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Description

All aboard the trad train's Mach Express.

Multipitch climbs, trad routes, and alpine ascents call for Camp USA's light, compact, and versatile Mach Express Dyneema 60cm Quickdraw. Its Nano 22 carabiner is Camp's lightest carabiner available, and it's small enough to fit through sunken stoppers, tight cracks, and small anchors. The Photon wire straight gate is a little bigger for easier rope-clipping, but it still retains a lighter weight for the faraway climbs. In between these biners, a Dyneema runner gives light-yet-strong convenience, and it extends to reduce rope drag on wandering routes.

  • Nano 22 wire carabiner
  • Photon wire straight gate carabiner
  • Dyneema runner

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5 5

Hands Down Best Alpine Draw

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is probably the best alpine draw I've used and really enjoyed. The combination of the 60cm sling, the Nano 22 biner on the hanger/gear end and the Photon Wire gate on the rope end...this thing is above all else. I have a bunch of alpine draws by other brands but this is definitely hands down my new favorite. Some trad routes are just gear or occasionally mixed and if I'm clipping an alpine draw to a hanger I like knowing that either me or any climbing partners are always going to clip the Nano 22 to the hanger, this way the Photon stays clean and doesn't abrade the rope.

Size:
The Photon is a full sized carabiner that is super easy to clip when cruxing. The Nano 22 is super easy to clip on gear slings or hangers. And the 60cm sling is the perfect length. As Bill put it in his review below....this really is a "work horse."

Gate:
There are other small sized carabiners that I struggle to appreciate their gate sizes. The gate size is bigger than what you'd expect on such a small carabiner. The FS Mini (by Metolius) has a gate size of 17mm while the CAMP USA Nano 22 has a gate size of 21mm. A whole 4mm bigger but the total weight of the Nano 22 is 0.8oz compared to 0.9oz for the FS Mini.

The gate size on the Photon wire gate is real big and super easy and pleasant to clip.

Clove Hitch:
Yeah, you can tie a clove hitch on the Nano 22 if you need to cannibalize the alpine draw at an anchor or in other scenarios . It's insane that you can do that! I've done it a few times, while it is awesome to have that functionality it is a tad hard with thicker ropes in the 10.2 range.

Weight:
These are insanely light which is perfect for cutting weight if you need to carry a large rack and plan on doing some alpine travel where weight can make a huge difference.

Shoot me an email anytime you have questions about the Mach Express alpine draw or any other gear!

Jared D.
Expert Gearhead
801.736.4336
jdowns@backcountry.com

5 5

They Take the Guess Work Out

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

A few years ago when I bought my trad rack I made a mistake. I bought 20 of the same carabiners, same color same size. Then I got a few of these bad boys. The 60 cm sling is my work horse I use them the most. What is special about them is the different color biners and size. So you have the little biner to clip the gear which is silver and then the bigger biner which is orange to clip the rope through. This means you always know that silver goes to metal and never on your rope. Can become a safety issue if you nick the biner and some metal is hanging out and then you clip that biner on to your rope. The orange biner also being slightly bigger makes it easier to clip the rope. The bigger gate just makes it easier for most people. Wish I bought 10 of these instead of what I did. <br /><br />In the picture I am using the Mach as a Prussik, another great application to have in the alpine.<br /><br />Thank you Andy Wickstrom for the sick picture!

They Take the Guess Work Out