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Five Ten has upgraded the incredibly popular Anasazi VCS with Stealth Onyxx Rubber and a close-fitting heel to reveal the better-then-ever Anasazi V2 Climbing Shoe. Apparently making a shoe that climbs 5.15, V15, and countless cutting-edge sport climbs and boulder problems isn't enough for Five Ten. The Anasazi V2 blurs the lines between a stiff edging shoe and a soft smearing shoe to give you technical performance on every foothold of your project.
Bottom Line: Five Ten has made their most-famous technical climbing shoe even better with its introduction of the Anasazi V2 Climbing Shoe.
Lets just say that the stick is the shit. Onyx has a certain something to it that whether the rock be limestone or granite, you're sure that the tiny, some-what-of-a-rail, will hold. With toe and heel hooks in the mix, these shoes never gave way to slippage and there is always the occasional slab of a route in which you must smear/use what you can, to continue the ascent. With that being said, the edging of this shoe is phenomenal. Having sized the shoe one full size down from my Converse (from 12-11 US) the shoe was tight at first but relaxed and conformed to my foot within a month, as if it were a second layer of skin. The FiveTen Anasazi's look great, wont leave your foot stained a bazaar color when worn new, and perform above and beyond what their price range entails. From a non-professional, blue collared climber, i highly recommend these shoes for any type of rock or climbing style, as well as any experience level or age group. Peace. Love. Rocks.
Do these stretch much? I looked at them in person and the outside material doesn't seem like its leather. I don't understand what the website means by "Cowdura."
They stretch some but not a full size. I wear them tight. 10.5 - 11 street shoe and I wear these in a 9.5. 10's feel sloppy after a few weeks of wear. The rubber is solid. Great for edging but not a great smearing shoe in my opinion.
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This shoe fits people with mid-wide feet. Please try them on in person before buying. I wear an 11.5 us with most of my runners and i sized this down to 10.5 us or 44euro. Could fit into .5 smaller but went with this size instead. Stretched a little and is now somewhat comfortable. If you use plenty of heel hooking on your climbs, try to size it even smaller. I found that my heel doesn't work as good now compared to when it was new and tight. It still works. Rubber wise, I reckon theres not much of a difference compared to Vibram xs. Probably a tad stickier. Upper is very thin compared to my other shoe so i would probably recommend not jamming it into cracks or dragging your foot against the rock. Not a beginners shoe due to the fit and the fact that if u want this shoe to perform u have to buy it tight. Otherwise, 5/5 from me and will keep buying this shoe and the sportiva katanas :D
Oh and one more thing. They start to smell quicker than my other shoes. I store my shoes in a perfectly ventilated area, clean them when i get home after every climb, hang them on my harness when im not climbing and basically everything u can dish out in terms of shoe care except for my feet sweating on hot days. To fix rock shoes smelling, I bought some loose lavender, packed them into tiny balls, popped one or two into the shoe while storing them. absorbs most of the smell away.
I wear a US size 6 in the Five Ten 5x do the Anasazi's fit the same? I think there's a difference in lining should that effect how much they stretch and fit my feet? I think they're both leather.
This is a great climbing shoe and i know a lot of people that love them and wouldn't part with them for one climb. With that being said, my foot is a little low volume so i need a little less baggage on the top of the foot. Generally slippers work well for me and most velcros, but this shoes is too baggy on the top for me. Still an amazing shoe though!
I've been climbing in Anasazi VCS Velcros in size 13s, which is my street size, for several months. I've put many hours into climbing using this shoe. I've been extremely pleased with these shoes. The Stealth Onyx rubber is unmatched. I recommend you get these shoes a half size down from your street size so as you improve, and you will, you'll continue to use them on the harder routes and maintain proper fit. If possible, try these shoes on in a store before you buy.
