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Description

Don't stop at your rack when it comes to lightening your gear. Grab the Black Diamond VaporLock Carabiner to shave even more ounces.

The Black Diamond VaporLock Carabiner checks in at an ultralight 51grams (1.8oz) for climbers who want to make their gear as light as possible. In addition to weighing incredibly little, the VaporLock Carabiner also includes a keylock gate for snag-free operation. Black Diamond gave this locking 'biner a basket wide enough to allow you to use a Munter hitch on ropes up to 9.4mm during climbs where even the belay device seems excessive (or you dropped it).

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Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner

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Here's what others have to say...

2 5

Why?

I see no reason to purchase this piece of gear. It saves a whole 5 GRAMS over the positron screwgate 56 grams. There is a negligible difference in size over the positron locker. It is advertised as pear-shaped rather than the positron off-set D shape. Hardly noticeable difference in geometry in terms of usage. Its 21 KN strength is weaker than the positron locker's 25 KN. So, my question is: WHY WOULD YOU EVER SPEND AN EXTRA 6 USD FOR THIS CARABINER? I did. And I still don't know why... People that say it is perfect for anchors: You really prefer saving those extra 5 grams per carabiner over the extra 6 USD per? If so, you are BD's favorite customer.

Responded on

Fine, I'll bite..

On a long alpine route that weight adds up. Imagine having to not only climb many pitches with that weight, but also having to carry the weight into the backcountry. Now imagine if you took 5 grams off the weight of everything in your pack. Now you've saved several pounds. If your approaches and routes aren't long, $6 might not be worth it, but if you're hauling that weight around for huge long days, I'd go for the weight savings.

As to your second point, the pear shape makes a carabiner infinitely easier to use with a Munter hitch and the larger radius of the basket gives less friction if it's being used as an anchor carabiner. Also, pear shaped carabiners are generally much heavier, in the realm of 80 grams, than the Vaporlock. Again, the Positron has it's place, as does the Vaporlock.

And your comment about the rated strength? 21kN v 25kN? Well the human spine breaks at about 10kN. If you're in a situation where the extra 4kN of strength on the Positron makes a difference, you've probably got bigger things to worry about.

Responded on

While I appreciate your views as I can tell you have experience in these matters, I am compelled to follow up. My review focused on the fundamentals of a carabiner: Weight, Size, and Strength.

If you claim that $6 is worth 5 grams of weight savings (which you do), then you are spending $600 to save ONE POUND. Not many consumers can do that. Certainly not on the expeditions that you mention, with mounting logistical costs. Do some extra pull ups. Do some more squats and deadlifts. Maybe don't drink that extra beer or that soda.

As for the geometry, I stand by my previous statement: Hardly noticeable difference in geometry in terms of usage. There is a picture of one being used with a Gri-Gri... Says it all.

Strength: When you load a carabiner at an anchor point and there is greater than 90 degrees between the lines of the cordelettes/webbing running to the bolts/pro then the vector forces along those lines increase exponentially. This will result in forces on the carabiners and the lines being many times greater than the loads they support. Something to keep in mind when setting up your equalized anchor system. True, the extra 4 kN doesn't make the positron significantly better than the vaporlock, but it certainly doesn't make it worse.

At the end of the day it comes down to cost. I think it is a stupid buy but like I said, Black Diamond's favorite customers are out there.

5 5

My anchor carabiners

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I now have a total of 3 of these bad boys. Perfect for anchors.

5 5

Great improvement weight wise over RL

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is the weight conscious version of the Rocklock. Its great, although I do find that with some Auto-locking belay devices like the Smart and Jul that the RockLock is far smoother.

5 5

Initial impressions

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I bought these after a long-review of the different locking biners available. I have some BD positrons which are small and great for extending anchors, but heavy. I have some BD rock locks which I use primarily for belay. Like it but very heavy. These all worked fine when all I did was sport climbing. Now that I am hooked on trad and multi-pitch, as I added to my rack, I knew I had to think about weight. The VaporLock is what I landed on due to size, flexibility, and especially weight. I have used them belaying, anchoring, and extending anchors with slings and like it so far.

5 5

lightweight, durable, easy tu use

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

great allround biner.
lightweight but not as much as the petz 3D but cheaper

5 5

My new favorite

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Due to its design, the gate opens wider than most lockers and is smaller and lighter than most. I personally hate twist locks and the screwlock is very smooth and has never bound up on me. I've used these building anchors and have one that has become a permanent attachment to my Grigri.

5 5

Great locker

This locker is awesome. Lightweight, small for racking and just the right size for anchors. I mainly use it for anchors while top roping, but I have used it to belay. This would not be my first choice in a belay carabiner, just due to its smaller size. I prefer the BD Rocklock because of its size, and it allows for a munter hitch in an emergency. Great carabiner to always have on the sling.

5 5

Lightweight and Great

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Black Diamond Vaporlock is always on me to build or use as an anchor on sport routes. Gets the job done, while still remaining lightweight and handy.

4 5

Excellent

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Put these guys to the test at my work when taking people outdoors. lightweight, it locks, and can hold my fatass. Would use for toprope anchors. not favorite for belay b/c of size.

5 5

works like a charm

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the snag-free keylock on this carabiner. It makes it really easy to manipulate the rope when your hands aren't feeling so great.

5 5

perfect with the ATC guide.

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

dRealy lightweight, ano works great to belay.

4 5

Another classic piece

Having worked at Black Diamond and used their products for many years, I can fully recommend the Vaprlock to anyone. I've seen them being made, go through QA, and have used them in my personal climbing adventures. They are light, durable, incredibly strong and the design behind them is second to none. There is a reason they win so many awards.

4 5

Great biner!

Lightweight, well shaped. It is excellent as a piece in an anchor or holding your ATC or GriGri in place. This is my go-to biner.

5 5

Best locker out there

roomy, low profile, notchless, smooth action.

5 5

Great Caribiner

Ligthweight, easy to use. I use mine with belaying, as well as to anchor in a top rope. Easy to open and close.

4 5

Simple, solid, lightweight, versatile

and easy to handle. Fits a lot of ropes/slings/etc.

Not the best for belaying off the anchor due to a high friction. In all other respects it's a great locker.

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