If you only want to own one pair of climbing shoes, these are the ones.
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS Climbing Shoe is perhaps the most adept all-around climbing shoe ever made, which is likely the reason it's also the best selling performance shoe ever made. The medium-stiff midsole combines with the stealth Onyxx rubber for lethal edging ability while the dual hook-and-loop straps make on and off an easy operation.
- Durable Cowdura uppers provide next-to-skin comfort and a glove-like fit
- Dual hook-and-loop straps provide a secure closure and make for easy on and off
- Moderate profile shape allows the shoe to perform on everything from steep boulder problems to slabby test pieces
- Medium-stiff Anasazi midsoles provide powerful edging performance with good sensitivity
- Stealth Onyxx rubber is harder than other Stealth formulas for enhanced edging performance
- Padded tongue works with the hook-and-loop straps to enhance comfort
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Share your thoughts
I tried on these a couple of days ago. ...
I tried on these a couple of days ago. 9.5 felt perfect, but the heel cup didn't feel super firm. 9 was painfully tight and great in the heel. If I purchased the 9 could I expect these to stretch a full half size?
I've had these for about 6 months and they've stretched a tiny bit but I doubt they would go up a half size. I have the same thing with the heel cup being a little loose when I put them on but it's never bothered me while climbing (even when heel hooking). Personally I would go with the 9.5's or find a shoe that fit's better. In my experience, stretching out synthetic shoes begins and ends in tears.
For me though, I will resole these until they fall apart and then buy another pair. They're exactly what I want in a sport shoe.
EDIT: David Graham below says: "when you try them on for the first time, fit them snug then take a step or two and feel heel get set back into the cup to lock the shoe into place, wonderful design!"
These don't stretch much. After 2 years they're ready for a resole but my toes still barely curl as the day I got them. If anything they conform to your foot. Same as nbwp, my heel is slightly loose but never been a problem.
The heel cup in these particular shoes are a little loose in my opinion. I wouldn't go any lower in size, simply because these things don't stretch and I don't think it would help the heel cup situation either. These are great shoes though. Had them for a couple years and they never failed to get me up a wall.
Has anyone used the new version of the...
Has anyone used the new version of the shoe? Can you compare it to the old ones.
I've heard they had widened the toe box for the Fall 13 version,
took out the Anasazi vcs to Reimers tx, the shoes did not disappoint. I wasn't afraid to edge on those small ledges, could easily smear if I needed to and small pockets weren't a problem. I highly recommend this shoe as a all around sport climbing shoe with decent high performance. after all it's the climber that makes the shoe not the other way around.
These are the best shoes
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
They're real sticky, just stiff and aggressive enough to edge, but they still work for moderate crack climbing. And they're comfortable enough for multipitch climbs.
Anasazis doin work
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: True to size
Here's of photo of my Anasazis in action. No problem sticking to those rocks! Due to the synthetic material, these are starting to get a bit more comfy after wearing them for 20+ climbs. Doesn't stretch much, but forms to your feet after a little bit of use.
these shoes are great, the perfect combination of aggressive and semi-comfortable. (aggressive as I would want to go on most sport routes) It has a slight downturn which doesn't get sloppy cause the synthetic material, it stretches about 1/4 size which is perfect. The shoe has an a-symmetric shape which is great for toeing into pockets or small edges. Not to mention ONYX rubber which is really sticky, like I always heard it was sticky and didn't really think it could be that much of a difference but Holy cow it puts the rest of my sportive Vibrum XS to shame. My one complaint about the shoe is right now the rubber is a little thick so I can't feel much of the rock which scares me, But that just means it'll last longer, I think I still just need to break them in a little more. I wear 12-12.5 street shoes and went with and 11 in Anasazi VCS. Highly recommend for an all purpose shoe (maybe not for cracks but I hear others say differently, haven't tried them on crack yet)
P.S. when you try them on for the first time, fit them snug then take a step or two and feel heel get set back into the cup to lock the shoe into place, wonderful design!
Anasazi: My go to do-it-all shoe.
Onyx isn't the best rubber but the shoe smears well
The do anything shoe.
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
Sure the blackwings can toe in a bit better on 90degree roofs but you sacrifice the comfort these give. The upper stretches a bit with time forming the shoe to your foot. These are comfy enough for a few hours of multipitch. The velcro closure is secure and the opening is big enough for easy on and off. The heel is a little big and floppy but honestly the shoe molds to irregularities of the rock and only are a downside on small edges and rails. These have the onyx rubber which I personally think is too firm but very durable. After hitting the rand on one shoe I sent them in to get resoled with some Mystique and these are now the best smearing shoes I've ever had.
There is a reason you see these at every craig, gym and boulder yard, they are a industry standard.
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
I have worn these shoes for years and always have a couple pairs on hand. Size it street shoe size for multi pitch. or size down half a size for a more aggressive fit. These edge like no other and are very comfortable
Hey Backcountry, when are you gonna get...
Hey Backcountry, when are you gonna get more size 10.5's???
It looks like we have an order coming in sometime around the end of October that should restock us in size 10.5.
can anyone tell me how these compare to...
can anyone tell me how these compare to the other five ten anasazi shoes? specifically the anasazi high-top? or are they almost exactly the same except for the ankle coverage (and how the high top has a tongue for easy on and off but not really what i'm looking for)
The high top is a stiff all day shoe for long trad routes etc. these are more of an aggressive performance shoe. Great for edging, cracks and smears
Sorry I meant the sizing. Can anyone tell me about how these size compared to the anasazi high top
Most Anasazi run just about the same. Beware of the newer brands such as the Arrowhead and Blackwing that have slightly downturned toes. But I'd assume the high top and the VCS fit pretty similarly.
The Anasazi high top and VCS fit almost exactly the same. If you have a thinner foot like my brother but like the anasazi except for the volume, try the lace up Anasazi's. My brother ended up getting those because they fit him much snugger. Hope that answers your question.
Anasazi VCS by outdoor gear lab
What has changed in the 2013 model?
What has changed in the 2013 model?
The only change is the color of the shoe and the material the straps are made out of. The newer straps would be a tad more durable if you climb alot of cracks. Same rubber, weight, stiffness, and perormance.
They also changed the velcro straps to match the style they had on the Arrowheads and Blackwings so not as much padding but lighter weight and not to long.