Unfortunately, there are no local stores in my city that stock these shoes. If you can't try these shoes on in a shop before purchasing (Which is ideal), and/or this is your first time buying shoes online or of this brand.. I'd reccommend putting a peice of A4 paper against a flat wall, put your foot on the paper so your heel is hard back to the wall, then draw the outline of your foot with a pen. Turn the paper over and do the same. Mark which foot is which. Measure how long each foot is in mm. (Be sure to get as accurate as possible, as each half size is 5mm apart, and can make all the difference) Also, from my own experience; if your feet measure 252mm like mine, don't buy anything less than size 40eu(255mm. I bought size 39.5 (250mm) thinking I would have perfectly tight shoes.. they sure were. Ridiculously tiny, and tight. If you are looking for a pair of shoes to suit HARD climbing, or the projects you have been working on, shoes that you won't be able to wear all day; Go for the next half-size up from your measurement. For casual, indoor, all-day climbing, go at least a whole size up from your measurement (10mm, 1cm).
Ultimately, trying shoes on in a store is the BEST way to go, then order them at a cheaper price here.
In regards to the performance of the shoes, they are nothing less than awesome, amazing shoes,, durable, grippy, comfortable, good quality shoes. The straps are good quality and strong. I once had a pair of Mad Rock 'Mugens'. Good shoes for some. I found it's rubber on the toe edge was very soft, and wore out fast. The Stealth, Onyxx rubber is perfect for me, very sticky and durable. No noticable weak spots in the rubber. If you are wearing tight Anasazi's, although they say they won't stretch, they do, Slightly. Also the rungs which the straps go through, broke free from the material, I had to cut slits in the sides of my shoes for the straps to go through to keep them tight. The Anasazi shoe has solid straps, the outer material is also durable and won't tear.
Yes, the heel can be ever so slightly bulky, giving a bit of space. But as I like my shoes really tight, I don't notice it as much as those who like their shoes looser and comfier.
And if it's any consolation, Chris Sharma wore this type of shoe for years.
Well, that's all from me, I really hope this helps someone.
I love this shoe for all of my non-steep climbs outside. This is my go-to shoe for both slab and crack climbing. Some of the hardest routes in the world have been climbed in these shoes, so you can't blame the rubber. I usually wear a 11 or 11.5 street shoe, so I sized these down to 10. They are a bit tight at first, but they conform to your foot very quickly. Bottom line, if you're not planning on doing any crazy overhangs, then these would be a very good choice.
I've been climbing in a gym for the last 4-5 month's and have used the boreal joker as my first climbing shoe. I'm looking to get something new which is more agressive to help me with the harder problems i'm now attempting. I pretty much exclusively climb boulder problems but occasionally put on the harness and do some sport climbing.
I'm in no way an expert in the sport and equipment so would appreciate it if people think that stepping up to the 5.10 anasazi vcs would go be a good choice for me and if not then could suggest some other shoes that would be better for me.
I actually went to my local store this evening and tried the anasazi on and decided to buy them. I'm usually a 8 in trainers but went with a 7 in the anasazi.
Just itching to get climbing now, but have to get through a boring day at work first LOL
Get 5 climbers in a room and ask them about climbing shoes you will get 10 different answers. Most important, find a shoe that fits YOUR foot the best. As for brand/rubber, every climber claims his/her shoes are the best and the rubber is the stickiest. Here is some test data on rubber types(http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/). With that said, these are great sport shoes. Some others to look at would be evolve pontas, la sportiva miura vs, five ten team 5.10.
Assuming that it fits well, I have never found anyone who wasn't thrilled with their Anasazis and trying to make them last as long as possible. I'm thrilled with mine (the women's), and they're too small for me. Although these aren't the stiffest shoe around, they are fantastic for standing on little tiny edges while also being good for smearing. They're not built on a super-downturned last, so the foot remains in a fairly neutral position. The heel pocket is snug, so heel hooking is a breeze.
I would highly recommend trying them on somewhere before buying them! climbing shoe fit is such an important part of how shoes perform, and a poor fit will not only diminish the performance of the shoe, but probably be uncomfortable for you.
Unbelievable shoe from the moment i took them out of the box. Five 10 really out did themselves. Took me about a week to break these in at the gym and let me tell you , these're some comfy climbing shoes. The velcro straps make it quick to take em on and off. The sole is made of onyx rubber, which is awesome for those ridiculous foot holds. Breathable, comfortable, and pretty snazzy looking. I give it 4 stars because i havent been able to try them outdoors. May have to come back and give em a 5!
I got these a few months ago from another vendor who had a huge sale (sorry, BC), but sized them down 1 full size from my street shoe (12 street shoes, 11 anasazi) and they were very tight in the toe box when I got them. After about a month, they've broken in quite a bit and I don't notice any real discomfort while climbing in them, the heel feels very good and tight, quite comfy for heel hooking.
