolling inside the shoe when I edged.
In addition the combination of the chisel tip and the super soft Onyxx rubber runs into problems as the rubber breaks in. I found that the side and upper rubber stretched about a quarter inch outwards over the chisel tip, actually making it more difficult to edge. Also, this caused the sides to show much more wear than I normally see.
Finally, while the very soft Onyxx rubber is amazing for slabby work, I found the combination of it plus the extra soft last to be extremely painful whenever I put my feet in any crack and cranked.I would buy these again if they were redesigned with a stiffer rubber/last, a reworked chisel tip where the sides did not bulge over the sole, a non-perforated synthetic upper (or synthetic lined leather), and a snugger heel.
Oh, and just like seemingly every other synthetic shoe, they will smell putrid if your feet sweat a lot. This did not factor into my rating, but others may want to consider it.
I have been wearing evolv forever and thought I would try something a little different. After ordering an aggressive size for my foot I realized the Prism was extremely small. Tried 2 more times and finally found the right fit, which happened to be my actual street shoe size. After breaking them and getting used to the stiffness/angled toe I have grown to love them. The stiff toe is great for edging and providing nice power. The "magic fingers" heel feels secure and doesn't slip. I like how it conforms to the shape of the hold when used properly. The ONYXX rubber is super sticky and provides an extra level of confidence on flags. The uppers are amazing! The perforations keep my feet cool and comfy, which makes my feet sweat less and inevitably... don't make my feet stink! My evolvs would get nasty after a few sends. All in all, a great shoe. I primarily boulder but I can see them doing well in just about every aspect.
Are these shoes for men or for women?????
These have a Mens last.
Finally a climbing shoe has been constructed that compromises both comfort and precision at the highest level possible, its the perfect shoe for all abilities and I must say again that it is hands down the most comfortable shoe on the market! I'm talking like doing 25 pitches of trad climbing and not wanting to take them off afterwards! On top of that having a state of the art design in the toe box that may seem a little weird at first but once accustomed to the Prism technology its potential is unstoppable in any condition like trad, sport, bouldering you name it!! I found that the Prism is my favorite climbing shoe for any type of sandstone climbing which works out perfectly for me since i live in Utah.
A dream come true, thank you Five Ten for I can now go to sleep at night without my feet throbbing.
Lets just say that there isn't a more comfortable high peformance climbing shoe on the market! I've used these from Smith Rocks to Joshua Tree, index, Squamish, and beyond, and they crank!!!
The faceted edge technology absolutly cahnged my options while doing tecnical edging...outside edging has never been more stable, and i can really get more rubber on edges, maximizing friction and control. I feel solid stiffness under all my toes for support on the tiniest of edges, yet sensitivity behind the toes for smears, and nubbin pullin'. The front edge and toe point, balance edges, and penetrate pockets very well.
About the uppers,hands down the most comfy i've ever had on my feet! as soft or softer than leather without the stretch out. The heel tension is snug,the lacing system works well for cranking down the shoe, and they're holding up exceedingly well.
I've been a fan of the onyxx rubber since it first came out, and they're really is no better value in rubber...far and away the highest friction, with amazing durability!
keep it up Five Ten! another great shoe, focused on tech to improve your climbing, and comfort to keep it fun!
Got these in the correct size. Toes feel OK but not great. The goofy angles on the edging portion of the front is unnecessary and seems gimicky to me. Guess thats the "Prism" part of the shoe. The heel is the worst of all, gets a baggy little pooch at the bottom as though the heel is too deep. I got these at the same time as a friend and he now uses his for gym only as he is having the same issues. On a good note the shoe is somewhat comfortable out of the box but wish I would have gotten another pair of Miura's
How good is it for smearing?
I've climbed in them and I think the Prisms are fine smearers. However, bear in mind that this shoe is designed (and marketed) for its edging prowess. The day you get them out of the box, you might be disappointed in their smearing ability, but they'll only get better from here on out. In my experience, the more worn the shoe, the better the smearing, YMMV.