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Black Diamond ATC Guide
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Whether your beat is alpine, mixed, sport, or ice climbing, the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device offers a simple but versatile design to keep you moving through the vertical. The ATC Guide's self-locking capability comes in handy when you find yourself belaying a second, and its aggressive v-notch increases stopping and holding power. Speaking of versatility, this device handles ropes ranging in diameter from 7.7mm to 11mm so you can take it in the alpine as well as to the gym. But if you really want to know why Climbing Magazine gave it one of their prestigious Editor's Choice Award, you'll just have to try it for yourself.
Bottom Line: Utility without unnecessary bells and whistles.
Talk shop with all the gear freaks out there: ask 'em questions, upload/browse photos, and give your 2¢.
Best multi pitch belay ever
By: Jonathan Buehler
January 30, 2012
Once you belay someone from above using the auto-locking, masterpoint technique this bad boy allows for, you'll never use another belay device. That and it's sexy as hell to the touch.
Best Belay Device.
By: Cedar Wright
May 4, 2011
Black Diamond took a great belay device and made it BAD ASS!!!! I think this is the best Belay Device going....Light, and versatile... This thing will conserve a lot of energy on multi pitch climbs, if you use it's auto blocking feature, and this will make multi tasking and de-clustering a lot easier. I love this thing.
1 Comment Last Comment: December 7, 2011 by: Thomas Ogasawara
By: Thomas Ogasawara
December 7, 2011
I agree! This thing is the real deal.
Trusty
By: Thomas Ogasawara
July 15, 2011
Good for:
• Top roping
• Multi pitch
• Sport climbing
• Bouldering
• Rappelling
• Top belaying
• Everything
Well maybe not bouldering, but still, this thing is an essential tool for almost every kind of climbing. Many much versatility with this thing.
Belaying off the harness with ATC Guide
By: Simon Hatfield
April 14, 2011
Hi is there any difference in performance of this new version
Hi is there any difference in performance of this new version of ATC Guide? Any potential downsides in comparison with the old one? Or is it just little lighter and thats all? I only see that they have enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner which is kinda nice.
By: Mike Gorecki
May 2, 2011
It's pretty much just the weight difference, and the carabiner hole you pointed out. The dimensions are the same so it'll feed exactly the same, and I imagine it's not quite as strong with the removed material in the sides. That said, I had a buddy that worked at BD's QC department breaking gear, and the last one had a test strength of a BILLION kN [citation needed], so this is still stronger than any of the 'biners that BD makes. Other than that it's just lighter. And prettier.
By: Angus Bohanon
May 2, 2011
great!
By: rowan
January 5, 2012
haven't used a reverso yet so i can't compair, but this atc guide does everything i want. simple light, really great when you're climbing in a 3 person team and want to bring up followers at the same time. seems to be wearing faster than my old atc, but i think that more due to the conditions/ropes we've been climbing with. make sure you or your leader have one, auto locking is a must!
great!
By: rowan
January 5, 2012
haven't used a reverso yet so i can't compair, but this atc guide does everything i want. simple light, really great when you're climbing in a 3 person team and want to bring up followers at the same time. seems to be wearing faster than my old atc, but i think that more due to the conditions/ropes we've been climbing with. make sure you or your leader have one, auto locking is a must!
Belaying off the anchor with the ATC Guide. Bird on a Wire, Joshua Tree NP
By: Simon Hatfield
April 14, 2011
Although somewhat difficult to see the actual device, this is a nice illustration of how to use this to conveniently belay a second off of the anchor. Garrett is clipped to the shelf with a clove hitch on a locker. His 2nd is tied in to the end of the rope that extends off the right of the photo. The rope runs through the ATC guide in a manner such that if the 2nd were to weight the rope, it would pinch the brake strand against the device, holding the fall. The ATC guide is attached to the master point by its large carabiner hole, with one locking carabiner, and utilizes another to create friction.
By: briham89
December 12, 2011
i usually attach another biner which connects the master point and the other biner (the one rope is being pulled through) that way if s*** goes wrong you have two attachments to the anchor instead of just one
Yup
By: Jeff Chrisler
November 1, 2011
For multi-pitch climbs, this is an essential. The auto locking feature and minimal weight are huge. I dropped my first ATC guide off one of the flatirons in Boulder and was ticked until I realized this newer one weighs less :)
Great device!