I've read reviews of people saying they have baggy heels in the anasazi's, and I honestly think it's due to improper sizing. These are in fact synthetic shoes, which won't hugely stretch... but you should expect them to change, not stay the same.
I went with a fit that the heels felt perfect in. When I put the shoes on, my heel "pops" in and doesn't budge. After some additional toying with the straps, over the first week I've found that with a tight upper strap and a somewhat relaxed lower, I get the best fit for comfort.
In terms of smearing performance, I've had no issues with smearing on some tight cave problems at the gym and the edging is great.
Just got a pair of these. I usually take UK size 5 trainers, got the climbing shoes in a 5.5. My big and second toes are pretty squished, though I have just managed to walk around the house for about an hour in them without crying...how likely are they to stretch? From reading the reviews people seem to have actually gone for a size down, but for the sake of my comfort is it worth switching them a size up?
I wear my velcros big enough to be uncomfortable but not painful on the first wearings. They seem to loosen and conform, more than actually stretch, thanks to the synthetic upper. So buy a size that feels fairly comfortable to you in the store, not one that is dramatically uncomfortable.
depending on what type of climbing you're doing, your toes should be just slightly bent to accomodate a tiny bit of strech. 5uk is about 6 us so 5.5 is a half size down for you. I had these shoes years ago a half size down from sneaker size and it was WAY too tight. I only kept wearing them cause I paid so much from them. Just cause you're not crying on the outside doesn't mean you aren't on the inside. Personally I'd consider stepping up a size.
Well built and good performance. Some like them extremely tight, but these seem to run a little small though. I ended up getting a 1/2 size up of my running shoe size and they're much more tolerable. Not quite as snug in the heel as I'd like though.
I bought these as an alternative pair to my pair of Acopa B3 shoes. In comparison, the rubber is not as good and the fit is also not as good. I wear an 8.5 in Acopa and these shoes in 8.5 feel half a size small.
The heel box is very loose no matter how tight you strap your feet in, while the toe box is very tight.
These shoes have great edges and a decent heal cup. I sized down one full size from you street shoe. I wear a 10.5 in dragons and they are tight.. I wear a 9.5 in these. tight in the beginning but they broke in nicely.
One of my favorite all around shoes. They can do it all. They are lined, which means that they will not stretch out and they'll stink something aweful after a lot of use.
I really wanna like these. I do mostly gym and trad cruisers--not a super ambitious climber. I wear a 9 US for street shoes. Pretty average dogs,--not too wide, not too narrow, no odd protrusions. Got these in 8.5 US and could barely get them on. Replaced them with a 9 and they are still very tight (after about 20 trips to gym), with a painful pressure point at big toe 'knuckle'. As others have said, they are a bit 'baggy' in heel, too.
The fit, feel, etc. of the shoe from the arch to the toe was great and performed well for its price, but the crazy-deep pocket of a heel was awful. There was about 0.75 cm of compression before my heel touched rubber every time I attempted a heel hook. Unless you have abnormally pointy heels, stay away from this design.
I climbed in these for a few months and wound up with turf toe because of them. Because of the narrow cut they squeezed my feet horizontally, causing my joint to swell and ruining a trip to Bishop for me.
As for the performance, I didn't think that they were that fantastic. It could be because of the fit, but I thought the shoes were just average.
i wear a 9.5 in the evolve pontas what size would i wear in the anasazi? and will the stretch out at all? the pontas is really tight. maybe a little bit to tight.
I have the 'Velcro' version of this shoe. But it's pretty similar to the 'vcs'... save the heel and rubber. It is my best all around shoe from slab to overhang. I love these shoes and will get them resoled soon! I recommend sizing them small enough so that when the shoe stretches it will conform to your foot.
This shoe I have found to be great on sandstone! I have a wide foot and bone spurs on my heals so they fit great. The only complaint is the sole that it comes with wears out super fast, but that is ok because once you get them resoled they climb much better. (given you take them to someone that knows what they are doing)
Were I restricted to one shoe for the rest of my climbing days, it would be the Anasazi Velcro.
