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Description

This shoe climbs 5.15.

As part of Chris Sharma’s signatures series, the Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe gives you uncompromising performance on steep sport climbs and boulder problems. Sharma designed the Optimus Prime with a down-cambered last and a symmetrical toe box for maximum power transmission on overhanging terrain. The deep heel cup and hook-and-loop straps keep your foot locked in, and the oval-grid rand gives you an edge on techy toe hooks.

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Review Summary
5
23 4
11 3
2 2
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Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe

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Here's what others have to say...

4 5

Great shoes for fat feet

I have a wide-high volume for foot. I also have the first two toes about the same length. Though it is a little baggy on the sides of the heel the shoe fits great. They are a huge pain to break in but you can get used to them. For the first 2 weeks I hated them.

I went up half a size and they were still painful at first. However they allow a wide foot to velcro up where other evolv shoes barely pulled close.

4 5

Love the shoe, but get the right size

I wear size 13 (US) and got size 11 to see if I could just wait out the pain and let the shoe stretch. Shoe didn't stretch and pain didn't go away. I love the shoe and I know that if I had a better size, I'd use them a lot more.

Responded on

dang man, it would have been a chore for you to go down to 12's. It's impressive you even fit into the 11's!

I'd suggest going a half size down from street if you're used to agressive shoes and you want them sized for performance. Only go a whole size down if you want them to be specialized performance shoes, and highly uncomfortable. It'll hurt a good amount going even a 1/2 size down from street and they take a good month or two of use to stretch 1/4-1/2 a size, but there is stretch to them and I believe it mostly comes from working out some space in the heel.

3 5

Tight!

I got these in 10, I'm a 10.5 street and I ware 9.5 nagos but they are way to tight. I tried a bit of light stuff and couldn't do anything because my feet hurt so bad.

seems to be a common problem.
see the pic for a comparison of my two shoes.

(edit): Going on 10 hours in them, starting to get better, still feels tight and its a huge difference from my nagos but i feel like once these break in as much as my nagos these will be good for a few hours at a time.

Tight!
5 5

I love these

My foot size is 9.5, but I got these in 9.0. Could have gone down to 8.5 if I wanted 2 weeks of solid pain.

After about 4 months of 3-4x a week (mostly in the gym) there is a bit of stretch overall and the heel has bagged out which made me sad as it was so perfect when i first strapped them on, but the toe is still pristine and the heel is functional.

The downturn to these babies hasn't changed a bit since the day i first put them on and they have no problem climbing vertical, slab, or overhanging terrain. After a solid break in period the Primes will be a decent smearing shoe for you, but they are downturned so it may not be incredibly comfortable to do so.

The wider toe box isn't that noticable on the wall (except for slight comfort). the primes still have a small point and can be jammed into pockets. If nothing else the rubber is sticky enough to grab the smallest crystals on a vertical wall and hang on tight.

I will be getting these again, especially if they're on sale. If not, I may try resoling these whenever they actually need it . .maybe in another 4-8 months?

I use deodorizor on my pair and if I go 1-3 sessions w/o my feet reek. Not so much the shoes even, but my own freaking feet once they're out of em. I whole heartedly suggest using some spray, or any of the numerous methods described in the multiple reveiws of various synthetic evolv shoes. It's bad, but avoidable!

Hi, I need help in getting the right size...

Posted on

Hi, I need help in getting the right size for the Evolv prime climbing shoes. If anyone out there that have a pair maybe you can advice me. I have tried on a pair of Evolv Defy climbing shoes and the right size in that model is between 8 and 8.5. Should I get an 8 or 8.5 in the Evolv prime. Someone said that I should get a half size larger then the other models because the prime is design to be real tight.

Responded on

I was between a 9.5 and 9.0 and I got the 9.0.

They hurt pretty good for the first 2 weeks and I'd put a good 20+ hours on them. Since then I've been wearing them a lot for the past 4 months and the 9.0 is getting a bit baggy in the heel, but other than that the fit has remained pretty similar. The heel is still excellent for hooking and secure enough that I don't ever worry about it. The Toe is lined and packs out a bit as well, but it'll give you a great fit after a while. At the moment, i'm extremely glad I got the 9.0's. excellent shoe.

Responded on

oh in the defy . . didn't see that.

My foot is exactly 9.5 inches long and the primes are definitely meant to fit right on those sizes. 9.0 was small for me with the primes in the beginning, but works perfectly for me now. could almost go a whole size down if you are in between sizes aka 9.25 inch foot or something maybe a 8.5 would work if you're into an incredibly agressive shoes.

I always size pretty damn agressive and going from 9.5(foot size) to 9.0 was about my limit for these. Again, they bag out a bit over time in the toe and heel.

Responded on

Hey Dan I bought these shoes twice. Once in size 11 and another size 11.5. I own Defy size 10.5 as well and wear 9.5 street. The defy 10.5 fit perfect and the 11 primes I could not get on. The 11.5 are very very tight and hurt my feat. I wish i bought the size 12. So if 8.5 fit with defy buy size 10, 9.5 might fit.

