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Like a second set of hands.
Designed on a last similar to the renowned Dragons, the Five Ten Men's Blackwing Climbing Shoes provide the sensitivity and power required for steep double-digit boulder problems and 5.14 sport climbs with the convenience of dual hook-and-loop closures. The down-turned Stealth HF outsoles allow your feet to perform like a second set of hands on steep terrain while the Dragon Stifner in the midsoles supplies powerful edging performance.
- Durable Cowdura uppers provide next-to-skin comfort and a glove-like fit
- Dual hook-and-loop straps provide a secure closure and make for easy on and off
- Aggressively down-turned profile allows you to pull into the rock on steep routes and boulder problems
- Dragon Stifner in the midsoles provides powerful edging performance without compromising sensitivity
- Super sticky Stealth HF rubber is specially formulated to perform on overhanging rock
- Padded tongues with a micro-fiber fleece linings wick away moisture and enhance comfort
Share your thoughts
I wear a 10.5 in the quantum's, and they...
I wear a 10.5 in the quantum's, and they are nice and tight, only downside is a small amount of deadspace in the heel, just like half a centimeter? if I like a 10.5 in the quantum's what would you recommend for the blackwings? (Note i have no where to try them on within 4 hours of my home, so saying go try them on doest work!) Thanks!
Hey Chris! The black wings and the quantum's will fit very similar. I would stick with the same size you went with in the quantum's (10.5) If you would like I am working on chat, we can get you set up with a couple of different sizes so you can try them on and then we can give you a free return label for the size that doesn't fit. Let me know. If I'm not on chat you can email me anytime at firstname.lastname@example.org
Does this shoe run wide? If so, is it...
Does this shoe run wide? If so, is it similar to the Rogue shoe in terms of sizing?
I can comment on the design only now.
I have the first model with the Mystique rubber and rubber striping on the upper. The new blackwings have the HF rubber which I haven't used yet but are supposed to have the same friction with more durability. They also don't have the rubber striping on the upper. For a review on the design see my review on the old ones at http://www.backcountry.com/five-ten-blackwing-2012-climbing-shoe-mens?rr=t
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
- Fit: True to size
just ordered the new 5.10 blackwing in US 11.5. Here I thought the Evolv Shaman was the shoe for my foot, WRONG. These shoes fit me so much better in the heel and they're lighter. Having a smaller knuckle box area on the 5.10's will be better for smaller feet. ( I sometimes get my shamans stuck in small holes or can't establish my feet properly. I have not climbed with them yet only getting them today but just wearing them real quick I could tell they were much better for my foot. I have a wider upper foot being broad across the knuckles where the toes meet the foot itself and then medium length toes. My foot is slightly flatter but extremely petite from that point back with a very small heel that barely sticks out. These shoes out of all the shoes I have worn have fit my foot the best as of now. I may need to size down after trying them with climbing but I'll see.
Shoes I've worn
MadRock muygen US 12 decent fit but terrible shoe
5.10 team (neon blue) US 11.5 extremely painful fit and eventually gave up
5.10 Hornet US 12 Way to big on me
5.10 quantum US 10.5 fit but not my style, little to tight too
La Sportiva katana US 11.5 way to loose in the heel like all of them loose toes
La Sportiva testarossa US 10.5 fit in the toe extremely loose in the heel
Scarpa Instinct Slip-on US 11 meh, fit decent didnt like loose heel kinda and smaller toes
Scarpa Instinct Lace-up US11, same story but could adjust the arch of the foot by pulling the laces tighter in certain spots.
Evolv Shaman great in the toe box slightly loose heel ( have gone through 3 pairs and thought they were my shoes for my feet.
I'll update after climbing in them, hopefully they stay this snug only slightly painful but cozy tight, not to tight that i can't apply pressure and no loose room in the heel or toes. Finally found my shoe of choice for now.
Ordered these and already can tell that they're better.... Next shoe to try will be the new 5.10 VXi team.
Five Ten Blackwing Climbing Shoe - Men's
Mayan - Salathe - Black Wing
Mayan - Punks/Australia - Black Wing
This is the previous model of the blackwing. I highly recommend them for their function, but the material has begun to crack after only two weeks of climbing in them. I think that it's only cosmetic, but I do worry it may lead to early tears on the top of the boot.
So I have worn many a brands and shoes. ...
So I have worn many a brands and shoes. I had a pair of 5.10 teams for 3 months and still couldn't get past the pain of wearing them. Some days were better than others but I have larger feet and ended up getting a US 11.5 for the 5.10 team I really liked the shoes and the STEALTH rubber but eventually gave in and returned them. I have eventually stumbled to the Evolv Shaman in the same size and love them, the rubber seems to wear a bit fast for my liking but overall I love the shoes. I have tried two pairs of scarpa instincts and then the la sportiva testarossa I wasn't a big fan of either of those brands and had a hard time getting a shoe with a heel small enough to leave no air. The testarossa had a great comfy toe box (like the shaman IMO) I had worn a US9 in these shoes and still had problems with my heel being sloppy and extra material (air pocket) bunching up and sliding around on me.
If anyone has worn or climbed with the 5.10 team shoes (US 11.5) could you give me a size recommendation on these Blackwing? Wearing the Teams in the US 11.5 was almost unbearable at times. I couldn't get past the pain of my toes. Sometimes my feet would be bruised and bleeding after climbing some routes. I wan't to get back to the 5.10 shoes after liking them so much but haven't found a pair I can wear and still be able to enjoy climbing. My shamans are tight and still hurt after 2 months of wearing them but I can fight through it.
Can someone suggest a size or try and compare them to the 5.10 Team (US 11.5) or the Evolv Shaman (US 11.5)?
Maybe this will help you decide which size you'll need. I wear a size 10.5 (european 44) in both the blackwings and shamans. I have found the sizing between these two shoes very closely matched, so if you've found a size that you like in the shaman, I wouldn't change it up too much. Also, in my opinion, the blackwings are a HUGE step up over the shamans. Definitely worth the extra money. You'll only need 1 pair of shoes instead of 2.
Best of luck.
The Boulderer's Best Friend!
This is, hands down, the best shoe for climbing edges on overhanging terrain out there. I mean, it's a dragon toe with a team heel and velcro. The heel just sucks your feet into the bottom of the shoe. The velcro is amazing for adjustment. This makes the shoe very adjustable to form to your feet. Not as adjustable and versatile as laces, but still pretty adjustable. The shoe is super aggressive! This is amazing for everything from vertical and slabby climbs to horizontal roofs. The only disadvantage of the downturn is the pain that it causes you. Make sure to take these off right when you're done climbing to put on sandals or some similar shoes. Also, the famous Five Ten stealth rubber is as sticky as ever.
The verdict- Great aggressive shoe for almost everything, but with the cost of pain, and, of course, lots of money.