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Good draws

    Good and solid draws. I took a 20 foot fall with one of them and it still looks like new expect for the little scratches from the friction with the bolt.
    Wiregates are the way to go for sure, light, easy to clip, and dont get knocked opened. Too bad the bolt biner is not wiregate too.
    These draws are good enough for any sport routes, no need for these fancy petzl stuff...

    Great first set

      These draws are great for a beginner sport climber like myself. I bought two packs and love how light they are and easy to use. I bought two packs and have not had a need yet for more than twelve..... yet

      sweet first set of draws

        i've only been climbing for about four months, so this is the first set of quickdraws i've purchased. However, i have used a couple other brands so i have a little bit to compare them to. I really like them! The 'biners and dynex dogbones are both pretty lightweight. The wiregates is are awesome--clipping is almost effortless. they look pretty cool too. i definitely recommend these draws.

        Nice but...

          The draws work well for sport climbing but not so well for trad. The wire gates clip cleanly and are easy to operate. On a trad lead when clipping to nuts or other wired devices the dog bones are stiff and don't allow enough twist for the rope end to lay the direction you really want.

          PREFERED draw off my rack!!

            just klimbed some sketchy 11b or c yesterday.. i had these, and a set of heavy normal gates on my rack. without thinking about it, i noticed i was saving these draws for the crux neer the top of the route. once i got there, i was glad i had these. they are super light, sturdy, and quick. no hassle.. made pushing the crux a little more reassuring. only thing that could be better, is if Black diamond could make their prices a little more appealing.
            i would gladly throw out my standard draws and replace them with another two sets of these if they were just a bit more affordable. overall, a little pricy, although also not the most explensive, but i would say if you do spend the money on them, you wont be dissapointed.

            Lovin em!

              Another happy customer. I've wanted wires for so long but it's hard to replace gear when the stuff you have isn't worn out. So after my lead rack was stolen replacing with new shiny stuff is just about the only silver lining I can find!

              If you don't know why wire gates are superior get your hands on one and a normal gated quickdraw. Hold the nylon part of the quickdraw and bang the back of your gate on your hand. With the non wired gate you can hear a clicking sound, that's the gate opening and snaping shut!! Imagine the draw slapping the rock as you take a whipper, that's not the best time for the gate to pop open. Wired draws have much less inertia in the gate so there's no clicking sound and so, no open gate as you fall.

              The added bonus is the gate's wire loop presents a flat surface so your rope is that tiny bit more stable as you clip. Sometimes that tiny bit of stability can feel a whole lot more useful, when things are getting sketchy and you're way up above your last piece.

              My lust for shiny things has been fully ignited again :)

              Unanswered Question

              So is the "rubber straightjacket" on the...

              So is the "rubber straightjacket" on the inside of the webbing because I can't see it and I've seen other draws where the rubber looks to surround the rope end of the dogbone.

              Is a wire gate safer than a solid gate?

              Is a wire gate safer than a solid gate?

              Best Answer

              That is a question that is highly debatable. It is mostly agreed that wiregates are easier to clip, and don't exhibit gate slap. FYI, gate slap happens when you hit the back of the rope 'biner on your hand or a wall and the mass of the solid gate makes the gate itself open up, wires have less mass and it is nearly impossible to reproduce this under normal falling conditions.

              However, solid and bent gates are stronger overall, and I don't really think much harder to clip under most circumstances. I have a mix of both wire and solid gate biners on my rack.

              Wire gate biners are also supposed to be better for ice climbers because you can get them open easier if they freeze. I'm not an ice climber and therefore cannot independently confirm that, but it makes sense to me as an engineer.

              Hope that helped, Climb On.

              I went to look at a pack of these at a...

              I went to look at a pack of these at a local climbing gym, and the guy at the counter scoffed at my decision to buy a draw that didn't have wire biners on both ends. To make his point about gate flutter, he began hitting the solid gate (which you'd clip to the bolt/gear) against the palm of his hand so I could hear it opening.

              I understand the concept of gate flutter, but to me it doesn't seem like it'd be an issue on the biner you clip into bolt/gear, as this biner does not gain any significant velocity in a fall and therefore the gate does not gain enough momentum to 'flutter'. For the biner clipped into the rope this makes total sense, but not for the bolt biner...

              So, is gate flutter an issue (as was explained to me at the gym) on the bolt biner, and if so, does buying double wire draws increase one's safety significantly?

              Best Answer

              There are technically two types of gate flutter. The first, as you described, is most commonly known as Shutter Gate, and indeed comes from the rope biner's spine hitting the crag in such a fashion that the moment the biner is open, the full force of the fall comes into effect....

              Gate flutter seems far more unlikely to me. Gate flutter is when the movement of the rope though a carabiner creates a sympathetic harmonic vibration in the carabiner. Causing the gate to open and close slightly. I'm trying to think of a situation where a loaded draw with rope running through it would A.) see enough shock for it to come into play, or B.) have rope running though the first biner that will catch you have rope running through it before it is loaded with your fall. The scenarios just seem less likely.

              That said, I agree with you that it is unlikely that the bolt biner will see enough force to open the gate. Your guy at the gym sounds like he was on an ego trip.

              What are the advantages/disadvantages of...

              What are the advantages/disadvantages of utilizing wire-gate quickdraws to bent-gate quickdraws

              How much weight can these quickdraws...

              How much weight can these quickdraws handle?

              Is this the wrong photo? I don't see wire...

              Is this the wrong photo? I don't see wire gates.

              how long are the slings on these quick...

              how long are the slings on these quick draws?