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  • Five Ten - Anasazi Guide Climbing Shoe - Hero Brown/Black
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  • Five Ten - Anasazi Guide Climbing Shoe - Hero Brown/Black

Five Ten Anasazi Guide Climbing Shoe

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    7 Reviews

    Details

    The comfort and performance you want on techy multipitch routes.

    Five Ten designed its Anasazi Guide Climbing Shoe for multipitch trad climbs with thin cracks and technical edging throughout. Its flat profile brings all-day comfort for long days in the vertical world, and its moderate curvature uses a flat toe to help you toe-jam in finger cracks without a problem. Stealth C4 rubber sticks to imaginary nubbins and tiny edges so you can use your fancy footwork skills to get past blank walls successfully. Five Ten built the Guide's upper out of leather for the durability you need to climb crack for multiple seasons, and the synthetic midsole helps reduce stretch. The lacing closure provides a snug fit all the way down to your toes.

    • Leather upper
    • Synthetic midsole
    • Lace closure
    • Flat profile, moderate curvature
    • Stealth C4 rubber
    • Item #FVT000G

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    leather
    Closure
    laces
    Midsole
    synthetic
    Rubber
    Stealth C4
    Profile
    flat
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    moderate
    Claimed Weight
    [single, size 9] 9.4 oz
    Recommended Use
    trad climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

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    Anasazi Guide

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 11

    Great all around shoe for all crags - its my cool weather shoe for long Fall outings. I bought them a half size up so I could wear a thin sock underneath. They perform with comfort - try that with any other shoe. Great shoe for beginners to experts.

    great for beginners

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 11 us

    At first look you can tell this is not the most aggressive design, and the toe box is a little more spade headed. It's great for beginning climbers still working on their foot work. I'm a Nebraskan we have a tragic lack of crags and spires, so the vast majority of my climbing is done in the gym. Which is really in my opinion this shoe's wheel house. Be sure to utilize backcountry.com's return policy do not settle for a shoe that is uncomfortably tight.

    This shoe's "wheelhouse" is hardly in the gym...unless gyms these days allow you to climb all-day multi-pitch routes with finger->hand crack systems and slabs the require smearing and confident edging. Just because a shoe is not 'aggressive' does not make it a beginner shoe. That being said, this would make a good beginner shoe...

    Not a great design but my wife likes

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 7.5 US M

    I bought these for my wife. She's a climbing addict but not aggressive, keeping things fun and relatively easy (5.7-5.10). I was looking for something stiff soled to provide a bit more edging support than her mythos but keeping the same flat profile for jamming and long climbing.

    Initially ordered a size 7 1/2 US M (~EU 40), her typical (sportiva, scarpa, evolv) size. The shoes came comically small. There was no way we could get them on her feet, without breaking bones first. We exchanged for size 9 US M (~EU42) which fit much better but do have more bulk* above the toe than I think makes sense for a shoe advertised for toe jamming finger cracks. The lacing provides more than enough adjustment to get tight around her foot.

    Once we got the right sizing she now loves these shoes. They're sticky and supportive. In the end an excellent shoe for her. They've been a big confidence boost and improvement in her climbing. I've since seen her go right for and even rest on feet which had caused hesitation and pain in her Mythos. She also really likes the color. (They're not brown, more of the maroon/burgundy pictured which complements the color of her Grivel belay hardware nicely). The best part is now she remembers what a big difference a shoe can make and flinches, less, when I say I want to buy yet another pair of shoes for me. ;)

    Given the flat profile, marketing for toe jamming, and included 5.10 packaging that warns against cramming (what their shoes had been great for, prior to purchase by Addias?) I really can't understand why their sizing seems to be so much smaller (~2 whole US sizes smaller) than all other manufacturers I've tried.

    I also noticed that both pairs we received suffer from the same asymmetric (different right shoe to left shoe) rand issue documented in the review by dzo105750250 though this seemed to have little affect on the fit or feel for my wife.

    These are probably best suited for a relaxed climber, beginner, or weekend warrior, who will benefit from additional support and isn't likely to be climbing at a level requiring expert sensitivity at the cost of support. The flat profile means these aren't really ideal for aggressive, overhung type moves but with sticky rubber and attention to foot work/body movement you'd be surprised how far you can take a flat profile shoe. Expect stiffness/support to diminish over time due to heat, moisture, and materials relaxing (try not to leave in a hot trunk or car) though this will likely increase sensitivity and performance on slabby climbs some if the stretch from the leather upper doesn't make them sloppy. Plan to buy from a retailer who will accept return/exchanges so you have the ability to get the right sizing.

