Lightweight InsulationLightweight Insulation

Description

This shoe climbs 5.15.

As part of Chris Sharma's signatures series, the super-tight Evolv Optimus Prime SC Climbing Shoe gives you uncompromising performance on steep sport climbs and techy boulder problems. Sharma designed the Optimus Prime with a down-cambered last and a symmetrical toe box for maximum power transmission on overhanging terrain.
  • Trax rubber over the toe for more secure hooking on steep terrain
  • Hook-and-loop closure for easy on and off
  • Perforated tongue increases ventilation
  • Cotton lining reduces stretch and keeps this shoe from outgrowing your foot

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Review Summary
5
1 4
1 3
1 2
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Evolv Optimus Prime SC Climbing Shoe

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Here's what others have to say...

Unanswered Question

I want to buy this shoes.But ? don't know...

Posted on

I want to buy this shoes.But ? don't know what number ? hve to buy ? I wear five ten anasazi VCS 8.5.Which number is logicially in evolv?

3 5

Not Perfect, but Pretty Good.

I have mixed feelings about this shoe. I really like the construction. The perforated material, lining, and lack of loose strings are excellent, far better than most Evolv shoes I've used. I also was impressed by the rubber coverage on the toe and sides. This shoes edge well and is absolutely brilliant on overhanging routes.

However, there are some drawbacks. The strap closest to the toe is not very durable. It is already starting to come apart after a few weeks of use. Also, the surface of the rubber was not sanded off before leaving the factory, making the shoes very slick for the first couple of uses. However, my biggest complaint is the fit. These shoes, though they performed well, are not good for a narrow foot. Even though I went with a very tight fit, I have to pull the straps much farther than they were intended to go. . This causes the tongue to bunch up and become uncomfortable and annoying. There is almost an inch of strap sticking out from the side of my foot, just waiting to get caught on something. The toe box is also a bit too wide, and allows for too much lateral movement for my taste.

Overall, I like this shoe. It climbs very well, even though it is a bit uncomfortable. It's not perfect but I'll take it. I'll update later after a few months of use.

NOTE: Evolvs generally run a half size small. I went with a full size up from my Anasazi's, and they fit snug, but I could fit in a half size smaller, but it would be very painful.

4 5

Excellent shoe - size up!

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is an excellent shoe! I would not call it the best aggressive climbing shoe out there, nor would I say Evolve Trax is the best rubber on the Market; however, this is an excellently designed shoe that is my workhorse in the gym.

The rubber is thick, I have been wearing it 3+ days per week in the gym for the past 2 months and have not had any signs of needing to resole and I can trust these shoes on dime edges and the heel is solid for overhanging routes.

There is one caveat to this shoe, the sizing is not comparable to any other shoe you would buy. I have a 9.5 street shoe and size down 1-2 full sizes on all my climbing shoes; however, with this shoe, I purchased a 9.5 and I wish I had gone with a 10. The shoes will soften a bit, hence the reason I am still using them, but they do not stretch at all and instead of these forming to my foot, I feel like my foot has formed to the shoes.I also have mortons toe and this would not have been an issue with the 10's, but it took a few weeks before my feet got to the point they could tolerate the shoe.

Would I buy this shoe again, definitely! However, I would go with the 10.

STRENGHTS:
EDGING
HEEL HOOKING
VELCRO STRAPS

CONS:
FIT
SMEARING

5 5

Underrated Route Killers.

The new Primes (SC and Lace up) have found their way into my regular rotation of climbing shoes, performing solidly on footwork intensive boulder problems, as well as long, technical face climbing.

Quick Background on reviewer - 10 years climbing experience, 6 years professional coaching experience. Climbing in the 5.13 range.

Shoe Pros -

- crazy amount of rubber coverage, it's almost like a lightweight rubber sock pointed forward. Any angle you can place your foot on the rock has the capability to stick well.
- semi-symmetrical last provides a good step of power across the first two toes. Edging and smearing are solid, and heel and toe hooking are baller.
- Nice construction; feels like it will last a lot of abuse.

Could be better -

- longer break in time than shoes with less rubber. First few sessions have these feeling tight and stiff. Break in to be comfortable and much softer, but the first few sessions are foot squeezy.

- Enough rubber coverage that it can make the foot sweat some on long routes.

Responded on

Can you comment on sizing comparative to other shoes? Are they similar sizing to the Predators or closer the the Evo/Pontas which seem to run 1/2 - 1 size larger than the Predators for the same numerical size?

Also how are they wearing?

Responded on

Sizing - I went a 1/2 size up from the Pontas,which is also the exact same as the sizing I use on the Shamans (so a 9.5 Pontas and a 10 Prime both fit me about the exact same). About the same as a 41.5 Testarossa or Solution. (Street shoe size for me is 10.5/44 Euro).

After the first several of sessions breaking in, the upper+rubber def starting molding well to create a good space for the big toe knuckle.

Wear - still pretty new (only been using them for a few months), but construction seems solid. The rubber hasn't really worn down that much, but the shoe has softened up decently - (guess this also depends on personal preference for how soft you like your shoes).

Hope that helps.

Do these shoes work good for bouldering?

Posted on

Do these shoes work good for bouldering?