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Description

Simple and ready to go.

Get the full functionality of the finest crag gear without the unnecessary bells and whistles. The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device demonstrates a commitment to simplicity and utility, which at least in part explains why it won Climbing Magazine's Editor's Choice Award. Capable of both high-friction and regular friction modes, the ATC-XP accommodates a wide range of rope diameters.

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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

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Here's what others have to say...

3 5

Go with ATC Guide instead

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This ATC only weighs a little bit less than the ATC Guide but has much less functionality. Unless you are 100% certain that you will never belay from above, it makes a lot more sense to go with the ATC Guide. This is a well made product, per se, but I see the lack of guide feature as a serious flaw.

5 5

Great belay device

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've been primarily using this with my wife when we go to the gym for some top rope climbing and it works like a charm. The gym has some thicker ropes and this device handles them no sweat. I used this device on a trip down to Zions in Pine Creek, Birch Hollow, and Subway (from the top) and it works great as a rappelling device as well. I recommend getting an actual rappel device, but this did work just fine for me.

5 5

Awesome ATC

I have used this ATC forever, it runs rope great! It makes a good rappel device and runs thick rope really good! Not my main belay device but normally what is hooked to my harness at the gym or mellow days outdoors. I would recommend this guy to anyone.

4 5

Buy the guide!

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I assumed that the guide had features that I wouldn't use as a beginning climber but I soon found that belaying from the top is useful in quite a few top-roping locations. Otter Cliffs in Acadia is a great example! I wish I'd gotten the guide and probably will soon.

3 5

Meh.

Just spend the extra $8 and get the ATC Guide - otherwise you'll be spending $29 to buy the Guide in a year and you'll never use this guy again.

4 5

Simple, Easy

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

A great ATC with extra stopping power for those narrow diameter ropes that are used so often on glaciers and ski mountaineering objectives. But I honestly would just go with a Petzl Reverso or BD similar offering for the added versatility of auto-locking and top belaying. It's useful, but I want as many uses out of my rack with as little pieces, so this XP isn't quite there personally. But overall, if it's what you're looking for, it's a good product I think

4 5

More Power!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Plenty of friction. Great for the belay or rapel. Does what it needs to do. It is lightweight and easy to use. Can't ask for much more. Use it in the gym. Use it at the crag. Use it in a box with a fox.

More Power!
5 5

It's cool

I got this atc to be able to catch heavier people that I belay for when they lead. It offers great friction as well as being light which is nice for a difficult route where weight matters.

How well will this work on an 8.7mm Mammut Climbing single rope ?

Responded on

It'll work just fine - put it in high friction mode for a bit of extra stopping power from the grooves

5 5

Does what it needs to.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Looks great, feels great, and works great.
Great ATC.

5 5

Good product

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Haven't dropped anyone yet ;)

But seriously. Works as good as an ATC needs to. High-friction mode is nice, but I think it's really more of a mental reassurance than anything, as I haven't noticed a difference in catching falls with/without it :)

5 5

ATC-XP Belay

  • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

"A 10mm rope has enough space to fit into the ATC and move freely, and yet the grooves in the ATC make stopping a falling climber slippage and worry free."

5 5

Go to belay device

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

As far as belay devices go this should be an industry standard. The grip teeth and the rope channel make it simple to keep your climber safe on the wall. Its light weight, durable, and looks great too. I have used it with all types or rope, as well as all types of climbing. Wether its top rope at the gym or sport at the crag this belay gets it done, hands down.

I love this atc!!!

I love this atc!!!

I've had mine well over a year and would still give this little device 5 of 5 stars overall. The only problem is it isn't functional as a multi-pitch auto-locking device, but that's why its cheaper than the ATC GUIDE and Reverso.

Awesome for cragging though! Love mine.

(Pic-ON BELAY!)

5 5

Upgrade for the original.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I got the XP earlier this year after dropping my old ATC off a ledge half way of Devils Tower. I had the standard ATC before and I like this one better due to the two options. The high friction side is great to belay with or when on a tricky rap and being able to turn it around and have normal friction again is great. An excellent ATC, very happy with the performance and design.

4 5

Does its job.

I bought this and its exactly what you'd expect. Its an ATC. I like it because of the friction thing. I am a smallish person and all of my friends are grown men so the added friction. I just bought it to have my own belay device and it does what it needs to do. Its pretty lightweight and I like the orange color.

4 5

Simple. Dependable. Predictable.

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The only reason I gave this product 4 stars was for the amount of friction this item has. It's hard to get used to but once you, belaying people quickly and predictably becomes second nature.

4 5

simple but elegant

  • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

I gave this to my cousin for this christmas past and he really seems to like it. From what he has imparted to me, he has used it a few times outdoor/indoor and it takes care of the job it needs to do. Not quite the guide model but most people don't need that many attachments and options. Simple, durable, and reliable

5 5

Aaron Tam

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I like this ATC belay device. It's super easy to use and lightweight. Easy to let people down without having to push through the rope.