5 5

great!!

these shoes are awesome!! they do fit tight though.. which I like...

I wear a 9.5 in street shoes would 8.5 be...

Posted on

I wear a 9.5 in street shoes would 8.5 be to small?

Best Answer Responded on

hon,

I just got the laceup version of this shoe and ordered my street size (8.5). The shoe as adjusted so that your normal street size will perform aggressively as a climbing shoe, therefor: order a 9 or 9.5. The synthetic upper won't stretch much... at all.

Happy trails!

5 5

fit was right on!

I wear a 9.5 in my street shoe, bought the primes in a 9.5 just received today, fit was perfect. very clean shoe, going outside to climb with them tomorrow. Have no concerns that they wont perform well.

4 5

Got that steeeezz

Shoes are dope.
Filthin routes with ease.
Super tight so half size or size up.
Don't get if you are a rookie.

4 5

Love the shoes...almost

Shoes are everything that I want and are not my first Evolv shoes however these are a bit on the wide side making them just a tad loose for hard climbs.

2 5

Smell Horrible

Good performance and they will get you to the top with ease, but these things start to stink quick!!

Smell Horrible

Need assistance on these climbing shoes.

I...

Posted on

Need assistance on these climbing shoes.

I am currently using Five Ten Anasazi Verdes in size 12.5. After about 1.5 hrs of climbing, left foot starts to hurt. Shortly after, my right foot follows. They are beginning to break down and I'm looking for a replacement shoe. My problem is my feet size limits my options.

My foot size is 12.5 US Mens with D-Medium/Standard width.

I've climbed in both Evolv Defys (13.5) & Evos (13). I then went with Anasazi VCS in size 13 since my rock climbing started to progress but the VCS was too loose. The Anasazi Verdes feel great but pain after a while, which I believe is normal and most of the time I don't even lace them up.

I want a more technical shoe but I'm limited. I was told that Evolv are good fit for people with larger feet.

How will the fit be for someone like me? 12.5 US Mens with a D (Medium/Standard) width?

Responded on

http://www.evolvesports.com/service-sizing.htm

Check this out. I just bought some evolve size 9.5 and I wear a 10 regular US. They were too small. I found this article and it helped with fitting an evolv shoe.

2 5

Bummer.

I bought these shoes when I really didn't know what to look for in a performance bouldering shoe so I just took a shot in the dark. I missed. I lost the edge on the toe box and blew out the rand in four months. The heel is only good if you can put it down nearly perpendicular and the toe box is too fat to fit into smaller pockets. For a $120 I expected a much higher quality product. I have since switched to La Sportiva and never looked back.

Do these shoes stretch at all? I have been...

Posted on

Do these shoes stretch at all? I have been getting some intense blisters.

Responded on

Hey Mathew,

Since they are synthetic, not really.

Responded on

Throw them in the oven at low heat for a quick min or in the micro for about 20 sec and slip your foot in. Trust me had 3 pairs this works outstandingly!

5 5

best shoes for me.

These are the ONLY performance shoe that has ever fit my foot even close to well... My second toe is longer, my heel is narrow, and my forefoot is fat and wide. These shoes fit great!

But beware the sizing, if at all possible, try a pair on.

4 5

good shoe, tight fit

I wear a 10.5 to 11 size shoe, I ordered an 11 in this shoe, and it was way too small, 11 fit more like a 9. Climbing shoes are supposed to fit snug and curl the toes a bit, but they are not supposed to feel like Cinderellas sisters did, when they tried on the glass slipper

4 5

Great shoe, way too small

I wear a 10.5 to 11 size shoe, I ordered an 11 in this shoe, and it was way too small, 11 fit more like a 9. Climbing shoes are supposed to fit snug and curl the toes a bit, but they are not supposed to feel like Cinderellas sisters did, when they tried on the glass slipper

4 5

Works Good

The only evolv shoes i like to climb in

5 5

Great for except when these are not!

These are the only shoes I climb with, gone through a couple of pairs now. I get to climbing single pitch routes almost all the time and these shoes are awesome. I have wider feet and they have the perfect arch, edging etc.

Just back from long trip in red rocks where these shoes were on only really long climbs like crimson 1000ft, group therapy 800 ft and these shoes were absolutely horrible. My toes went numb from the pain. These are not the shoes for long sustained routes. Even with the straps open they were bad. So if you want to climb long trad routes, try something else...

4 5

Great Synthetic Shoe

I have used this shoe outdoors and indoors for sport climbing as well as bouldering now for about 6 months. This shoe is very comfortable and supportive once you dial in the correct size as it doesn't stretch much due to being a synthetic material. The only gripe i have with the shoe as others have mentioned as the sole doesn't last quite as long as I would have liked and they are getting stinky. I would highly recommend this shoe nonetheless.

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