If you don't send your project now, you sure can't blame the shoes.
- Lined synthetic uppers keep stretch to a minimum
- Aggressive down-turned toes add performance for the steepest climbs
- Stealth HF rubber sticks the the smallest holds and the worst smears
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Share your thoughts
banana finger review
Joes Valley Resident Evil
If you look closely you can see the heel colapsing when i heel hook. This just cause the heel doesnt fit my foot well so there is a huge bubble at the bottom of my heel.
Great shoe not the best fit for me
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
This shoe is great. It toe hooks better then i expected and i love the shoe itself and still may by another pair later. My only complaint on this shoe is the heel. I boulder a lot and i seem to heel hook more then most people but i cannot get this heel to fit me. I think i got it a bit to big cause i new they wouldnt stretch but i cant get this heel to sink in on me. I think la sportiva fits a bit better for me but this is a great shoe. If 5.10 fits your foot then this is probably the best shoe on the market. It is light and edges surprising well for as soft as it is. Also the lining on the inside makes it pretty comfortable. My only complaint is the straps on the heel of the shoe. It is the same for every 5.1o shoe, they are all flemsy and i have seen many break.
Amazing but not for me
These shoes are everything I could have asked for for a down-turned shoe, but not for my feet. I returned them to backcountry (thank you BC for your awesome return policy) after 2 months. They don't stretch at all, they might conform a little but little to no stretch.
The shoe acts exactly as advertised, amazing toeing and edging accompanied by the perfect heel cup and rubber to protect while toe-hooking as well. made for overhung bouldering etc. But of course they don't tell you backstepping in these in poor and smearing is impossible (not a big deal).
Do not downsize on these shoes, like I said they do not stretch. And do not get these for your first downturned aggressive shoe IMPORTANT this is an advanced shoe, treat it as such.
in conclusion the shoe is amazing, well done five.Ten, works for some people but not others.
an addition i just saw a dude wearing these several sizes too big while top roping the other day... hey what ever works for you.
just got these, first pair of aggressive...
just got these, first pair of aggressive down-turned shoe. Anyways they slip on and off nicely but if I try to walk, I walk with a bowed foot and I have trouble standing on my toes on the wall because it doesn't flex much. got any suggestions for breaking them in? P.S. size to regular street shoe
Great though! everything I wanted out of a shoe!
I have a pair of the Dragons too, and they are definitely not the most comfortable shoes out of the box. The aggressive camber of the shoe will prevent your foot from flexing a lot, so you shouldn't really expect a "comfortable" fit. But while they won't flex much for walking or hanging out, you'll get a ton of power in your toe which is great for steep routes.
I typically slip these on for a few burns on my project, then take them back off while I'm not climbing.
The best way to break them in is to climb in them! I though the rubber was a little thick at first, so I just wore them in the gym for a little bit while the sole softened up.
love these shoes, you just have to make sure they fit your shape of foot. works for some and not for others
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
I hate this shoe. Not only do they size differently than almost every other shoe company on the market, but this shoe fell apart after a VERY short amount of time.
I don't buy into the hype of 5.10 anymore and can assure you I'll never buy another pair after dealing with their customer service department. Absolute waste of time and money.
five ten kills it
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I've been climbing (mostly bouldering) in these shoes for about 3 months now. Before getting them I was in an evolv shaman. The difference was huge. the shamans felt like putting my feet in a box compared to the dragons. The rubber is sensitive and flexible making the shoe perform decently even on short vertical climbs rather than just over hangs. The rubber is the stickiest on the market and the toe is downturned just enough. You can pull with your toes amazingly on over hangs and generate tremendous power from them. comfort is what you'd expect from a downturned shoe. They are very painful at first, but conform to your feet after a few sessions. They're also great outside. If I had to pick a few cons, it would have to be the heel. It might just be the shape of my heel but there's a dead spot for me. Although not a con for me, some people may find the lace system as a burden.
For size, I went exact to street shoe size. You could probably go a half size smaller if you have a narrower foot but if it's wider go with street shoe size.
