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- Familiarity: I've used it several times
I'vebeen able tested out my first sett of DMM alphas several times now and couldn't be happier with them. The gates are very smooth compared to the BD's that i've used in the past.
Nice clean nose biner
This is one of the best clean nose biners you can get. DMM quality is top notch for carabiners, and this is no exception. In my opinion it beats any other carabiner out there for providing a clean wire gate with the exception of the DMM Shield. This is nicer than the BD Hoodwire or the Helium, but the Shield benefits from a narrower nose (thanks to the rotated wire) and a better designed kink in the spine, as well as superior ergonomics.
One reason I keep these around instead of going all Shields is that the Alpha Trad is available in color packs for trad tacks while the Shield is not. I take a star off on this product only because DMM themselves have produced a mostly-better product in the Shield, but this still is head and shoulders above the options from other manufacturers (except, perhaps, the Ange, which has truly great gate design but poor ergonomics compared to the Alpha Trad).
FYI the nose width is 11.9mm, and nose depth (looking side on) is 10.8mm. That's wider than Shield @ 10.7/10.3mm. That, and kinked spine... Still pondering those for rope end only.
good but hard to justify
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I am A HUGE DMM fanboy, and will normally pay just about anything for their stuff. However, these are perhaps a little too pricy. Yes they clip nicely, yes the Clean wire is nice, yes the Asymmetric kinked spine is delicious. However, to put my whole rack on these even at wholesale is murder. Frankly the benefits of Clean Wire for a gear racking biner is negligible. even when slamming cams in on roofs and wandering pictches my second has few issues with notched biners. Mostly because you can just take the cam out first then unclip the pro. I as a leader dont feel its that hard to get a krab of my harness. Applications that it would be useful for is trad draws as thin Dynema can be a pain when doubled. I would if I could buy like 60 of these in colors...but I wouldn't feel good about it.
I've been adding these to my rack and I have to say that I love them. The build quality is truly incredible, theyre light and oh so easy to handle. The only issue with these is their cost, which may explain why so few retailers carry them. If youre willing to shell out for them, Ive found these to be superior to the Petzl Ange L, which has essentially the same cost. Their specs are similar, but the DMM is easier to handle and the build quality is second to none.