Believe the hype! Look at its history. This shoe has been on the foot of many many many cutting edge ascents. Free climbs on El CAp. 5.15s V14s. You've seen the pics, now use this tried and true war horse to get you up your next proj.
Sometimes people seem confused as to how to size these shoes... My advice for PERFORMANCE fit: Narrow foot/Low volume/high arch-down size 1 full size from your US street shoe size. Add a half size for med width/volume and a full size for high volume/wide/low arch feet.
I find it takes a half dozen or so pitches for the fit to settle in.
Sorry if there was any confusion, When I'm talking about the straps breaking in my last review, I was talking about the Mad-Rock mugens. The Anasazi's are ACE. Cheers!
Most people find the Galileo to fit more snugly that the A.V. Check out my review for advice on fitting these-i've been wearing them for over 10 years thru the various incarnations and have never changed my size.
i tried both of these shoes on tonight and decided to go with the anasazi. however I wore a 7.5 in the galileo and a 7 in the anasazi. I'd recommend trying them on as they are different fits, but that's just my two cents
Probably. Since they are comparable models within the same brand I'm sure the sizing is pretty close. If the 8.5 were too tight then yea definitely go up. Although finding a local vendor that has them would be good so you can actually try them on. Anasazis are found almost everywhere. Try them out in person if you can then come back online and get a better deal!
I´ve just bought size 8 when i´m 9 and a half in street. Yes, one and a half size smaller!!!
I´ve just used it a couple of times doing boulder, and they worked great. Yes, it hurts, but no so much.
I know at least 3 people who wear it smaller (that´s why I bought it smaller)
I know some people recommend to buy them same size or even bigger, I just tell you my experience. Oh, and notice that my intend of use is for boulder and sport climbing. I put them, climb and take them off asap.
Basically, I started off doing mostly gym climbing and they were great for ever little nook and cranny that I wanted to get into. Then I took them outside and they were even better. I was able to climb some of the hardest stuff I had ever climbed without having to worry about my feet slipping. And after almost 3/4 of a year of climbing every day, almost, they are just starting to where out. If you are a intermediate climber looking for a aggressive shoe that is not to hard on the feet (walked over a mile in them) and will stick to anything this is it.
I've been climbing regularly in a climbing gym for 3 or 4 months now and I've been using Sportiva's mantis shoes, however I've noticed that I have a hard time staying on jibs and even more trouble trying to toe hook when I'm on overhangs. I'm trying to decide between these, the galileo, or the mocassyms which I see a lot of at the gym (or even another really good shoe). As i live in Indiana I won't be doing much outdoors climbing, but maybe some bouldering. Any sugestions?
These are definitely a huge jump in performance both from what you have and the other shoes you mentioned. One thing to be aware of is that La Sportiva and Five Ten cater to different foot shapes, so I highly recommend trying them on in the shop and then buying online. If you decide you do like Five Tens though, these are awesome shoes. If you want crazy aggressive shoes (and again, only if you feel like Five Tens really fit your feet), go for the Jet 7. I've been climbing those for over a year now on tons of different stuff and I love them. If you want to post another question with more specifics about the kind of climbing you'll be doing, I can make more specific recommendations and give you a few pairs of equivalent shoes from 5.10 and Sportiva so you can compare. Hope this helps for now though.
These things are great, but after only four months of regular use (3 to 4 times a week in the gym) the toe of the right shoe has started to bust open. I am planning on getting them resoled, but it's a tad disappointing to have to get it done so soon. No doubt though, these are great performers and I intend to use them far into the future.
Solid features all around. Edging, heel, everything. I wear a 10.5 in mocs and downsized to a 10 for the velcros. Using the shoes on tiny edges pushes the heel back into the cupped rubber for a very comfortable fit. After a week or two of break-in the rubber's softening and feeling like an excellent fit. Backcountry.com was also easy and fast to deal with.
you're going to have to answer that for yourself, as an individual climber's technique heavily impacts the durability of the rubber. work on precision footwork and overall technique, and you will see your rubber last a lot longer than it did before.
The best shoe I've ever had, good performance, fit, and very technical. Not a beginner's shoe, if you want it to perform well it needs to be at least a size smaller than your street size. The heel has a little wiggle in it, besides that I'm completely satisfied.
5.10 has put their best rubber on this shoe and it is a great shoe for the money. I have two pair and love them. As always try them on before purchasing.