Durability is surprisingly good for a shoe with such sticky rubber. I feel like the loops to pull on the shoe will tear before the rubber does.
Overall, amazingly powerful shoe with sticky rubber. Fight through the pain, and you won't regret it.
Dragons at the Gorge
Johnny B. Goode 5.11a
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Haven't tried them too much out yet, and I'll of course update once I test them out a little more.
To start out, I have a pretty wide foot, and my toes don't come to much of a point(like in La Sportiva shoes)
I've owned a pair of Sportiva Cobras in a 38.5, and their toe box is just not for me. 5.10 saved my feet with the Hornet, and now it's time to get something for more steep climbing!
I wear an 8.5-9 size shoe, and went with the 8.5 in the Dragons.
I honestly expected it to be worse feeling on my feet, but to my surprise, they fit like a glove(albeit a very tight fitting one)
There's little to no dead space in the shoe, and my toes are against the end, but not curled up.
To break it down-
Street shoe: 8.5 - 9
5.10 Hornet: 9
5.10 Dragon: 8.5
La Sportiva Cobra: 38.5
I highly suggest trying them on at a store before buying them online. They fit different on different people, so it's always hard to tell which size to get.
THANKFULLY, backcountry has an awesome return policy and will totally help you throughout the exchange process
Power and Precision
I haven't had these shoes for long (1 month, maybe), but I can already tell that these are the most powerful shoes I've worn. The asymmetry and gnarly downturn throws all of that power into your toe, allowing you to be spot on with foot placement. The heel is absolutely bomber (hooks and sticks on everything). Performance shoe till the very end.
There aren't very many downsides to this shoe, in my opinion, but it is definitely a painful experience. It takes a decent amount of climbing to break them in, and it hurts all the way through that process. If you can push through the pain, the shoe softens up and doesn't feel quite as painful.
The lace system is also somewhat annoying. After wearing the Miura laceups for two years, the Dragon lace system is a pain to fumble with. The laces themselves are tough to handle, and they don't snug up the shoe around the contours of your foot as well as the Miura does.
Looking past these minor gripes, I can say that the dragons are a super high-performance shoe, and that I am extremely pleased with my purchase.
My street shoe size is 10. I own a pair...
My street shoe size is 10. I own a pair of size 9 dragons and they are rediculously painful. But, when I tried on a pair of size 8 solutions they felt only snug... Anyone else have wierd sizing issues? At first I heard the solutions were the worst as far as breaking in goes. Maybe my feet just fit them super well...?
Solutions just size super weirdly/small. I wear a size 8-8.5 (US men's) street shoe, and a 6.5 (men's) Solution.
That sounds about right. I didnt know if five ten sized their shoes really small, or if La sportiva sized their shoes really big. Thanks for the response!!!!
How durable is the Stealth HF rubber? I...
How durable is the Stealth HF rubber? I own a pair of the Anasazi Arrowheads and even with Five Ten's ONYX rubber, which is supposed to be very tough and durable, they are loosing their edge very quickly. I dont know if I can resole my arrowheads, and I dont want to have blown 165 dollars for a climbing shoe that will only last me two or three months. My next shoe, maybe the dragon, I hope will hold up better. I usually boulder about three or four times a week and need to know how long these things will last. Compared to my first La Sportiva's with Vibram Ex-s Edge rubber, my five tens are breaking down extremely fast. How long will the HF rubber last in comparisson to Vibram Ex-s grip two, and other rubbers like Stealth C4, Mystique, Science friction from mad rock, and Trax from Evolv. Sorry for all the the questions but only having climbed on two pair of shoes doesn't give me much first hand expiriance.
It really depends on a lot of factors. The first being the simple characteristics of sticky rubber; the stickier the less durable. It also depends on footwork (probably more than anything else), the texture of the holds and walls you are climbing on and how often you are climbing. When I first started climbing I climbed 4-6 days a week and would go through most of my 5.10s in about 4-5 months. Now many years later I usually go through a pair a year and I still climb 3-4 days a week. My softer slipper and really sticky shoes are usually on the 6 month plan but I use them sparingly for problems that I need them for. So the answer is... it depends. I'd say you'll get roughly the same duration as your Arrowheads and maybe a bit more (not much more).
