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Rack up with the DMM Wallnut Set on your next trad climbing trip, and they'll amaze you with their easy selection and solid placement. Their color-coded anodized heads help you pick the right size the first time, so you can quickly slot the nut in a bomber constriction and move on before the pump clock starts ticking. Wallnuts also have a curved taper with a vertical concave slot to help them seat solidly in strangely shaped cracks.
Bottom Line: The DMM Wallnut Set is the bread and butter of your trad rack.
Easy to place, stays put. Everyone has their favorite set, and these are mine. The groove makes a tangible, positive difference occasionally, and is inconsequential at other times. Wallnuts don't make every other set obsolete, but the groove is a nice touch. I climb primarily on southeastern sandstone and when positioned carefully the groove seems to make it stick on the knobbly bits in cracks and move around less while the rope slides through. I have the habit of giving it two or three good tugs to set the piece and I haven't had any special trouble removing them, nor has my climbing partner. Even so, buy a nut tool. You'll need it now and again for any brand.
Purchased the 1-11 set and have been very happy with these so far. The recess in the nuts adds some surface area in interesting placements and hold very well. Like said before, they sometimes seem harder to remove than other brands, but that could just be setting technique. I would definitely recommend
These can be very difficult to remove as they can get hung up on little protrusions in crystalline rock. I've found HB offsets and BD Stoppers with their smoother edges to be slightly easier to remove. These have their place, but more than not I find myself reaching for HBs or BDs.
Hey , what racking biner would You recommend for those puppies ? I was thinking about Black Diamond OvalWire Carabiner but it has notched wire gate and its heavier than any wire gate biner for egz CAMP USA Orbit Wire which is cheaper. I wanted to take two biners to go with DMM Wallnuts - bigger sizes on one and smaller sizes on the other. Also I wanted to buy a racking biner for tricams. What do You think? Is it better to buy lighter but a bit smaller biners for racking stoppers? Or maybe with keylock? - som say that notched gate prevents of losing stoppers ;)
I'm doing something similar to how you would do it. I've got a set of 1-11 Wallnuts racked on 3 wiregate carabiners (for small, medium and large nuts). I'm not too fussed by the carabiners themselves, and have BD Neutrinos and DMM Phantoms (v light). I like the conventional shape of these carabiners for racking, and have never considered an oval.
Basically an average wiregate is enough, so just get a cheap one from a decent brand that isn't excessively heavy.
A non-clean nose is probably quite handy for not losing nuts, but can be quite annoying when you want to get a nut off the racking biner. I don't worry too much about losing nuts off my biner to choose between clean/non-clean noses. However, I've lost a biner of nuts, because the biner itself didn't clip on cleanly to a friend's harness (carrying lots of gear)... subtle difference there.
Although I have BD stoppers, I really like my setup of 1 Dynotron for larger nuts and 1 Nitron for smaller nuts. Both biners are large, keylock, and have bright and distinctive colors. I don't like the way ovals sit on my rack, and find that as long as you have fewer than 7 nuts on a biner, they sit nicely on D's. You do have to be somewhat careful to keep them from falling off while placing them, but this happens even with notched gates, and i think the convenience of smooth operation is worth this extra diligence.
I rack Tricams all on a single orbit keylock. It is more important to have your tricam biner be keylock than your Wallnut biners, because the only thing that the webbing wants to do is get caught in the notch. Tricams are funky enough as it is.
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Love the set and love the color, would be better if they offered the set 1-11 verse the 1-10 but I guess if you need an eleven you might as well use a cam in most situations or just by the 11 separate.
These nuts slide right into cracks nicely and set right the first time. The contours allow for good contact all around. I've cleaned BDs and they seem to come out almost too easily. Maybe it was just the setter.
Got a question: Is it better to take 1 - 6 set and for egz double it and for bigger cracks - the cams? Or to take full set of 1 - 11 ? Are those bigger ones are useful and easy to handle?
Depends on where you are climbing, the types of routes/difficulty, personal preference and skill. The larger sizes are certainly useful. You may find that a whole rack of these is useful and then double up on the sizes that are used the most in your climbing. And leave behind sizes that never get used.
"Joint collaboration with Wild Country to standardise colour recognition (DMM make the light weight, coloured Rocks for Wild Country)." As cited from http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=11
So, that said,
Here are the size charts for the Wild Country Rocks: http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Products/PassivePro/Rocks/
These nuts are NOT half the price of black diamond. You are getting half of a rack. So, buy the full rack, and the price difference is negligible. However, the shape of these nuts is excellent, and I find that they place very securely in constrictions that might be sketchy with another brand of nut. I use them constantly.
I've used DMM's wallnuts for some time already and finally decide to buy some on my own. These are of great help in Tatra mountains :) Please note, that the big set offered here is not the same as big set offered by DMM. DMM big set is 1-11 and backcountry's is only 1-10.