Anytime I want to get my send on, I reach for these bad boys. I love em. They fit my foot very well. Make sure to try them on first before buying as different brands fit differently and different shoes within the same brand will also fit differently.
Also, an FYI for whoever said the soles wore out fast. It's because you're climbing on sandstone. Any sole is going to wear out fast when you climb on sandpaper. I climb on sandstone as well but not in these. I use a cheaper pair for that stuff cause i know they will wear out fast.
Yes, the heel is baggy, but that is why you buy them in your street shoe size. Five-Ten makes their shoes small, so your street shoe size will be tight, which means don't go any smaller like I did, or you'll be knuckled up like crazy! As anyone will tell you: Stealth rubber is the stickiest! The old C4 was stickier than anything on the market, and now Five-Ten makes the Onyx and HF rubbers - are you kidding me?!
I have a pair of Pontas that I couldn't get to stick on some non-existant feet of a sit-down-start. I threw the ol' Anasazies on and stood up like my feet were flat on the ground! Huge difference in performance!
My previous shoe was a La Sportiva Clif shoe and this was a quantum leap in shoe design. These shoes are designed for aggressive climbing and the new heal fits a lot better than the original velcros. Would recommend this shoe to anyone looking for a step up.
Good shoe overall but Five Ten still makes a pretty baggy heel and the material on the inside of the shoe takes ages to soften up and break in. Don't get me wrong, the anasazi velcro has done wonders for climbing technology but it would be nice to see Five Ten expand it's line and not cling on to its old successes. A good alternative for a little cheaper are the evolve pontas's or if you don't mind a little less quality, then even the Mad Rock Mugens.
I have been wearing this shoe for the last few months and i love them. I previously had the 5.10 Galileo, which is a similar shoe, so the transition was not that big of a change. Two things that I like about the Anasazi over the Galileo. First the Anasazi are a little less stiff than the Galileo which makes them a little better when smearing and also since it is a little less stiff they have allowed my foot to become a little stronger and the shoe flexes a little better allowing me to really grab holds with my toes through the shoe even though they are not hugely cambered. Secondly the Anasazi is a narrower shoe than the Galileo which works for me because I dont have a particularly wide foot. I feel that because of this they are a more precise shoe and the weight transmission is better when edging. These shoes break in fairly quickly, it only took a few trips to the climbing gym before they were all broken in. One more thing that these had that I liked more than the Galileo, the heel on these is much better, the heel on the Galileo was great at first but the way they constructed it after a year or so of use the heel stretched out until there was a bubble of air created on my heel that made heel hooking nearly impossible. The redesigned heel on the Anasazi is great, it cups my heel tightly and works very well for heel hooking, no slipping at all. Overall this is a great all around shoe for bouldering or sport climbing and I look forward to trying them out on some longer multi pitch routes this summer.
This is my favorite climbing shoe! I have bought the Anasazi three times now. I use it for sport climbing and bouldering. I don't like to use them for climbing crack, mainly because I buy them small and I think there are better shoes for crack climbing (like La Sportiva Mythos). I notice that it seems to blow the toe out kind of quicker than I would like, but what can you do when you like the way it fits! I still give it 5 stars!
I have a pretty small heel, and I found the heel way too big on these shoes. The fit was tight everywhere else, but I still had a couple cm of flop in the heel.
3rd pair of this type iv'e had, I love them!!!! These shoes fit perfectly on my feetz, the La Sportivas hurt my feetz!!!! They just fit gooood!!! I slay 5.13's!!!!
i would not this shoe for bouldering, nor sport climbing...soft shoes are for crack climbing only! this shoe is perfectly good for toe drag and jams. resoles are cheap, so foot work is not important, keep that in mind beginners or experts!
this shoe is okay to let go...by that i mean to store in a dark, dreary area without ventilation b/c with it's breathable leather (like ledorhosen), you can do anything all day long.
so don't take extra good care of these because they are uber durable.
remember: this is a sport not worth dying for, but risk dyin for.
This is my go to climbing shoe for 80 percent of the climbs I do. So many highlights of my climbing life have been in the Velcros...from a El Cap free more...
Lets just say that the stick is the shit. Onyx has a certain something to it that whether the rock be limestone or granite, you're sure that the tiny, more...
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