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CAMP USA Ball Nuts are the only choice for hammerless aid-climbing protection in thin, parallel-sided cracks. When the going gets thin, pull the trigger and place a Ball Nut in a crack as narrow as 3mm. Release the trigger, and opposing forces of the brass ball and aluminum nut holds these tiny pieces of protection in place. Much faster and easier on the rock than banging in a knife blade, CAMP Ball Nuts are the last word in protecting thin free climbs and saving time on aid-climbing lines.
The Ball Nuts' 8kN strength (1798lb force) is ready to save your hide if you log some air time
These allow for fast placements in knife-blade-sized cracks
Bigger sizes suitable for cutting-edge hard trad climbs
I have the 2 smallest sizes (1 & 2) of these guys and they are great pieces for your aid arsenal. I have found the 2 smallest sizes to be most useful, above that you can get Black Diamond C3 000's (or other micro cams). These really shine in parallel sided thin cracks where you can't get a decent micro nut placement.
Trango or CAMP. What's the deal with the two manufacturers? CAMP I'm very familiar with. Trango not so much. Are they both manufacturing an identical product (LoweBalls)
Mark, they look a bit different (at least in the photos) and I see the CAMP version appears to have a bit stronger rating..probably in choice of web loops. I think I'll order up some CAMPs/ Thanks
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I fell on the #3. It was in a shallow flared seam. The ball rotated in the groove of the nut and held fast. The piece was hard to clean, but held the fall like a champ. The 2 and 3 stay on the racking biner with my small stoppers, rocks and microstoppers. Even the larger ones will go places that cams will not. I do not consider the smallest size worthy of lead falls of any size, however.
a huge fan was on Arrow Place at Red Rocks using my partners Ball Nut. Better really for aid and granite routes, but we find our purpose for these bad boys in the sandstone at times. A savior at the start of Arrow Place where cacti wait patiently below the crux decking move.
anyone know why the CAMP #1 ballnut is rated for 7kN but the trango #1 ballnut is rated for 4.5kN? Is it really a different manufacturer... they seem identical.
Two possiblities: Wire diameter, being trango decided to use smaller wire thus making a lower rating or trango decided either in testing or for liability reasons that it should be 4.5kN.
Awesome product great for protecting small cracks quickly!! I've taken a few good falls on the smaller sizes and didn't budge a millimetre. The only issue is that it can take forever to get them out once fallen on....but hey I didn't hit the deck and that's what counts.
I've used these fro about 15 years. I've gotten out of a lot of uprotected positions with them. You will have to watch the placement and make sure they are set correctly, but they are usually very solid and I've never had one pull out when fallen on or weighted.
Definitely a great addition... I wouldn't use them as a nut replacement, as I don't feel they are as secure as a good ole chock, but they definitely protect when nothing else will, and with a strength rating for their size that puts other pro to shame. Their construction and design seems rock solid, just be extra cognizant of each placement as with any piece... Its usually not the gear that fails, but the rock around it.
These are great alternatives to pitons and give a greater strength rating over smaller camming devices. I use these a lot. More than I thought I would.
I bought the 3 smallest sizes for aid climbing and I have not really used them that much. I would not really want to take wippers on the smallest size. They can be tricky to remove if heavily weighted because of the soft material on the "sliding ball". They are obviously great for small cracks and for podded out pin scars. They are definitely not my "go to" piece but a nice addition to a standard free or aid rack.
I have the 2 smallest sizes (1 & 2) of these guys and they are great pieces for your aid arsenal. I have found the 2 smallest sizes to be most useful, more...