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- Item #EVL0013
- Q & A
cheap, entry-level, all-arounder
shoes don't make the climber, but it doens't hurt to give yourself an advantage. these shoes wont boost your climbing, but they shouldn't hold you back. the saw-tooth heel cup is kind of gimicky and i prefer a bigger contact patch with smooth rubber, but it makes it easier when you're first learning. the shoe is comfortable and breathes decently. it also smears and edges decently. it has a flat last, so it wont deliver the power of more aggressive shoes, but wont be as uncomfortable either. 4 star rating for new climbers, 3 star for advanced climbers.
I really want to like these shoes, I really do. For some reason however (and I can't quite put my finger on it) I don't adore this pair like I do my 5.10 Anasazis. I think that Evo was trying to respond to the awesomeness of the Anasazis when they designed this shoe, but something just came up short. While they do lots of things alright (bouldering, some technical, mainly sport) they don't particularly EXCEL at any one thing. Stiff forefoot and softer heel but the edging sensitivity and the rubber stickiness is nothing to write home about. I think I'll stick to my 5.10 Anasazis and Moccasyms...
We had these shoes at philmomt and they must have been the stickies thing ever! When you needed to get your foot up against the wall near your headaches things delivered. The had plenty of traction for crags and for pressing agaomsy the wall.
The Evo is a nice looking shoe and appears to have many of the features of other great shoes. I picked up a pair after my Anasazi toes busted through. For a while they seemed alright, but after a little sweat the insides became unbearably slick. The rubber too was far less sticky and flexible than I'd like. All around disappointing. Don't be fooled.
Great First Shoe
Not anything too special, but they get the job done well. They stay true to their size and the rubber is decent.
I'd say they're awesome for a first timer or someone on a tight budget. They're certainly not rental shoes, but they don't offer much on anything steep.
Zion free climbing with the Evo's
These shoes stink
Don't get me wrong, they're great for climbing. However, they sure smell..
The rubber is pretty sticky, and the edge is great. The heel is another gimmicky thing that's great--up to a point. It can't really preform on super technical bouldering routes. After owning these shoes for a few months, they literally smell like a small rodent crawled inside them and died. If you can stomach the smell, they're really a great bang for the buck!
Finally an aggresive Edger
I own La Sportiva Mythos in a 9.5m and they stretched too much and I have been on a hunt for a slightly aggressive climbing shoe for technical top rope and hard lead climbing. I also own Evolv Optimus slipper in a 10m and that was so tight that all I use it for is overhang bouldering. The Evolv Evo shoe in a 10m fits just right! Its really tight but comfortable enough for edging and precise footwork. They have conformed to my feat pretty well and I can't say enough how much I love how they fit my feet. Sometimes the heal is not as snug as my Optimus but no shoe is perfect for everything. These shoes are now the shoe I'm always climbing in.If your a beginner these shoes will allow you to pretty much all type of climbing as long as you get a good fit. For those intermediate looking for high performance, I believe performance can be found as long as your not mostly doing overhang bouldering. These shoes are great like I said for technical lead and top rope where edging and superb footwork is needed because they give me a perfect amount of precision but without the immense pain that my Evovl optimus give when I try to put a lot of my weight on them.
These shoes felt great from the get go. Love the velcro instead of laces. The soles are stickier than the bathroom floor at Chuck E. Cheese's. Holds well on all...holds. Comfy to wear; you don't have to take them off after every route to let your toes stop screaming like most shoes. Much love for these kicks.
An Aggressive Profile and True Shoe Size
Sizes pretty true to street shoe, and synthetic won't really stretch out. Fairly aggressive profile and edges make for good teeny-toes moves and allow you to stand up on/edge on small stuff you might not be able to in a more rounded shoe. The rubber is grippy and the teeth on the heel make for good heel-hooks. I've noticed ever so slight wiggling of my heel during use, but this can almost always be remedied by cranking down a bit on the velcro.
comfortable and a great deal
ok well at first i thought these shoes were too small but after a few months of use they dont stretch but they do mold to your feet. They were a bit uncomfortable but that soon changed. these shoes are frankly amazing at edging when their new the sole is very stiff and you cant feel much but after a few weeks the soften up a bit. as you may have suspected they arent amazing on overhangs but they do work. All in all their comfy and a great value .
