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Description

Simple and ready to go.

Get the full functionality of the finest crag gear without the unnecessary bells and whistles. The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device demonstrates a commitment to simplicity and utility, which at least in part explains why it won Climbing Magazine's Editor's Choice Award. Capable of both high-friction and regular friction modes, the ATC-XP accommodates a wide range of rope diameters.

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Review Summary
5
31 4
11 3
5 2
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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

My first choice

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love this ATC. Super versatile with high and low friction sides. Easy to set up an light. I used this ATC operating a summer camp and belayed over 500 people with it. Never failed me.

5 5

Great device

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've been using this atc for 6 months now. I love it. Very light and you can't beat the price! It works great with thicker diameter ropes too.

5 5

Stoked on it.

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Just got this, used it all day yesterday. I belay someone who is quite a bit heavier than me and I love having the help of a little friction from this ATC. I wanted something better than basic, but without jumping to a GriGri, and this is perfect.

4 5

happy

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I got this after returning the Mammut's Element Light Belay for getting a deeper-than-just-the-paint dent first day on the job. Sure, this is heavier but I appreciate its solidity.

Q: Pros out there, what's a belay device option for really fat/soaked ropes? I had a hard time getting thick rope through this device.

5 5

Awesome Belay Device.

This was a gift with many other climbing accessories and so far they feel comfortable using the BD atc-xp belay device. They have been bringing it along with them everytime they go out. Functional and great device!

5 5

Great belay device

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used this both outside and in the gym and I love it. It gives you great control with the friction groves. A must have on my rack.

4 5

If you wanna belay, get one.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Although I don't use it much it is a damn fine belay device. Not my favorite to rappel with but thats just me. I always carry this with me. A must for any climber.

5 5

A must

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Wether you prefer ATCs or grigri's this is still a must, especially if you ever need to rappel after a climb. In my opinion I also think if you don't know how to use an ATC you shouldn't be using grigri to begin with because this teaches the basics and doesn't give people a chance to get sloppy with their belay technique. grigris are nice for belaying someone working on a project but for easy warmups and gimmes the ATC-XP is easy to work with, smooth and accommodates all size ropes.

As far as the actual ATC-XP, it's an ATC, not much to say. I like the colors and it works like an ATC-XP should. I've never heard of one of these failing unless it was human error.

This specific ATC is nice for sport or Toprope as opposed to the ATC guide which can be used for directionals on multipitch and the normal ATC which is good for nothing as it wears down and gets sharp rather quickly.

5 5

Perfect Device....

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

My fiance and I have relied on this device for a long time. Now, I love the Gri Gri from Petzl, but if you're looking for the best ATC Guide on the market, this is my go to. We just bought one for my fiance and she is ecstatic about it. It's lightweight, durable, and wonderfully comfortable to use. I like the grooved side for thinner ropes. It catches everything.

Thanks Black Diamond!

5 5

High friction side

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have used this ATC plenty of times and one bit of advice I can pass down to anyone who is going to buy this is when you are rap'n off an anchor don't use the high friction side... It will make your life much harder. Especially if you are repelling from a good distance. Over all no complaints, I would pick up one of these for any beginner.

5 5

BD Nails it!!

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Black Diamond made a real solid belay device with the ATC-XP. You have good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope. It works great on ropes thinner then 10mm. It is a little heavier the the ATC for the fact it's beefier and also has teeth.The friction slots offer three times greater hold and stopping power, according to BD. And it won Editor's Choice on OutdoorGearLab. The color options are also pretty rad. I just find this to be superior to most other belay devices along with being easy on the wallet.

BD Nails it!!
4 5

Solid piece of equiptment...

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I use this ATC at least 3x a week for a year or so and i have had no problems with it. solid product. It has not given me any problems unlike some Camp ATC's i have used at my gym. Give it a go you won't regret the purchase.

3 5

just good

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

would recomend buying thereverso or the ATC instead. youll save money if you have to buy it afterwards for multipitch climbing
it is also sometimes hard to feed rope fast with it. dont know why.

Responded on

Do you mean the ATC Guide? Pretty sure the regular ATC shouldn't be used to belay from the anchor.

If you need to feed the rope faster on the ATC-XP, try using it in RFM per the instructions included with your device:
http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aakn_prd/on/demandware.static/Sites-BlackDiamond-Site/Sites-bdel/default/v1393398853641/files/M10798_A%20ATCGuide_IS%20WEB.pdf

4 5

Great start-in ATC

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought this ATC when first getting into rock climbing, canyoneering, and ice climbing. It did its job for all three but I prefer this one for when belaying or ice climbing. The friction control makes it a little more difficult for when repelling; especially if you are first new to free hanging. Still great ATC when first starting out and doing single pitch climbs.

5 5

*The* Belay Device

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Great for beginners up to experienced climbers (although they'll probably want the Guide).

Easy to use, safe, lightweight, and the benefits of the extra-friction side is nice to have. There's a reason why the ATC (and it's derivatives) are so popular.

4 5

First and only ATC

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I don't multi-pitch, so this makes for the perfect simple belay device. It has the nice addition of teeth on one side to provide extra friction, so you don't have to work as hard to hold the rope (and ultimately the climber) in place. Great for toproping and leading single-pitch.

However, this is not the best multi-pitch ATC, go for the guide, and I personally prefer to use a GriGri when belaying because it's just simpler and I like how it feels. However, this is much cheaper and lightweight, so it makes for a great belay device for all climbers.

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