Description

Reach for the top.

Widely respected in the world of trad climbing, the designers at DMM topped themselves once again when they created the Alpha Wire Carabiner. At just 34 grams and with a minor-axis strength of 24 kN, the Alpha Wire is both ultralight and strong. In typical over-engineering fashion, the folks at DMM ensured that this biner has an open-gate strength rating of 9kN but also preserved a generous 27 millimeters of gate clearance for easy clipping, cleaning, and racking.

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DMM Alpha Wire Carabiner

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

Key chain

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I wanted a sweet carabiner to hold my keys

Also this will hold me when I have to undo my paracord bracelet and rappel down to safety and possibly save the world

Five stars!

Key chain
Responded on

I really hope you're joking about rapping on para cord..

5 5

Very nice full size carabiner

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

After a 30 year break in climbing I've recently gotten back into it. While most of my gear was still perfectly safe, I have been modernizing it as I go along. My most recent update was in carabiners. After looking at a lot of carabiners I was getting frustrated trying to find a carabiner that felt nice in my hand. Then one day I came across the DMM Alpha Trad biners and I finally found something that felt right so I pulled the trigger on them.

I must say these carabiners are the bomb. While they are expensive, their quality is what I've grown to expect from DMM. They are full size, light weight and very smooth gates. If I need to supplement my rack with more biners, I'll be picking up more of these.

5 5

Great biners

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I'vebeen able tested out my first sett of DMM alphas several times now and couldn't be happier with them. The gates are very smooth compared to the BD's that i've used in the past.

4 5

Nice clean nose biner

This is one of the best clean nose biners you can get. DMM quality is top notch for carabiners, and this is no exception. In my opinion it beats any other carabiner out there for providing a clean wire gate with the exception of the DMM Shield. This is nicer than the BD Hoodwire or the Helium, but the Shield benefits from a narrower nose (thanks to the rotated wire) and a better designed kink in the spine, as well as superior ergonomics.

One reason I keep these around instead of going all Shields is that the Alpha Trad is available in color packs for trad tacks while the Shield is not. I take a star off on this product only because DMM themselves have produced a mostly-better product in the Shield, but this still is head and shoulders above the options from other manufacturers (except, perhaps, the Ange, which has truly great gate design but poor ergonomics compared to the Alpha Trad).

Nice clean nose biner
3 5

nose width

FYI the nose width is 11.9mm, and nose depth (looking side on) is 10.8mm. That's wider than Shield @ 10.7/10.3mm. That, and kinked spine... Still pondering those for rope end only.

4 5

good but hard to justify

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I am A HUGE DMM fanboy, and will normally pay just about anything for their stuff. However, these are perhaps a little too pricy. Yes they clip nicely, yes the Clean wire is nice, yes the Asymmetric kinked spine is delicious. However, to put my whole rack on these even at wholesale is murder. Frankly the benefits of Clean Wire for a gear racking biner is negligible. even when slamming cams in on roofs and wandering pictches my second has few issues with notched biners. Mostly because you can just take the cam out first then unclip the pro. I as a leader dont feel its that hard to get a krab of my harness. Applications that it would be useful for is trad draws as thin Dynema can be a pain when doubled. I would if I could buy like 60 of these in colors...but I wouldn't feel good about it.

5 5

Worth it

I've been adding these to my rack and I have to say that I love them. The build quality is truly incredible, they’re light and oh so easy to handle. The only issue with these is their cost, which may explain why so few retailers carry them. If you’re willing to shell out for them, I’ve found these to be superior to the Petzl Ange L, which has essentially the same cost. Their specs are similar, but the DMM is easier to handle and the build quality is second to none.