Overall good shoe
I've had them for a few days only so they're still in the stretching process, even if it won't be much. The shoe sticks well, it's comfortable, and the sole is hard enough, making edging and toe hooking a breeze. Heel size is just a tad big for my foot, but I haven't had any problems heel hooking while working on bouldering problems.
I recommend getting this shoe same size as your regular/athletic shoes. Toes will feel pretty tight at first but they will stretch little enough for a snug and comfortable fit.
Stuck to a door frame!
I bought these shoes early season, but the rain kept me indoors for three weeks before I said "screw it". I bouldered up my metal door frame and mounted the "overhang" that is my roof. I was amazed at how comfortable these shoes were when smeared, toe down, against my door frame! I finally got them on a rock face a few weeks later and they performed even better. Stiff enough to toe a rough spot in the rock, amazing grip, ridiculously comfortable! I highly recommend this shoe to all levels of climbers.
Used these shoes for about 5 months now and I can promise you they will stretch 1/2 size. I love the heel hook on these guys and the stiff sole is great for edging. A little tough to smear in. Needless to say great shoe!
Comfy all day
I love these shoes for trad climbing and especially for longer routes. They are super comfy and fit great. I find they smear very well, even on slick granite, and with their narrow toe profile and little bit of rubber on the toe, jam like pros. Mine have lasted a long time and I think they get better as they soften up.
Good shoe, so-so durability
I've had these shoes less than a year and have already worn through the rubber. I climb occasionally throughout the year indoors and a little more outdoor in the summer. This is really the only draw back - but at 105 dollars, I would say its significant. Other than that, they're pretty awesome shoes. No stretching so easy to know if they'll fit in 3 months. I'd go down 1 size for comfort, 1.5 for performance (really tight though). Great on overhung and face climbing; okay in the cracks. FYI - getting your shoes resoled is about 30-40 bucks form Evolv, depending on the wear.
Great First Shoe
The Evolv Evo's were my first pair of Rock Climbing shoes an I still love them to this day. The aggressive rubber on the heel makes heel hooking super easy. I haven't had a single problem with these shoes to date. Remember when sizing yourself that these shoes don't strech. The way they feel in the store is the way they are always going to feel. If you have the extra cash for these shoes by all means go for them. The one thing that you should be aware of is that the shoes will smell. This is generally true with all synthetic shoes though but hey I'd rather have a functioning shoe that smells then a shoe that performs under par but smells like roses.
good all around shoe
These are a good all around shoe, especially for the price. They tend to hold moisture more than leather shoes so if you are one of those with slimy feet these probably are not your shoe. As others have said, size them up a bit and they are a good all day shoe. I even got a pair a full size larger and wore them with wool socks on an alpine route.
This is a great sho for both indoor and outdoor climbing. I have had them for almost a year and they are still nice. The toe is great for catching jibs and the heel is awesome for heel-hooking. Good solid, stiff shoe. Just don't try to do walk too far in them because they do tend to hurt the feet when you do. Oober comfortable while on the wall though.
The guy who recommended these to me is a competition pro and even owns his own climbing team. He said the only way you can get much better than these is a top-end La Sportiva shoe, but that also comes with a top-end La Sportiva price.
So i am looking for a climbing shoe that...
So i am looking for a climbing shoe that would be ideal for all around climbing, especially deep soloing. Would this shoe be a good contender. (I am specifically for a shoe that won't stretch too much when it gets wet)
Good choice then, because it is synthetic so it doesn't stretch much at all. I like this shoe for all around use...I size it a bit bigger for trad/crack climbing.