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A long snow route with a couple pitches of ice is the hardest type of climbing to select an appropriate tool. You can either have a good ice tool that sucks for self arrest or a standard ice axe that can barely climb a pitch of easy ice. Not anymore. The Black Diamond Venom is an ice axe that's designed self arrest and plunge into the snow easily but offer good ice performance. The interchangeable, classically curved pick is designed to provide solid placements while ice climbing and to self arrest securely. The Venom's slight bend at the top of the shaft increases vertical performance without sacrificing the ability to plant the shaft in the snow. A perfect alpine leash, the Lockdown, is included with this versatile axe.
Used these on my last trip. Length really depends on what conditions you're in, I had 57's and wish I had the 50's just for better plunging in not so deep snow. Also shorter length would help on steeper slopes for using the pick. My first time using something other than ice specific axes. These are very light and felt better using a leash with them than not. The step up with these compared to a snow tool is the slight bend and the fact that you can replace the pick. I would say light ice use/more snow use. Tools have changed so much since my last experience it was fun to give them a go, nice tool!
I think the only tool that compares to the BD Venom for technical alpine climbs or for high altitude mountaineering, is the Petzl Aztarex- mainly because nothing compares with these two tools for their lighter weight. But during such climbs- especially those with long sections of steep snow- the Venom excels over the Aztarex for a few reasons, but one in particular: it plunges well. The Venom also climbs through technical sections and mixed terrain with great balance and feel- even on vertical and bullet-hard ice- but MOST importantly it climbs securely in steep snow due to a smooth grip/shaft transition and a sharp spike, which is key for self-belay and anchoring. Other tools with molded handles and finger supports do not plunge well, and the Aztarex has a hollow, open shaft which fills up with snow. I've tried and compared many tools from all major brands, and for weight, durability, climbing versatility, leash, and interchangeable picks, nothing currently on the market compares with Venom for alpine climbing. Make sure to buy the Tech Picks, unless you intend to climb only snow- and then you should go for an even lighter tool than the Venom.For climbs with longer hard technical sections or difficult mixed climbing, I prefer the Black Diamond Cobra.
How would you compare the new Petzl Sum'tec to Venom? The Sum'tec has a spike and a movable hand rest and was wondering if this might make it an improved option over the Venom. Any thoughts?
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I have used this tool skiing in Yellowstone and also in the summer to climb Mount Owen. I am just getting into mountaineering and am not really familiar with what is good and what is better. All of mountaineering friends recommended this tool as the best all around tool. Even Stephen Koch thought it was a good choice. It was perfect for the two adventures I have taken it on.
I use this as my primary ice axe and its amazing whenever I hit some hard snow or ice. I used to use a raven pro, but have replaced it with this after some less than pleasant experiences with ice. If you're looking for an ice axe that will work okay on ice/ hard snow, this is it. However glissading with it is a little scary. Be wary.
How would you compare the new Petzl Sum'tec to the Venom? The Sum'tec has a spike and a movable hand rest and was wondering if this might make it an improved option over the Venom. Any thoughts?
I've been wondering the same thing, so I'll throw in my two cents. Haven't used either, so take this with a grain of salt.
At 50 cm the Venom is 4 ounces lighter than the 52 cm Sum'tec. It's a 19% weight difference which I think is reasonable to distribute across all the other lengths, though I can't find data on the weight of longer Venoms. If you adjust for the 4% difference in lengths, it ends up being a 16% difference. That seems fairly significant, especially when we're talking about a quarter-pound and above.
Also, this seems like the sort of axe you would always use with a leash. So while a hand rest is nice for comfort and finger protection, it is hardly necessary.
Used these for 5 days in the White Mtns. on a Snow climb, two gulley climbs in Huntington's Ravine, and two days of ice and they performed much better than expected. I have the 57cm in Adze and Hammer and they were great on vertical NEI3/4 grade climbs, in the piolet-canne position they plunged very well, performed self-arrest flawlessly. I have the tech picks on both and self arrest was fast and not a problem. They stuck well, hammered well, and chopped well....what more do you need from a technical mountain tool? If you are heading to the hills and know you are going to be doing some technical climbing as well as snow climbing (think Liberty Ridge, Mt Washington, N. Face of Mt Baker) this is the tool for you. Not as sweet as some of the other vertical ice tools I used but then again, they are not as good on snow.
Perfect for ski mountaineering or as a backup tool. I chose it over the couple of iterations of the Raven series simply because it has a replaceable blade. It is well balanced and a perfect all-around winter climbing/hiking tool. The included leash is a nice touch but I prefer to have the freedom to switch hands when necessary...
Used this on a climb of Early Morning Couloir on North Sister in the Oregon Cascades. Worked well for steep snow. The ice was in good shape just below the summit and it worked beautifully for the pitch of ice climbing, well-balanced for swinging. Caught a crampon descending the steep snow slope to the south and it self-arrests well. Great tool for these mixed conditions with minimal technical ice climbing and lots of snow. My other axe was a longer, straight axe which was too long for the steep snow and didn't swing well when the snow got steeper or while climbing the ice pitch.
I used the Venom for five days on a row and have never met a better ice axe for general climbing. It is certainly not a specialized ice-climbing tool, but it is light, easy to use and durable enough for any trekking across snow and ice. And the slight curve of the handle at the end makes it a great assistance on those rock climbing moves. A few times I was literally hanging by the axe itself on the rock.
This tool makes a good set of tools for general mountaineering where you might encounter steep snow and frozen snow and can still handle low angle water ice if needed. The later being more difficult due to the leashes more than anything else. If they made a leashless kit like the one on the bd vipers, that would be great.
...does not swing as nicely as Grivel Air Tech Evo. I also have a concern about the the rubber grip when plunging it into hard snow because the grip is not completely flush with the shaft. I really like the replaceable blades though.
I think the only tool that compares to the BD Venom for technical alpine climbs or for high altitude mountaineering, is the Petzl Aztarex- mainly because more...
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