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The CAMP USA Tricam's unique design works actively as a cam or passively as a stopper to handle a wide variety of placements that other forms of protection can't cover. The ultra-narrow shape and complete lack of a step lets you jigger this thing into funky pockets where nothing else would even stand a chance.
Two placement modes: can be used actively or passively
Work especially well in horizontal cracks where a stem gets in the way
Ultra-narrow design means they work excellent in pockets and other small openings
Bottom Line: It’s a cam, it’s a nut, it's the answer.
Christmas present for my 17 yo son. Used them for first time on his first lead climb. A pretty easy pitch with alot of horizontal cracks. He loved them and wished he would have had more because they were so easy to place and gave some good confidence. I followed and they are a little difficult to clean but well worth it.
You can probably find a place on every lead where the .5 fits and nothing else is secure. Bring it. If you want to cut down on the mid-sized pieces, the 1-2 sizes can pretty much fit wherever a similar sized cam could for a fraction of the weight and triple the fiddling. Might be worth it if you know that your climbing will have some decent stances for placements. Oh, and you never will need a flexible stem cam for pockets/horizontals again, these do that better.
Do people use the new .125 and .25 for aid? Because the strength rating on those is astonishingly low. I was intrigued at the thought of having sizes less than pink for trad climbing, but it sounds like they might not really be up to the challenge. Has anybody actually taken a whipper and had one of these hold? Any epics about a failure?
In my opinion they are stronger than any straight-laced design, they use the strength and stability of the triangle to keep you safe on your climb. My first trad fall was on a .25 tri-cam in a dubious placement. Mostly I use the .50 but this time I was testing out something smaller and as fate would have it thats when I had my first big slip. All I can say is surprisingly solid protection. I am still not sure if I will climb anything over 100 ft without my pink, red and blue ones, especially since the pink ones fit everywhere I need them to.. but they are definitely worth a try Im still here.
I took a 20' fall on a Black Tricam (.25) on Dark Shadows in Red Rock. I didn't have alot of faith in the placement but it was all I could get. This thought was in my mind during the fall....but it held solid! Pulled my belayer up about 8' and left us looking eye to eye on the wall! I'm a fan of the tricam.
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These are the best. Learn to place them - they fit where nothing else will, they're light (yeah, the big sizes are great too!), and as fusionboy points out - pink is the best. Especially when you're 50 ft. above your last piece on easy slab and the only hole in the rock is a little pocket thing (Whitehorse anyone?).
Way, way, way better than hexes for large pieces in the mountains, unique placements that are irreplaceable in the small sizes. Get some.
I know exactly what you are talking about. I was leading the third or fourth pitch of "Sea of Holes" on White Horse and the only thing that you could place on the entire pitch was tri-cams. They are a god-send and I love 'em (especially the little pink one).
Okay, I love my pink tri-cam, but the answer depends on why you're getting them. If you want them as a lighter-weight option in the mountains (to save yourself from carrying big cams), get the big ones.
Personally, I find I use pink, red, brown and the smaller blue the most (.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0). I don't have the littler guys yet, but I've always wanted smaller-than-pink tricams.
Funny how Tricams seem to divide the world, east coast/west coast, traditional (or noob) from sprad, etc. Some folks swear they "never leave the ground" without their pinkie. Then again, some folks carry three belay devices with them at all times. Heck, there's at least one person out there with a pink Tricam tattoo. I've heard people talk about carrying doubles, even triples of the pink.
I do like Tricams. Sometimes they fit in places that cams and won't. Sometimes they allow me to carry fewer cams. On multi-pitch routes I might build the belay mostly with Tricams and let my partner have the similarly sized cams for the next pitch. And Tricams take the place of big nuts or cowbells. Oh, I mean hexes.
Yes, Tricams can fix. I lost one on the Original Route on Whitesides. I was way run out (on admittedly moderate ground) and getting tired. I found a solution pocket that would take a pink. I jammed it in, set it, and wrote it off. I knew my partner (mostly a boulderer) would never get it out, but having the protection was worth it.
I carry from 0.25 to 3.0, and in my regular circuit at my home crag, I will place them all multiple times in the course of a day.
Love these. Work great in a multitude of placements. Tri-cam placements give me a special pleasure. Great for adding a little something to your warm-up, keeping the multi-pitch rack light, or for building belays. Have taken a few falls on these and tough they can be hard to clean, they hold great.
