The DMM Wallnut Set is the bread and butter of your trad rack.
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DMM Informational Video
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
I just bought these (7-11) as the first part of my trad rack. I spent a week in Joshua Tree using them to fill out my partner's rack. I was climbing "Orphan"(5.9, F.A. 1954) and hitting a harder section when I saw a charming constriction at face level. I threw in the #11 and it looked bomber. Then I flipped it 180 degrees and I could tell that the gods themselves has blessed this placement. I continued my struggle upwards until I took a fall about 8 feet above the nut. My partner of course sunk his ass to the ground, offering me literally the least dynamic catch of all time. As I regained composure, I complained that my balls had been squashed by the harness, but from that moment on, I knew that my nuts were indestructible.
In summary, I think a dirtbag I met said it the best. "Man, I really hate brand loyalty... BUT DMM NUTS ARE THE BEST ****ING NUTS."
Now I look at BD nuts like, "Bro, do you even lift?"
When will the 1-11 set be available for...
When will the 1-11 set be available for purchase?
We do currently have one set for purchase, and we have a whole bunch more coming into stock- hopefully by early-mid November!
I have set of these, and a set of BD nuts. Holding them side by side they are pretty much identical in size with the difference being the BD nuts are not as tall as the DMM. The BD's are stubbier. I prefer the DMM in the larger sizes (~7-10) because there is more of a sideways taper making a sideways placement much better. Keep in mind that placing small nuts sideways is usually not recommended but placing large nuts sideways is a good bomber trick I've learned recently. Also, in the larger sizes they seem to be a tad lighter as well.
For the smaller sizes I reach for the BD's out of habit and familiarity. The plus for the DMM's are the grooves them which makes placing them on/around little crystals possible, and a little more secure. More noticeable in places like Jtree, and less noticeable in smooth granite like in the Sierra. Hard to clean? in theory yes... but in practice I've never placed one that didn't come out. Usually if a nut is stuck it would be stuck regardless of having little notches in them.
i like these things a ton. can't say they're really all that different from other nuts i've used. without using them side-by-side it's hard to say which ones work "better." if i don't fall and get hurt, i'd consider these things to be doing their job. so far the'yre a-OK!
Easy to place, stays put. Everyone has their favorite set, and these are mine. The groove makes a tangible, positive difference occasionally, and is inconsequential at other times. Wallnuts don't make every other set obsolete, but the groove is a nice touch. I climb primarily on southeastern sandstone and when positioned carefully the groove seems to make it stick on the knobbly bits in cracks and move around less while the rope slides through. I have the habit of giving it two or three good tugs to set the piece and I haven't had any special trouble removing them, nor has my climbing partner. Even so, buy a nut tool. You'll need it now and again for any brand.
I bought a full set of these recently and have had ample time to use them. I had a set of BD stoppers and after using these don't find myself taking the BD set anymore. The groove down the center allows for more placements and more surface area on placements. They do seem to wedge themselves in securely with little force, haven't had an issue removing them yet, but haven't fallen on one either. All in all this would be my recommendation for stopper set. If you feel like you need more pieces I suggest you get the DMM Offsets to fill out your rack.
Better Than BD
Nothing too special to note, but was trying to decide between these and the standard BD stoppers. Happy I went with the DMM Wallnuts. I think their shape allows for better (easier) placements. Only downside is fewer total stoppers, but still plenty in my opinion assuming you have a full rack of cams.
If it doesn't hold well on the first try, after I turn it around it seems to stick every time. Some of the reviews say they're more likely to get stuck. I'd agree that sometimes they stick a bit too well, but I'm more comfortable with the fact that I've only lost one versus the alternative of one that doesn't stick well enough. Invest in a good nut tool and it's rarely an issue and if it is, ohh well, the argument that your life is worth more than 8 dollars justifies if you have to leave one behind every now and then.
Bought my Wallnuts 1-11 set about a month ago, so far I've been very happy with them. The curvature is nice in features that accept them.
Good stuff... but perform similarly to other manufacturers
Nuts are bread and butter for trad climbing. I've got a set myself and am very happy with them.
However, when I fell on my No.3 nut, it vanished. Whether the wire snapped and spun off into the sea or was abducted by aliens, I'll never know.
To be honest, I'm of the opinion that most brands of nuts perform equally well. I never have any problems with my DMM ones, and I don't have problems when I use my mate's BD ones. He also got a set of WC ones for anchoring and they seem to perform well too.
