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Description

If you only want to own one pair of climbing shoes, these are the ones.

The Five Ten Anasazi VCS Climbing Shoe is perhaps the most adept all-around climbing shoe ever made, which is likely the reason it's also the best selling performance shoe ever made. The medium-stiff midsole combines with the stealth Onyxx rubber for lethal edging ability while the dual hook-and-loop straps make on and off an easy operation.

  • Durable Cowdura uppers provide next-to-skin comfort and a glove-like fit
  • Dual hook-and-loop straps provide a secure closure and make for easy on and off
  • Moderate profile shape allows the shoe to perform on everything from steep boulder problems to slabby test pieces
  • Medium-stiff Anasazi midsoles provide powerful edging performance with good sensitivity
  • Stealth Onyxx rubber is harder than other Stealth formulas for enhanced edging performance
  • Padded tongue works with the hook-and-loop straps to enhance comfort

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Review Summary
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Five Ten Anasazi VCS Climbing Shoe

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Comfortable Shoe

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Shoe fits great and i can leave it on all day, great for multipitch climbs. Very little stretch during break in but then again i expected this. Durable shoe, use it several times a week for Bouldering/Sport/TR.

Looked at a bunch of different shoes before choosing the Anasazi but i'm glad i did, love this shoe.

5 5

Durable and versatile

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I've had these over a year, just got them resoled. I wear a 9/9.5 street and got the Anasazi in 8.5. They don't stretch, I got them half a size too small and boy did I regret it (I did all the tricks - hot water, wet newspaper, even went to a cobbler to stretch them). Really in the end it was about six months of inner wear that made them fit, not because they loosened up. Get them in your street size, you have been warned...

Having said that, they are fantastic shoes. I boulder and route climb in them. Great edges to the toe, heel works well for me, and they don't stink after repeated wear. I've washed them a few times over the last year, but really because they get dirty and I don't use detergent. The loops, velcro, suede material, the inner...all bulletproof. There's a reason why this shoe design has been around for so many years!

5 5

foot is 9.5 inches, got these in 8.0

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I generally wear tiny uncomfortable shoes when I boulder, but I got my "comfy" size in the Anasazi's for outdoor leading and general bouldering days when my feet have swelled up and I can't fit into my performance shoes anymore. My foot is 9.5 inches long, and I got these in 8.0. I have about a half inch or so of play in the toes when i'm crimping them, so I could have sized down another half size with ease, but this is what I got them for.

The Onyx rubber is incredibly sticky and durable and these have quickly become a shoe I go to day after day just for the sheer comfort, performance, and durability of them. The support is there for micro edging and they smear like a dream too.

The heel cup takes some time to break in, but once they do (i don't have a large heel) they hook like a dream with minimal deadspots. They suction well enough to my feet so i'd say 9 times out of 10 I don't even close the velcro on them. Can send and send in comfort and style. Get a pair. Get two! Get them now!

I tried on these a couple of days ago. ...

Posted on

I tried on these a couple of days ago. 9.5 felt perfect, but the heel cup didn't feel super firm. 9 was painfully tight and great in the heel. If I purchased the 9 could I expect these to stretch a full half size?

Responded on

I've had these for about 6 months and they've stretched a tiny bit but I doubt they would go up a half size. I have the same thing with the heel cup being a little loose when I put them on but it's never bothered me while climbing (even when heel hooking). Personally I would go with the 9.5's or find a shoe that fit's better. In my experience, stretching out synthetic shoes begins and ends in tears.

For me though, I will resole these until they fall apart and then buy another pair. They're exactly what I want in a sport shoe.

EDIT: David Graham below says: "when you try them on for the first time, fit them snug then take a step or two and feel heel get set back into the cup to lock the shoe into place, wonderful design!"

Responded on

These don't stretch much. After 2 years they're ready for a resole but my toes still barely curl as the day I got them. If anything they conform to your foot. Same as nbwp, my heel is slightly loose but never been a problem.

Responded on

The heel cup in these particular shoes are a little loose in my opinion. I wouldn't go any lower in size, simply because these things don't stretch and I don't think it would help the heel cup situation either. These are great shoes though. Had them for a couple years and they never failed to get me up a wall.

Responded on

you might want to try the la sportiva muira lace. I had the same sizing issues as you did with these, but the muiras are leather so the stretch out to fit your foot and the heel cup is a much better design for my feet at least.

Unanswered Question

Has anyone used the new version of the...

Posted on

Has anyone used the new version of the shoe? Can you compare it to the old ones.
I've heard they had widened the toe box for the Fall 13 version,

reimers

reimers

Posted on

took out the Anasazi vcs to Reimers tx, the shoes did not disappoint. I wasn't afraid to edge on those small ledges, could smear if I needed to and small pockets weren't a problem. I highly recommend this shoe as a all around sport climbing shoe with decent performance.