    @Ivan Mercado thanks for handling the exchange quickly and painlessly.

    *(upper seems to belong on a more down-turned shoe where your big toe may be nearly perpendicular to the sole but then mated to a flat bottom, however, the edge of the awkward rand will get in the way if sized this aggressively and would additionally make these useless for jamming)

    My favorite

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    I bought these after getting a pair of TC Pros that was just not doing it for me. I love these shoes. I have smeared slabs, jammed cracks, and edged my way up routes from LCC and BCC to Moab and the Creek with them. They are really comfortable, easily wear them all day long, and the rubber is really sticky, nice on the slabs. They are a soft shoe, but have enough stoutness to them to edge great as well. I was a little worried about the "square" toe at first, but surprisingly it does great, it allows for a nice stance on the tips of your toes on small edges, as well as jams into finger size cracks really well. At first the heel kind of bugged me, but after a couple of weeks they either broke in, or I got used to it, don't even notice it now.

    *Almost 100 pitches later:
    This is still my favorite trad/crack shoe. It really excels when playing in the huge cracks of Vedauwoo. The quilted leather uppers cushions quite well against the sharp crystals that tend to be present on many of the cracks there.

    I keep seeing the same thing on reviews, these are beginner shoes, and not very aggressive, but they are not suppose to be. The design is for a comfortable, all day trad shoe, which they do great. They smear great, they jam great (even finger sized cracks, which is surprising with the weird toe), edge decent, and even heel hook fairly well. No, they are not aggressive sport shoes, not designed to be, but if you are looking for something that you can stem a chimney one pitch, jam a crack the next, and finish out with some slab and edging, this shoe will not disappoint.

    Two different sized shoes

    • Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

    My initial impression was of a very high quality shoe with very sticky rubber. Even trying them on I felt I was wearing a very well crafted piece of footwear. What I couldn't figure out was why my right foot which has always been slightly shorter felt so cramped. Then I took a closer look and saw the problems. The rand across the toes is almost a half inch higher on right shoe meaning my big toe cannot curl over easily. It creates unbearable pain at the top of the joint. I also stood the shoes end to end and found the right one to be over a quarter inch shorter than the left. You would think making two identical shoes would be easy for a shoe manufacturer.

    Stiff and Comfy

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    The Five Ten Anasazi Guide are awesome all day climbing shoes!



    They work super well on mutli-pitches where you're jamming feet and toes as well as edging and smearing. I've worn them on 80+ pitches this year and they didn't disappoint!



    Here are some rad things about the Guides that stand out to me.

    -Flat profile, making all day wear in these stiff shoes easier on your feet.

    -Toe to heel laces make the most ideal and true fit.

    -Sticky C4 Stealth Rubber keeps you glued to the wall and cranking out the pitches.

    -Breathable tongue and shoe material give great air ventilation.

    -Heel construction fits great and keeps the weight on your toes for edging and thin cracks!



    Super pleased with these shoes, sized them to my standard street shoe, and can't wait to keep climbing pitch after pitch in the Guides!

    TRAD-ER-IFFIC!!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    looking for the perfect do everything trad shoe? Cause you found it!

    Super comfy all day, sticky rubber, and they breath!

    there is a jersey/mesh material on the tongue that feels so good against your foot and allows it to breath. the heel is really comfy but still translates power to your piggies for good edging ability, even when fit a bit big for all day use. and the lined leather does not stretch much at all but breaks in super nice and allows for good breathing. The sole on these is thicker than any other shoe I have owned, and amazingly enough it does not hamper the feel of the shoe, but I am sure it will be a long time before they wear out and need a re-sole. I have a pair of La Sportiva Mythos, that will just gather dust now that I have an awesome trad shoe with sticky rubber.



    the fit of this one is similar to the rest of the Anasazi's. I wear a 12 in the pinks for an aggressive fit, and a 13 in these is just right for all day comfort with no sacrifice in performance. They knuckle my toes just a bit. I have not tried them in Jam cracks yet, but I imagine they will do well in finger cracks where you toe into the crack, I feel like my toes are too curled to properly foot jam a hand size crack. But for slab, and alpine, and long multi pitch this is my new go-to shoe