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For climbers who live on the wall.

The Black Diamond Chaos Harness blends lightweight functionality with long-lasting comfort so you can hit up difficult, multipitch routes that last all day. Its Kinetic Core Construction consists of a durable nylon shell, a breathable 3D AirMesh lining, Vectran strands that evenly distrubute your body's weight, and lightweight EVA foam inserts for added lumbar support that keeps you comfy on hanging belays. The Forged Speed Adjust buckle has a raised side rail that helps prevent abrasions against the webbing, an upturned baseplate that allows an easier lift for loosening, and a rear kick down on the top plate that eliminates any slippage while you climb.

The Chaos also features elasticized leg loops that softly secure your legs without the need of buckles, and you can either adjust or release the elastic rear riser for an ideal fit and optional drop-seat use. Four pressure-molded gear loops give you plenty of space for your cams, alpine draws, and whatever gear you need to make the ascent. And its haul loop is rated at 12 kN in order to ensure you can bring what you need to send the biggest, baddest routes out there.

  • Kinetic Core Construction
  • Forged Speed Adjust buckle
  • Elasticized leg loops
  • Adjustable, releasable elastic rear riser
  • EVA foam inserts
  • Four pressure-molded gear loops
  • 12 kN-rated haul loop

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Here's what others have to say...

2 5

Not durable, bad buckle, hard to fit

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

As far as I remeber I did not need a harness when I bought my Black Diamond Chaos harness. It was an emotional "oh gosh! It has so good reviews and 30% off today. I should try it against my cheap harness". Everybody knows this hook and still some of us are sometimes caught by this trick.

My initial impression on this harness was positive: low profile, light, comfortable, big and convenient gear loops, strong haul loop. Anyway there were something we call "a spoon of tar in a honey jar" in Russia - step-in design and speed buckle.

Speed buckle is something to fry a webbing (mine was worn off in about year and half). It is just bad - uncomfortable, hard to adjust, sometimes it sticks in the middle. Bad.

A few words about step-in design. First, it is unsafe. Sometimes you need to put your harness on without moving your feet. Clearly impossible with step-in harnesses. OK, they are not for alpine, so this argument is not valid. Not a problem, I have another stronger argument - I feel like I am putting on underpants over my pants every time I put on a harness of this kind, a ridiculously foolish feeling.

Also there are some other issues with this harness:
* The Small size is not that small. There should be at least half size smaller harness.
* It is very assymetric after tightening the buckle to the end position.
* Gear loops attachment points break easily.

In short. Pros:
+ Little bulk.
+ Comfy gear loops.
+ Strong haul loop.

- Not durable.
- Speed buckle.
- Step-in desing.
- Gear loops break esily.
- No small size.

I can recommend it only to those who:
1. Have at least 32" in theirs waist.
2. Can afford a new harness every year (stop here! This is a waste! Please, do not trash my planet!)

Bottom line. Look for something better.