You have two choices. You could get 1-6 or all of them. That is why the price range is from 54 - 96 dollars.54 ish for 1-6(sz) of themor96 ish for 1-10(sz)ALL of them!Great deal.(as for the BD comment. Black diamond sells there set for 104 (1-13).
This is a great set of nuts. They are super easy to place because of the curved shape. I prefer these over the Black Diamond Nuts I have. These are a must have on any rack.
Nuts are bread and butter for trad climbing. I've got a set myself and am very happy with them.
However, when I fell on my No.3 nut, it vanished. Whether the wire snapped and spun off into the sea or was abducted by aliens, I'll never know.
To be honest, I'm of the opinion that most brands of nuts perform equally well. I never have any problems with my DMM ones, and I don't have problems when I use my mate's BD ones. He also got a set of WC ones for anchoring and they seem to perform well too.
Regarding removal, I've had to hack away with all the diff manufacturers nuts. That's just life. Not left a DMM nut behind yet, although my friend recently had to admit defeat when trying to retrieve one of his BD ones.
If it doesn't hold well on the first try, after I turn it around it seems to stick every time. Some of the reviews say they're more likely to get stuck. I'd agree that sometimes they stick a bit too well, but I'm more comfortable with the fact that I've only lost one versus the alternative of one that doesn't stick well enough. Invest in a good nut tool and it's rarely an issue and if it is, ohh well, the argument that your life is worth more than 8 dollars justifies if you have to leave one behind every now and then.
I bought a full set of these recently and have had ample time to use them. I had a set of BD stoppers and after using these don't find myself taking the BD set anymore. The groove down the center allows for more placements and more surface area on placements. They do seem to wedge themselves in securely with little force, haven't had an issue removing them yet, but haven't fallen on one either. All in all this would be my recommendation for stopper set. If you feel like you need more pieces I suggest you get the DMM Offsets to fill out your rack.
Nothing too special to note, but was trying to decide between these and the standard BD stoppers. Happy I went with the DMM Wallnuts. I think their shape allows for better (easier) placements. Only downside is fewer total stoppers, but still plenty in my opinion assuming you have a full rack of cams.
These nuts are solid, yet still lightweight, especially in the larger sizes. These nuts run bigger than BD Stoppers for the number (BD #12 is about the same size as DMM #8). They place securely very quickly and require less fiddling than BD Stoppers. The shape of the Wallnuts lets you place them right the first time and you don't have to set them as hard for them to stay put, thus they don't necessarily have to be harder to clean than the Stoppers.
The Wallnuts are great. I have cleaned and set both these and BDs. The only downside is that they set so well that they are sometimes harder to clean than BDs. but, when i'm 15 ft above pro, ease of removal is the last thing on my mind.
These are great versatile nuts. They have been easy to place and clean so far. I really like the colored heads which makes finding the one you are looking for much quicker and easier. I have not used too many other brands so I can't say if these place better, but you can often find a crystal or feature for the groove in the middle of these nuts that adds some extra confidence.
Love the set and I mixed and matched with some older ones I have to fill in my rack, unfortunately before I could use it I tore a ligament in my big toe... No climbing for a few months, boooooo. Love the product though.
Soo many placement options because of shape, they clean easily, and are very light! I've used them on 6 routes so far, and wouldn't leave the ground without them!
I'm sad to say i got these nuts before they came in anodized colors. I feel it would help greatly. I also have a set of colored ABC Huevos Nuts and love them. These have the crazy shape that allow for more secure placements in varied rock surfaces where traditional nuts might have less surface area contact. The largest size cuts weight by hollowing out the inner portion on the small side resulting in even more secure placements. I've fallen on these down to the size 5 and no problems. They do deform a bit when bashing them out but all the nuts I have do. Superior design to the standard wired nuts on the market and now they're colored for easier size identification!
I like having a great variety in my stoppers so I don't get stuck in a situation where only one type of stopper works and I don't have it. The scalloped back on these makes them even more versatile than some standard designs. The hollow design on the bigger ones also makes them a bit easier to clean since you can get a nut tool in there most times.
I love placing a good nut in funky cracks. These are much more solid than the BD nuts it many situations, and apparently it is hard to place a bad one even when I would be terrified to take a fall on one, my second said it was bomber, and actually had to bust out the tool.
Nice and light, Haven't had the chance to actually place any of these bad boys, but the shape of them makes them look like they are going to be very nice to place and remove. Solid construction all the way around. Nice.
Easy to place, stays put. Everyone has their favorite set, and these are mine. The groove makes a tangible, positive difference occasionally, and is inconsequential more...
Purchased the 1-11 set and have been very happy with these so far. The recess in the nuts adds some surface area in interesting placements and hold very more...
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