5 5

These are the best shoes

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

They're real sticky, just stiff and aggressive enough to edge, but they still work for moderate crack climbing. And they're comfortable enough for multipitch climbs.

5 5

Anasazis doin work

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times
  • Fit: True to size

Here's of photo of my Anasazis in action. No problem sticking to those rocks! Due to the synthetic material, these are starting to get a bit more comfy after wearing them for 20+ climbs. Doesn't stretch much, but forms to your feet after a little bit of use.

Anasazis doin work
5 5

Amazing

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it several times
  • Fit: True to size

these shoes are a great all around shoe. It doesn't get sloppy cause the synthetic material, it doesn't stretches but it will conform a little so size accordingly. The shoes' toebox has a semi a-symmetrical shape which is pretty good for toeing into pockets but better for small edges. The ONYX rubber is really sticky, like I always heard it was sticky and didn't really think it could be that much of a difference but Holy cow it puts the rest of my shoes with Vibrum XS to shame. My one complaint about the shoe is right now the rubber is a little thick so I can't feel much of the rock which scares me, But that just means it'll last longer, I think I still just need to break them in a little more. I wear 11.5-12 street shoes and went with and 11.5 in Anasazi VCS. They fit well for wide feet like mine.
I recommend for an all everyday sport climbing shoe. Good for limestone, and sandstone but not so much on the granite. I tried to crack climb in these once and I was hurtin.
-excellent edging
-meh for smearing on slabs
-no way on cracks
-toe hooks only if i had to
-heel hooks yes but overhangs not really
-if you're into bouldering check out the anasazi moccasyms for a more casual shoe.
That may have sounded a little negative but this is still a GREAT shoe and is pretty much my go to shoe that I save for outdoors sport climbing.
If I could only take 1 pair of shoes this would be them.

Responded on

just a little update after about a season of climbing in these shoes. After break in the shoes smear a little better but edging is still superb. The only thing that broke in was the rubber got a little more flexible after some wear.

still my favorite shoe i save for outdoor sport climbing.

Smearing

Smearing

Posted on

Onyx isn't the best rubber but the shoe smears well

5 5

The do anything shoe.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

Sure the blackwings can toe in a bit better on 90degree roofs but you sacrifice the comfort these give. The upper stretches a bit with time forming the shoe to your foot. These are comfy enough for a few hours of multipitch. The velcro closure is secure and the opening is big enough for easy on and off. The heel is a little big and floppy but honestly the shoe molds to irregularities of the rock and only are a downside on small edges and rails. These have the onyx rubber which I personally think is too firm but very durable. After hitting the rand on one shoe I sent them in to get resoled with some Mystique and these are now the best smearing shoes I've ever had.

There is a reason you see these at every craig, gym and boulder yard, they are a industry standard.

5 5

The best

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
  • Fit: True to size

I have worn these shoes for years and always have a couple pairs on hand. Size it street shoe size for multi pitch. or size down half a size for a more aggressive fit. These edge like no other and are very comfortable

Hey Backcountry, when are you gonna get...

Posted on

Hey Backcountry, when are you gonna get more size 10.5's???

Responded on

Hey,

It looks like we have an order coming in sometime around the end of October that should restock us in size 10.5.

can anyone tell me how these compare to...

Posted on

can anyone tell me how these compare to the other five ten anasazi shoes? specifically the anasazi high-top? or are they almost exactly the same except for the ankle coverage (and how the high top has a tongue for easy on and off but not really what i'm looking for)

Responded on

The high top is a stiff all day shoe for long trad routes etc. these are more of an aggressive performance shoe. Great for edging, cracks and smears

Responded on

Sorry I meant the sizing. Can anyone tell me about how these size compared to the anasazi high top

Responded on

Most Anasazi run just about the same. Beware of the newer brands such as the Arrowhead and Blackwing that have slightly downturned toes. But I'd assume the high top and the VCS fit pretty similarly.

Responded on

The Anasazi high top and VCS fit almost exactly the same. If you have a thinner foot like my brother but like the anasazi except for the volume, try the lace up Anasazi's. My brother ended up getting those because they fit him much snugger. Hope that answers your question.

What has changed in the 2013 model?

Posted on

What has changed in the 2013 model?

Best Answer Responded on

The only change is the color of the shoe and the material the straps are made out of. The newer straps would be a tad more durable if you climb alot of cracks. Same rubber, weight, stiffness, and perormance.

Responded on

They also changed the velcro straps to match the style they had on the Arrowheads and Blackwings so not as much padding but lighter weight and not to long.

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