Everybody seems to get all worked up about tri-cams being hard to remove, but I have seen multiple people not know the proper removal technique. When set to cam, all you have to do to remove them is give them a good whack with the nut tool near the top of the rails where the sling connects to the piece. This nearly always dislodges your tri-cam.
They are excellent for setting up a top-rope anchor as long as you have a friend with you to break it down when you're done. You won't want to try to get them out if you've placed them in the camming position. Should be fine if you use them like a regular nut.
If you have to ask you should probably be climbing with somebody who already knows.
That said, tri-cams are safe to set set anchors with in the right placements, but I prefer to use other pieces for anchors because tri-cams can get really set in when weighted.
I live near a sandstone bluff and these are the thing for the tapering cracks and strange pockets that occur in sandstone. There are many places where nothing else will work. They are tricky to set, especially when you are on the edge. Cleaning them isn't any harder than a nut, you just have to learn a slightly different approach.
I'm a big fan if tri-cams. They're simple, always ready to do their job, and can be placed in many different positions and features. They're also basically maintenance free. The downside is you really need to know how to use them and place them properly. You can't just take them up the wall and throw one in a crack like you can a spring loaded cam. I carry the smallest four as part of my basic trad rack (.5 pink, 1, 1.5, 2). Larger than that, buy them and use them if you have specific needs for large cams.
"The downside is you really need to know how to use them and place them properly."
This is key. I think that a lot of the hate for tri-cams comes from people not taking the time to actually learn how to place and clean them properly. Tri-Cams are not bad to clean at all once you know what you're doing- I've collected a bunch from various climbs that people were apparently unable to clean.
I bought my Tricams to help me get up and down some tall dry falls in the canyons here in southern Nevada.(we all don't hang in casino's) Bigger ones work better for me, but I too love the pink one!
I never leave home without these guys. The pink tri fits everywhere I need it to. I have yet to take a whipper on one of these guys, but just having it jam into place in active or passive mode puts my mind at ease. Perfect for those weird pockets that a cam or nut won't do.
... is how I feel about tri cams... esp the little ones. I rarely manage to place the larger ones but the new little white one and the old favourite pink have made me feel very comfy. Recommend practicing to get a feel for them but once you get it they are a very versatile, dependable part of any alpine rack.
These are a staple of any great top-roping rack. And necessary for anyone climbing in horizontal crack country. I love them, and they fit a wide-variety of placements. And they're well-priced.
Tri-cams should be a standard on anyones' rack. They work well in shallow horizontal cracks. Don't place too deep for your partner to retrieve, and make sure they know how to take them out. I've lost two red, in two separate incidences where my partners whaled on the pieces trying to get them out, when in actuality they were set. I don't use anything bigger than a 2.0.
Most folks only have the first four or five, the new super small ones look freaky but beat the hell outa trying to stack RP's in a horizontal feature - which is probably where these little fellas excel! If $ and weight are an issue these are the best! Also, go down to the electric supply store and buy some heat shrink tube, cut it to fit about 2/3rds of the sling and heat it with great care. It makes 1 handed placement a snap and protects the sling very well!
Pink and red will do just fine. I'm not at the Gunks so these two make an excellent supplement to my rack for places like the Uintas where you find lots of horizontals. With the exception of some strange pockets, I think there are other solutions for most places that you can stick a tricam, but those other solutions are three times the price and 1/4 of the old school trad daddy factor. Learn to place tricams.
These Camp USA Tri Cams definitely have their place. They work great in horizontal placements and in many cases will fit in placements where passive pro or cams won't. The four smallest sizes are the most useful (pink, brown, red, and blue). Any placements bigger than those and you should be able to get something else in. The larger tri cams are heavy and you might as well buy Camalots.
Way off route, several grades up, rock is rejecting the normal gear, considering the consequences of the fall; get a grip man. You've got enough energy for a move, then a tri-cam placement, and you'll be ok. Make the move. Pop that tri-cam into the 'lil pocket that rejects nuts, cams, and even my knotted slings.
One Color, #0.125 (22.90)
One Color, #1.5 (22.90)
One Color, #2.0 (22.90)
One Color, #2.5 (24.90)
One Color, #3.0 (27.90)
One Color, #3.5 (32.90)
One Color, #4.0 (34.90)
Christmas present for my 17 yo son. Used them for first time on his first lead climb. A pretty easy pitch with alot of horizontal cracks. He loved them more...
You can probably find a place on every lead where the .5 fits and nothing else is secure. Bring it. If you want to cut down on the mid-sized pieces, the more...