Encourage your crack addiction with the Copperhead.
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Share your thoughts
Great shoe at a great price
I bought these shoes on sale for $58 (originally $130). These shoes have been working really well for me at the climbing gym. I can't wait to try them outside. I sized down 1 full size from my street shoe based on other reviews. They were uncomfortable right out of the box, but they have stretched out to where I want them after a few uses. I can't say these have the performance of other $130 climbing shoes, but they were a steal for $58.
How similar is the fit in these to a pair...
How similar is the fit in these to a pair of coyotes?
Pretty similar to the Cayote VCS and lace-up, but definitely try them on if you can before grabbing a pair. Slip ons really have to fit right
long break-in time
I've struggled with this shoe because my toes need to get flat to go in a crack. when new, they are a tight fit for even a green camalot crack.
Still - the rubber all around is awesome for crack climbing - I bought these for indian creek and they are a much better long term solution than mocasyms which destroy your feet in a few days because there isn't much padding.
still, i use my mocs on anythings small and these for #2 camalot and larger cracks - i think once fully broken in might fit a red camalot fine
Out of the box fit
I agree with J Lambo below. My big toe and second toe are the same length, possibly from cramming my feet into climbing shoes for 20 years. I also wear a 10.5 street shoe and bought a 10 based on the reviews here and other sites. Out of the box they are snug but not painful, and if they stretch out 1/2 size will be perfect. First impressions: the lacing is a little wierd but will come in handy to dial the fit; if you have strong feet, the sole is thick enough to edge. But I bought them as a trad shoe for Montana cracks. Will post more after a few pitches.
Sizing: They are unlined so they stretch at least a half size. The rubber is Onyx which seems very good. The fit for me is great, I have Morton's toe, index toe is longer than the big toe. Use: I use these shoes at the gym and outdoors in cracks and on face climbs. Yes, your feet will turn bright orange.
Hopeful idea, Unfortunate reality
With a desert climbing trip approaching, and the prospect of endless toe-crushing crack pitches looming, I purchased these shoes with the hope that I could combine the best of the slipper world with the best of the lace-up world. On initial inspection, they fit comfortablylike a slipperand secured snugly around the arch, thanks to the side-lacing system. I was stokedat first.
Then I went climbing.
On almost every other route, I accidentally stepped on the laces, completely untying them. It seems that the orientation of the laces on the side of the foot makes the laces more likely to come in adverse contact with the opposing foot. This has been proven time and time again. It's so frustrating that I've actually taken the laces OFF the shoe, and contemplated sewing on elastic. Seriously, this is a complete design flaw.
Should've just bought normal slippers. Or normal lace-ups.
A great shoe
I love my Copperheads. Im a 10 in street and my copperheads are 8's. They were painful for 4 days of climbing. Now they are awesome. I can almost belay in them. They stick to anythinC. cracks, crimpers, and friction seem east in this shoe.
Winter Climbing in St. George UT
Loving my 5.10 Copperheads in Moe's Valley UT
Very route specific shoe
I bought these because I needed a new pair of shoes, and the shoe I had originally wanted, the new supermocc, was out of stock. Although the Supermocc, the Copperhead, and the Moccasym are all quite similar, (unlined leather "slippers" with elastic uppers and similar lasts) the shoes have some distinct differences, mainly in the sole rubber. The Supermocc has the thinnest Mystique sole. The Moccasym has a thicker C4 Sole, and the Copperhead the thickest Onyxx sole.
I sized these a half size down from my street shoe size because I wanted them to work well in cracks. Also, since the rand rubber wraps up over the smaller toes, anything tighter was drastically uncomfortable. After climbing in them in J-Tree, here are my findings:
+ These excel on crack footwork, especially on sharper cracks 1" and wider. Because of the rand wrap, jamming is comfortable and secure.
- This advantage diminishes the smaller the crack gets: the fatter rubber rand does not fit into fingercracks quite as well as 5.10 would have you believe.
+ The unlined leather, slip-lasted sole is highly flexible, allowing you to smear with confidence. Indeed, these are among the best smearing shoes I have used.
- That same flexible sole edges poorly. It is very strenuous to get power over your toes on any edge smaller than about a half-pad.
+ They are quite comfortable in the size I got them in, and I love the clever lacing system.
- They turn your feet orange, which is annoying. The dye is so powerful, that after transferring to your feet, it still has the gusto to stain your socks. Why can't Five Ten reduce their environmental impact, save a buck or two, and keep my feet their natural color in one fell swoop, by using undyed leather? Its not like the "Carrot-Juice Orange" is an attractive color anyway.
Overall, these are not performance shoes (despite being priced like them). They would probably be solid in the pure cracks of the desert, but don't have the edging capabilities to excel on more typical routes. I'll definitely use these when I want comfort on a longer moderates, but for all around performance, I'll reach for my Miuras.
I wear size 10.5 street shoe. I switched to these shoes after deciding the moccasyms just couldn't accommodate my lurpy feet. Great decision. First off I also found that they size about a half size bigger than the mocs right out of the box. A 10 in the mocs had my toes in a foot fist about 75% compressed. I wanted a trad shoe that would allow my feet to lie flat. A 10 in these puppies had my toes slightly curled but just enough so that when they were fully broke in, they fit like a glove with my feet flat!
Does anyone know how these fair on long...
Does anyone know how these fair on long days and alpine routes?
These are fairly comfortable, esepcially once broken in, and will protect your feet (high rand) during sustained jamming. One problem with them is that they have so much rubber that they are quite warm, not a problem on a longer climb. Another problem is that they don't edge well, and are kind of floppy.
They'd probably do OK
How do these size compared to the Moccasyms?...
How do these size compared to the Moccasyms? Similar Stretch?
They are built on the same last and leather, so I assume almost identical.
Yeah, I demoed these a few days ago, and wore the same size in these and the Moccasyms. Same sizing and just as comfortable. And they'll stretch just like the Moccasyms too. Great shoes.