Regarding removal, I've had to hack away with all the diff manufacturers nuts. That's just life. Not left a DMM nut behind yet, although my friend recently had to admit defeat when trying to retrieve one of his BD ones.
Many facets and faetures
I like having a great variety in my stoppers so I don't get stuck in a situation where only one type of stopper works and I don't have it. The scalloped back on these makes them even more versatile than some standard designs. The hollow design on the bigger ones also makes them a bit easier to clean since you can get a nut tool in there most times.
Hey , what racking biner would You recommend...
Hey , what racking biner would You recommend for those puppies ? I was thinking about Black Diamond OvalWire Carabiner but it has notched wire gate and its heavier than any wire gate biner for egz CAMP USA Orbit Wire which is cheaper. I wanted to take two biners to go with DMM Wallnuts - bigger sizes on one and smaller sizes on the other. Also I wanted to buy a racking biner for tricams. What do You think? Is it better to buy lighter but a bit smaller biners for racking stoppers? Or maybe with keylock? - som say that notched gate prevents of losing stoppers ;)
Although I have BD stoppers, I really like my setup of 1 Dynotron for larger nuts and 1 Nitron for smaller nuts. Both biners are large, keylock, and have bright and distinctive colors. I don't like the way ovals sit on my rack, and find that as long as you have fewer than 7 nuts on a biner, they sit nicely on D's. You do have to be somewhat careful to keep them from falling off while placing them, but this happens even with notched gates, and i think the convenience of smooth operation is worth this extra diligence.
I rack Tricams all on a single orbit keylock. It is more important to have your tricam biner be keylock than your Wallnut biners, because the only thing that the webbing wants to do is get caught in the notch. Tricams are funky enough as it is.
I'm doing something similar to how you would do it. I've got a set of 1-11 Wallnuts racked on 3 wiregate carabiners (for small, medium and large nuts). I'm not too fussed by the carabiners themselves, and have BD Neutrinos and DMM Phantoms (v light). I like the conventional shape of these carabiners for racking, and have never considered an oval.
Basically an average wiregate is enough, so just get a cheap one from a decent brand that isn't excessively heavy.
A non-clean nose is probably quite handy for not losing nuts, but can be quite annoying when you want to get a nut off the racking biner. I don't worry too much about losing nuts off my biner to choose between clean/non-clean noses. However, I've lost a biner of nuts, because the biner itself didn't clip on cleanly to a friend's harness (carrying lots of gear)... subtle difference there.
I rack evens on one DMM Shadow and odds on another DMM Shadow. This way if I accidentally drop one set I still have a range of nuts instead of large or small.
Got a question: Is it better to take 1 -...
Got a question: Is it better to take 1 - 6 set and for egz double it and for bigger cracks - the cams? Or to take full set of 1 - 11 ? Are those bigger ones are useful and easy to handle?
Depends on where you are climbing, the types of routes/difficulty, personal preference and skill.
The larger sizes are certainly useful.
You may find that a whole rack of these is useful and then double up on the sizes that are used the most in your climbing. And leave behind sizes that never get used.
Purchased the 1-11 set and have been very happy with these so far. The recess in the nuts adds some surface area in interesting placements and hold very well. Like said before, they sometimes seem harder to remove than other brands, but that could just be setting technique.
I would definitely recommend
The Wallnuts are great. I have cleaned and set both these and BDs. The only downside is that they set so well that they are sometimes harder to clean than BDs. but, when i'm 15 ft above pro, ease of removal is the last thing on my mind.
Is there a size chart for these, thinking...
Is there a size chart for these, thinking of getting a set but need to know sizes. thanks!
"Joint collaboration with Wild Country to standardise colour recognition (DMM make the light weight, coloured Rocks for Wild Country)." As cited from http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=11
So, that said,
Here are the size charts for the Wild Country Rocks: http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Products/PassivePro/Rocks/
Love the set and I mixed and matched with some older ones I have to fill in my rack, unfortunately before I could use it I tore a ligament in my big toe... No climbing for a few months, boooooo. Love the product though.
Get your hands on these nuts
Love the set and love the color, would be better if they offered the set 1-11 verse the 1-10 but I guess if you need an eleven you might as well use a cam in most situations or just by the 11 separate.
These nuts slide right into cracks nicely and set right the first time. The contours allow for good contact all around. I've cleaned BDs and they seem to come out almost too easily. Maybe it was just the setter.