The next generation.
- Stealth Mystique rand for supreme friction on desperate toe hooks
- Dual hook-and-loop closures for quick and easy on and off
- Cowdura upper lets these shoes mold to your feet without undue stretch
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Share your thoughts
great shoe, does not strech
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
- Fit: Runs small
Really Liked the shoe, had great edging and sticky rubber, I have a mens 12 shoe size and I got a size 11(44) size, after a week and a half there was no give, short climbs were still awful. If they had a size up in the same price would have gotten those, traded the shoes in for Madrock Con-flict
Really good shoe
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
So first of all if you boulder this shoe is going to be amazing for you, also if you sport climb this shoe is going to be amazing for you. I think that it is a really good shoe even for the price. personally i use this shoe more for bouldering because if you get the right size you can put A LOT of power in the toe on pretty much any foot chip, like i say if you get the right size it will fit to your heel really well and you will have no problem with heel hooks, but one thing is this shoe i feel is a narrow shoe and if you have a wide foot you may not like this shoe. As for sizing i got a half size smaller then my normal street shoe size. It may feel awful at first and even for the first week or two but this shoe formed to my foot and is very comfortable now. Overall i love the shoe and first time using a 5.10 shoe and i am impressed even after wearing la sportiva solutions for a year now i really like this shoe
Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award
What a solid climbing shoe. I really like the performance of the Stealth Onyxx rubber; durable and super sticky. The slight down-turned toe adds to edging power on crimpy footholds and steeper angles.
Sizing: After buying three pair of different sizes I found that these shoes were sized to match my street shoe size. Any smaller was painfully tight, but street shoe size was perfect.
Five Ten Arrowhead Climbing Shoe
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
as the title says, these shoes are phenomenal. the edging on these shoes is unmatched. my foot hasnt slipped off the tinniest of all footholds since ive gotten these, and i can stand on just about anything while feeling completely secure, and confident. They are not the most downturned shoes, and lose a bit of aggressiveness after a few times in them, but still are great on overhangs. it has a nice pointy toe for digging deep into pockets. people say they are uncomfortable, but once you break them in, i think they are one of the more comfortable downturned shoes. smearing of course isnt all that great, but then again why would you expect such a downturned shoe to be good at smearing. And of course you cant go wrong with these shoes, as they have five tens stealth onyxx rubber, which i believe is the best rubber out there. i wear a 10.5 street shoe, and went with a 9.5 in these. the first couple days were pretty agonizing, but after a while they were quite comfortable, and the performance fit is well worth it. my only concern is that i am beginning to see glue from where the rubber toe cap was. No matter what level of climber you are, This shoe will easily improve your climbing.
Thinking about getting these! yay or...
Thinking about getting these! yay or nay?
What do you usually climb? they have great edges and the slight down turn makes it really easy to stand on holds. They are pretty sick shoes though. they would definitely be a great pair to have
This is my second fiveten anasazi shoe, was more than happy with the first one, and this one exceeded my expectaions. i had read the reviews and was hoping it would perform as well as waht people were saying and it did even more than that. Love the velcro straps so much easier and faster to put on and take off the shoe.
Agressive fit with good all around performance
I looked at a lot of options before buying these shoes, it came down to either these or the La Sportiva Katana's. La Sportiva is tricky for me because I have a wider toe box, and I haven't ever seemed to feel comfortable in Evolvs. When I demo'd these I was pretty impressed - the heel fit and the cambered sole are fantastic for bouldering and technical sport climbing. I use them primarily for these purposes, and a little multi-pitch.
The edging is fantastic, the smearing is very good for a downturned shoe, and they provide a feeling of power in the toe area when you're barely able to get a toe in tiny foothold pockets. I personally prefer the Mystique rubber over the Onyx, it seems to provide both sensitivity along with confidence that my foot isn't going to slip. The 5.10 Quantum seems to be a very similar designed shoe but with laces.
I do wish they had a little more rubber on the toe, and not to sound petty, but did it have to be bright orange? Other than that they're pretty rad, glad I picked them up.
im torn between getting either these or...
im torn between getting either these or the jet7s. any thoughts on which i should choose and why?
Jets are more aggressive and smell worse. The jets have the fully rubberized toe box, which makes them a little better for toe hooking, but the difference isn't huge.
