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  • Edelrid - Jul² Belay Device - Oasis

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  • Edelrid - Jul² Belay Device - Oasis

Edelrid Jul² Belay Device


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    • Oasis, One Size

    2 Reviews


    Edelrid's Jewel.

    Edelrid's Jul² Belay Device is a single-rope device designed for any climber ranging from beginners in a gym to advanced sport craggers projecting, flailing, and occasionally redpointing. This device has a massive rope range for skinny 8.9mm redpoint ropes and fatty 11.0mm projecting ropes. Edelrid designed this device to assist your dynamic catches by slightly braking the rope to a slow stop. This helps beginning belayers learn how to give an ideal catch, and seasoned climbers can always appreciate a little more assistance. 

    • Single-rope belay device
    • Slight braking performance
    • Thumb loop assist
    • 8.9-11mm rope range
    • Item #ELR000Q

    Tech Specs

    stainless steel
    Rope Diameter
    8.9 - 11.0 mm
    Claimed Weight
    3.06 oz
    Recommended Use

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

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    Improvement for mid to fat ropes

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've used the jul 2 as my primary device while cragging and gym climbing since July, around 200 pitches outdoors. Device has been paired with the Edelrid Strike carabiner, it works best with this carabiner.

    For the fat to mid size ropes most people tend to crag/gym climb with of 9.6-10.3 it works great. Your average gym climber who doesn't want to drop the coin on a grigri, but would like some brake assistance will really like this device. Advantages over mega jul:

    * Pays out slack to a leader MUCH smoother. While sport climbing when a leader needs to go for a high clip fast I can pay out two arm lengths of slack very fast, never worry about shorting them again (happened with mega jul even after months of use).

    * Easier to use in normal "tube device" style. The mega jul locked too easily, I found myself lead belaying with my thumb pulling up on the wire almost constantly. It's much easier to keep a firm hand on the brake strand and pay out just like using an ATC.

    * Stainless runs down around the thumb cable. This makes it nicer for lowering your climber and paying out slack quickly. On the mega jul you could have the rope drag on the crease of your thumb, not chance of that with this.

    * Smoother lowering, it's easier to hit the leverage "sweet spot" than with a mega jul.

    * Slight bit of slip before lock up. Less than with a regular tube device, not ass aggressive as a grigri. For trad I think this is an advantage to possibly reduce peak force on your placement. For sport where that doesn't matter I still prefer the hard lockup of a grigri, it's easier to time my jump for a soft catch.

    No product is without flaws. The downside to the nice feed of the jul 2 is that it provides less assistance on thinner ropes. There is a chart that comes with the device for recommended climber weight to rope diameter. In general I would not use this device for skinny single