I previously had a pair of the 5.10 teams...
I previously had a pair of the 5.10 teams in 11.5 US I wore them for a little longer than 3 months and they still were to painful. I am a big fan of the 5.10 rubber and heel. I wear a 9.5 US testarosa and have an 11.5 US Evolv Shaman for my comfy shoe. I was hoping to find a shoe like the testarosa or the Shaman with the big knuckle box and love bump in the foot. However the heel in the La Sportiva is just way to sloppy for my foot. I am thinking that these shoes have a bigger toe box for the knuckle than the 5.10 teams, Any sizing advice with getting these shoes or any advice on another aggressive pair?
how does the dragon compare to the scarpa...
how does the dragon compare to the scarpa vapor v? i know its a broad question but i want a lot of different answers
The most obvious difference is lace-up vs. velcro. Lace-up gives you a more precise fit, which I love (I use La Sportiva Testarossas), but velcro is easier to get on and off faster. As far as fit, I've generally found 5.10 to be wider than Scarpa or Sportiva, which I don't like because it allows my foot to squish out and that hurts. There's also the issue of the heel. 5.10 used to be famous for awful heel cups, but they've fixed that and now it's just a matter of your foot. Some swear by Scarpa's heel and hate 5.10's, and some are just the opposite. The next major difference is that the Scarpas are a lot stiffer, so your feet won't get as tired, but the thin rubber on the 5.10s gives you a more sensitive feel for the holds. That thin rubber wears out faster, of course, and Stealth is generally softer so you gain stickiness and sacrifice durability. If you'll be mostly on sharp edges and not slopey feet, you'd probably be better served by a stiffer, more durable rubber.
The bottom line is that I always recommend trying them on beforehand. Find any store that has them, if you can, and slip them on. See if you can feel pressure points, feel for dead space in the heel, and so on, then come back and order them here. Or order both in a couple of sizes (which is a lot of money up front) then return the ones you don't want. If you only order one pair in one size, it's a crap shoot.
Hey i bought mens 6.5 dragons because im...
Hey i bought mens 6.5 dragons because im only 13, and they were to small, my daily shoe is a 7.5 adn im thinking thats what im gonna try. Does anyone know when back country will be getting a new shipment of shoes???
hey i bought the mens 6.5 adn they were...
hey i bought the mens 6.5 adn they were to small. I am thinking i might go with a 7.5. When is backcountry going to have a new shipment of shoes??
Excellent shoe with one exception
As usual the 5.10 rubber is excellent, the toe on these is also awesome, really precise and sensitive I am a 9.5/10 street shoe and I bought a 9 in these. The heel feels slightly shallower than the jet's and is excellent. My only complaint is that they do not toe hook well at all compared to the jet7 team, or solution.
Shoe sizes: I size my shoes as small as I can get my foot into
These are amazing bouldering shoes! I wear a 10.5 in street size and 10.5 is the perfect size for me. Hard to wear at first but they break in nice. Never are they comfortable but they climb great. Laces lock your feet in perfectly. I have tried 11's and they feel loose. Sizing these right makes a huge difference. The rubber is great and last well in the gym or outside.
precise and powerful
Really nice shoe with comfortable fabrics and lining. Overall, a moderately narrow shoe with powerful toe and good sensitivity - probably not idea for stuff like slab or cracks but works wonders on steep faces and roofs. Heel fits me very well with no extra space and feels very secure, even with laces untied. Doesn't stretch too much but I still recommend sizing as small as possible. Rubber is super sticky and haven't had any issues with durability. Planning on buying another pair when the time comes.
Wearing five ten dragons in US 8.0 (for reference, i wear 39.0 in sportiva speedsters and cobras; 8.5 in v10(2nd gen)) - 9.0 street shoe