Each shoe is better (in my opinion) for:
Fundamentally, the jet 7 is a bouldering shoe. It was designed by professional boulderers specificly for very agressive overhanging climbing. The Arrowhead also excells at bouldering, but uses a much harder rubber, very good for edging. They are both quite down turned, the jet 7 is a little more agreesive then the arrowhead, but as far as fit, they are almost the same. Also, because the jet 7 is a bouldering shoe, it has features like the added rubber on the toe and heel for hooking. I own a pair of arrowheads, and suggest them to anyone looking for a high end pair of shoes. Especially to 5.10+ sport climbers. The rubber on the arrowheads will also last longer, saving the shoe from several resoles, you will have to resole the Jet 7 much more often. If you dont use these shoes in the gym, they wont need as much resoling in general, so I guess it doesnt make a huge difference.
In conclusion, both are superior quality shoes. It all comes down to what youll be using them for.
Best 5.10 shoe there is
Amazing shoe!! I would have to strongly disagree with saying that these are just for bouldering and overhung sport. I fit them snug, but definitely not tight. These are all around crushers. Crack, face, slab, and all day multi-pitching. I have tried most of the upper end of the 5.10 line and these are def the best. The only downfall is that they blow out fairly quickly, as is with most 5.10s.
Edges like no other.
These shoes suprised me the first time I opened the box, they are bright, bright orange. From pictures online its hard to tell, but buyers beware. Anyway, these shoes once I tried them on hurt my feet... alot, usually I try to downsize my rock shoes at least half to a full size, but these I had to go big. I was a little disapointed with the fit and feel, I put them on and took a lap around the living room, and let me say, my toes were numb when I took them off, but never the less I took a leap of faith and bought them.
Two weeks latter...
Once I broke these shoes in I love them, no doubt, one hundred percent. What hurt originally was the tops of my toes that were constantly being forced against the top of the shoe. I later have found out that the perferated rand is there for a reason, after a good five bouldering sessions my feet felt fine, and I'm very glad. How do they preform? Amazingly. I can stand on the smallest micro edges with ease. I can jam and twist my foot into any position I need to in order to make the move necessary. This shoe took me from the world of V1-3, into the world of V4-6. I can now top out on 11a,b,c,d's. And can lead them in the gym too. Let me make myself perfectly clear when I say these shoes don't mess around. Plus the velco dual closure system and split tounge openning allow me to take this shoe on and off in record time, letting my feet take a break. The Cowdura tounge and full lined synthetic upper wick all moisture of my feet and keep me cool as well as dry for long climbs and never ending multi-pitch routes.
The only thing this shoe might lack is grip on overhanging routes. Unfortuanately me, being an avid boulderer, need a shoe than can grip to what ever I thow it on. Infact I was a little disapointed with Five Ten for not finding a way to make their ONYX rubber stickier. But, after all, it is alot harder and more durable than many other rubbers, like Vibram's Ex-s Edge, MadRock's Science Friction, and Evolv's Trax rubber. I have only owned La Sportivas and Five Tens so far, so I'm not fermiliar with the preformance of these other rubbers. All I know is that I love these shoes, next pair might be a more bouldering- oriented shoe, hopefully that will edge similarly to this one. By the way, this shoe has a very wide heel cup, and me having a narrow heal have alot of trouble heel hooking on smaller holds. As far as toe hooking goes, I recommend Five Ten's Stealth Paint. If you can get it to work it provides massive coverage for crack climbing and toe hooks, BUT MAKE SURE you've broken in the shoe before applying it. Like I said the toe does expand and conform to your foot after a while.
In conclusion, I recommend this shoe to people who want to work their way into more advanced, and better preforming climbing footwear. This shoe, being down turned and rather uncomfortable at first, isn't a very good shoe for beginners. Good luck to all the climbers out there, and buyers, if this shoe sounds like he one you want I highly encourage you to get it, it's worth the high price.
A few months in
I got these a couple months ago and I love them. For the record, I have a bit of a Mortons toe and these fit beautifully, something I didnt expect from such an asymmetrical shoe. The pointy toe is fantastic for getting into pockets, edging feels like your standing on a platform, and heel-hooking is a dream (when fit correctly, read below). These are not truly all-round shoes, more for those overhanging sport/bouldering routes, but they are perfect when paired with a more natural-last shoe that you can stand around in all day. They are okay for smearing in, though not great, and there is no rubber on the top for toe hooking which means if you are a very heavy toe-hooker it may wear out on top faster than youd like.
