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  • Edelrid - Mega Jul Belay Kit - Slate
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  • Edelrid - Mega Jul Belay Kit - Slate

Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit

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    • Slate, One Size
      sale $37.46
    4.556

    6 Reviews

    Details

    The best duo since the creation of PB&J.

    Edelrid designed the Mega Jul belay device to work perfectly with the HMS Strike FG locking carabiner, and the Mega Jul Belay Kit includes both so you're ready to belay your partner whether you're climbing single-pitch sport or multipitch trad. Edelrid made the Mega Jul belay device out of stainless steel to virtually eliminate abrasion and wear for excellent longevity so you can belay with these beauts for a long time.

    Use the versatile Mega Jul belay device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. The large steel loop on top attaches to anchors so the device can lock up without your brake hand—drink some water, enjoy the sights, or manage your rope while your second (or third) top-ropes to you. Edelrid also added a small eyelet so you can lower your top-rope climbers directly from the anchors.

    The HMS Strike FG locking carabiner features an H-profile construction to keep it super strong despite its light weight. The spring bar holds the Mega Jul in place to prevent cross loading, and the keylock nose prevents the rope from snagging when you take your climber off belay. Its screwgate lock prevents the gate from opening when you're in mid-belay.

    • Stainless steel Mega Jul belay device
    • Assisted braking thumb loop
    • Self-locking compatibility for anchor belays
    • Small eyelet
    • HMS Strike FG locking carabiner
    • H-profile construction
    • Screwgate lock
    • Keylock nose
    • Spring bar
    • Item #ELR000L

    Tech Specs

    Material
    [belay device] steel, [biner] aluminum
    Auto Locking
    no
    Rope Diameter
    7.8 - 10.5 mm
    Strength
    [major axis] 30 kN, [minor axis] 12 kN, [open gate] 10 kN
    Claimed Weight
    [belay device] 5.5 oz, [biner] 2.5 oz
    Recommended Use
    sport, big wall, trad, multipitch

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Probably best lead belay device made

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    If I use any other belay device, its purely just for kicks. This is what I use 99.99% of the time, outdoors and in. Feeding rope 10mm or less to a lead climber is the easiest thing in the world with this device. At first it feels a little unnatural having your thumb in the loop but after a few weeks of using it, it becomes second nature and feels very natural. I weigh 240 lbs and I can sit on it without the rope slipping through after it has locked down. I can't recommend this device enough.

    Pretty cool device

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I've only used this top roping and sport climbing so I can't say anything about its ability to belay followers, but it's very smooth when feeding out ropes under 10 mm. Anything above 10 and there's a noticeable amount of friction and it just takes a little more effort to move the rope through. The locking feature works great and rappelling in the 'reversed' orientation is similar to any tube-style belay device. Overall, the build appears to be very solid and seems like it will last a long time and withstand a lot of punishment.
    As far as the carabiner goes, its definitely not the lightest available, but the gate and screw lock are both smooth and the anti-cross loading bar is nice & tight and works like its supposed to.

    Smooth except rappels

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Mega Jul is very smooth when lead belaying, when lowering down, when belaying your follower(s) from an anchor. Especially when belaying your follower(s).

    I like it is made of steel, thus I expect it won't be grooved in less then 2 years which is the case with aluminium ATCs.

    The only drawback is rappeling. If rappeling in "inverted" mode (yellow plastic facing to your chest) it is not possible to ascend the rope(s). When rappeling in "normal" autoblocking mode it is far from smooth - basically it is an annoying (and sometimes even dangerous) sequence of short jumps.

    Bottom line. Everything but rappeling is the top notch. Rappeling with this device is a pain.

    P.S. BTW, the binner in this package is really nice. Probably the least annoying and the most adequate anti-crossloading belay binner design.

    Update. Rappels are smooth, and safe, and fast with this device. Learning curve is steep and not straightforward. Although it worth it. Tried to tweak the review to change *** to *****, but did not succeeded.

    Corrected bottom line. Top notch. My device of choice for long routes. Five stars.

    My New Belay Device

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Always used a BD Guide, was what everyone else had. I then had a few friends pick this up, saw that it "locks" or "catches" and was sold. Always liked the idea of a Gri Gri but, its not really functional for multi pitch climbs, you need to bring something to rappel with. This is the answer.



    At 200 lbs when I take a whipper my girlfriend gets flung, if she has a small moment of inattentiveness to her belay stance (we all do at some point) there is a small chance the rope could slip, this device considerably lowers that chance. I know that in a perfect world, and with a perfect belayer who is staring at the climber in the ready stance wouldnt need help or an auto catch but, I realize it happens and this gives me a better peace of mind.



    Like any new belay device it takes a few routes to get used to feeding rope out to the climber. I think it works best when you put your thumb in the green loop. When the rope gets wet, it gets much harder and the rope will sometimes catch or lock up in there when you dont want it to.



    When rappelling, turn the entire belay device around so the ropes dont lock up on you. Little trick I learned from a friend and by watching Edelrid's video.



    Huge fan, would recommend to anyone.

    My New Belay Device

    Great experience with the Mega Jul

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I actually do not have the steel biner sold as part of this set. However, I have spent over a year using the Jul and really like it. I still use a GriGri when sport climbing or cragging. With today's smaller diameter ropes (using mostly 9.5 or less these days) and with doubles this thing can't be beat. Its light, strong, and locks consistently with these ropes. It does take some getting used to, but once accustomed to the device its amazing. I will say that it is necessary (and recommended by Edelrid) to use the device "backwards" as a normal tuber when rappelling. It is a PIA to use it in locked mode, even with the biner as a lever. That said, I back it up in the same way I would with an ATC or the like when rappelling with an autoblock.



    I will also say that it takes a little more effort than an ATC or similar for belaying the second in guide mode, but it has not caused me any issues.

    EDITED

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    EDIT: This Mega Jul Kit product page has been changed to reflect the kit that is being sold

    Edelrid Mega Jul Review Test

    This is a short review and demonstration of the features of Edelrid�s new belay device - the Mega Jul. In this video we demonstrate how to belay, lower and rappel with it. It is recommended to also watch Edelrid�s official tutorial video (http://vimeo.com/53332541) as well as to consult the manual before operating this belay device.

    This video was shot on a Saturday at the Highlander Wall in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.