By: Brady Callahan
December 14, 2011
This is an excellent belay device. The hole in the side for top belaying is great. Over all a great piece of equipment.
These is MUST HAVe!
By: Federico Garcia
May 16, 2011
These ATC is a must have for any climber, i have the old version, but is the same the only difference is that the new one have a bigger hole to set up the decent system and it is made of a more resistant and lighter material. It works just perfect for any kind of belay, just the BEST!!
This is a better shot of my self belay..
By: the4847113
October 5, 2011
I love this thing. It has endless capabilities and is a solid and secure platform for belay (either self,top rope, or seconds from anchor) and finds a lot of use on my rack.
1 Comment Last Comment: October 5, 2011 by: the4847113
By: the4847113
October 5, 2011
I use a grigri a lot too... but believe it or not, I feel more secure with the ATC as it auto-locks fast and in most positions. I have inverted while locked off and it's held. I've just not tested it yet on an up side down fall yet... I will when I have my partner out with me and maybe a double prusik (actually I use the kleimheist knot for this setup) as it seems to slide easier, yet tighten when it should.
All you need
By: Randomintelligentguy
October 18, 2011
top rope belays, trad anchor belays, top belays, rapping down with one or more ropes - rock or ice. This is the only belay/rappel device I have ever needed, it does it all and it's light weight plus it's WAY more secure than a Munter for a top belay, it practically works like a grigri up top.
Perfect belay device
By: Josh Lodge
September 7, 2011
From belaying a pair of followers of an anchor to belaying a heavy leader the ATC Guide has been dialed to perfection. If you can find the old version on sale I wouldn't hesitate for the minimal weight difference.
Great ATC
By: Matthew Hutchison
July 27, 2011
Works just like everyone's old ATC, but you can bring up two seconds in the autolock mode and it has the ridged side for extra friction if you are rapelling with a pack or in a rescue situation. Just awesome advance as far as ATCs go. Often imitated never duplicated. Trick: put a runner girth hitched through the other hole when in autolock mode, to assist in unlocking it if your second gets stuck on the crux and needs lowered.
It works, but......
By: Benny B
August 18, 2011
This does the trick, however, it tends to be a bit tougher to handle a rope above 10mm with this over other belay devices I have used, especially when feeding out rope to a leader. This has not an issue on the same ropes for me with a reverso 3. Still a great belay device for everything (nice design on the top belay for a seconding climber), but when using a fatter rope, just be aware it may not be as smooth as you hope.
This is set for auto lock of my harness..
By: the4847113
October 5, 2011
I use this setup for self belay. A prusik in case of a failure, and it works great. Just hard to lower with my 250 lbs on it. I have since hooked a nice lanyard for that issue.
works just perfect
By: trail ninja
July 2, 2011
very nice and smooth action. works very well and is so light.
Great
By: Thomas
August 24, 2011
I just got it last week, but I can tell it's going to last me a while. while lead belaying, you need a round carabiner. The friction grooves are great because it makes it easier to catch a fall. It works well as long as you don't let go. Great for the Price. This was my first belay device and it works really well. I can climb with it on me and I barely notice it's there.
Gold Standard
By: Tommy Chandler
March 22, 2011
Got one of these pups before my trip to the Bugaboos last summer and it's a nice upgrade from the previous ATC-Guide. Just a little lighter. I use the plaquette mode often when doing multipitch routes and normal belaying and rappelling is super smooth and predictable, with good moderation, especially for skinny ropes. I use the Petzl 9.4 rope for both trad and sport climbing and these work great together.
Black Diamond ATC Guide
By: Shaun
July 9, 2011
The Black Diamond ATC Guide works well for single pitch & top ropes. But where it shines is multi pitch belaying followers & the ability to belay two separate lines.
Change me.
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Best multi pitch belay ever
Once you belay someone from above using the auto-locking, masterpoint technique this bad boy allows for, you'll never use another belay device. That more...
Best Belay Device.
Black Diamond took a great belay device and made it BAD ASS!!!! I think this is the best Belay Device going....Light, and versatile... This thing will more...
- Material:
- anodized aluminum
- Auto Locking:
- yes
- Rope Diameter:
- 11 mm
- Weight:
- 88 g
- Recommended Use:
- belaying, rappelling
- Manufacturer Warranty:
- 1 year
Comment on Jonathan Buehler's review >