A note about fitting: The Anasazi series has a very form-fitting heel that can be a pain at first. I have read a lot of complaints about the heel compressing a lot in the Anasazi series of shoes, but this is because they fitting them correctly. In general, a half size down from your street shoe is likely idea for these. The heel folds in when not in use (this ensures the snug fit) and it is easy to put them on without getting your foot all the way into the heel of the shoe. When you are pulling on the heel, make sure to extend your toes outwards like youre pushing it away. This makes sure that your foot slides in nicely and the heel fits snuggly, and it also keeps your toes from being so curled that it hurts.
Overall, I am extremely happy with this shoe and would recommend it to just about anyone.
not impressed. its a basic downturned velcro shoe.
no fancy design innovations. no real improvements.
IMO this shoe is just an orange version of evolv predator(first model)
How does the size on these compare to the...
How does the size on these compare to the Five Ten Blackwing?
For reference, I wear a 10 in the Blackwing, and a 41 in La Sportiva Miuras. I've tried wearing the Anasazi Lace-Up in a 9, and it felt about a half size too small for me (the aggressive heel was killing my achilles tendon.) I'm wondering if a 9.5 will work in these?
My street shoe is between 10 and 10.5, long, narrow feet.
I have long narrow feet and personally I can't get comfortable in Five Ten's. I have to size down too much to take out the extra width, but then my toes and achilles are too tight. If I were you'd I'd just stick with La Sportiva or maybe check out Scarpa, the Feroce is a great shoe that's similar to this.
Ok I'll answer my own question. The Arrowhead runs bigger than the Blackwing. A 10 in Blackwing fits perfectly, and a 10 in Arrowhead fits about a half size too big.
So here's a reference chart for some Five Ten fits (for a street size between 10 and 10.5:
Blackwing - 10
Arrowhead - 9.5
Coyote - 9 - 9.5
Supermocc - 8.5 - 9
Moccasym - 8.5 - 9
Ryan - extra width? These arrowheads are about the narrowest shoes I've ever seen. I have wide feet and there was just no way these were going to work. I did love the heel, it's very snug.
I was going to check out Feroce's, I tried on a base Scarpa model and was impressed with the width in the forefoot area. Are the Feroce's more narrow?
stupid duck feet...
How do these size in comparison to the La...
How do these size in comparison to the La Sportiva Solutions?
I wear a 6.5 in solutions, and my friend has some size 9.5 arrowheads that are about 2 or 2.5 sizes too big on me. Hope this helps!
i.e. size up a size or two for sure
Ryan, I would go with your street shoe size in these.
I have 7.5 street shoes and i have size 9 in these, and its still painful after half an hour, so i would try get size or two bigger then try on and see if you spot any hot areas (Too much friction). hope this helps
These shoes are sick!!! I have been climbing in them for about 3 weeks, the break in period was a little rough but not too bad, after 4 or 5 times climbing in them in the gym they broke in pretty well and became a lot more bearable. They have a much more aggressive camber and toe hook than the Anasazi VCS, so this is going to be more of a steep wall/bouldering shoe than the Anasazi VCS which is a very solid all around shoe with little to no camber. They have a very tight heel that nearly forms a suction cup perfect for heel hooks. The camber on the sole makes them great for people with higher arches. I have found these are great for edging and toeing in on overhanging walls, but on slab the camber makes them more difficult to smear with. These are an awesome shoe for anyone looking for an agressive bouldering or sport shoe for climbing overhung walls.
As far as sizing goes I would recommend sizing down a half size from your street shoe size of you want a very agressive fit. My other shoes are the 5.10 Anasazi VCS and for those I sized a full size down from my street shoe for a very snug performance fit. With my Arrowheads I only sized down a half size because they run very tight on account of the narrow last and the fact that they have a cambered sole and a fairly agressive toe hook which both cut down the volume of the shoe quite a bit. At first I thought even going a half size down might have been too tight but after they broke in a little bit they were perfect, still very tight, but perfect for what I was looking for in an agressive bouldering shoe.